Pinball Makers (Staging) - User contributions [en]

Main Page

2026-03-29T21:37:27Z

Jwilson:

Main Page

2026-03-29T21:34:16Z

Jwilson:

Main Page

2026-03-29T21:32:37Z

Jwilson:

<center>
[[Image:header.png]]

<h2>'''Build your own Pinball Machine'''</h2>

Thanks to advances in home-based computer-aided design, CNC routers, laser cutters and 3D printers, it's easier than ever for the home hobbyist to work in a garage workshop, from just an idea to a fully finished, professional quality pinball machine.

Click on any of the topics below to go to that specific section.<h2>'''[[Basics|The Basics]]'''</h2>
Click above to get a rundown of the basic components that go into a pinball machine and how they are connected.
----
<h2>'''[[CobraPin|CobraPin Controller]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[CobraPin#Overview|Overview]] | [[CobraPin#Wiring|Wiring]] | [[CobraPin#Troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[OPP|Open Pinball Project]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[OPP#Hardware|Hardware]] | [[OPP#Getting_Blank_Boards|Getting Boards]] | [[OPP#Assembly|Assembly]] | [[OPP#Firmware|Programming]]</h3>
<h3>[[OPP#Wiring_Examples|Wiring]] | [[OPP#Troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[P3-ROC|P3-ROC Custom Pinball Controller]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[P-ROC_Main_Page|P-ROC (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller)]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[P-ROC_functionality|How It Works]] | [[Driver_Board_functionality|How the Driver Boards Work]]</h3>
<h3> [[P-ROC_hardware_installation| Installation]] | [[Controlling_Coils|Controlling Coils]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Fast|FAST Pinball Hardware]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Design]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Design#Pinball_Basics|Basics]] | [[Design#Design_Software|Software]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Construction]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Construction#Tools|Tools]] | [[Construction#Materials|Materials]] | [[Construction#Whitewood|Whitewood]] | [[Construction#Cabinet|Cabinet]] | [[Construction#Electronics|Electronics]]</h3>
<h3>[[Construction#Wiring|Wiring]] | [[Construction#Displays|Displays]] | [[Construction#Lighting|Lighting]] | [[Construction#Custom_Parts|Custom Parts]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Artwork]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Artwork#Style|Style]] | [[Artwork#Design|Design]] | [[Artwork#Printing|Printing]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Programming]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[SkeletonGame]] || [https://missionpinball.org/latest|Mission Pinball Framework]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Custom Games]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Vendor List]]''' | '''[[Files Section]]'''</h2></center>
__NOTOC__

Main Page

2026-03-29T21:32:07Z

Jwilson:

<center>
[[Image:header.png]]

<h2>'''Build your own Pinball Machine'''</h2>

Thanks to advances in home-based computer-aided design, CNC routers, laser cutters and 3D printers, it's easier than ever for the home hobbyist to work in a garage workshop, from just an idea to a fully finished, professional quality pinball machine.

Click on any of the topics below to go to that specific section.<h2>'''[[Basics|The Basics]]'''</h2>
Click above to get a rundown of the basic components that go into a pinball machine and how they are connected.
----
<h2>'''[[CobraPin|CobraPin Controller]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[CobraPin#Overview|Overview]] | [[CobraPin#Wiring|Wiring]] | [[CobraPin#Troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[OPP|Open Pinball Project]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[OPP#Hardware|Hardware]] | [[OPP#Getting_Blank_Boards|Getting Boards]] | [[OPP#Assembly|Assembly]] | [[OPP#Firmware|Programming]]</h3>
<h3>[[OPP#Wiring_Examples|Wiring]] | [[OPP#Troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[P3-ROC|P3-ROC Custom Pinball Controller]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[P-ROC_Main_Page|P-ROC (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller)]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[P-ROC_functionality|How It Works]] | [[Driver_Board_functionality|How the Driver Boards Work]]</h3>
<h3> [[P-ROC_hardware_installation| Installation]] | [[Controlling_Coils|Controlling Coils]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Fast|FAST Pinball Hardware]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Design]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Design#Pinball_Basics|Basics]] | [[Design#Design_Software|Software]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Construction]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Construction#Tools|Tools]] | [[Construction#Materials|Materials]] | [[Construction#Whitewood|Whitewood]] | [[Construction#Cabinet|Cabinet]] | [[Construction#Electronics|Electronics]]</h3>
<h3>[[Construction#Wiring|Wiring]] | [[Construction#Displays|Displays]] | [[Construction#Lighting|Lighting]] | [[Construction#Custom_Parts|Custom Parts]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Artwork]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Artwork#Style|Style]] | [[Artwork#Design|Design]] | [[Artwork#Printing|Printing]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Programming]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[SkeletonGame]] || [[https://missionpinball.org/latest/|Mission Pinball Framework]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Custom Games]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Vendor List]]''' | '''[[Files Section]]'''</h2></center>
__NOTOC__

Main Page

2026-03-29T21:21:10Z

Jwilson:

Main Page

2026-03-29T20:52:26Z

Jwilson:

Main Page

2023-03-02T14:24:14Z

Jwilson:

<center>
[[Image:header.png]]

<h2>'''Build your own Pinball Machine'''</h2>

Thanks to advances in home-based computer-aided design, CNC routers, laser cutters and 3D printers, it's easier than ever for the home hobbyist to work in a garage workshop, from just an idea to a fully finished, professional quality pinball machine.

This wiki is not meant to be a static list of resources - anyone is welcome to edit or add information or articles on any subject relating to home brew pinball. You are only asked to sign up for an account to edit.

Click on any of the topics below to go to that specific section.

----
<h2>'''[[Basics|The Basics]]'''</h2>
Click above to get a rundown of the basic components that go into a pinball machine and how they are connected.
----
<h2>'''[[CobraPin|CobraPin Controller]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[CobraPin#Overview|Overview]] | [[CobraPin#Wiring|Wiring]] | [[CobraPin#Troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[OPP|Open Pinball Project]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[OPP#Hardware|Hardware]] | [[OPP#Getting_Blank_Boards|Getting Boards]] | [[OPP#Assembly|Assembly]] | [[OPP#Firmware|Programming]]</h3>
<h3>[[OPP#Wiring_Examples|Wiring]] | [[OPP#Troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[P3-ROC|P3-ROC Custom Pinball Controller]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[P-ROC_Main_Page|P-ROC (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller)]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[P-ROC_functionality|How It Works]] | [[Driver_Board_functionality|How the Driver Boards Work]]</h3>
<h3> [[P-ROC_hardware_installation| Installation]] | [[Controlling_Coils|Controlling Coils]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Fast|FAST Pinball Hardware]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Design]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Design#Pinball_Basics|Basics]] | [[Design#Design_Software|Software]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Construction]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Construction#Tools|Tools]] | [[Construction#Materials|Materials]] | [[Construction#Whitewood|Whitewood]] | [[Construction#Cabinet|Cabinet]] | [[Construction#Electronics|Electronics]]</h3>
<h3>[[Construction#Wiring|Wiring]] | [[Construction#Displays|Displays]] | [[Construction#Lighting|Lighting]] | [[Construction#Custom_Parts|Custom Parts]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Artwork]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Artwork#Style|Style]] | [[Artwork#Design|Design]] | [[Artwork#Printing|Printing]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Programming]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[SkeletonGame]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Custom Games]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Vendor List]]''' | '''[[Files Section]]'''</h2>

Like the Logo? [http://skreened.com/pinballmakers/ Buy a T-Shirt!]
</center>
__NOTOC__

OPP

2022-08-16T22:47:44Z

Jwilson: /* Firmware */

== Open Pinball Project ==

The [https://openpinballproject.wordpress.com/ Open Pinball Project (OPP)] was started in 2012 as a resource for pinball makers to have an inexpensive, fully open sourced project for controlling custom pinball machines. It is currently on a second generation design and has had a successful Kickstarter run of boards and components currently in the hands of makers all over the world.

'''In 1Q 2020, it was decided to switch to a new layout, due to the unavailability of processor boards.

'''This page should be considered as a Work In Progress. '''

Archives on the previous layout can be found on [[OPP-Cypress|Archives of OPP]]'''.
More details on this change are available in the [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/mpf-users/QVQsO6JjID8 MPF Users forum].

== Hardware ==

The '''OPP''' hardware is made up of three main components:

* The '''Processor''' board is a [https://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/products/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32-32-bit-arm-cortex-mcus/stm32-mainstream-mcus/stm32f1-series/stm32f103/stm32f103c8.html STM32F103C8 ] prototyping board that can be purchased from '''TODO'''.
* The '''Wing''' boards allow the control of solenoids, lamps, LEDs or input from switches.
* The '''Power Filter Board''' to allow the use of inexpensive switching power supplies.

The following is an example of some fully assembled and wired OPP ''Processors'' with ''Wing'' boards.

''Pictures to be added''

=== Processor Boards ===

The ''Processor'' board can have up to four ''Wing'' boards controlling solenoids, incandescent lamps, or allowing input for switches. The ''Wing'' boards themselves can be combined in any configuration, so a single ''Processor'' board can support up to 16 solenoids (with 16 direct switch inputs), 32 switch inputs or 32 lamps. Each ''Wing'' board uses eight pins.

All other pins are unused.

''Pictures to be added''

The ''Processor'' itself does not run game rules or other game logic - a ''Controller'' like [https://missionpinball.org/ Mission Pinball] running on a separate PC is still required to handle scoring and other game logic and to fire coils and light lamps as needed. The ''Processor'' simply provides the physical connection to playfield devices. However, coils can automatically be fired by the activation of their related direct switch input to allow a "white wood" mode that does not require a controller.

=== Solenoid Wing ===

The ''Solenoid'' wing uses MOSFETs to control up to four individual coils via a ''ground sink'' method, where the coils themselves are wired to the positive side of the high voltage power supply and the MOSFET provides a ground path when activated, firing the coil.

Standard coil voltages are '''24V''' to '''48V''' and upwards of '''10A''' of current.

[[Image:solenoid-wing.png]]

There are two connectors on the ''Solenoid'' wing - the larger 6-pin has four pins for the coil connections and two for ground. The 4-pin connector is for ''direct control'' switch inputs to control special solenoids.

==== Special Solenoids ====

For devices like flippers, slingshots or pop bumpers that require fast response to switch hits in order to fire coils, the ''Solenoid'' wing has four '''Direct Inputs''' that are used to directly activate the associated coil without the computer needing to detect a switch closure and send a solenoid activation command. These are known as ''Autofire'' coils. This direct activation can also be cancelled if needed by the Controller where theses switches can be considered as normal switches.

As of this writing, '''OPP''' only supports ''Autofire'' coils using the direct inputs or switch inputs on the '''same controller as the solenoid itself'''. This means you can't have an ''Autofire'' switch on another controller.

Another advantage to using the direct switches is that it allows the game to be tested without a host controller, since pop bumpers, slingshots and flippers will work at power-on.

The 4-pin connector for the direct switches can cause some packaging issues with the solenoid connector, so it is recommended to leave it out when building the boards if there is no need for ''Autofire'' coils.

=== Incandescent Wing ===

The ''Incandescent'' wing uses MOSFETs to control up to eight direct wired incandescent lamps via the same ''ground sink'' method as the coils.

Lamps require a high current '''6.3V''' power supply as each bulb needs about '''.25A''' at full brightness.

[[Image:incandescent-wing.png]]

''Direct wired'' means that each lamp is wired up and controlled individually via the 8-pin connector, rather than in the ''Matrix'' style that most commercial pinball machines used until recently.

The other 2-pin connector is for the '''Ground''' connection.

Note: This picture shows the MOSFETs reversed from the silkscreen which is required if using 2N7000TA MOSFETs which should be avoided. If using the BS-170 MOSFETs, the silkscreen matches the MOSFET orientation. Careful!

=== Switch Wing ===

Switches are wired directly to the ''Processor'' board via an 8-pin 2.54mm locking header.

''Picture to be added''

Unlike the ''Solenoid'' and ''Incandescent'' wings, the ''Switch'' wing is set up as ''High-side'', where the switch pins are at '''5V''' and playfield and cabinet switches are tied to '''Ground''', so that when a switch is activated, the pins are grounded and the switch is considered 'closed'. It is set up this way since the ''Processor'' pins have a '''Pull-Up''' resistor on them that is tied to 5V.

The switches provide a ground path for the normally-high inputs.

=== Power Filter Board ===

[[image:Poppwrfilt1.jpg|Power Filter Board]]

When firing solenoids, there is a large instantaneous draw of current from the power supply. A standard switching power supply may detect this as a short, and turn off. To prevent this from occurring, a large amount of bulk capacitance can be added, so the instantaneous current can be drawn from the bulk capacitors. Also, when initially charging the bulk capacitors, a large amount of current is drawn. A high power negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor is used to reduce the initial current draw to charge the capacitors. This is the basis of the design for the ''Power Filter Board''.

[[Image:power-filter-pinout.png]]

The board contains the following additional features:

* An LED to indicate when the capacitors are charged
* Ability to turn on/off the power by grounding a pin
* Output pin that can be used as an input to a processor for detecting if high voltage is enabled
* Board can be configured for one or two different high voltages through board population

The power filter board can be configured to provide bulk capacitance for one or two power supplies. If two power supplies are needed, a second P-Channel MOSFET and inrush current limiter (NTC) must be bought.

If the ability to enable/disable the high power voltage isn't needed, a jumper can be added instead of the P-channel MOSFETs.

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering and assembling the '''OPP''' boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire the '''OPP''' boards, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.
* '''Pin Extractor:''' [http://www.digikey.com/short/3hvfr2 Digikey] has the Molex-branded tool for extracting the Mini-Fit Jr. style of square connectors used on the ''Solenoid'' wings.

==== Determine Board Layout ====

Prior to purchasing the '''OPP''' boards and components, you need to know how many '''solenoids, lamps''' and '''switches''' you need to support, where to put them, and how they will be mounted.

For example, a custom game might require 31 inputs, 10 solenoids (with 10 direct inputs), and 43 incandescent bulbs. This could be accomplished with four ''Processor'' boards and four ''Interface'' wings, three ''Solenoid'' wings, six ''Incandescent'' wings and five ''Switch'' wings. Technically this is more boards and wings than are strictly required, as the ''Processor'' boards could handle a denser wing configuration, but this layout cuts down on the total wiring required by placing ''Processors'' close to the devices they are controlling, saving significant time and materials.

Alternatively, consider a ''Williams Jokerz'' machine. It has 19 solenoids (including direct inputs), 39 switches and 63 incandescent bulbs (which includes 9 flashers). A possible layout for that is five ''Processor'' boards with five ''Interface'' wings, four ''Solenoid'' wings, eight ''Incandescent'' wings and five ''Switch'' wings.

You can place ''Processors'' near what is being controlled, or put them all together in the head of the machine like a traditional commercial pinball - it is entirely up to the maker as to where to place ''Processors'', but placement ''will'' determine the final number of ''Processors'' and wings required.

Once the total number of ''Processor'' and ''Wing'' boards has been determined, and their approximate location in the final machine, parts can be ordered.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

When running solenoids and lamps, you'll need three voltages: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''6.3V 10A''' for lamps and '''24V to 48V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for lamps. A high power DC-DC step down ''Buck Converter'' can be used to convert '''12V''' to '''6.3V''' for incandescents.

You can use a separate '''24V to 48V 10A''' switcher for solenoids if you also use the '''Power Filter Board'''.

== Getting Blank Boards ==

The '''OPP''' site itself does not sell blank boards and there currently is no one selling fully populated and tested boards. However, given the open source nature of the project, there are multiple ways to get the blanks.

The easiest is to order boards from [http://mezelmods.com/collections/open-pinball-project-parts MezelMods] as they offer blanks for a very reasonable $1US per board.

The next option is to create '''Gerber''' files from the [http://kicad-pcb.org/download/KiCad KiCad] files located in the OPP [https://svn.code.sf.net/p/open-pinball-project/code/trunk SVN] repository. For this you'll need to download '''KiCad''', which is a printed circuit board design tool that was used to create the '''OPP''' boards. Once you have the ''Gerber'' files, they can be uploaded to a number of low-cost PCB manufacturers such as:

* [https://www.oshstencils.com/ OSH Stencils]
* [https://oshpark.com/ OSH Park]
* [https://www.seeedstudio.com/fusion_pcb.html SeeedStudio]
* [https://www.itead.cc/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html iTEAD]

Each PCB maker has plusses and minuses that are too involved to go into in this wiki, but '''SeeedStudio''' has good prices and fast shipping.

Getting PCBs made can be a fairly advanced process, so it is recommended to simply purchase the already-made boards via [http://mezelmods.com/collections/open-pinball-project-parts MezelMods]. They also offer additional parts that are less expensive than purchasing through Digikey or Mouser such as the '''FC-8P''' connectors and the '''1x40 2.54 mm''' headers.

== Getting Components ==

Once you have the bare boards, they will need to be fully populated with components, which are not included - they will need to be sourced separately. The following is a '''Bill of Materials''' (BoM) for each ''Processor'' and ''Wing'' board.

==== Processor Board ====

OPP has moved away from using PSOC4200 boards since they are no longer available. The firmware has been ported to use STM32F103C8T6 blue pill boards that are even cheaper. These boards can easily be purchased from either Ebay or Aliexpress. A programmer (ST Link-V2) is needed to program the firmware. Luckily, these are typically sold from the same vendors. In either Ebay or Aliexpress search for STM32F103C8T6. If using Aliexpress insure that the seller has sold at least a couple of hundred boards. Processor boards and the programmer are about $1.50 or $2.00 each plus shipping if willing to wait for shipping from China.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
! Mezel Price
|-
| 1
| Ebay or Aliexpress
| STM32F103C8T6 blue pill
| $2.00/ea
| N/A
|}

'''Note:''' The STM32F103C8T6 processor boards come with the headers so there is no need to purchase them anymore.

==== Solenoid Wing ====

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
|-
| 4
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=IRL540NPBF 942-IRL540NPBF]
| N-Channel MOSFET 100V 36A
| $0.71/ea
|-
| 4
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=CFR-12JR-5210K 603-CFR-12JR-5210K]
| 10K Ohm Resistor (1/6W 5%)
| $0.02/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=35317-0620 538-35317-0620]
| Molex 6-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Header
| $0.28/ea
|-
| 6
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=39-00-0039 538-39-00-0039]
| Molex Crimp-Style 4.2 mm 24-18AWG Female Pins
| $0.19/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=39-01-2065 538-39-01-2065]
| Molex 6-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Housing
| $0.52/ea
|-
|colspan=4|Parts Needed ONLY If Adding Direct Switches
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=640454-4 640454-4]
| 4-pin Polarized 2.54 mm Header
| $0.12/ea
|-
| 6
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=08-50-0136 538-08-50-0136]
| Molex Crimp-Style 2.54 mm KK Pins
| $0.13/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=22-01-2047 538-22-01-2047]
| Molex 4-Pin 2.54 mm Housing
| $0.17/ea
|}

'''Note:''' The total number of crimp-style pins included in the BoM is higher than actually needed to account for re-crimping.

'''Note 2:''' Since the price of the higher current (IRL540) MOSFETs have dropped, it now makes sense just to use these MOSFETs for all configurations.

==== Incandescent Wing ====

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
|-
| 8
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/BS170 512-BS170]
| N-Channel MOSFET 60V 500mA
| $0.39/ea
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/35317-0220/ 538-35317-0220]
| Molex 2-pin 4.2 mm Header
| $0.12/ea
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-01-2025/ 538-39-01-2025]
| Molex 2-pin 4.2 mm Housing
| $0.33/ea
|-
| 3
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-00-0039 538-39-00-0039]
| Molex Crimp-Style 4.2 mm 24-18AWG Female Pins
| $0.19/ea
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/640454-8/ 571-6404548]
| 8-pin 2.54 mm Polarized Header
| $0.45/ea
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-2087/ 538-22-01-2087]
| Molex 8-pin 2.54 mm Housing
| $0.32/ea
|-
| 10
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0136/ 538-08-50-0136]
| Molex Crimp-Style 2.54 mm KK Pins
| $0.13/ea
|-
|colspan=4|Lower Current alternative MOSFET that should be avoided
|-
| 8
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/2N7000TA/ 512-2N7000TA]
| MOSFET 60V N-Channel
| $0.33/ea
|}

==== Switch Wing ====

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/640454-8/ 571-6404548]
| 8-pin 2.54 mm Polarized Header
| $0.45/ea
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-2087/ 538-22-01-2087]
| Molex 8-pin 2.54 mm Housing
| $0.32/ea
|-
| 10
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0136/ 538-08-50-0136]
| Molex Crimp-Style 2.54 mm KK Pins
| $0.13/ea
|}

'''Note:''' The ''Switch'' wing is just the 8-pin headers soldered directly to the ''Processor'' board with the upright lock facing out from the board.

==== Interface Wing ====

Interface wing boards are no longer needed if using the newer STM32F103 processor boards. Each STM32F103 is connected to the host computer with a USB cable. This eliminates the need for the interface board.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
! Mezel Price
|-
| 2
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-FCI/68602-108HLF/ 649-68602-108HLF]
| 2 x 4 position 2.54 mm Header
| $0.45/ea
| [http://mezelmods.com/collections/under20/products/4-pin-2-54mm-dual-in-line-row-male-header-connector $0.20/ea]
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/640454-4/ 640454-4]
| Molex 4-Pin 2.54 mm Polarized Header
| $0.12/ea
| N/A
|-
| 2
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-2047/ 538-22-01-2047]
| Molex 4-Pin 2.54 mm Housing
| $0.17/ea
| N/A
|-
| 10
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0136/ 538-08-50-0136]
| Molex Crimp-Style 2.54 mm KK Pins
| $0.13/ea
| N/A
|-
| 2
| eBay (search "FC-8P")
| FC-8P IDC Socket 2.54 mm
| ~ $0.10/ea
| [http://mezelmods.com/collections/under20/products/fc-8p-2-54mm-idc-connector-8-pin-cable-socket $0.20/ea]
|-
| ~10ft
| eBay (search "8 pin IDC cable")
| 8-pin IDC Flat cable
| ~$1/ft
| N/A
|}

'''Note:''' Neither Mouser nor Digikey have FC-8P connectors or flat cable in stock, so eBay is the best source for these parts. Mezel Mods sells FC-8P connectors and 2x4 Pin headers for a lower price.

==== Power Filter Board ====

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Qty / 1 Switcher
! Qty / 2 Switcher
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
|-
| 1
| 1
| [https://mezelmods.com/collections/open-pinball-project-parts/products/open-pinball-project-power-supply-filter-board PCB]
| PCB from Mezel Mods
| $5.00/ea
|-
| 3
| 3
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/SLPX822M063H5P3/ 598-SLPX822M063H5P3]
| Bulk Capacitor, 8.2mF, 63V
| $4.28/ea
|-
| 1
| 2
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ametherm/SG26/ 995-SG26]
| Inrush current limiter (NTC Thermistor)
| $2.28/ea
|-
| 2
| 3
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/35317-0620/ 538-35317-0620]
| Molex 6-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Header
| $0.28/ea
|-
| 1
| 2
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/STF10P6F6/ 511-STF10P6F6]
| P - Channel MOSFET
| $0.85/ea
|-
| 3
| 6
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/OK1045E-R52/ 588-OK1045E-R52]
| 100K Ohm Resistor
| $0.02/ea
|-
| 1
| 2
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SLX-LX5093ID/ 696-SLX-LX5093ID]
| High voltage 5mm (T-1 3/4) indicator LED
| $0.06/ea
|-
| 12
| 18
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-00-0039/ 538-39-00-0039]
| Molex Crimp-Style 4.2 mm 24-18AWG Female Pins
| $0.19/ea
|-
| 2
| 3
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-01-2065/ 538-39-01-2065]
| Molex 6-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Housing
| $0.52/ea
|-
| 1
| 1
|[http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/640456-6/ 571-6404566]
| FRICTION LCK 6P Header
| $0.38/ea
|}

The power filter board can be configured to provide bulk capacitance for one or two power supplies. If two power supplies are needed, a second P-Channel MOSFET and inrush current limiter must be bought.

If the ability to enable/disable the high power voltage isn't needed, a jumper can be added instead of the P-channel MOSFETs.

'''Note:''' Another through-hole resistor is needed if planning to allow a processor to read if the voltage is enabled or not. A simple voltage divider is used to convert the high voltage to the processor input voltage. The value of that resistor is different depending on the input voltage from your power supply and the input voltage of the processor. The table lists the 1% and 5% standard value resistor. (Choose the cheapest):

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Input Voltage
! Processor Voltage
! Resistor Ohm
! 1% Resistor
! 5% Resistor
|-
| 24V
| 5V
| 380K
| 383K
| 390K
|-
| 48V
| 5V
| 860K
| 866K
| 910K
|-
| 70V
| 5V
| 1.3M
| 1.3M
| 1.3M
|-
| 24V
| 3.3V
| 628K
| 634K
| 680K
|-
| 48V
| 3.3V
| 1.35M
| 1.37M
| 1.5M
|-
| 70V
| 3.3V
| 2.02M
| 2.05M
| 2.2M
|-
|}

The equation to calculate the resistor value is:

<code>(Power Supply Voltage * 100K) / Processor Voltage - 100K = Resistor</code>

==== Solenoid Plank ====
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
|-
| 8
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=IRL540NPBF 942-IRL540NPBF]
| N-Channel MOSFET 100V 36A
| $0.71/ea
|-
| 8
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=CFR-12JR-5210K 603-CFR-12JR-5210K]
| 10K Ohm Resistor (1/6W 5%)
| $0.02/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=35317-1220 538-35317-1220]
| Molex 12-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Header
| $0.66/ea
|-
| 12
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=39-00-0039 538-39-00-0039]
| Molex Crimp-Style 4.2 mm 24-18AWG Female Pins
| $0.19/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=39-01-2125 538-39-01-2125]
| Molex 12-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Housing
| $0.74/ea
|-
|colspan=4|Parts Needed ONLY If Adding Direct Switches
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=640454-8 571-6404548]
| 8-pin 2.54 mm Polarized Header
| $0.45/ea
|-
| 12
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=08-50-0136 538-08-50-0136]
| Molex Crimp-Style 2.54 mm KK Pins
| $0.13/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=22-01-2087 538-22-01-2087]
| Molex 8-pin 2.54 mm Housing
| $0.32/ea
|}

'''Note:''' The total number of crimp-style pins included in the BoM is higher than actually needed to account for re-crimping. The interface section can only be populated if the plank board is installed as wing 0, wing 1 and using PSOC4200 processor boards.

'''Note 2:''' Since the price of the higher current (IRL540) MOSFETs have dropped, it now makes sense just to use these MOSFETs for all configurations.

== Assembly ==

Once all the boards and the components are available, you can begin assembly.
=== Common ===

==== Solenoid Wing Assembly ====

The parts for the ''Solenoid'' wing are the four MOSFETs, four 10K Resistors, a 2x3 header and a 4-pin locking header. If you are not using the ''direct switch'' capabilities of the ''Solenoid'' wing, it is recommended to leave the 4-pin out of the build as it causes some packaging issues when placing wings next to each other, as the 2x3 header sticks off the end of the board slightly and makes contact with the 4-pin header on the adjacent wing.

Start with the smallest components and work upwards - resistors, MOSFETs then headers. The 2x3 header should be installed with the locking tab facing "up" as in the above diagram.

==== Incandescent Wing Assembly ====

The through-hole ''Incandescent'' wing parts are eight 2N7000 MOSFETs, an 1x8 locking header for lamp connections and a 2-pin header for the 12V ground connection. No resistors are required, so all resistor spots are left empty.

The tab for the 2-pin header should face inwards towards the center of the board.

==== Switch Wing Assembly ====

There is no physical wing board required for the ''Switch'' wing - it consists entirely of a single 8-pin 2.54mm locking header connected directly to the ''Processor'' board.

==== Power Filter Board ====

Install jumpers, resistors, LEDs, MOSFETs and connectors first, then thermistors and finally the three capacitors with the negative leg facing towards the bottom of the board. LEDs are installed with the flat part facing down.

If not using the power control capability of the board, the MOSFETs and their associated resistors are not needed.

[[Image:Power-filter-assembly.png]]

==== Power Filter Board, One Voltage Supply, No Controls ====

The power filter board tries to be all things to all people. As such, it can be confusing to know how to populate the board. This section describes how to populate a power filter board for a single power supply, no processor control or feedback to detect if power supply is on, and no safety LED for indicating capacitors are charged.

Purchase the first four items (first column quantities) from this table [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/OPP#Power_Filter_Board_2 Filter Board Parts]. Install the three bulk capacitors, one NTC thermistor (install in left position), and two 6-pin Molex connectors (install in top and left positions). Using the clipped off leads from the NTC thermistor, add the red and blue jumpers as seen in the image above. Lastly, add the two light green jumpers that are marked by Q1 and Q2 on the silkscreen. (Only one is shown in the above image, while the second is shown as a MOSFET. In both positions, the jumper needs to go between the middle and right holes as shown in the image)

==== Solenoid Plank Assembly ====

The parts for the ''Solenoid'' plank are the eight MOSFETs, eight 10K Resistors, a 2x6 header and a 8-pin locking header.

When assembling, start with the shortest components and work towards tallest - resistors and jumpers, headers, and lastly, MOSFETs. The 2x6 header should be installed with the locking tab facing "down" as in the silkscreen.

[[Image:solenoid-assembly.jpg]]

=== STM32F103 ===

[[File:STM32ChangesToSupportAllWings.png]]

[[File:STM32NeoInpPlank.png]]

[[File:STM32NeoSolInpIncand.png]]

=== PSOC4200 ===

==== Processor Board Assembly ====

As delivered, the Cypress PSoC 4200 board needs to have two traces on the USB to Serial portion of the board cut - the TX and RX lines. Use an X-Acto knife to cut the thin traces on both sides of the board and use a Multimeter to test between the two through holes to confirm there is no connectivity. This is important to prevent crosstalk on the serial lines.

After the lines are cut, the headers (or lock connectors if being used for switches) can be soldered in, along with the 2x4 header between the USB-to-Serial interface and the main board.

[[Image:processor-assembly.png]]

==== Interface Wing Assembly ====

The main parts of the ''Interface'' wing are the two 2x4 headers for the serial connection and the 4-pin locking header that is used on the first ''Processor'' board to bring the Serial output from the USB-to-Serial card into the ''Interface'' wing. The 4-pin header is only required for the first ''Processor'' board in the chain, and can be left out when building the wing for subsequent boards.

[[Image:interface-assembly.png]]

It is best to start with the smallest components and work up - solder the two termination jumpers (marked as '''R2''' and '''R3''') and the serial connector enable jumper as depicted in the diagram, then the 2x4 headers, and finally the 4-pin header if needed.

Once assembled, the ''Interface'' board can be soldered to the ''Processor'' board on the last four pins marked '''4.0''' through '''4.3''' as per the diagram.

The final step is to connect VDD and GND to the ''Interface'' wing by soldering wire from the ''Processor'' board to the ''Interface'' wing as per the diagram - GND to '''Pin 1''' and 5V to '''Pin 2'''. This is required to power all the downstream ''Processor'' boards as none of them will be plugged into the USB connector which normally provides power. The 8-pin ribbon cable used for serial communications also provides 5V and ground connections.

==== Attaching solenoid wing to PSOC4200 ====

[[Image:solenoid-assembly.png]]

After assembly, it can be soldered in the appropriate spot on the ''Processor'' board. It is recommended to place ''Solenoid'' boards in the '''Wing 0''' and '''Wing 1''' positions as this allows a short jumper to connect the logic (5V) ground wiring for the pulldown, as well as slightly better fitment due to the chip packaging on the ''Processor'' boards. However, it is not a requirement - ''Solenoid'' wings can be placed in any position, as long as the pulldown ground is properly wired.

After soldering the ''Solenoid'' wing to the ''Processor'' board, use a solid wire jumper to tie it and the ''Interface'' board together on the very end through holes. This is a purely physical connection that helps add stability to the board - there is no electrical connection on those holes. A good source for a jumper wire are the leftover legs from the resistors after they've been soldered in and cut to length.

==== Attaching incandescent wing to PSOC4200 ====

[[Image:incandescent-assembly.png]]

'''NOTE:''' As the board was originally designed for BS170s, the screened artwork reflects the pinout for that part, but the pinout is reversed for the 2N7000, so it is critically important to install the MOSFETs in the '''REVERSED''' orientation from the artwork.

Once assembly is complete and the wing is installed on the ''Processor'', a solid wire jumper should be installed on the end holes to provide stability. As with all wing boards other than the ''Interface'' board, the ''Incandescent'' wing can be installed in any of the four positions.

==== Attaching switch wing to PSOC4200 ====

[[Image:switch-assembly.png]]

==== Attaching solenoid plank to PSOC4200 ====

After assembly, it can be soldered in the appropriate spot on the ''Processor'' board. Be careful to line up the pins. If soldering as '''Interface''' , '''Wing 0''' and '''Wing 1''' positions, the bottom pin of the plank lines up with pin4.0 on the processor, and the top pin of the plank lines up with pin4.VDD. If soldering as '''Wing 2''' and '''Wing 3''' positions, the third pin from the bottom lines up with GND on the processor, and the top pin of the plank lines up with pin3.3SWDCLK. The bottom pin on the plank in this position should not be attached to VDD on USB to serial interface portion of the processor card. Make sure to add the extra jumper to attach the logic ground to the pulldown resistors when in '''Wing 2''' and '''Wing 3''' positions.

== Firmware ==

The '''OPP''' boards aren't just about the physical hardware, there's also an operating system - to handle the serial communication with the host, moving messages along the serial chain, activating coils and lamp, and maintaining state for all the above. This software is known as '''Firmware''' and it runs on each ''Processor'' board. This is what talks to the host computer over USB.

The firmware is available for download via the [https://openpinballproject.wordpress.com/repository/ OPP SVN] repo. It must be copied to each ''Processor'' individually in order for them to work. If using a PSoC4200 a group of processors can be upgraded via the Serial Chain. The stm32f103c8t6 must currently be upgraded using the '''ST-LINK V2 JTAG debugger'''.

=== stm32f103c8t6 ===

The firmware must be copied onto the stm32f103 processor using a ST-LINK V2 JTAG debugger. (Don't worry, these only cost $1.50 or so) The JTAG debugger is used for programming if using Linux or Windows.

===== Linux / MacOS Firmware Programming =====

* Install libusb and git: <code>sudo apt-get install libusb-1.0-0-dev git</code>
* Move to home: <code>cd ~</code>
* Grab stlink code: <code>git clone https://github.com/texane/stlink</code>
* Move into stlink folder: <code>cd stlink</code>
* Build stlink: <code>make</code>
* Copy binary to /usr/bin: <code>sudo cp build/Release/bin/st-flash /usr/bin</code>

For MacOS, you can get the libraries from ''Homebrew'':

* libusb: https://formulae.brew.sh/formula/libusb
* stlink: https://formulae.brew.sh/formula/stlink

===== Attaching the debugger and programming firmware =====

* Connect the four pins at the edge of the stm32f103c8t6 to 3.3V, SWD, SWCLK and GND to the pins on the ST-LINK V2
* Move the '''Boot0''' jumper from position '''0''' to '''1'''
* Plug the ST-LINK V2 into a USB port
* Program firmware (firmware is found at ''repos/Stm32Workbench/Gen3Images''): <code>sudo st-flash –format ihex write OppStm32.2.0.0.6.hex</code>
* After programming is completed (printing out Jolly Good!), unplug the ST-LINK V2 from the USB port
* Move the Boot0 jumper from position 1 to 0

===== Verify firmware version =====

* Plug the stm32f103c8t6 into a USB port
* Run Gen2Test.py (Gen2Test is found at repos/Python/Gen2Test): <code>sudo python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/ttyACM0</code>

Note: Gen2Test.py may need to be run a few times to “sync” the serial port because plugging in the USB port may send garbage on the serial port.

===== Windows Firmware Programming =====

Install required software:

* Download STSW-LINK004 from http://www.st.com: https://www.st.com/en/development-tools/stsw-link004.html
* Run setup.exe found in the zip file. This will install the STM32 ST-Link Utility

Attaching the debugger and programming firmware:

* Connect the four pins at the edge of the stm32f103c8t6 to 3.3V, SWD, SWCLK and GND to the pins on the ST-LINK V2
* Move the Boot0 jumper from position 0 to 1
* Plug the ST-LINK V2 into a USB port
* Run STM32 ST-Link Utility
** File->Open File and browse and select firmware file (firmware is found at repos/Stm32Workbench/Gen3Images)
** Target->Program and Verify
* After programming is completed, unplug the ST-LINK V2 from the USB port
* Move the Boot0 jumper from position 1 to 0

Verify firmware version:

* Plug the stm32f103c8t6 into a USB port
* Run Gen2Test.py (Gen2Test is found at repos/Python/Gen2Test): c:\Python27\python.exe Gen2Test.py -port=COM3

Note: Gen2Test.py may need to be run a few times to “sync” the serial port because plugging in the USB port may send garbage on the serial port.

=== PSoC 4200 ===

==== RX/TX Jumpers ====

As part of the initial board setup, the ''RX/TX'' traces were cut on the ''Processor'' board. In order to copy the firmware to the board, jumpers will need to be put in place to connect the two serial pins on the USB-to-Serial interface to the board itself.

[[Image:usb-jumpers.png]]

==== Determine your USB Device ====

In order to talk to the ''Processor'' via the host computer's USB port, a '''device driver''' will likely need to be installed. Cypress offers [http://www.cypress.com/documentation/software-and-drivers/usb-serial-software-development-kit device drivers] for Windows, Linux and Mac.

Install the appropriate driver for your host computer following the instructions from the Cypress site.

Once installed, plugging the ''Processor'' into a USB port on the host computer should result in a device being mounted on your system, with an associated serial device - a '''COM''' port on Windows or a <code>tty</code> or <code>cu</code> file in the <code>/dev</code> directory for Linux and Mac.

Some typical Serial devices are listed below. Please note that this is not a definitive list as the operating systems will assign Serial ports dynamically, so for example on Windows it might be COM8 or COM10, or on OSX it might be /dev/cu.usbmodem1421, and so on.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! OS
! Device
|-
| Windows
| COM9
|-
| Linux
| /dev/ttys1
|-
| OSX
| /dev/cu.usbmodem1411
|-
| Raspbian (Raspberry Pi Linux)
| /dev/ttyACM0
|-
|}

To determine the port, check the syslog on Mac/Linux or the ''System Console'' on Windows.

Whatever the device name is, write it down as it will be needed for copying the firmware and all future communication with the ''Processor'' boards.

===== Raspberry Pi Serial =====

Specific to the Raspberry Pi setup, the default driver for the Cypress controller in the OS sees it as a thermometer, so the driver needs to be disabled. This is done by editing the <code>/etc/modprobe.d/raspi-blacklist.conf</code> file and inserting the following:

<code>blacklist cytherm</code>

If the file doesn't exist, create it.

After saving the file and exiting, do <code>chmod 600 /etc/modprobe.d/raspi-blacklist.conf</code> and then reboot the RPi. The processor should then appear as a USB device using the default serial driver.

==== cyflash ====

'''cyflash''' is a Python utility provided by Cypress to copy firmware to the board. It is included as part of the [https://openpinballproject.wordpress.com/repository/ OPP SVN] repo under the <code>Python/cyflash</code> directory.

The instructions for downloading the SVN repo are detailed on the main SVN page. Once downloaded to the local filesystem into a directory called <code>opp</code>, do a directory listing to confirm the cyflash files are in place.

[[Image:cyflash-directory.png]]

How the firmware is uploaded depends on which OS you use - Windows, Linux or Mac. Linux and Mac are a bit simpler as they already have the correct version of ''Python'' installed by default.

For Windows, download the [https://www.python.org/downloads/windows/ Latest Version] of Python 2.7 and follow the install instructions as listed. It should be in the <code>C:\Python27</code> directory (the default).

From the command line, change into the <code>opp/Python/cyflash/</code> directory. The ''cyflash'' utility can be invoked with the following parameters:

'''Linux/Mac'''
<code>python -m cyflash.__main__ --serial /dev/[serial-device] --serial_baudrate 115200 ../../Creator/Gen2Images/Gen2.rev0.2.0.0.cyacd</code>

'''Windows'''
<code>c:\Python27\Python.exe -m cyflash.__main__ --serial COM[serial-device] --serial_baudrate 115200 ..\..\Creator\Gen2Images\Gen2.rev0.2.0.0.cyacd</code>

Before running the command, you must put the ''Processor'' into '''bootloader''' mode. Plug the board in while holding down the small button at the end of the board, which will cause the blue LED to flash rapidly.

Running ''cyflash'' should begin to upload the firmware to the board.

<pre>
% python -m cyflash.__main__ --serial /dev/cu.usbmodem1411 --serial_baudrate 115200 ../../Creator/Gen2Images/Gen2.rev0.2.0.0.cyacd
CyFlash version: 1.07
Initialising bootloader.
Silicon ID 0x04c81193, revision 17.
Bootloader version: 1.20
Array 0: first row 32, last row 255.
Uploading data (128/128)
Device checksum verifies OK.
Rebooting device.
</pre>

When it is complete, the board should reboot and the LED stop flashing. The board is now ready for configuring the Wing layout.

For versions of firmware greater than 0.2.0.1 it is possible to upgrade without having to disconnect each processor board and program separately. This is covered in the next section.

==== Gen2Test ====

'''Gen2Test''' is the '''OPP''' utility used to check ''Processor'' status, as well as '''erase''', '''load''' and '''save''' the ''Wing'' configuration prior to using it with the host controller. It uses an additional ''Python'' script as a config file that you define. Even if you use a framework like ''MPF'' that automatically sets up the ''Processor'' configs for you on startup, it is a good idea to configure each board and save the configs separately to prevent coil or lamp lock-on due to a wing being defined as a switch or other issues.

==== Example Configuration Files ====

Here are some examples of wing config files. They are not included in the SVN repo, but can be copied and used for configuring boards if saved with a <code>.py</code> extension.

'''2sol2switch.py:''' This config sets Wing 0-1 to ''Solenoid'' wings, and Wing 2-3 to ''Switch'' wings.

<pre>
testVers = '00.00.01'

import rs232Intf

# Config inputs as all state inputs
wingCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.WING_SOL, rs232Intf.WING_SOL, rs232Intf.WING_INP, rs232Intf.WING_INP ] ]

# Config inputs as all state inputs
inpCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE ] ]

# solenoid config
solCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', \
rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', \
rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', \
rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00' ] ]
</pre>

'''4incand.py:''' This config sets all four wings to ''Incandescent''.

<pre>
testVers = '00.00.01'

import rs232Intf

# Config inputs as all state inputs
wingCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.WING_INCAND, rs232Intf.WING_INCAND, rs232Intf.WING_INCAND, rs232Intf.WING_INCAND ] ]

# Config inputs as all state inputs
inpCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE ] ]

# solenoid config
solCfg = [ [ '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00' ] ]
</pre>

'''2incand2switch.py''': This config sets Wing 0-1 as ''Incandescent'' and Wing 2-3 as ''Switch''.

<pre>
testVers = '00.00.01'

import rs232Intf

# Config inputs as all state inputs
wingCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.WING_INCAND, rs232Intf.WING_INCAND, rs232Intf.WING_INP, rs232Intf.WING_INP ] ]

# Config inputs as all state inputs
inpCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE ] ]

# solenoid config
solCfg = [ [ '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00' ] ]
</pre>

The key lines in each file are <code>wingCfg</code>, which defines the layout, and <code>solCfg</code>, which sets the default values for each solenoid if a ''Solenoid'' wing is used on the ''Processor''. <code>InpCfg</code> and the rest of the file are the same for each config.

<code>wingCfg</code> lists each wing type in order of wing position from 0 to 3. <code>solCfg</code> has three parameters per coil - the type of solenoid (USE_SWITCH, AUTO_CLR, ON_OFF_SOL, or DLY_KICK_SOL), initial kick time in milliseconds ("\x20" equals 32ms), and the last is the PWM duty cycle. "\x00" disables PWM. All values are in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexadecimal hexadecimal] notation.

For a detailed explanation of what each value means, you can reference the documentation for the serial protocol (<code>opp/Docs/brdIntf.pdf</code>) in the SVN repo, as well as see the definitions for each value in the <code>opp/Python/Gen2Test/rs232Intf.py</code> script.

However, any of the above examples, or the included <code>mdCfg</code> file, will work as-is without needing a deep understanding of the firmware internals.

==== Check Processor Configurations ====

From the command line, change into the <code>opp/Python/Gen2Test</code> directory.

Plug in the ''Processor'' with the USB jumpers installed and run the command (with either <code>C:\Python27\Python.exe</code> or just <code>python</code> depending on your system):

<code>Gen2Test.py -port=[serial-device]</code>

Where the <code>serial-device</code> is the appropriate serial port on the host computer saved from earlier. The command should provide an inventory of the ''Wings'' as set by the firmware when it was uploaded. The default is all wings set to ''Switch''.

<pre>
% python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411
Sending inventory cmd
Found 1 Gen2 brds.
Addr = ['0x20']
0x20 WingCfg = 0x02020202
0x20 INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING
</pre>

If there are additional processors in the chain, it will display the configuration for all attached processors.

==== Erase Wing Configuration ====

To erase the existing config, run the command with the '''eraseCfg''' option:

<pre>
% python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411 -eraseCfg
Sending inventory cmd
Found 1 Gen2 brds.
Addr = ['0x20']
0x20 WingCfg = 0x02020202
0x20 INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING
Sent erase cfg command.
</pre>

==== Save Wing Configuration ====

To save a new config, run the command with the '''saveCfg''' option and specify the config file with the '''loadCfg''' command.

<pre>
% python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411 -saveCfg -loadCfg=2sol2switch.py
Sending inventory cmd
Found 1 Gen2 brds.
Addr = ['0x20']
0x20 WingCfg = 0x02020202
0x20 INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING
loadFileName = 2sol2switch
Sending wing cfg.
Sending input cfg.
Sending solenoid cfg.
Skipping sending color table.
Sending save cfg command.
Done save cfg command.
</pre>

Run Gen2Test again with just the port parameter to check the new configuration.

<pre>
% python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411
Sending inventory cmd
Found 1 Gen2 brds.
Addr = ['0x20']
0x20 WingCfg = 0x01010202
0x20 SOL_WING SOL_WING INP_WING INP_WING
</pre>

This configuration will persist between power cycles, so once this step is complete, Gen2Test will not be needed again except to test the connection between the host computer and the '''OPP''' boards. To perform that test, unplug and plug-in the ''Processor'' and run Gen2Test again to confirm the configuration is saved as above.

==== Upgrade Firmware ====

If you are at firmware revision ''0.2.0.1'' or higher, the following command should work to upgrade a whole chain of processors:

<code>python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411 -upgrade</code>

It checks to see if all the cards have firmware version 0.2.0.1 or higher. At that point, it goes to the <code>OPP/Creator/Gen2Images</code> folder and looks for the newest version in that directory. Note that the files must end with the <code>.cvacd</code> extension.

It then upgrades each of the cards in turn, starting with the first card, ending with the last card in the chain. This process replaces the cumbersome single processor method for lower firmware revisions.

==== Display Switch Inputs ====

To debug switch inputs, you can run <code>Gen2Test</code> with the following command:

<code>python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411 -test=1 -card=0</code>

The '''test=1''' command reads the inputs from the card, and displays them on the screen as a single continuously updated line.

'''card=0''' tells the test to display the inputs for the first card in the chain. This even works with switch matrices, so it gives you the direct inputs and the 64 switch matrix inputs. It can only do a single card at a time because it continuously overwrites the line.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Once each individual board is configured, the next step is to create the serial connection between boards by chaining them together via multiple 8-wire ribbon cables.

==== Serial Cables ====

The serial cables consist of standard 8-wire '''ribbon cable''' - usually a light grey or sometimes in rainbow colors - with '''FC-8P''' connectors on each end. These are '''IDC''' connectors, which is an acronym for ''Insulation Displacement Contact''. IDC connectors ''displace'' the insulation on a wire to make a connection.

[[Image:fc-8p.jpg]]

You place the wire flat inside the connector and compress the cover (using pliers or similar) to cut into the insulation and connect the wires. The cover locks and all 8 pins should now be connected. The ends can be trimmed with a side cutter or X-Acto knife. The connector should include a cap, used for extra support for the cable, under which the wire is bent prior to crimping.

Each FC-8P connector will have a positioning tab on the housing, and it is recommended to have the tab facing down towards the cable on one end and facing out on the other, so the tab is the same direction at the top and bottom. It isn't critical but it makes it easier to install cables knowing the tab always faces the same direction.

The finished cable should look similar to this example.

[[Image:ribbon-cable.png]]

==== First Processor ====

The first board in the chain connects to the host controller via USB, and uses the integrated USB-to-Serial interface to connect to the ''Interface'' board via a 4-wire cable that must be constructed. This cable consists of two '''Molex 2.54mm''' housings and pins, which are part of the '''BoM''' for the ''Interface'' wing.

It connects 5V and Ground to power the other boards in the chain, as well as the TX and RX serial lines used for communicating between ''Processors''.

If you are not familiar with crimping Molex connectors, you can read a [http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/#good detailed tutorial] on the [http://www.pinrepair.com PinRepair] site that covers proper connection crimping prior to constructing the cable.

Once both the 4-wire and ribbon cables are done, they can be connected to the ''Processor'' per the following diagram:

[[Image:first-processor.png]]

The ''Interface'' wing has two 2 x 4 2.54mm connectors labelled '''IN''' and '''OUT'''. The ribbon cable is connected to the '''OUT''' with the ribbon running down from the wing.

==== Middle Processor ====

The ribbon cable from the first board connects to the '''IN''' connector on the ''Interface'' wing of the middle ''Processor'' with the ribbon facing up, and another ribbon cable is connected to the '''OUT''' connector to lead to the next ''Processor''. This is repeated for each additional ''Processor'' in the chain until the last one, so you will need multiple ribbon cables.

[[Image:middle-processor.png]]

==== Last Processor ====

On the last ''Processor'' in the Serial Chain, the ribbon cable from the previous ''Processor'' is attached to the '''IN''' connector and a '''Jumper''' is placed between '''Pins 3-4''' on the '''OUT''' connector, or the top right two pins, to ''terminate'' the chain by looping the serial connection together.

Without the jumper, the serial connection chain will not work and any commands will fail.

[[Image:last-processor.png]]

==== Testing the Chain ====

With the first ''Processor'' plugged into USB, all ''Processors'' should light up if wired correctly. If not, check the ribbon cables for correct orientation. Plugging them in backwards will not damage the boards but it will prevent them from getting power.

Note on this example of a two board chain, the yellow LEDs are lit on both boards, indicating a successful connection:

[[Image:chained-processors.jpg]]

Running <code>Gen2Test</code> with only the port parameter should generate an inventory of all cards:

<pre>
% python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411
Sending inventory cmd
Found 2 Gen2 brds.
Addr = ['0x20', '0x21']
0x20 WingCfg = 0x01010202
0x20 SOL_WING SOL_WING INP_WING INP_WING
0x21 WingCfg = 0x02020202
0x21 INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING
</pre>

== Wiring Examples ==

At this point the controller boards are ready to be installed in the game and wired up to all solenoids, lamps and switches.

'''Important Note''': When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, coils and lamps/LEDs, it is ''critical'' to '''connect all grounds together at the power supplies''' to avoid a potential '''floating ground''' issue that can easily destroy your OPP boards.

[[Image:connected-boards.jpg]]

==== Solenoids ====

Solenoids are wired with positive voltage from the high voltage power supply (24V to 70V depending on your game) and the other lug to the ''Solenoid'' wing via the 2x6 Molex connector. When the MOSFET is triggered, it connects ground for that solenoid and it activates.

'''NOTE:''' a '''4004 or similar''' diode must be placed across the positive and ground connections with the band towards the positive wire. This allows for the flyback voltage that is generated when a coil's magnetic field collapses. Without it, that voltage travels back to the ''Solenoid'' wing and will likely destroy the MOSFETs, so it is '''critical''' that the diode be in place.

Direct switches are connected via the 1x4 Molex connector and wired to the Logic (5V) ground.

[[Image:solenoid-wiring.png]]

==== Incandescent Lamps ====

Lamps are wired with positive voltage from the 6.3V power supply and connected to an ''Incandescent'' wing via the 1x8 Molex connector. The ground for the lamps is provided by the 1x2 Molex connector, which should be connected to the 6.3V power supply ground.

[[Image:lamp-wiring.png]]

==== Switches ====

Switches are wired with ground from the logic (5V) power supply and connected to the ''Switch'' wing (directly to the ''Processor'') via the 1x8 Molex connector. Power is provided via the ''Interface'' card from the USB connection.

[[Image:switch-wiring.png]]

==Arduino and OPP ==

Although designed specifically to be used with the Cyruss processors boards, the wings can be driven by alternative microcontrollers, such as ''Arduino'' and others.

==== Connecting a Coil Wing to an Arduino ====

The +5V and +12V pins near R4 are unused for the basic operation of the MOSFETs. Only the ground pin near R4 is required. This should be connected to the ground coming from the +5V logic power source. It would also work to connect this directly to a ground pin on the ''Arduino''. If this pin is not grounded correctly or has an intermittent connection, you will see random MOSFET firing.

Connect pins 4 - 7 to an ''Arduino'' pin configured for ''output'' and drive them ''high'' (+5V with the standard MOSFETs) to activate a solenoid.

The '''Auto Fire''' pin header is not used directly by the boards. It is simply a pass thru to pins 0 - 3. You can leave the 4 pin header off for most purposes. One possible use is to flip the header around and use it to make a more secure connection to the ground pin mentioned previously.

==== Driving Coils from the Arduino Software ====

The ''Arduino'' '''digitalWrite''' command is quite slow, due to some error checking that is done in the background. This may introduce lag into the solenoid firing. A discussion of the problem, and how it can be remedied, can be found [http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-is-Slow-and-how-to-fix-it/ here].

==== Connecting a Coil Wing to MPF ====
See the [http://docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/hardware/opp/index.html MPF Documentation about OPP] for details.

== Troubleshooting ==

If after assembling the boards and testing the connections they do not work, see below for some suggestions on next steps.

==== Python Errors ====

<code>IndexError: string index out of range</code>

This error means that the serial communication failed and no results were returned.

* Has the firmware been installed?
* Has the ''Processor'' been correctly configured for the wings that are installed?
* Is the yellow power LED on when plugged into USB?
* Are you using the correct serial port? Note that on Raspberry Pi PCs that the default driver for the Cypress processors needs to be disabled in <code>/etc/modprobe.d</code>. See the [[#Firmware|Firmware]] section for details.

If the answers to the above questions are ''Yes'', then the issue may be hardware related.

<code>ImportError: No module named serial</code>

This error is generated when you do not have the '''pyserial''' module installed on your host PC. It can be installed via <code>pip install pyserial</code>.

Download page for pyserial for Windows and other OSes: [https://pypi.python.org/pypi/pyserial https://pypi.python.org/pypi/pyserial]

==== Hardware Checklist ====

More often than not, due to having to self-assemble the boards, assembly errors can cause issues. Here is a checklist of possible reasons why a ''Processor'' may not respond to commands.

* Check 5V at multiple points: Interface wing, USB-to-Serial interface, bottom of Cypress board
* Check ground connections are correct and solid with no breaks in the solder
* Use a multimeter to confirm RX/TX lines are cut
* When testing a single board, confirm both RX and TX lines are correctly jumpered on USB-to-Serial interface
* When testing multiple boards, confirm all cables are correctly oriented
* When testing multiple boards, confirm last board is correctly terminated with a jumper on pins 3-4 of OUT connector

==== Contact OPP Support ====

If a reason for the failure cannot be found, the maintainer of the Open Pinball Project offers support via email at:

[[Image:opp_email.png]]

The maintainer is extremely responsive to questions and can often help find the issue with your setup. However, remember that OPP is run by volunteers, so they may not respond immediately to requests for help.

OPP

2022-08-16T22:41:55Z

Jwilson: /* Linux Firmware Programming */

== Open Pinball Project ==

The [https://openpinballproject.wordpress.com/ Open Pinball Project (OPP)] was started in 2012 as a resource for pinball makers to have an inexpensive, fully open sourced project for controlling custom pinball machines. It is currently on a second generation design and has had a successful Kickstarter run of boards and components currently in the hands of makers all over the world.

'''In 1Q 2020, it was decided to switch to a new layout, due to the unavailability of processor boards.

'''This page should be considered as a Work In Progress. '''

Archives on the previous layout can be found on [[OPP-Cypress|Archives of OPP]]'''.
More details on this change are available in the [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/mpf-users/QVQsO6JjID8 MPF Users forum].

== Hardware ==

The '''OPP''' hardware is made up of three main components:

* The '''Processor''' board is a [https://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/products/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32-32-bit-arm-cortex-mcus/stm32-mainstream-mcus/stm32f1-series/stm32f103/stm32f103c8.html STM32F103C8 ] prototyping board that can be purchased from '''TODO'''.
* The '''Wing''' boards allow the control of solenoids, lamps, LEDs or input from switches.
* The '''Power Filter Board''' to allow the use of inexpensive switching power supplies.

The following is an example of some fully assembled and wired OPP ''Processors'' with ''Wing'' boards.

''Pictures to be added''

=== Processor Boards ===

The ''Processor'' board can have up to four ''Wing'' boards controlling solenoids, incandescent lamps, or allowing input for switches. The ''Wing'' boards themselves can be combined in any configuration, so a single ''Processor'' board can support up to 16 solenoids (with 16 direct switch inputs), 32 switch inputs or 32 lamps. Each ''Wing'' board uses eight pins.

All other pins are unused.

''Pictures to be added''

The ''Processor'' itself does not run game rules or other game logic - a ''Controller'' like [https://missionpinball.org/ Mission Pinball] running on a separate PC is still required to handle scoring and other game logic and to fire coils and light lamps as needed. The ''Processor'' simply provides the physical connection to playfield devices. However, coils can automatically be fired by the activation of their related direct switch input to allow a "white wood" mode that does not require a controller.

=== Solenoid Wing ===

The ''Solenoid'' wing uses MOSFETs to control up to four individual coils via a ''ground sink'' method, where the coils themselves are wired to the positive side of the high voltage power supply and the MOSFET provides a ground path when activated, firing the coil.

Standard coil voltages are '''24V''' to '''48V''' and upwards of '''10A''' of current.

[[Image:solenoid-wing.png]]

There are two connectors on the ''Solenoid'' wing - the larger 6-pin has four pins for the coil connections and two for ground. The 4-pin connector is for ''direct control'' switch inputs to control special solenoids.

==== Special Solenoids ====

For devices like flippers, slingshots or pop bumpers that require fast response to switch hits in order to fire coils, the ''Solenoid'' wing has four '''Direct Inputs''' that are used to directly activate the associated coil without the computer needing to detect a switch closure and send a solenoid activation command. These are known as ''Autofire'' coils. This direct activation can also be cancelled if needed by the Controller where theses switches can be considered as normal switches.

As of this writing, '''OPP''' only supports ''Autofire'' coils using the direct inputs or switch inputs on the '''same controller as the solenoid itself'''. This means you can't have an ''Autofire'' switch on another controller.

Another advantage to using the direct switches is that it allows the game to be tested without a host controller, since pop bumpers, slingshots and flippers will work at power-on.

The 4-pin connector for the direct switches can cause some packaging issues with the solenoid connector, so it is recommended to leave it out when building the boards if there is no need for ''Autofire'' coils.

=== Incandescent Wing ===

The ''Incandescent'' wing uses MOSFETs to control up to eight direct wired incandescent lamps via the same ''ground sink'' method as the coils.

Lamps require a high current '''6.3V''' power supply as each bulb needs about '''.25A''' at full brightness.

[[Image:incandescent-wing.png]]

''Direct wired'' means that each lamp is wired up and controlled individually via the 8-pin connector, rather than in the ''Matrix'' style that most commercial pinball machines used until recently.

The other 2-pin connector is for the '''Ground''' connection.

Note: This picture shows the MOSFETs reversed from the silkscreen which is required if using 2N7000TA MOSFETs which should be avoided. If using the BS-170 MOSFETs, the silkscreen matches the MOSFET orientation. Careful!

=== Switch Wing ===

Switches are wired directly to the ''Processor'' board via an 8-pin 2.54mm locking header.

''Picture to be added''

Unlike the ''Solenoid'' and ''Incandescent'' wings, the ''Switch'' wing is set up as ''High-side'', where the switch pins are at '''5V''' and playfield and cabinet switches are tied to '''Ground''', so that when a switch is activated, the pins are grounded and the switch is considered 'closed'. It is set up this way since the ''Processor'' pins have a '''Pull-Up''' resistor on them that is tied to 5V.

The switches provide a ground path for the normally-high inputs.

=== Power Filter Board ===

[[image:Poppwrfilt1.jpg|Power Filter Board]]

When firing solenoids, there is a large instantaneous draw of current from the power supply. A standard switching power supply may detect this as a short, and turn off. To prevent this from occurring, a large amount of bulk capacitance can be added, so the instantaneous current can be drawn from the bulk capacitors. Also, when initially charging the bulk capacitors, a large amount of current is drawn. A high power negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor is used to reduce the initial current draw to charge the capacitors. This is the basis of the design for the ''Power Filter Board''.

[[Image:power-filter-pinout.png]]

The board contains the following additional features:

* An LED to indicate when the capacitors are charged
* Ability to turn on/off the power by grounding a pin
* Output pin that can be used as an input to a processor for detecting if high voltage is enabled
* Board can be configured for one or two different high voltages through board population

The power filter board can be configured to provide bulk capacitance for one or two power supplies. If two power supplies are needed, a second P-Channel MOSFET and inrush current limiter (NTC) must be bought.

If the ability to enable/disable the high power voltage isn't needed, a jumper can be added instead of the P-channel MOSFETs.

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering and assembling the '''OPP''' boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire the '''OPP''' boards, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.
* '''Pin Extractor:''' [http://www.digikey.com/short/3hvfr2 Digikey] has the Molex-branded tool for extracting the Mini-Fit Jr. style of square connectors used on the ''Solenoid'' wings.

==== Determine Board Layout ====

Prior to purchasing the '''OPP''' boards and components, you need to know how many '''solenoids, lamps''' and '''switches''' you need to support, where to put them, and how they will be mounted.

For example, a custom game might require 31 inputs, 10 solenoids (with 10 direct inputs), and 43 incandescent bulbs. This could be accomplished with four ''Processor'' boards and four ''Interface'' wings, three ''Solenoid'' wings, six ''Incandescent'' wings and five ''Switch'' wings. Technically this is more boards and wings than are strictly required, as the ''Processor'' boards could handle a denser wing configuration, but this layout cuts down on the total wiring required by placing ''Processors'' close to the devices they are controlling, saving significant time and materials.

Alternatively, consider a ''Williams Jokerz'' machine. It has 19 solenoids (including direct inputs), 39 switches and 63 incandescent bulbs (which includes 9 flashers). A possible layout for that is five ''Processor'' boards with five ''Interface'' wings, four ''Solenoid'' wings, eight ''Incandescent'' wings and five ''Switch'' wings.

You can place ''Processors'' near what is being controlled, or put them all together in the head of the machine like a traditional commercial pinball - it is entirely up to the maker as to where to place ''Processors'', but placement ''will'' determine the final number of ''Processors'' and wings required.

Once the total number of ''Processor'' and ''Wing'' boards has been determined, and their approximate location in the final machine, parts can be ordered.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

When running solenoids and lamps, you'll need three voltages: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''6.3V 10A''' for lamps and '''24V to 48V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for lamps. A high power DC-DC step down ''Buck Converter'' can be used to convert '''12V''' to '''6.3V''' for incandescents.

You can use a separate '''24V to 48V 10A''' switcher for solenoids if you also use the '''Power Filter Board'''.

== Getting Blank Boards ==

The '''OPP''' site itself does not sell blank boards and there currently is no one selling fully populated and tested boards. However, given the open source nature of the project, there are multiple ways to get the blanks.

The easiest is to order boards from [http://mezelmods.com/collections/open-pinball-project-parts MezelMods] as they offer blanks for a very reasonable $1US per board.

The next option is to create '''Gerber''' files from the [http://kicad-pcb.org/download/KiCad KiCad] files located in the OPP [https://svn.code.sf.net/p/open-pinball-project/code/trunk SVN] repository. For this you'll need to download '''KiCad''', which is a printed circuit board design tool that was used to create the '''OPP''' boards. Once you have the ''Gerber'' files, they can be uploaded to a number of low-cost PCB manufacturers such as:

* [https://www.oshstencils.com/ OSH Stencils]
* [https://oshpark.com/ OSH Park]
* [https://www.seeedstudio.com/fusion_pcb.html SeeedStudio]
* [https://www.itead.cc/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html iTEAD]

Each PCB maker has plusses and minuses that are too involved to go into in this wiki, but '''SeeedStudio''' has good prices and fast shipping.

Getting PCBs made can be a fairly advanced process, so it is recommended to simply purchase the already-made boards via [http://mezelmods.com/collections/open-pinball-project-parts MezelMods]. They also offer additional parts that are less expensive than purchasing through Digikey or Mouser such as the '''FC-8P''' connectors and the '''1x40 2.54 mm''' headers.

== Getting Components ==

Once you have the bare boards, they will need to be fully populated with components, which are not included - they will need to be sourced separately. The following is a '''Bill of Materials''' (BoM) for each ''Processor'' and ''Wing'' board.

==== Processor Board ====

OPP has moved away from using PSOC4200 boards since they are no longer available. The firmware has been ported to use STM32F103C8T6 blue pill boards that are even cheaper. These boards can easily be purchased from either Ebay or Aliexpress. A programmer (ST Link-V2) is needed to program the firmware. Luckily, these are typically sold from the same vendors. In either Ebay or Aliexpress search for STM32F103C8T6. If using Aliexpress insure that the seller has sold at least a couple of hundred boards. Processor boards and the programmer are about $1.50 or $2.00 each plus shipping if willing to wait for shipping from China.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
! Mezel Price
|-
| 1
| Ebay or Aliexpress
| STM32F103C8T6 blue pill
| $2.00/ea
| N/A
|}

'''Note:''' The STM32F103C8T6 processor boards come with the headers so there is no need to purchase them anymore.

==== Solenoid Wing ====

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
|-
| 4
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=IRL540NPBF 942-IRL540NPBF]
| N-Channel MOSFET 100V 36A
| $0.71/ea
|-
| 4
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=CFR-12JR-5210K 603-CFR-12JR-5210K]
| 10K Ohm Resistor (1/6W 5%)
| $0.02/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=35317-0620 538-35317-0620]
| Molex 6-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Header
| $0.28/ea
|-
| 6
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=39-00-0039 538-39-00-0039]
| Molex Crimp-Style 4.2 mm 24-18AWG Female Pins
| $0.19/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=39-01-2065 538-39-01-2065]
| Molex 6-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Housing
| $0.52/ea
|-
|colspan=4|Parts Needed ONLY If Adding Direct Switches
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=640454-4 640454-4]
| 4-pin Polarized 2.54 mm Header
| $0.12/ea
|-
| 6
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=08-50-0136 538-08-50-0136]
| Molex Crimp-Style 2.54 mm KK Pins
| $0.13/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=22-01-2047 538-22-01-2047]
| Molex 4-Pin 2.54 mm Housing
| $0.17/ea
|}

'''Note:''' The total number of crimp-style pins included in the BoM is higher than actually needed to account for re-crimping.

'''Note 2:''' Since the price of the higher current (IRL540) MOSFETs have dropped, it now makes sense just to use these MOSFETs for all configurations.

==== Incandescent Wing ====

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
|-
| 8
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/BS170 512-BS170]
| N-Channel MOSFET 60V 500mA
| $0.39/ea
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/35317-0220/ 538-35317-0220]
| Molex 2-pin 4.2 mm Header
| $0.12/ea
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-01-2025/ 538-39-01-2025]
| Molex 2-pin 4.2 mm Housing
| $0.33/ea
|-
| 3
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-00-0039 538-39-00-0039]
| Molex Crimp-Style 4.2 mm 24-18AWG Female Pins
| $0.19/ea
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/640454-8/ 571-6404548]
| 8-pin 2.54 mm Polarized Header
| $0.45/ea
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-2087/ 538-22-01-2087]
| Molex 8-pin 2.54 mm Housing
| $0.32/ea
|-
| 10
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0136/ 538-08-50-0136]
| Molex Crimp-Style 2.54 mm KK Pins
| $0.13/ea
|-
|colspan=4|Lower Current alternative MOSFET that should be avoided
|-
| 8
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/2N7000TA/ 512-2N7000TA]
| MOSFET 60V N-Channel
| $0.33/ea
|}

==== Switch Wing ====

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/640454-8/ 571-6404548]
| 8-pin 2.54 mm Polarized Header
| $0.45/ea
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-2087/ 538-22-01-2087]
| Molex 8-pin 2.54 mm Housing
| $0.32/ea
|-
| 10
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0136/ 538-08-50-0136]
| Molex Crimp-Style 2.54 mm KK Pins
| $0.13/ea
|}

'''Note:''' The ''Switch'' wing is just the 8-pin headers soldered directly to the ''Processor'' board with the upright lock facing out from the board.

==== Interface Wing ====

Interface wing boards are no longer needed if using the newer STM32F103 processor boards. Each STM32F103 is connected to the host computer with a USB cable. This eliminates the need for the interface board.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
! Mezel Price
|-
| 2
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-FCI/68602-108HLF/ 649-68602-108HLF]
| 2 x 4 position 2.54 mm Header
| $0.45/ea
| [http://mezelmods.com/collections/under20/products/4-pin-2-54mm-dual-in-line-row-male-header-connector $0.20/ea]
|-
| 1
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/640454-4/ 640454-4]
| Molex 4-Pin 2.54 mm Polarized Header
| $0.12/ea
| N/A
|-
| 2
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-2047/ 538-22-01-2047]
| Molex 4-Pin 2.54 mm Housing
| $0.17/ea
| N/A
|-
| 10
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0136/ 538-08-50-0136]
| Molex Crimp-Style 2.54 mm KK Pins
| $0.13/ea
| N/A
|-
| 2
| eBay (search "FC-8P")
| FC-8P IDC Socket 2.54 mm
| ~ $0.10/ea
| [http://mezelmods.com/collections/under20/products/fc-8p-2-54mm-idc-connector-8-pin-cable-socket $0.20/ea]
|-
| ~10ft
| eBay (search "8 pin IDC cable")
| 8-pin IDC Flat cable
| ~$1/ft
| N/A
|}

'''Note:''' Neither Mouser nor Digikey have FC-8P connectors or flat cable in stock, so eBay is the best source for these parts. Mezel Mods sells FC-8P connectors and 2x4 Pin headers for a lower price.

==== Power Filter Board ====

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Qty / 1 Switcher
! Qty / 2 Switcher
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
|-
| 1
| 1
| [https://mezelmods.com/collections/open-pinball-project-parts/products/open-pinball-project-power-supply-filter-board PCB]
| PCB from Mezel Mods
| $5.00/ea
|-
| 3
| 3
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/SLPX822M063H5P3/ 598-SLPX822M063H5P3]
| Bulk Capacitor, 8.2mF, 63V
| $4.28/ea
|-
| 1
| 2
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ametherm/SG26/ 995-SG26]
| Inrush current limiter (NTC Thermistor)
| $2.28/ea
|-
| 2
| 3
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/35317-0620/ 538-35317-0620]
| Molex 6-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Header
| $0.28/ea
|-
| 1
| 2
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/STF10P6F6/ 511-STF10P6F6]
| P - Channel MOSFET
| $0.85/ea
|-
| 3
| 6
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/OK1045E-R52/ 588-OK1045E-R52]
| 100K Ohm Resistor
| $0.02/ea
|-
| 1
| 2
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SLX-LX5093ID/ 696-SLX-LX5093ID]
| High voltage 5mm (T-1 3/4) indicator LED
| $0.06/ea
|-
| 12
| 18
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-00-0039/ 538-39-00-0039]
| Molex Crimp-Style 4.2 mm 24-18AWG Female Pins
| $0.19/ea
|-
| 2
| 3
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-01-2065/ 538-39-01-2065]
| Molex 6-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Housing
| $0.52/ea
|-
| 1
| 1
|[http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/640456-6/ 571-6404566]
| FRICTION LCK 6P Header
| $0.38/ea
|}

The power filter board can be configured to provide bulk capacitance for one or two power supplies. If two power supplies are needed, a second P-Channel MOSFET and inrush current limiter must be bought.

If the ability to enable/disable the high power voltage isn't needed, a jumper can be added instead of the P-channel MOSFETs.

'''Note:''' Another through-hole resistor is needed if planning to allow a processor to read if the voltage is enabled or not. A simple voltage divider is used to convert the high voltage to the processor input voltage. The value of that resistor is different depending on the input voltage from your power supply and the input voltage of the processor. The table lists the 1% and 5% standard value resistor. (Choose the cheapest):

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Input Voltage
! Processor Voltage
! Resistor Ohm
! 1% Resistor
! 5% Resistor
|-
| 24V
| 5V
| 380K
| 383K
| 390K
|-
| 48V
| 5V
| 860K
| 866K
| 910K
|-
| 70V
| 5V
| 1.3M
| 1.3M
| 1.3M
|-
| 24V
| 3.3V
| 628K
| 634K
| 680K
|-
| 48V
| 3.3V
| 1.35M
| 1.37M
| 1.5M
|-
| 70V
| 3.3V
| 2.02M
| 2.05M
| 2.2M
|-
|}

The equation to calculate the resistor value is:

<code>(Power Supply Voltage * 100K) / Processor Voltage - 100K = Resistor</code>

==== Solenoid Plank ====
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Quantity
! Mouser Part #
! Description
! Price Est.
|-
| 8
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=IRL540NPBF 942-IRL540NPBF]
| N-Channel MOSFET 100V 36A
| $0.71/ea
|-
| 8
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=CFR-12JR-5210K 603-CFR-12JR-5210K]
| 10K Ohm Resistor (1/6W 5%)
| $0.02/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=35317-1220 538-35317-1220]
| Molex 12-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Header
| $0.66/ea
|-
| 12
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=39-00-0039 538-39-00-0039]
| Molex Crimp-Style 4.2 mm 24-18AWG Female Pins
| $0.19/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=39-01-2125 538-39-01-2125]
| Molex 12-pin 4.2 mm Mini-Fit Housing
| $0.74/ea
|-
|colspan=4|Parts Needed ONLY If Adding Direct Switches
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=640454-8 571-6404548]
| 8-pin 2.54 mm Polarized Header
| $0.45/ea
|-
| 12
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=08-50-0136 538-08-50-0136]
| Molex Crimp-Style 2.54 mm KK Pins
| $0.13/ea
|-
| 1
| [https://www.mouser.com/_/?keyword=22-01-2087 538-22-01-2087]
| Molex 8-pin 2.54 mm Housing
| $0.32/ea
|}

'''Note:''' The total number of crimp-style pins included in the BoM is higher than actually needed to account for re-crimping. The interface section can only be populated if the plank board is installed as wing 0, wing 1 and using PSOC4200 processor boards.

'''Note 2:''' Since the price of the higher current (IRL540) MOSFETs have dropped, it now makes sense just to use these MOSFETs for all configurations.

== Assembly ==

Once all the boards and the components are available, you can begin assembly.
=== Common ===

==== Solenoid Wing Assembly ====

The parts for the ''Solenoid'' wing are the four MOSFETs, four 10K Resistors, a 2x3 header and a 4-pin locking header. If you are not using the ''direct switch'' capabilities of the ''Solenoid'' wing, it is recommended to leave the 4-pin out of the build as it causes some packaging issues when placing wings next to each other, as the 2x3 header sticks off the end of the board slightly and makes contact with the 4-pin header on the adjacent wing.

Start with the smallest components and work upwards - resistors, MOSFETs then headers. The 2x3 header should be installed with the locking tab facing "up" as in the above diagram.

==== Incandescent Wing Assembly ====

The through-hole ''Incandescent'' wing parts are eight 2N7000 MOSFETs, an 1x8 locking header for lamp connections and a 2-pin header for the 12V ground connection. No resistors are required, so all resistor spots are left empty.

The tab for the 2-pin header should face inwards towards the center of the board.

==== Switch Wing Assembly ====

There is no physical wing board required for the ''Switch'' wing - it consists entirely of a single 8-pin 2.54mm locking header connected directly to the ''Processor'' board.

==== Power Filter Board ====

Install jumpers, resistors, LEDs, MOSFETs and connectors first, then thermistors and finally the three capacitors with the negative leg facing towards the bottom of the board. LEDs are installed with the flat part facing down.

If not using the power control capability of the board, the MOSFETs and their associated resistors are not needed.

[[Image:Power-filter-assembly.png]]

==== Power Filter Board, One Voltage Supply, No Controls ====

The power filter board tries to be all things to all people. As such, it can be confusing to know how to populate the board. This section describes how to populate a power filter board for a single power supply, no processor control or feedback to detect if power supply is on, and no safety LED for indicating capacitors are charged.

Purchase the first four items (first column quantities) from this table [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/OPP#Power_Filter_Board_2 Filter Board Parts]. Install the three bulk capacitors, one NTC thermistor (install in left position), and two 6-pin Molex connectors (install in top and left positions). Using the clipped off leads from the NTC thermistor, add the red and blue jumpers as seen in the image above. Lastly, add the two light green jumpers that are marked by Q1 and Q2 on the silkscreen. (Only one is shown in the above image, while the second is shown as a MOSFET. In both positions, the jumper needs to go between the middle and right holes as shown in the image)

==== Solenoid Plank Assembly ====

The parts for the ''Solenoid'' plank are the eight MOSFETs, eight 10K Resistors, a 2x6 header and a 8-pin locking header.

When assembling, start with the shortest components and work towards tallest - resistors and jumpers, headers, and lastly, MOSFETs. The 2x6 header should be installed with the locking tab facing "down" as in the silkscreen.

[[Image:solenoid-assembly.jpg]]

=== STM32F103 ===

[[File:STM32ChangesToSupportAllWings.png]]

[[File:STM32NeoInpPlank.png]]

[[File:STM32NeoSolInpIncand.png]]

=== PSOC4200 ===

==== Processor Board Assembly ====

As delivered, the Cypress PSoC 4200 board needs to have two traces on the USB to Serial portion of the board cut - the TX and RX lines. Use an X-Acto knife to cut the thin traces on both sides of the board and use a Multimeter to test between the two through holes to confirm there is no connectivity. This is important to prevent crosstalk on the serial lines.

After the lines are cut, the headers (or lock connectors if being used for switches) can be soldered in, along with the 2x4 header between the USB-to-Serial interface and the main board.

[[Image:processor-assembly.png]]

==== Interface Wing Assembly ====

The main parts of the ''Interface'' wing are the two 2x4 headers for the serial connection and the 4-pin locking header that is used on the first ''Processor'' board to bring the Serial output from the USB-to-Serial card into the ''Interface'' wing. The 4-pin header is only required for the first ''Processor'' board in the chain, and can be left out when building the wing for subsequent boards.

[[Image:interface-assembly.png]]

It is best to start with the smallest components and work up - solder the two termination jumpers (marked as '''R2''' and '''R3''') and the serial connector enable jumper as depicted in the diagram, then the 2x4 headers, and finally the 4-pin header if needed.

Once assembled, the ''Interface'' board can be soldered to the ''Processor'' board on the last four pins marked '''4.0''' through '''4.3''' as per the diagram.

The final step is to connect VDD and GND to the ''Interface'' wing by soldering wire from the ''Processor'' board to the ''Interface'' wing as per the diagram - GND to '''Pin 1''' and 5V to '''Pin 2'''. This is required to power all the downstream ''Processor'' boards as none of them will be plugged into the USB connector which normally provides power. The 8-pin ribbon cable used for serial communications also provides 5V and ground connections.

==== Attaching solenoid wing to PSOC4200 ====

[[Image:solenoid-assembly.png]]

After assembly, it can be soldered in the appropriate spot on the ''Processor'' board. It is recommended to place ''Solenoid'' boards in the '''Wing 0''' and '''Wing 1''' positions as this allows a short jumper to connect the logic (5V) ground wiring for the pulldown, as well as slightly better fitment due to the chip packaging on the ''Processor'' boards. However, it is not a requirement - ''Solenoid'' wings can be placed in any position, as long as the pulldown ground is properly wired.

After soldering the ''Solenoid'' wing to the ''Processor'' board, use a solid wire jumper to tie it and the ''Interface'' board together on the very end through holes. This is a purely physical connection that helps add stability to the board - there is no electrical connection on those holes. A good source for a jumper wire are the leftover legs from the resistors after they've been soldered in and cut to length.

==== Attaching incandescent wing to PSOC4200 ====

[[Image:incandescent-assembly.png]]

'''NOTE:''' As the board was originally designed for BS170s, the screened artwork reflects the pinout for that part, but the pinout is reversed for the 2N7000, so it is critically important to install the MOSFETs in the '''REVERSED''' orientation from the artwork.

Once assembly is complete and the wing is installed on the ''Processor'', a solid wire jumper should be installed on the end holes to provide stability. As with all wing boards other than the ''Interface'' board, the ''Incandescent'' wing can be installed in any of the four positions.

==== Attaching switch wing to PSOC4200 ====

[[Image:switch-assembly.png]]

==== Attaching solenoid plank to PSOC4200 ====

After assembly, it can be soldered in the appropriate spot on the ''Processor'' board. Be careful to line up the pins. If soldering as '''Interface''' , '''Wing 0''' and '''Wing 1''' positions, the bottom pin of the plank lines up with pin4.0 on the processor, and the top pin of the plank lines up with pin4.VDD. If soldering as '''Wing 2''' and '''Wing 3''' positions, the third pin from the bottom lines up with GND on the processor, and the top pin of the plank lines up with pin3.3SWDCLK. The bottom pin on the plank in this position should not be attached to VDD on USB to serial interface portion of the processor card. Make sure to add the extra jumper to attach the logic ground to the pulldown resistors when in '''Wing 2''' and '''Wing 3''' positions.

== Firmware ==

The '''OPP''' boards aren't just about the physical hardware, there's also an operating system - to handle the serial communication with the host, moving messages along the serial chain, activating coils and lamp, and maintaining state for all the above. This software is known as '''Firmware''' and it runs on each ''Processor'' board. This is what talks to the host computer over USB.

The firmware is available for download via the [https://openpinballproject.wordpress.com/repository/ OPP SVN] repo. It must be copied to each ''Processor'' individually in order for them to work. If using a PSoC4200 a group of processors can be upgraded via the Serial Chain. The stm32f103c8t6 must currently be upgraded using the ST-LINK V2 JTAG debugger.

=== stm32f103c8t6 ===

The firmware must be copied onto the stm32f103 processor using a ST-LINK V2 JTAG debugger. (Don't worry, these only cost $1.50 or so) The JTAG debugger is used for programming if using Linux or Windows.

===== Linux / MacOS Firmware Programming =====

Install required software:

* Install libusb and git: sudo apt-get install libusb-1.0-0-dev git
* Move to home: cd ~
* Grab stlink code: git clone https://github.com/texane/stlink
* Move into stlink folder: cd stlink
* Build stlink: make
* Copy binary to /usr/bin: sudo cp build/Release/bin/st-flash /usr/bin

For MacOS, you can get the libraries from Homebrew:

* libusb: https://formulae.brew.sh/formula/libusb
* stlink: https://formulae.brew.sh/formula/stlink

Attaching the debugger and programming firmware:

* Connect the four pins at the edge of the stm32f103c8t6 to 3.3V, SWD, SWCLK and GND to the pins on the ST-LINK V2
* Move the Boot0 jumper from position 0 to 1
* Plug the ST-LINK V2 into a USB port
* Program firmware (firmware is found at repos/Stm32Workbench/Gen3Images): sudo st-flash –format ihex write OppStm32.2.0.0.6.hex
* After programming is completed (printing out Jolly Good!), unplug the ST-LINK V2 from the USB port
* Move the Boot0 jumper from position 1 to 0

Verify firmware version:

* Plug the stm32f103c8t6 into a USB port
* Run Gen2Test.py (Gen2Test is found at repos/Python/Gen2Test): sudo python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/ttyACM0

Note: Gen2Test.py may need to be run a few times to “sync” the serial port because plugging in the USB port may send garbage on the serial port.

===== Windows Firmware Programming =====

Install required software:

* Download STSW-LINK004 from http://www.st.com: https://www.st.com/en/development-tools/stsw-link004.html
* Run setup.exe found in the zip file. This will install the STM32 ST-Link Utility

Attaching the debugger and programming firmware:

* Connect the four pins at the edge of the stm32f103c8t6 to 3.3V, SWD, SWCLK and GND to the pins on the ST-LINK V2
* Move the Boot0 jumper from position 0 to 1
* Plug the ST-LINK V2 into a USB port
* Run STM32 ST-Link Utility
** File->Open File and browse and select firmware file (firmware is found at repos/Stm32Workbench/Gen3Images)
** Target->Program and Verify
* After programming is completed, unplug the ST-LINK V2 from the USB port
* Move the Boot0 jumper from position 1 to 0

Verify firmware version:

* Plug the stm32f103c8t6 into a USB port
* Run Gen2Test.py (Gen2Test is found at repos/Python/Gen2Test): c:\Python27\python.exe Gen2Test.py -port=COM3

Note: Gen2Test.py may need to be run a few times to “sync” the serial port because plugging in the USB port may send garbage on the serial port.

=== PSoC 4200 ===

==== RX/TX Jumpers ====

As part of the initial board setup, the ''RX/TX'' traces were cut on the ''Processor'' board. In order to copy the firmware to the board, jumpers will need to be put in place to connect the two serial pins on the USB-to-Serial interface to the board itself.

[[Image:usb-jumpers.png]]

==== Determine your USB Device ====

In order to talk to the ''Processor'' via the host computer's USB port, a '''device driver''' will likely need to be installed. Cypress offers [http://www.cypress.com/documentation/software-and-drivers/usb-serial-software-development-kit device drivers] for Windows, Linux and Mac.

Install the appropriate driver for your host computer following the instructions from the Cypress site.

Once installed, plugging the ''Processor'' into a USB port on the host computer should result in a device being mounted on your system, with an associated serial device - a '''COM''' port on Windows or a <code>tty</code> or <code>cu</code> file in the <code>/dev</code> directory for Linux and Mac.

Some typical Serial devices are listed below. Please note that this is not a definitive list as the operating systems will assign Serial ports dynamically, so for example on Windows it might be COM8 or COM10, or on OSX it might be /dev/cu.usbmodem1421, and so on.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! OS
! Device
|-
| Windows
| COM9
|-
| Linux
| /dev/ttys1
|-
| OSX
| /dev/cu.usbmodem1411
|-
| Raspbian (Raspberry Pi Linux)
| /dev/ttyACM0
|-
|}

To determine the port, check the syslog on Mac/Linux or the ''System Console'' on Windows.

Whatever the device name is, write it down as it will be needed for copying the firmware and all future communication with the ''Processor'' boards.

===== Raspberry Pi Serial =====

Specific to the Raspberry Pi setup, the default driver for the Cypress controller in the OS sees it as a thermometer, so the driver needs to be disabled. This is done by editing the <code>/etc/modprobe.d/raspi-blacklist.conf</code> file and inserting the following:

<code>blacklist cytherm</code>

If the file doesn't exist, create it.

After saving the file and exiting, do <code>chmod 600 /etc/modprobe.d/raspi-blacklist.conf</code> and then reboot the RPi. The processor should then appear as a USB device using the default serial driver.

==== cyflash ====

'''cyflash''' is a Python utility provided by Cypress to copy firmware to the board. It is included as part of the [https://openpinballproject.wordpress.com/repository/ OPP SVN] repo under the <code>Python/cyflash</code> directory.

The instructions for downloading the SVN repo are detailed on the main SVN page. Once downloaded to the local filesystem into a directory called <code>opp</code>, do a directory listing to confirm the cyflash files are in place.

[[Image:cyflash-directory.png]]

How the firmware is uploaded depends on which OS you use - Windows, Linux or Mac. Linux and Mac are a bit simpler as they already have the correct version of ''Python'' installed by default.

For Windows, download the [https://www.python.org/downloads/windows/ Latest Version] of Python 2.7 and follow the install instructions as listed. It should be in the <code>C:\Python27</code> directory (the default).

From the command line, change into the <code>opp/Python/cyflash/</code> directory. The ''cyflash'' utility can be invoked with the following parameters:

'''Linux/Mac'''
<code>python -m cyflash.__main__ --serial /dev/[serial-device] --serial_baudrate 115200 ../../Creator/Gen2Images/Gen2.rev0.2.0.0.cyacd</code>

'''Windows'''
<code>c:\Python27\Python.exe -m cyflash.__main__ --serial COM[serial-device] --serial_baudrate 115200 ..\..\Creator\Gen2Images\Gen2.rev0.2.0.0.cyacd</code>

Before running the command, you must put the ''Processor'' into '''bootloader''' mode. Plug the board in while holding down the small button at the end of the board, which will cause the blue LED to flash rapidly.

Running ''cyflash'' should begin to upload the firmware to the board.

<pre>
% python -m cyflash.__main__ --serial /dev/cu.usbmodem1411 --serial_baudrate 115200 ../../Creator/Gen2Images/Gen2.rev0.2.0.0.cyacd
CyFlash version: 1.07
Initialising bootloader.
Silicon ID 0x04c81193, revision 17.
Bootloader version: 1.20
Array 0: first row 32, last row 255.
Uploading data (128/128)
Device checksum verifies OK.
Rebooting device.
</pre>

When it is complete, the board should reboot and the LED stop flashing. The board is now ready for configuring the Wing layout.

For versions of firmware greater than 0.2.0.1 it is possible to upgrade without having to disconnect each processor board and program separately. This is covered in the next section.

==== Gen2Test ====

'''Gen2Test''' is the '''OPP''' utility used to check ''Processor'' status, as well as '''erase''', '''load''' and '''save''' the ''Wing'' configuration prior to using it with the host controller. It uses an additional ''Python'' script as a config file that you define. Even if you use a framework like ''MPF'' that automatically sets up the ''Processor'' configs for you on startup, it is a good idea to configure each board and save the configs separately to prevent coil or lamp lock-on due to a wing being defined as a switch or other issues.

==== Example Configuration Files ====

Here are some examples of wing config files. They are not included in the SVN repo, but can be copied and used for configuring boards if saved with a <code>.py</code> extension.

'''2sol2switch.py:''' This config sets Wing 0-1 to ''Solenoid'' wings, and Wing 2-3 to ''Switch'' wings.

<pre>
testVers = '00.00.01'

import rs232Intf

# Config inputs as all state inputs
wingCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.WING_SOL, rs232Intf.WING_SOL, rs232Intf.WING_INP, rs232Intf.WING_INP ] ]

# Config inputs as all state inputs
inpCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE ] ]

# solenoid config
solCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', \
rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', \
rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', \
rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', rs232Intf.CFG_SOL_USE_SWITCH, '\x20', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00' ] ]
</pre>

'''4incand.py:''' This config sets all four wings to ''Incandescent''.

<pre>
testVers = '00.00.01'

import rs232Intf

# Config inputs as all state inputs
wingCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.WING_INCAND, rs232Intf.WING_INCAND, rs232Intf.WING_INCAND, rs232Intf.WING_INCAND ] ]

# Config inputs as all state inputs
inpCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE ] ]

# solenoid config
solCfg = [ [ '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00' ] ]
</pre>

'''2incand2switch.py''': This config sets Wing 0-1 as ''Incandescent'' and Wing 2-3 as ''Switch''.

<pre>
testVers = '00.00.01'

import rs232Intf

# Config inputs as all state inputs
wingCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.WING_INCAND, rs232Intf.WING_INCAND, rs232Intf.WING_INP, rs232Intf.WING_INP ] ]

# Config inputs as all state inputs
inpCfg = [ [ rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, \
rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE, rs232Intf.CFG_INP_STATE ] ]

# solenoid config
solCfg = [ [ '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', \
'\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00', '\x00' ] ]
</pre>

The key lines in each file are <code>wingCfg</code>, which defines the layout, and <code>solCfg</code>, which sets the default values for each solenoid if a ''Solenoid'' wing is used on the ''Processor''. <code>InpCfg</code> and the rest of the file are the same for each config.

<code>wingCfg</code> lists each wing type in order of wing position from 0 to 3. <code>solCfg</code> has three parameters per coil - the type of solenoid (USE_SWITCH, AUTO_CLR, ON_OFF_SOL, or DLY_KICK_SOL), initial kick time in milliseconds ("\x20" equals 32ms), and the last is the PWM duty cycle. "\x00" disables PWM. All values are in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexadecimal hexadecimal] notation.

For a detailed explanation of what each value means, you can reference the documentation for the serial protocol (<code>opp/Docs/brdIntf.pdf</code>) in the SVN repo, as well as see the definitions for each value in the <code>opp/Python/Gen2Test/rs232Intf.py</code> script.

However, any of the above examples, or the included <code>mdCfg</code> file, will work as-is without needing a deep understanding of the firmware internals.

==== Check Processor Configurations ====

From the command line, change into the <code>opp/Python/Gen2Test</code> directory.

Plug in the ''Processor'' with the USB jumpers installed and run the command (with either <code>C:\Python27\Python.exe</code> or just <code>python</code> depending on your system):

<code>Gen2Test.py -port=[serial-device]</code>

Where the <code>serial-device</code> is the appropriate serial port on the host computer saved from earlier. The command should provide an inventory of the ''Wings'' as set by the firmware when it was uploaded. The default is all wings set to ''Switch''.

<pre>
% python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411
Sending inventory cmd
Found 1 Gen2 brds.
Addr = ['0x20']
0x20 WingCfg = 0x02020202
0x20 INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING
</pre>

If there are additional processors in the chain, it will display the configuration for all attached processors.

==== Erase Wing Configuration ====

To erase the existing config, run the command with the '''eraseCfg''' option:

<pre>
% python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411 -eraseCfg
Sending inventory cmd
Found 1 Gen2 brds.
Addr = ['0x20']
0x20 WingCfg = 0x02020202
0x20 INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING
Sent erase cfg command.
</pre>

==== Save Wing Configuration ====

To save a new config, run the command with the '''saveCfg''' option and specify the config file with the '''loadCfg''' command.

<pre>
% python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411 -saveCfg -loadCfg=2sol2switch.py
Sending inventory cmd
Found 1 Gen2 brds.
Addr = ['0x20']
0x20 WingCfg = 0x02020202
0x20 INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING
loadFileName = 2sol2switch
Sending wing cfg.
Sending input cfg.
Sending solenoid cfg.
Skipping sending color table.
Sending save cfg command.
Done save cfg command.
</pre>

Run Gen2Test again with just the port parameter to check the new configuration.

<pre>
% python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411
Sending inventory cmd
Found 1 Gen2 brds.
Addr = ['0x20']
0x20 WingCfg = 0x01010202
0x20 SOL_WING SOL_WING INP_WING INP_WING
</pre>

This configuration will persist between power cycles, so once this step is complete, Gen2Test will not be needed again except to test the connection between the host computer and the '''OPP''' boards. To perform that test, unplug and plug-in the ''Processor'' and run Gen2Test again to confirm the configuration is saved as above.

==== Upgrade Firmware ====

If you are at firmware revision ''0.2.0.1'' or higher, the following command should work to upgrade a whole chain of processors:

<code>python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411 -upgrade</code>

It checks to see if all the cards have firmware version 0.2.0.1 or higher. At that point, it goes to the <code>OPP/Creator/Gen2Images</code> folder and looks for the newest version in that directory. Note that the files must end with the <code>.cvacd</code> extension.

It then upgrades each of the cards in turn, starting with the first card, ending with the last card in the chain. This process replaces the cumbersome single processor method for lower firmware revisions.

==== Display Switch Inputs ====

To debug switch inputs, you can run <code>Gen2Test</code> with the following command:

<code>python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411 -test=1 -card=0</code>

The '''test=1''' command reads the inputs from the card, and displays them on the screen as a single continuously updated line.

'''card=0''' tells the test to display the inputs for the first card in the chain. This even works with switch matrices, so it gives you the direct inputs and the 64 switch matrix inputs. It can only do a single card at a time because it continuously overwrites the line.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Once each individual board is configured, the next step is to create the serial connection between boards by chaining them together via multiple 8-wire ribbon cables.

==== Serial Cables ====

The serial cables consist of standard 8-wire '''ribbon cable''' - usually a light grey or sometimes in rainbow colors - with '''FC-8P''' connectors on each end. These are '''IDC''' connectors, which is an acronym for ''Insulation Displacement Contact''. IDC connectors ''displace'' the insulation on a wire to make a connection.

[[Image:fc-8p.jpg]]

You place the wire flat inside the connector and compress the cover (using pliers or similar) to cut into the insulation and connect the wires. The cover locks and all 8 pins should now be connected. The ends can be trimmed with a side cutter or X-Acto knife. The connector should include a cap, used for extra support for the cable, under which the wire is bent prior to crimping.

Each FC-8P connector will have a positioning tab on the housing, and it is recommended to have the tab facing down towards the cable on one end and facing out on the other, so the tab is the same direction at the top and bottom. It isn't critical but it makes it easier to install cables knowing the tab always faces the same direction.

The finished cable should look similar to this example.

[[Image:ribbon-cable.png]]

==== First Processor ====

The first board in the chain connects to the host controller via USB, and uses the integrated USB-to-Serial interface to connect to the ''Interface'' board via a 4-wire cable that must be constructed. This cable consists of two '''Molex 2.54mm''' housings and pins, which are part of the '''BoM''' for the ''Interface'' wing.

It connects 5V and Ground to power the other boards in the chain, as well as the TX and RX serial lines used for communicating between ''Processors''.

If you are not familiar with crimping Molex connectors, you can read a [http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/#good detailed tutorial] on the [http://www.pinrepair.com PinRepair] site that covers proper connection crimping prior to constructing the cable.

Once both the 4-wire and ribbon cables are done, they can be connected to the ''Processor'' per the following diagram:

[[Image:first-processor.png]]

The ''Interface'' wing has two 2 x 4 2.54mm connectors labelled '''IN''' and '''OUT'''. The ribbon cable is connected to the '''OUT''' with the ribbon running down from the wing.

==== Middle Processor ====

The ribbon cable from the first board connects to the '''IN''' connector on the ''Interface'' wing of the middle ''Processor'' with the ribbon facing up, and another ribbon cable is connected to the '''OUT''' connector to lead to the next ''Processor''. This is repeated for each additional ''Processor'' in the chain until the last one, so you will need multiple ribbon cables.

[[Image:middle-processor.png]]

==== Last Processor ====

On the last ''Processor'' in the Serial Chain, the ribbon cable from the previous ''Processor'' is attached to the '''IN''' connector and a '''Jumper''' is placed between '''Pins 3-4''' on the '''OUT''' connector, or the top right two pins, to ''terminate'' the chain by looping the serial connection together.

Without the jumper, the serial connection chain will not work and any commands will fail.

[[Image:last-processor.png]]

==== Testing the Chain ====

With the first ''Processor'' plugged into USB, all ''Processors'' should light up if wired correctly. If not, check the ribbon cables for correct orientation. Plugging them in backwards will not damage the boards but it will prevent them from getting power.

Note on this example of a two board chain, the yellow LEDs are lit on both boards, indicating a successful connection:

[[Image:chained-processors.jpg]]

Running <code>Gen2Test</code> with only the port parameter should generate an inventory of all cards:

<pre>
% python Gen2Test.py -port=/dev/cu.usbmodem1411
Sending inventory cmd
Found 2 Gen2 brds.
Addr = ['0x20', '0x21']
0x20 WingCfg = 0x01010202
0x20 SOL_WING SOL_WING INP_WING INP_WING
0x21 WingCfg = 0x02020202
0x21 INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING INP_WING
</pre>

== Wiring Examples ==

At this point the controller boards are ready to be installed in the game and wired up to all solenoids, lamps and switches.

'''Important Note''': When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, coils and lamps/LEDs, it is ''critical'' to '''connect all grounds together at the power supplies''' to avoid a potential '''floating ground''' issue that can easily destroy your OPP boards.

[[Image:connected-boards.jpg]]

==== Solenoids ====

Solenoids are wired with positive voltage from the high voltage power supply (24V to 70V depending on your game) and the other lug to the ''Solenoid'' wing via the 2x6 Molex connector. When the MOSFET is triggered, it connects ground for that solenoid and it activates.

'''NOTE:''' a '''4004 or similar''' diode must be placed across the positive and ground connections with the band towards the positive wire. This allows for the flyback voltage that is generated when a coil's magnetic field collapses. Without it, that voltage travels back to the ''Solenoid'' wing and will likely destroy the MOSFETs, so it is '''critical''' that the diode be in place.

Direct switches are connected via the 1x4 Molex connector and wired to the Logic (5V) ground.

[[Image:solenoid-wiring.png]]

==== Incandescent Lamps ====

Lamps are wired with positive voltage from the 6.3V power supply and connected to an ''Incandescent'' wing via the 1x8 Molex connector. The ground for the lamps is provided by the 1x2 Molex connector, which should be connected to the 6.3V power supply ground.

[[Image:lamp-wiring.png]]

==== Switches ====

Switches are wired with ground from the logic (5V) power supply and connected to the ''Switch'' wing (directly to the ''Processor'') via the 1x8 Molex connector. Power is provided via the ''Interface'' card from the USB connection.

[[Image:switch-wiring.png]]

==Arduino and OPP ==

Although designed specifically to be used with the Cyruss processors boards, the wings can be driven by alternative microcontrollers, such as ''Arduino'' and others.

==== Connecting a Coil Wing to an Arduino ====

The +5V and +12V pins near R4 are unused for the basic operation of the MOSFETs. Only the ground pin near R4 is required. This should be connected to the ground coming from the +5V logic power source. It would also work to connect this directly to a ground pin on the ''Arduino''. If this pin is not grounded correctly or has an intermittent connection, you will see random MOSFET firing.

Connect pins 4 - 7 to an ''Arduino'' pin configured for ''output'' and drive them ''high'' (+5V with the standard MOSFETs) to activate a solenoid.

The '''Auto Fire''' pin header is not used directly by the boards. It is simply a pass thru to pins 0 - 3. You can leave the 4 pin header off for most purposes. One possible use is to flip the header around and use it to make a more secure connection to the ground pin mentioned previously.

==== Driving Coils from the Arduino Software ====

The ''Arduino'' '''digitalWrite''' command is quite slow, due to some error checking that is done in the background. This may introduce lag into the solenoid firing. A discussion of the problem, and how it can be remedied, can be found [http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-is-Slow-and-how-to-fix-it/ here].

==== Connecting a Coil Wing to MPF ====
See the [http://docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/hardware/opp/index.html MPF Documentation about OPP] for details.

== Troubleshooting ==

If after assembling the boards and testing the connections they do not work, see below for some suggestions on next steps.

==== Python Errors ====

<code>IndexError: string index out of range</code>

This error means that the serial communication failed and no results were returned.

* Has the firmware been installed?
* Has the ''Processor'' been correctly configured for the wings that are installed?
* Is the yellow power LED on when plugged into USB?
* Are you using the correct serial port? Note that on Raspberry Pi PCs that the default driver for the Cypress processors needs to be disabled in <code>/etc/modprobe.d</code>. See the [[#Firmware|Firmware]] section for details.

If the answers to the above questions are ''Yes'', then the issue may be hardware related.

<code>ImportError: No module named serial</code>

This error is generated when you do not have the '''pyserial''' module installed on your host PC. It can be installed via <code>pip install pyserial</code>.

Download page for pyserial for Windows and other OSes: [https://pypi.python.org/pypi/pyserial https://pypi.python.org/pypi/pyserial]

==== Hardware Checklist ====

More often than not, due to having to self-assemble the boards, assembly errors can cause issues. Here is a checklist of possible reasons why a ''Processor'' may not respond to commands.

* Check 5V at multiple points: Interface wing, USB-to-Serial interface, bottom of Cypress board
* Check ground connections are correct and solid with no breaks in the solder
* Use a multimeter to confirm RX/TX lines are cut
* When testing a single board, confirm both RX and TX lines are correctly jumpered on USB-to-Serial interface
* When testing multiple boards, confirm all cables are correctly oriented
* When testing multiple boards, confirm last board is correctly terminated with a jumper on pins 3-4 of OUT connector

==== Contact OPP Support ====

If a reason for the failure cannot be found, the maintainer of the Open Pinball Project offers support via email at:

[[Image:opp_email.png]]

The maintainer is extremely responsive to questions and can often help find the issue with your setup. However, remember that OPP is run by volunteers, so they may not respond immediately to requests for help.

Custom Games

2021-10-25T15:01:53Z

Jwilson:

Information about building your own pinball machine wouldn't be complete without some examples of projects created by home hobbyists.

<font size="4">

* [[Angry Birds]]
* [[Bill Paxton]]
* [[Bioshock]]
* [[Blue October]]
* [[Buffy Vampire Slayer]]
* [[Coconut Island Pinball]]
* [[Cuphead]]
* [[DeadPin]]
*[[Duck Hunt]]
* [[Evil Dead]]
* [[Ferrari]]
* [[Futurama]]
* [[Game of Thrones]]
* [[Ghost in the shell]]
* [[Ghostbusters]]
* [[Godzilla]]
*[[Goonies]]
* [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-cruise-new-pinball2000-kit Haunted Cruise]
*[[Hitchhikers Guide]]
* [[Hot Rod]]
* [[Indiana Jones (Stern & Williams)]]
* [[Iron Maiden]]
* [[Kugler Family]]
* [[Lost]]
* [[Metallica (earthshaker retheme)]]
* [[The Nightmare Before Christmas]]
* [[Ramones]]
* [[Rhett & Link]]
* [[Rush]]
* [[SharpeShooter III]]
* [[Slayer]]
* [[Sonic]]
* [[Skyrim]]
* [[Spaceballs]]
* [[Three Stooges]]
* [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-software-rewrite-the-journey Whirlwind]
* [[Van Halen]]
* [[Wrath of Olympus]]
* [http://www.linscustompins.com/?page_id=28 Tail of the Dragon]

</font>

Main Page

2021-07-16T20:18:29Z

Jwilson:

<center>
[[Image:header.png]]

<h2>'''Build your own Pinball Machine'''</h2>

Thanks to advances in home-based computer-aided design, CNC routers, laser cutters and 3D printers, it's easier than ever for the home hobbyist to work in a garage workshop, from just an idea to a fully finished, professional quality pinball machine.

This wiki is not meant to be a static list of resources - anyone is welcome to edit or add information or articles on any subject relating to home brew pinball. You are only asked to sign up for an account to edit.

Click on any of the topics below to go to that specific section.

----
<h2>'''[[Basics|The Basics]]'''</h2>
Click above to get a rundown of the basic components that go into a pinball machine and how they are connected.
----
<h2>'''[[CobraPin|CobraPin Controller]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[CobraPin#Overview|Overview]] | [[CobraPin#Wiring|Wiring]] | [[CobraPin#Troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[OPP|Open Pinball Project]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[OPP#Hardware|Hardware]] | [[OPP#Getting_Blank_Boards|Getting Boards]] | [[OPP#Assembly|Assembly]] | [[OPP#Firmware|Programming]]</h3>
<h3>[[OPP#Wiring_Examples|Wiring]] | [[OPP#Troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[P3-ROC|P3-ROC Custom Pinball Controller]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[P-ROC_Main_Page|P-ROC (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller)]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[P-ROC_functionality|How It Works]] | [[Driver_Board_functionality|How the Driver Boards Work]]</h3>
<h3> [[P-ROC_hardware_installation| Installation]] | [[Controlling_Coils|Controlling Coils]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Fast|FAST Controller]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Design]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Design#Pinball_Basics|Basics]] | [[Design#Design_Software|Software]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Construction]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Construction#Tools|Tools]] | [[Construction#Materials|Materials]] | [[Construction#Whitewood|Whitewood]] | [[Construction#Cabinet|Cabinet]] | [[Construction#Electronics|Electronics]]</h3>
<h3>[[Construction#Wiring|Wiring]] | [[Construction#Displays|Displays]] | [[Construction#Lighting|Lighting]] | [[Construction#Custom_Parts|Custom Parts]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Artwork]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Artwork#Style|Style]] | [[Artwork#Design|Design]] | [[Artwork#Printing|Printing]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Programming]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[SkeletonGame]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Custom Games]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Vendor List]]''' | '''[[Files Section]]'''</h2>

Like the Logo? [http://skreened.com/pinballmakers/ Buy a T-Shirt!]
</center>
__NOTOC__

Files Section

2021-01-06T18:15:28Z

Jwilson: /* Cabinet */

== Notice ==

Files located in this section are provided by Pinball Makers users and are not tested and/or confirmed to be accurate, so use them at your own risk.

If you are aware of any specific files being inaccurate or broken, please contact the administrators.

== Parts Lists ==

Molex KK Series connectors parts list: [[Media:molex-connectors.pdf]]

== Diagrams ==

Drawings and other diagrams with dimensions not in CAD format.

=== Cabinet ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:wpc-backbox-1.png|200px]]
|WPC Backbox (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-backbox-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-1.png|200px]]
|WPC full cabinet cut guide for 4" x 8" plywood
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-2.png|200px]]
|WPC Main cabinet side and back (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-2.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-3.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-3.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-4.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front for multiple ball launchers (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-4.png]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Upper 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper 3-6-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Head PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Lower PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower.pdf]]
|}

=== Playfield ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:williams-lower-playfield.png|200px]]
|WPC lower playfield dimensions (millimeter)
|[[Media:williams-lower-playfield.png]]
|-
|[[Image:williams-early-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early Solid State lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Williams_early_SS_c_size.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:stern-lower-pf.jpg|200px]]
|Stern lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Stern_c_size.pdf]]
|}

=== Devices ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough-diagram.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough (6-Ball)
|[[Media:6balltrough.ai]]
|}

== Schematics ==

Files for EagleCAD or general electronic schematics.

=== Original Equipment ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:gottlieb-system-3-image.png|200px]]
|Gottlieb System 3 Driver Board
|[[Media:gottlieb-system-3.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-sw.png|200px]]
|WPC Switch Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-sw.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-lamp.png|200px]]
|WPC Lamp Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-lamp.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-solenoid.png|200px]]
|WPC Solenoid design
|[[Media:wpc-solenoid.pdf]]
|}

== 2D CAD Drawings ==

For use in AutoCAD or DraftSight when doing playfield layout.

=== Playfields ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Williams_playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield
|[[Media:Williams_playfield.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:Williams_Playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield for Sketchup
|[[Media:Williams_Blank_Playfield.skp]]
|-
|[[Image:bally-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Bally SS Blank Playfield
|[[Media:bally-blank.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:Stern_playfield-3d.png|200px]]
|Stern Modern Playfield
|[[Media:Stern_playfield.zip]]
|-
|}

=== Ball Guides ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-inlane-guide.png|200px]]
|Ball Inlane Guide
|[[Media:Ball Inlane Guide (left) - 550-5037-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-lane-guide-top.png|200px]]
|Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided (03-7034) and Star Posts (03-8319) w/5-16 in rubber
|[[Media:Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided - 03-7034 - and Star Posts - 03-8319 w 5-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-1-7-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 1 7/8" (530-5005-00) with 7/16" OD Mini Post Rubber (23-6694-1)
|[[Media:Metal Post 1 7-8 in tall 530-5005-00 w 7-16 in OD Mini Post Rubber 23-6694-1.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-2-1-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 2 1/8" (530-5332-01) with Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1/16"
|[[Media:Metal Post 2 1-8 in tall 530-5332-01 w Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1-16 in.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:plastic-post.png|200px]]
|Narrow Plastic Post (03-8365) with 3/16" rubber
|[[Media:Narrow Plastic Post 03-8365 w 3-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spade-bolt.png|200px]]
|Spade Bolt (Offset)
|[[Media:Spade Bolt (Offset).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:star-post.png|200px]]
|Star Post (03-8319)
|[[Media:Star Post - 03-8319.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:shooter-lane.jpg|200px]]
|Shooter Lane Insert
|[[Media:shooter-lane.dwg]]
|}

=== Coil Assemblies ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-launcher.png|200px]]
|Ball Launcher (500-5477-01)
|[[Media:Ball Launcher 500-5477-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball (500-6119-14) and Enter Exit Scoop (535-7329-01)
|[[Media:Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball 500-6119-14 Enter Exit Scoop 535-7329-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-left.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/left mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Left).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-right.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/right mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Right).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-1.png|200px]]
|Magnet Bracket (A-15257) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Magnet Bracket A-15257 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-2.png|200px]]
|Threaded Core Weld Assembly (515-6141-01) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Threaded Core Weld Assembly 515-6141-01 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper.png|200px]]
|Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally
|[[Media:Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:slingshot-assembly.png|200px]]
|Slingshot Assembly (500-5849-00)
|[[Media:Slingshot Assembly - 500-5849-00.dwg]]
|}

=== Inserts ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Arrow
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Arrow.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Rectangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Rectangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-ro.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-t.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Triangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Triangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-5-8.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 5/8" Oval
|[[Media:Insert_1_5-8_in_Oval.dwg]]
|-
|}

=== Lights ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:socket-l.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Long (077-5005-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Long 077-5005-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-1.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5002-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5002-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-2.png|200px]]
|89 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5101-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5101-00.dwg]]
|}
=== Switches ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Switch and Bracket (A-12688)
|[[Media:Rollover Switch and Bracket A-12688.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spinner-assembly.png|200px]]
|Spinner Assembly (A-21801-2)
|[[Media:Spinner Assembly A-21801-2.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4)
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-2.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 2
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 2).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-3.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 3
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 3).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:5-target-bank.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Bank of 5
|[[Media:Drop Target Bank of 5.dwg]]
|}

== 3D templates ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:p3-mount-lr.png|200px]]
|General P3-ROC Mounting Brackets - L/R (Coleman Martin)
|[[File:p3-mount-left.stl]] / [[File:p3-mount-right.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:cssc-spacer.png|200px]]
|Computer Startup Shutdown Controller Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:cssc-spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:p3roc-spacer.png|200px]]
|P3-ROC Mounting Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:p3rocspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sw16-spacer.png|200px]]
|SW16 Mounting Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:sw16spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd16-spacer.png|200px]]
|PD16 Mounting Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:pd16spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd-led-spacer.png|200px]]
|PD-LED Mounting Bracket - Horizontal (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:pd-ledspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd16-v-spacer.png|200px]]
||PD-LED Mounting Bracket - Vertical (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:pd-led-vspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template
|[[File:pop-bumper-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template-center.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template Center Holes
|[[File:pop-bumper-template-center.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template
|[[File:slingshot-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template-center.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template Center Holes
|[[File:sling-template-center.stl]]
|}

== Off the shelf parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.png|200px]]
|555 Lamp Socket 077-5030-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Staple Down F1P-E-12-07-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield F1P-E-12-06-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (Bally E-120-81)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.PNG|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Flush (Bally E-120-99)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Bally E-120-162)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Possibly Bally E-120-84)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket A-8798.png|200px]]
|89 Lamp Socket A-8798
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket A-8798.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Led bulb.jpg|200px]]
|LED bulb
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Led bulb.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:WPC Trough.png|200px]]
|WPC Trough Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Trough.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SHooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.png|200px]]
|Shooter lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Shooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Pop Bumper ASSY B-9414.png|200px]]
|WPC Pop Bumper Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Pop Bumper Assy B-9414.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target Sys11.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS11
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 bank Sys11 Drop Target Bank.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.png|200px]]
|5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 03-8033.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Wedge Top
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 03-8033.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.png|200px]]
|Kicker Arm Slingshot Assembly B-12665
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Kickout Hole SYS7.png|200px]]
|Kickout Hole Sys 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kickout Hole SYS7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Switch Rollover - Sys7.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Switch Sys7
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Switch Rollover - Sys7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover Lane Switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Microswitch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover Lane Switch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 002 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 002
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 002 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 003 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 003
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 003 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 004 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 004
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 004 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 005 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 005
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 005 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post PL-00172-OT.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1" - PL-00172-OT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post PL-00172-OT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-1/16"" - 03-8319-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-3/16"" - 03-8370-10
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/2" 03-8130-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post .png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/16" 03-8247-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20 .png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1" C-11561-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1-3/16" C-11562-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4 .png|200px]]
|Post 1" Concentric Fin C-951-4
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7 .png|200px]]
|Post 1-1/8" Concentric Fin C-952-7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02 .png|200px]]
|Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056 .png|200px]]
|Bumper Post 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at Top 02-4056
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 8-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 10-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.png|200px]]
|Post-Dual Ring 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at top 02-4423
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0001.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-5/8"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0001.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0002.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-1/2"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0002.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rubber Post Cap.png|200px]]
|Rubber Post Cap
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rubber Post Cap.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.png|200px]]
|1" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/16" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.png|200px]]
|5/8" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.png|200px]]
|3/4" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.png|200px]]
|3/4" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.png|200px]]
|1" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-1/2" Rectangular Insert - "Grid" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-5/8" Oval Insert
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.png|200px]]
|1-3/6"" Triangular Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/4 x 3/4"" Diamond Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-112TGT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.png|200px]]
|2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-T2RT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.png|200px]]
|2-1/2" Arrow Insert - 03-8359-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lightning_insert.jpg|200px]]
|Lightning Insert - PI-3-LO
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Lightning_insert.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover C-901.png|200px]]
|Rollover Insert C-901
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover C-9901.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide 03-8318-25
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.ZIP]]
|-
|[[Image:Stern-spinner-511-5113-00.jpg|200px]]
|Stern Spinner 511-5113-00
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Stern-511-5113-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Gate Assy 0001.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly -
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Gate Assy 0001.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Assembly WPC.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly WPC (coil is incorrect)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Assembly WPC.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 2inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 2 Inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 2inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 3inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 3 inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 3inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:03-7568 flipper bushing.jpg|200px]]
|Bally / Williams Bushing
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:03-7568 flipper bushing SW.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Opto Base MTG.png|200px]]
|Opto Base Mounting
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Opto Base MTG.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:PF Test1.PNG|200px]]
|Test PF shooter lane cut
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Test PF 1.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_williams_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Inlane
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane_williams_plastic.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_de-sega-stern_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Data East / SEGA / Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane DE-sega-stern.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Apron_stern.jpg|200px]]
| Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Apron stern.SLDPRT]]
|}

== Non Standard Parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Wireform bracket.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable wireform bracket to be used with any 1/8" round material (ABS, steel, polyethylene tubing, etc)
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Wireform bracket.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Loop_da_loop_ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable loop da loop ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Loop_da_loop_ramp.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Vertical loop ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable vertical loopback ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Vertical loop ramp.SLDPRT]]
|}

SkeletonGame

2020-02-21T18:45:44Z

Jwilson:

== Programming Reference ==

This is meant to be a reference for commands, and simple snippets eventually. For setup and getting started with sample files start at the main SkeletonGame [http://skeletongame.com/ website].

=== Machine Config YAML ===
This is where you define your attached hardware sorted by board.

==== PD-16 (coil-driver board) ====
Define coils or flashers on the PD board using the <code>Ax-By-z</code> format.

''x'' is the '''Board ID''' (0-16) and must not conflict with any other ''PD-LED'' or ''PD-16''
<br>
''y'' is the '''Bank''' on board. So, '''Bank A''' is 0, '''Bank B''' is 1
<br>
''z'' is the '''Switch ID''' on the bank (0-7). Pin 1 is '''Switch ID 0'''

Custom <code>tags</code> can also be used. See Advanced section.

An example of coil configuration:

trough:
number: A0-B0-3
pulseTime: 30 # the duration of the pulse, in ms. Default is 32ms
plunger:
number: A0-B0-4
tags: autoPlunger
pulseTime: 30 #pulsetime is optional

==== SW-16 (switch input board) ====

Switches can be ''Optos'' or ''Standard''. Certain names are reserved for special cases, like
<code>trough1</code>. There must be numbers at end for each ball. Some examples of reserved names:

troughJam
shooter
startbutton
tilt
exit
down
up
enter

Switch example:

PRSwitches:
# **** Format ****
# name:
# number: <number>
# type: <type>
#
# <number> SW-16 board ID multiplied by 16 plus switch number. ID-0 bank-A Switch-0 is "0". The second bank adds 8 or range is switch 8-15
# <type> can be: 'NO' (normally open. This is the default; so no need to use this)
# 'NC' (normally closed. Common for optos)
flipperLwL:
number: 8
ballsearch: stop
throughJam:
number: 37 #21
type: NC
ballsearch: reset
tags: troughJam,tilt_visible #advanced see yaml tags below
StandUpRight:
number: 41 #25
ballsearch: reset
tags: anyswitch

==== PD-LED ====

LEDs can be single color or RGB.

Example:

#################################################################
# LED numbering format: Ax-Rr-Gg-Bb
# x = PD-LED board address
# r = LED output number connected to the red input of an LED
# g = LED output number connected to the green input of an LED
# b = LED output number connected to the blue input of an LED
#################################################################
bonus01:
number: A3-R0-G1-B2
polarity: False
tags: bonusMatrixLED
label: '001 Bonus 1k'
startButton:
number: A3-R83
polarity: False

== Coils ==
Code examples for using coils.

<code>self.game.coils.''coilname''.enable()</code>: Enable coil. Turn on full power, useful for lamps. '''Warning!''' this setting can fry coils.
<br>
<code>self.game.coils.''coilname''.disable()</code>: Disable coil.
<br>
<code>self.game.coils.''coilname''.pulse()</code>: Pulses coil with either default pulse or defined pulse in config YAML.
<br>
<code>self.game.coils.''coilname''.schedule(schedule=0x80808080, cycle_seconds=0, now=True)</code>: Activates coil driver on an ''on/off'' pattern an allows for custom patterns. Parameters include '''schedule''', an 8 digit pattern based on intensity (1-F), ''''cycle_seconds''' and '''now''' (True/False) - assume start time?

== Advanced ==
Code snippets for common things every program will use, and advanced concepts that are easy to master.

Custom Switch tags:
Yaml changes;
Code changes; Init/ use.

Main Page

2020-02-21T18:19:00Z

Jwilson:

<center>
[[Image:header.png]]

<h2>'''Build your own Pinball Machine'''</h2>

Thanks to advances in home-based computer-aided design, CNC routers, laser cutters and 3D printers, it's easier than ever for the home hobbyist to work in a garage workshop, from just an idea to a fully finished, professional quality pinball machine.

This wiki is not meant to be a static list of resources - anyone is welcome to edit or add information or articles on any subject relating to home brew pinball. You are only asked to sign up for an account to edit.

Click on any of the topics below to go to that specific section.

----
<h2>'''[[Basics|The Basics]]'''</h2>
Click above to get a rundown of the basic components that go into a pinball machine and how they are connected.
----
<h2>'''[[OPP|Open Pinball Project]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[OPP#Hardware|Hardware]] | [[OPP#Getting_Blank_Boards|Getting Boards]] | [[OPP#Assembly|Assembly]] | [[OPP#Firmware|Programming]]</h3>
<h3>[[OPP#Wiring_Examples|Wiring]] | [[OPP#Troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[P3-ROC|P3-ROC Custom Pinball Controller]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[P-ROC_Main_Page|P-ROC (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller)]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[P-ROC_functionality|How It Works]] | [[Driver_Board_functionality|How the Driver Boards Work]]</h3>
<h3> [[P-ROC_hardware_installation| Installation]] | [[Controlling_Coils|Controlling Coils]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Fast|FAST Controller]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Design]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Design#Pinball_Basics|Basics]] | [[Design#Design_Software|Software]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Construction]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Construction#Tools|Tools]] | [[Construction#Materials|Materials]] | [[Construction#Whitewood|Whitewood]] | [[Construction#Cabinet|Cabinet]] | [[Construction#Electronics|Electronics]]</h3>
<h3>[[Construction#Wiring|Wiring]] | [[Construction#Displays|Displays]] | [[Construction#Lighting|Lighting]] | [[Construction#Custom_Parts|Custom Parts]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Artwork]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Artwork#Style|Style]] | [[Artwork#Design|Design]] | [[Artwork#Printing|Printing]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Programming]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[SkeletonGame]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Custom Games]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Vendor List]]''' | '''[[Files Section]]'''</h2>

Like the Logo? [http://skreened.com/pinballmakers/ Buy a T-Shirt!]
</center>
__NOTOC__

P3-ROC

2018-12-10T21:10:26Z

Jwilson: /* DIP Switches */

The '''P3-ROC''' is the next evolution of the [https://www.multimorphic.com/ Multimorphic] line of pinball controllers. Designed for use in their '''P3''' modular system, it is well suited to custom game construction thanks to that very same modularity.

== Hardware ==

The '''P3-ROC''' hardware consists of five main boards:

* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/ P3-ROC]''' is the main controller device which plugs into a PC via USB and allows the PC to communicate with the various input/output boards.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-16/ PD-16]''' allows control of up to 16 solenoids or other high voltage devices.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/sw-16/ SW-16]''' supports up to 16 switch inputs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-led/ PD-LED]''' allows control of up to 84 single LEDs or up to 2048 serial LEDs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry]''' provides a simple and safe way to connect power between multiple power supplies and game devices.

Additionally, they provide a number of support devices such as long range optos, RGB LED boards and audio amps.

[[Image:P3-roc-boards.jpg|Conversion of an EM game using P3-ROC]]

''From top left moving clockwise: SW-16, 8x8 (deprecated matrix controller for lamps), PD-16, Power Entry, P3-ROC and RPi3 as controller PC''

=== P3-ROC Controller Board ===
At the heart of the system is the '''P3-ROC''' ''Controller Board''. All other boards communicate through it and it handles all the signalling needed, relieving the PC to handle game rules instead of switch matrix scanning, pulse-width modulation of coils, and other low-level device support.

[[Image:P3-ROC.png|P3-ROC board]]

Although it appears complicated due to the number of connectors on the board, the majority of the .100" headers are to support the P3 long-range optos and are not relevant to most custom game makers.

The theory of operation, dip switches and what the LEDs mean is explained in the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation] but the key connections are:

* '''J1''': Power input (5V) using a standard PC power supply connector
* '''J2''': Power input (5V) using standard pinball-style .156" Molex connector
* '''J11''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J12''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J13''': USB connector to computer
* '''J14''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J15''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J17''': I2C Serial connector (.100" Molex)

==== Serial Interface ====
The '''P3-ROC''' uses the '''RS-485''' serial protocol to communicate to the attached boards. Designed for high EM environments, it has excellent error correction and robust signalling and is well suited for the ''noisy'' world under a pinball playfield.

Note that the ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' serial connectors have different pinouts, to help avoid mixing up connectors when assembling wiring.

There are a total of '''four''' serial connectors - two for switches (''SW-16'') and two for drivers (''PD-16'' and ''PD-LED''). This allows for chains to easily extend to the backbox and playfield, or playfield and cabinet.

=== PD-16 Driver Board ===
For controlling solenoids and other high current devices there is the '''PD-16''' Driver board.

[[Image:PD-16.png|PD-16 Driver Board]]

It uses '''16 MOSFETs''' in a ''ground-sink'' configuration - high power devices are connected directly to the positive voltage, then connected to the ''PD-16'' which activates the device by connecting it to ground. It is divided into two banks of 8, with ''in-rush'' diodes on all inputs to protect the board, so diodes are not required on solenoids.

From the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connections (all .156" Molex unless specified) are:

* '''J1''': 5V input
* '''J3''': Bank A High Power Out
* '''J4''': Bank B High Power Out
* '''J5''': Bank A High Power In
* '''J6''': Bank B High Power In
* '''J7''': Bank A Input (ground)
* '''J9''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J10''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J11''': Bank B Input (ground)

==== Power Connections ====
High power ('''24V - 70V''') is connected directly to the ''PD-16'', which is fused, then output from the board to the high power devices, or to additional ''PD-16s''. In addition, '''5V''' is required to run the onboard logic and serial communications.

=== SW-16 Switch Board ===

For reading individual switches, the '''SW-16''' switch board is used.

[[Image:SW-16.png|SW-16 Switch Board]]

The ''SW-16'' uses '''12V''' for switches and works opposite of the driver boards - ground is connected to the switches and when closed, completes the circuit on the board. It is divided into two banks of 8. The 12V switch power is stepped down to 5V to handle the on-board logic and serial.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are:

* '''J1''': 12V Power (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Bank A Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J4''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J6''': Bank B Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)

=== PD-LED Light Board ===
Modern pinball machines use LEDs (light emitting diodes) for lighting, and the '''PD-LED''' is designed to drive them.

[[Image:PD-LED.png|PD-LED Light Board]]

The ''PD-LED'' can drive '''84''' individual LEDs using the seven 20-pin connectors on the board. Depending on the LED, power is supplied to the LEDs (resistors may be required depending on the forward voltage of the LED in question) and the cathode leg of the LED is connected to the ''PD-LED'' which grounds it to light. Some LEDs may be common anode so the wiring will be reversed.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/PD-LED-2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are as follows:

* '''J1''': 5V Logic (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J5''': LED 0-11
* '''J6''': LED 24-35
* '''J7''': LED 48-59
* '''J8''': LED 72-83 and Serial LED Control
* '''J9''': LED 12-23
* '''J10''': LED 36-47
* '''J11''': LED 60-71

==== Serial LED Control ====
The ''PD-LED'' can also serially control LED strings via '''J8'''. The board will need to be configured for serial use, and the pins used for serial communications with the LED strings cannot be used for single LEDs, thus reducing the total LED capacity.

===== WS281x =====
Three strings of single wire ''' [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1138 WS281x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 17-19'''. These type of serial LEDs do not have a clock signal so light shows may get out of sync with other events, but they are extremely inexpensive.

* '''J8 Pin 17''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 18''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 19''': Serial Data 0

===== LPD880x =====
Three strings of '''[https://www.adafruit.com/product/306 LPD880x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 7-9''' and '''12-14'''. These style include a clock signal for proper syncing.

* '''J8 Pin 7''': Serial Clock 2
* '''J8 Pin 8''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 9''': Serial Clock 1
* '''J8 Pin 12''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 13''': Serial Clock 0
* '''J8 Pin 14''': Serial Data 0

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built - more switches means more ''SW-16s'', more solenoids means more ''PD-16s'' and so on.

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire a game, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

Three main voltages are required: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''12V''' for switches and '''24V to 70V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for switches. For solenoids, you can use a separate switcher if you also use the '''Power Entry''' board as it has capacitors to handle sudden current demands - otherwise a switching power supply has built-in protection that will switch itself off due to the sudden overload.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Each board is chained to the '''P3-ROC''' via multiple 2-wire cables, and each board has a unique ID set via the on-board DIP switches. Multiple boards are attached to the previous board in a daisy-chain until the chain ends at the '''P3-ROC''' as in the below diagram. The diagram is only an example - any ''driver'' board can be connected to ''driver serial'', so you can put either ''PD-16s'' or ''PD-LEDs'' on the ''driver serial'' in any order.

[[Image:serial-diagram.png|Serial Connections]]

==== Serial Cables ====
Although almost any wire over 28AWG will do to make the serial cables, It is recommended to twist the wires in a pair to help cut down on electrical interference. This can be done by hand, or by placing the ends of the wire in a drill and spinning it. Another popular option is to re-purpose inexpensive CAT5 ethernet wires as they come pre-twisted.

Wires are connected '''positive to positive''' and '''negative to negative'''. So, for the ''switch'' cable, '''Pin 2''' (Serial Switch Data +) goes to '''Pin 2''' on the '''SW-16''' and so on.

==== DIP Switches ====
[[Image:DIP.jpg|DIP Switch]]

Each board includes an 8-position DIP switch, which is used to set the ID of the board in question, to terminate a chain of boards (DIP 8), and set some additional settings.

Each board needs a unique ID ''per serial chain'' - ie. you can have two ''Board 0''s as long as they are on different chains. '''DIP 1-6''' sets the ID in '''binary''' notation, starting at zero (All Off). So if you want to set the board ID to 5, you would set DIP 1 and 3 to ''On''. Or if you want to set the board ID to 0, leave all six ''Off''. If the board is the last board in the chain, set DIP 8 to ''On'' as well to terminate the serial chain. Boards connected earlier in the chain should have DIP 8 ''Off''.

[[Image:DIP.png|400px|DIP Switch]]

=== Wiring Examples ===
There are a number of ways to connect the '''P3-ROC''' boards to your machine but the following are some basic configurations to illustrate serial, power and device connections.

'''Important Note:''' When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, solenoids and LEDs, it is '''critical''' to connect all grounds together at the power supplies (or use the '''Power Entry''' board) to avoid a potential floating ground issue that can easily destroy your boards.

==== Serial Wiring ====
Remember to use ''twisted wire'' to help mitigate electrical interference with the serial signal.

[[Image:twisted.png|Twisted Pair]]

For ''Switch'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Ground
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 3
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
|}

For ''Driver'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Serial Driver Data +
|-
| 2
| Serial Driver Data -
|-
| 3
| Ground
|-
|}

In this diagram, it shows the serial connections between the ''P3-ROC'', two ''SW-16''s, a ''PD-LED'' and a ''PD-16''. The ''SW-16s'' are connected to one of the two ''Serial Switch'' connectors while the ''PD-LED'' and ''PD-16'' are connected to one of the two ''Serial Driver'' connectors. Note how the pinouts on ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' are different.

It also shows how the DIP switches are set on each board to ID them, as well as to terminate the chain on the last board (DIP-8). For this example, the boards are numbered '''ID 1''' and '''ID 2''' in each chain, with the last board terminated via '''DIP 8'''.

[[Image:serial-2.png|Serial Example]]

P3-ROC

2018-12-10T21:10:14Z

Jwilson: /* Serial Wiring */

The '''P3-ROC''' is the next evolution of the [https://www.multimorphic.com/ Multimorphic] line of pinball controllers. Designed for use in their '''P3''' modular system, it is well suited to custom game construction thanks to that very same modularity.

== Hardware ==

The '''P3-ROC''' hardware consists of five main boards:

* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/ P3-ROC]''' is the main controller device which plugs into a PC via USB and allows the PC to communicate with the various input/output boards.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-16/ PD-16]''' allows control of up to 16 solenoids or other high voltage devices.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/sw-16/ SW-16]''' supports up to 16 switch inputs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-led/ PD-LED]''' allows control of up to 84 single LEDs or up to 2048 serial LEDs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry]''' provides a simple and safe way to connect power between multiple power supplies and game devices.

Additionally, they provide a number of support devices such as long range optos, RGB LED boards and audio amps.

[[Image:P3-roc-boards.jpg|Conversion of an EM game using P3-ROC]]

''From top left moving clockwise: SW-16, 8x8 (deprecated matrix controller for lamps), PD-16, Power Entry, P3-ROC and RPi3 as controller PC''

=== P3-ROC Controller Board ===
At the heart of the system is the '''P3-ROC''' ''Controller Board''. All other boards communicate through it and it handles all the signalling needed, relieving the PC to handle game rules instead of switch matrix scanning, pulse-width modulation of coils, and other low-level device support.

[[Image:P3-ROC.png|P3-ROC board]]

Although it appears complicated due to the number of connectors on the board, the majority of the .100" headers are to support the P3 long-range optos and are not relevant to most custom game makers.

The theory of operation, dip switches and what the LEDs mean is explained in the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation] but the key connections are:

* '''J1''': Power input (5V) using a standard PC power supply connector
* '''J2''': Power input (5V) using standard pinball-style .156" Molex connector
* '''J11''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J12''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J13''': USB connector to computer
* '''J14''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J15''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J17''': I2C Serial connector (.100" Molex)

==== Serial Interface ====
The '''P3-ROC''' uses the '''RS-485''' serial protocol to communicate to the attached boards. Designed for high EM environments, it has excellent error correction and robust signalling and is well suited for the ''noisy'' world under a pinball playfield.

Note that the ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' serial connectors have different pinouts, to help avoid mixing up connectors when assembling wiring.

There are a total of '''four''' serial connectors - two for switches (''SW-16'') and two for drivers (''PD-16'' and ''PD-LED''). This allows for chains to easily extend to the backbox and playfield, or playfield and cabinet.

=== PD-16 Driver Board ===
For controlling solenoids and other high current devices there is the '''PD-16''' Driver board.

[[Image:PD-16.png|PD-16 Driver Board]]

It uses '''16 MOSFETs''' in a ''ground-sink'' configuration - high power devices are connected directly to the positive voltage, then connected to the ''PD-16'' which activates the device by connecting it to ground. It is divided into two banks of 8, with ''in-rush'' diodes on all inputs to protect the board, so diodes are not required on solenoids.

From the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connections (all .156" Molex unless specified) are:

* '''J1''': 5V input
* '''J3''': Bank A High Power Out
* '''J4''': Bank B High Power Out
* '''J5''': Bank A High Power In
* '''J6''': Bank B High Power In
* '''J7''': Bank A Input (ground)
* '''J9''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J10''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J11''': Bank B Input (ground)

==== Power Connections ====
High power ('''24V - 70V''') is connected directly to the ''PD-16'', which is fused, then output from the board to the high power devices, or to additional ''PD-16s''. In addition, '''5V''' is required to run the onboard logic and serial communications.

=== SW-16 Switch Board ===

For reading individual switches, the '''SW-16''' switch board is used.

[[Image:SW-16.png|SW-16 Switch Board]]

The ''SW-16'' uses '''12V''' for switches and works opposite of the driver boards - ground is connected to the switches and when closed, completes the circuit on the board. It is divided into two banks of 8. The 12V switch power is stepped down to 5V to handle the on-board logic and serial.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are:

* '''J1''': 12V Power (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Bank A Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J4''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J6''': Bank B Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)

=== PD-LED Light Board ===
Modern pinball machines use LEDs (light emitting diodes) for lighting, and the '''PD-LED''' is designed to drive them.

[[Image:PD-LED.png|PD-LED Light Board]]

The ''PD-LED'' can drive '''84''' individual LEDs using the seven 20-pin connectors on the board. Depending on the LED, power is supplied to the LEDs (resistors may be required depending on the forward voltage of the LED in question) and the cathode leg of the LED is connected to the ''PD-LED'' which grounds it to light. Some LEDs may be common anode so the wiring will be reversed.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/PD-LED-2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are as follows:

* '''J1''': 5V Logic (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J5''': LED 0-11
* '''J6''': LED 24-35
* '''J7''': LED 48-59
* '''J8''': LED 72-83 and Serial LED Control
* '''J9''': LED 12-23
* '''J10''': LED 36-47
* '''J11''': LED 60-71

==== Serial LED Control ====
The ''PD-LED'' can also serially control LED strings via '''J8'''. The board will need to be configured for serial use, and the pins used for serial communications with the LED strings cannot be used for single LEDs, thus reducing the total LED capacity.

===== WS281x =====
Three strings of single wire ''' [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1138 WS281x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 17-19'''. These type of serial LEDs do not have a clock signal so light shows may get out of sync with other events, but they are extremely inexpensive.

* '''J8 Pin 17''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 18''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 19''': Serial Data 0

===== LPD880x =====
Three strings of '''[https://www.adafruit.com/product/306 LPD880x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 7-9''' and '''12-14'''. These style include a clock signal for proper syncing.

* '''J8 Pin 7''': Serial Clock 2
* '''J8 Pin 8''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 9''': Serial Clock 1
* '''J8 Pin 12''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 13''': Serial Clock 0
* '''J8 Pin 14''': Serial Data 0

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built - more switches means more ''SW-16s'', more solenoids means more ''PD-16s'' and so on.

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire a game, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

Three main voltages are required: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''12V''' for switches and '''24V to 70V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for switches. For solenoids, you can use a separate switcher if you also use the '''Power Entry''' board as it has capacitors to handle sudden current demands - otherwise a switching power supply has built-in protection that will switch itself off due to the sudden overload.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Each board is chained to the '''P3-ROC''' via multiple 2-wire cables, and each board has a unique ID set via the on-board DIP switches. Multiple boards are attached to the previous board in a daisy-chain until the chain ends at the '''P3-ROC''' as in the below diagram. The diagram is only an example - any ''driver'' board can be connected to ''driver serial'', so you can put either ''PD-16s'' or ''PD-LEDs'' on the ''driver serial'' in any order.

[[Image:serial-diagram.png|Serial Connections]]

==== Serial Cables ====
Although almost any wire over 28AWG will do to make the serial cables, It is recommended to twist the wires in a pair to help cut down on electrical interference. This can be done by hand, or by placing the ends of the wire in a drill and spinning it. Another popular option is to re-purpose inexpensive CAT5 ethernet wires as they come pre-twisted.

Wires are connected '''positive to positive''' and '''negative to negative'''. So, for the ''switch'' cable, '''Pin 2''' (Serial Switch Data +) goes to '''Pin 2''' on the '''SW-16''' and so on.

==== DIP Switches ====
[[Image:DIP.jpg|DIP Switch]]

Each board includes an 8-position DIP switch, which is used to set the ID of the board in question, to terminate a chain of boards (DIP 8), and set some additional settings.

Each board needs a unique ID ''per serial chain'' - ie. you can have two ''Board 0''s as long as they are on different chains. '''DIP 1-6''' sets the ID in '''binary''' notation, starting at zero (All Off). So if you want to set the board ID to 5, you would set DIP 1 and 4 to ''On''. Or if you want to set the board ID to 0, leave all six ''Off''. If the board is the last board in the chain, set DIP 8 to ''On'' as well to terminate the serial chain. Boards connected earlier in the chain should have DIP 8 ''Off''.

[[Image:DIP.png|400px|DIP Switch]]

=== Wiring Examples ===
There are a number of ways to connect the '''P3-ROC''' boards to your machine but the following are some basic configurations to illustrate serial, power and device connections.

'''Important Note:''' When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, solenoids and LEDs, it is '''critical''' to connect all grounds together at the power supplies (or use the '''Power Entry''' board) to avoid a potential floating ground issue that can easily destroy your boards.

==== Serial Wiring ====
Remember to use ''twisted wire'' to help mitigate electrical interference with the serial signal.

[[Image:twisted.png|Twisted Pair]]

For ''Switch'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Ground
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 3
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
|}

For ''Driver'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Serial Driver Data +
|-
| 2
| Serial Driver Data -
|-
| 3
| Ground
|-
|}

In this diagram, it shows the serial connections between the ''P3-ROC'', two ''SW-16''s, a ''PD-LED'' and a ''PD-16''. The ''SW-16s'' are connected to one of the two ''Serial Switch'' connectors while the ''PD-LED'' and ''PD-16'' are connected to one of the two ''Serial Driver'' connectors. Note how the pinouts on ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' are different.

It also shows how the DIP switches are set on each board to ID them, as well as to terminate the chain on the last board (DIP-8). For this example, the boards are numbered '''ID 1''' and '''ID 2''' in each chain, with the last board terminated via '''DIP 8'''.

[[Image:serial-2.png|Serial Example]]

P3-ROC

2018-12-10T21:07:00Z

Jwilson: /* DIP Switches */

The '''P3-ROC''' is the next evolution of the [https://www.multimorphic.com/ Multimorphic] line of pinball controllers. Designed for use in their '''P3''' modular system, it is well suited to custom game construction thanks to that very same modularity.

== Hardware ==

The '''P3-ROC''' hardware consists of five main boards:

* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/ P3-ROC]''' is the main controller device which plugs into a PC via USB and allows the PC to communicate with the various input/output boards.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-16/ PD-16]''' allows control of up to 16 solenoids or other high voltage devices.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/sw-16/ SW-16]''' supports up to 16 switch inputs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-led/ PD-LED]''' allows control of up to 84 single LEDs or up to 2048 serial LEDs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry]''' provides a simple and safe way to connect power between multiple power supplies and game devices.

Additionally, they provide a number of support devices such as long range optos, RGB LED boards and audio amps.

[[Image:P3-roc-boards.jpg|Conversion of an EM game using P3-ROC]]

''From top left moving clockwise: SW-16, 8x8 (deprecated matrix controller for lamps), PD-16, Power Entry, P3-ROC and RPi3 as controller PC''

=== P3-ROC Controller Board ===
At the heart of the system is the '''P3-ROC''' ''Controller Board''. All other boards communicate through it and it handles all the signalling needed, relieving the PC to handle game rules instead of switch matrix scanning, pulse-width modulation of coils, and other low-level device support.

[[Image:P3-ROC.png|P3-ROC board]]

Although it appears complicated due to the number of connectors on the board, the majority of the .100" headers are to support the P3 long-range optos and are not relevant to most custom game makers.

The theory of operation, dip switches and what the LEDs mean is explained in the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation] but the key connections are:

* '''J1''': Power input (5V) using a standard PC power supply connector
* '''J2''': Power input (5V) using standard pinball-style .156" Molex connector
* '''J11''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J12''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J13''': USB connector to computer
* '''J14''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J15''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J17''': I2C Serial connector (.100" Molex)

==== Serial Interface ====
The '''P3-ROC''' uses the '''RS-485''' serial protocol to communicate to the attached boards. Designed for high EM environments, it has excellent error correction and robust signalling and is well suited for the ''noisy'' world under a pinball playfield.

Note that the ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' serial connectors have different pinouts, to help avoid mixing up connectors when assembling wiring.

There are a total of '''four''' serial connectors - two for switches (''SW-16'') and two for drivers (''PD-16'' and ''PD-LED''). This allows for chains to easily extend to the backbox and playfield, or playfield and cabinet.

=== PD-16 Driver Board ===
For controlling solenoids and other high current devices there is the '''PD-16''' Driver board.

[[Image:PD-16.png|PD-16 Driver Board]]

It uses '''16 MOSFETs''' in a ''ground-sink'' configuration - high power devices are connected directly to the positive voltage, then connected to the ''PD-16'' which activates the device by connecting it to ground. It is divided into two banks of 8, with ''in-rush'' diodes on all inputs to protect the board, so diodes are not required on solenoids.

From the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connections (all .156" Molex unless specified) are:

* '''J1''': 5V input
* '''J3''': Bank A High Power Out
* '''J4''': Bank B High Power Out
* '''J5''': Bank A High Power In
* '''J6''': Bank B High Power In
* '''J7''': Bank A Input (ground)
* '''J9''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J10''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J11''': Bank B Input (ground)

==== Power Connections ====
High power ('''24V - 70V''') is connected directly to the ''PD-16'', which is fused, then output from the board to the high power devices, or to additional ''PD-16s''. In addition, '''5V''' is required to run the onboard logic and serial communications.

=== SW-16 Switch Board ===

For reading individual switches, the '''SW-16''' switch board is used.

[[Image:SW-16.png|SW-16 Switch Board]]

The ''SW-16'' uses '''12V''' for switches and works opposite of the driver boards - ground is connected to the switches and when closed, completes the circuit on the board. It is divided into two banks of 8. The 12V switch power is stepped down to 5V to handle the on-board logic and serial.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are:

* '''J1''': 12V Power (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Bank A Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J4''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J6''': Bank B Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)

=== PD-LED Light Board ===
Modern pinball machines use LEDs (light emitting diodes) for lighting, and the '''PD-LED''' is designed to drive them.

[[Image:PD-LED.png|PD-LED Light Board]]

The ''PD-LED'' can drive '''84''' individual LEDs using the seven 20-pin connectors on the board. Depending on the LED, power is supplied to the LEDs (resistors may be required depending on the forward voltage of the LED in question) and the cathode leg of the LED is connected to the ''PD-LED'' which grounds it to light. Some LEDs may be common anode so the wiring will be reversed.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/PD-LED-2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are as follows:

* '''J1''': 5V Logic (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J5''': LED 0-11
* '''J6''': LED 24-35
* '''J7''': LED 48-59
* '''J8''': LED 72-83 and Serial LED Control
* '''J9''': LED 12-23
* '''J10''': LED 36-47
* '''J11''': LED 60-71

==== Serial LED Control ====
The ''PD-LED'' can also serially control LED strings via '''J8'''. The board will need to be configured for serial use, and the pins used for serial communications with the LED strings cannot be used for single LEDs, thus reducing the total LED capacity.

===== WS281x =====
Three strings of single wire ''' [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1138 WS281x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 17-19'''. These type of serial LEDs do not have a clock signal so light shows may get out of sync with other events, but they are extremely inexpensive.

* '''J8 Pin 17''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 18''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 19''': Serial Data 0

===== LPD880x =====
Three strings of '''[https://www.adafruit.com/product/306 LPD880x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 7-9''' and '''12-14'''. These style include a clock signal for proper syncing.

* '''J8 Pin 7''': Serial Clock 2
* '''J8 Pin 8''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 9''': Serial Clock 1
* '''J8 Pin 12''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 13''': Serial Clock 0
* '''J8 Pin 14''': Serial Data 0

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built - more switches means more ''SW-16s'', more solenoids means more ''PD-16s'' and so on.

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire a game, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

Three main voltages are required: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''12V''' for switches and '''24V to 70V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for switches. For solenoids, you can use a separate switcher if you also use the '''Power Entry''' board as it has capacitors to handle sudden current demands - otherwise a switching power supply has built-in protection that will switch itself off due to the sudden overload.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Each board is chained to the '''P3-ROC''' via multiple 2-wire cables, and each board has a unique ID set via the on-board DIP switches. Multiple boards are attached to the previous board in a daisy-chain until the chain ends at the '''P3-ROC''' as in the below diagram. The diagram is only an example - any ''driver'' board can be connected to ''driver serial'', so you can put either ''PD-16s'' or ''PD-LEDs'' on the ''driver serial'' in any order.

[[Image:serial-diagram.png|Serial Connections]]

==== Serial Cables ====
Although almost any wire over 28AWG will do to make the serial cables, It is recommended to twist the wires in a pair to help cut down on electrical interference. This can be done by hand, or by placing the ends of the wire in a drill and spinning it. Another popular option is to re-purpose inexpensive CAT5 ethernet wires as they come pre-twisted.

Wires are connected '''positive to positive''' and '''negative to negative'''. So, for the ''switch'' cable, '''Pin 2''' (Serial Switch Data +) goes to '''Pin 2''' on the '''SW-16''' and so on.

==== DIP Switches ====
[[Image:DIP.jpg|DIP Switch]]

Each board includes an 8-position DIP switch, which is used to set the ID of the board in question, to terminate a chain of boards (DIP 8), and set some additional settings.

Each board needs a unique ID ''per serial chain'' - ie. you can have two ''Board 0''s as long as they are on different chains. '''DIP 1-6''' sets the ID in '''binary''' notation, starting at zero (All Off). So if you want to set the board ID to 5, you would set DIP 1 and 4 to ''On''. Or if you want to set the board ID to 0, leave all six ''Off''. If the board is the last board in the chain, set DIP 8 to ''On'' as well to terminate the serial chain. Boards connected earlier in the chain should have DIP 8 ''Off''.

[[Image:DIP.png|400px|DIP Switch]]

=== Wiring Examples ===
There are a number of ways to connect the '''P3-ROC''' boards to your machine but the following are some basic configurations to illustrate serial, power and device connections.

'''Important Note:''' When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, solenoids and LEDs, it is '''critical''' to connect all grounds together at the power supplies (or use the '''Power Entry''' board) to avoid a potential floating ground issue that can easily destroy your boards.

==== Serial Wiring ====
Remember to use ''twisted wire'' to help mitigate electrical interference with the serial signal.

[[Image:twisted.png|Twisted Pair]]

For ''Switch'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Ground
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 3
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
|}

For ''Driver'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Serial Driver Data +
|-
| 2
| Serial Driver Data -
|-
| 3
| Ground
|-
|}

In this diagram, it shows the serial connections between the ''P3-ROC'', two ''SW-16''s, a ''PD-LED'' and a ''PD-16''. The ''SW-16s'' are connected to one of the two ''Serial Switch'' connectors while the ''PD-LED'' and ''PD-16'' are connected to one of the two ''Serial Driver'' connectors. Note how the pinouts on ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' are different.

It also shows how the DIP switches are set on each board to ID them, as well as to terminate the chain on the last board (DIP-8).

[[Image:serial-2.png|Serial Example]]

Construction

2018-11-19T15:46:38Z

Jwilson: /* Cabinet Parts */

== Tools ==

=== Specialty Tools ===

* '''[http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=59 Pop Bumper Drilling Template]''': For use when drilling the playfield for ''Williams''-style pop bumpers. Instructions for use [http://www.iobium.com/pop_bumper_drilling_template.htm here].
* '''Dupont KF2510 Crimper''': Usually priced under $20 on ebay, this connector crimper works incredibly well. Used with 100 mil spaced connectors, standard pinball molex connectors, and spade terminals. It has three different sizes for different connectors. The trick is to start the crimp so that the ratchet holds the connector in its teeth. Slip the wire in to the terminal, and then finish crushing the crimp. The crimps are nice and tight and hold the wires very securely.

=== Metalworking Tools ===

[[Image:tools-metal.jpg|700px]]

* A few different colored sharpies for marking cuts and bends
* 4 1/2" angle grinder for cutting and grinding
* Flap disc grinding pads of multiple grits
* Metal cutting blades for a grinder
* Safety glasses and gloves
* A bunch of different size C-clamps - at least one large and two big enough to clamp large items
* A Square
* Measuring tape
* Different sized ballpein hammers
* Drill bits for steel
* Center punch
* Blow Torch - MAP Gas works best, Propane as a second choice

A '''Metal Brake''' is useful for bending sheet steel to make brackets.

[[Image:metal-brake.jpg|500px]]

The above example is available from [http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch-metal-brake-with-stand-91012.html Harbor Freight].

[[Image:tabletop-brake.jpg]]

If space is at a premium, there are smaller [http://www.micromark.com/Mini-Metal-Shear-and-Brake,12375.html tabletop] versions as well.

[[Image:home-brake.jpg]]

If cost is an issue, you can [http://toolguyd.com/diy-sheet-metal-bending-brake/ make your own] from common hardware store parts.

=== Woodworking Tools ===

Beyond the standard [http://www.pinrestore.com/Tools.html hand tools] needed to create a machine from scratch, here are some additional tools:

[[Image:router.png]]

A '''Hand Router''' for creating insert and device holes in the playfield.

[[Image:jigsaw.png]]

A '''Table Jigsaw''' for cutting playfield plastics, or plexi for your initial whitewood inserts.

[[Image:sander.png]]

A '''Hand Sander''' to level the playfield. You should also have sand paper in various grits ranging from 180 up to 320, plus finer grits for final polishing.

[[Image:forstner-bit.png]]]

'''Forstner bits''' for drilling clean holes. Easier than using the router.

=== Cabinet Tools ===

[[Image:table-router.png]]

For cabinet building, a table router with '''Locking Mitre''' bits.

[[Image:mitre-bit.png]]

It is a bit that creates a locking edge between cabinet corners.

=== Rotisserie ===
While not a necessity, it makes populating a playfield much easier (both top and the bottom wiring and mechanics). This is true both of shopping an existing pin, and creating one from scratch. It's purpose is to hold the playfield securely, but still allowing it to be rotated 360 degrees (to flip back and forth between top and bottom surface). It also makes touching up playfield art easier and can prevent back pain by not having to crouch over a pinball cabinet.

It is also possible to test play a layout while mounted to a rotisserie, so long as it has been leveled and there are rails around the perimeter to keep the ball from falling off. Sometimes the cabinet walls are used as walls for the playfield. Flipper buttons will also need to be temporarily wired up to actuate the flippers, and a bracket to mount a plunger if testing skill shots.

Factories will often fabricate elaborate and sturdy rotisseries out of thick steel since they may be used thousands of times per year:

[[Image: Rotisserie production.jpeg|500px]]

A hobbyist rotisserie doesn't need to be this elaborate. The most common rotisserie plan available online uses black gas pipes as the base, an angle plate for the playfield to rest on, and C-clamps to keep the playfield mounted:

[[Image: Rotisserie_pipes.jpg|500px]]

This design is functional but not without flaws. It costs upwards of $50 in supplies, the clamps most use can mark the playfield if not careful, and it can sometimes be difficult to get it set up. An alternate is to build it out of wood (reducing the chances of scratching the playfield when mounted), and using toggle clamps with rubber tips to protect the playfield:

[[Image: Rotisserie_wooden.jpg|500px]]

=== Advanced Tools ===

Although not strictly needed for hobbyists, the following are nice-to-have if you have some deep pockets, and they make whitewood production much faster and far more consistent. Rather than purchasing these, the best option is to find a local '''[http://www.techshop.ws/locations.html Maker Space]''' that has the equipment available for rent or through a monthly membership.

==== CNC ====

[[Image: cnc-router.png]]

A large-format CNC machine can take drawings from AutoCAD or Inkscape to cut a playfield exactly to the design, which will be much more accurate than one done by hand with a router.

Some reasonably-priced options include:

* [http://www.shopbottools.com/mProducts/prSstandard.htm ShopBOT]
* [http://mechmate.com/ MechMate]
* [http://www.generalcnc.ca/home GeneralCNC]

For smaller parts, there are much cheaper alternatives:

* [http://www.shapeoko.com/ Shapeoko] uses a standard hand router, like a Dremel, as the cutting tool, and is priced under $1K.

==== Laser Cutters ====

[[Image: laser-cutter.png]]

Using a laser cutter on plastics means fast prototyping of playfield plastics, and most cutters will also do engraving for interesting effects. Really high powered units will cut wood as well.

Some examples include [https://www.epiloglaser.com/ Epilog] and [http://www.ulsinc.com/ Universal].

A lower cost option is the [http://fslaser.com/products/lasers/hobby-lasers/newhobby Full Spectrum Laser].

== Materials ==

A rundown of the various materials needed to produce a whitewood.

=== Plywood ===

Commercial pinball machines use a specially sourced plywood that is not available from big box stores and generally not even specialty wood suppliers. Baltic Birch plywood has many more plys than big box store plywood. All the layers are Birch, so it is a very hard, heavy plywood.

[[Image:Birch_plywood.jpg|500px]]

The type of [http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/specialty-panels/hardwood-plywood/1-2-x-4-x-8-baltic-birch-plywood/p-1479673-c-13334.htm plywood] available at a big box store will have a thin ply on both sides, generally of softer '''Baltic Birch''', and will not have the surface area to allow a full 1/32" sanding to level the surface and inserts together. It will also have large voids inside.

[[Image: Plywood_box_store.jpg|500px]]

The thickness of a raw playfield is '''17/32"''', which is then sanded on top with inserts installed to a finished size of '''1/2"'''. Each side is a full face of hard '''Birch''' with five plys in-between, not a thin veneer to allow for this sanding. The following photo illustrates the full seven plys:

[[Image:plywood.png|500px]]

For hobbyists, the best option is '''Cabinet Grade''' plywood, preferably from a lumber yard, with a minimum of seven plys but a preference for nine - the more plys, the more stable and flat. This type of plywood will have a thicker top and bottom ply suitable for sanding. It will generally be the softer maple but for one-off games, it should prove acceptable.

[[Image:cabinet-grade.png|500px]]

Another affordable option for whitewoods is '''Medium Density Fibreboard'''. Typically sold as '''MDF''', it is also available in large quantities. The drawback for MDF is that it has poor flexibility and does not allow for easy removal and re-installation of screwed in parts. It is also a very heavy material since it is so dense. It is highly recommended to avoid using MDF for final playfields.

=== Sheetmetal ===

For ramps, ball guides and various other uses.

[http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-sheets/=ve62im Sheet Steel] at McMaster-Carr.

[http://www.grainger.com/category/stainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock/stainless-steel/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c22?bc=y#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fstainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock%2Fstainless-steel%2Fraw-materials%2Fecatalog%2FN-c22Z1z0o8uzZ1z0nmq0 Sheet Steel] including stainless at Grainger.

=== Inserts ===

For a whitewood, the easiest option is to use [http://www.eplastics.com/PLEXIGLASS-ACRYCLR0-060FM24X48 thin plexiglass] for inserts as it is readily available and fairly easy to cut to size with a table jigsaw. This allows for skipping the final sanding stage if using 1/2" plywood instead of 17/32".

Real pinball inserts are available in various sizes and colors from a number of suppliers including [http://www.pbresource.com/playfins.html Pinball Resource] and [http://www.marcospec.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=inserts Marco Specialities].

Some examples of the inserts available:

[[Image:inserts.png]]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-1FGS 1″ round green star #PI-1FGS]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-34RO 3/4″ round Orange #PI-34RO]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-58RW 5/8″ round White opaque #PI-58RW]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-112TGT 1-1/2″ triangle Green #PI-112TGT]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-901 Rollover star button housing red 3A-7537 #C-901]

Standard depth of inserts are '''1/4"''' and they are designed to be sanded flat after installation - there will be a number cast into the top of the part and the top edge will be slightly raised around the radius by approximately 1/32". Thus, when creating insert holes, you must drill slightly less than 1/4" deep to allow for the sanding.

=== Off the Shelf Parts ===

Thankfully there are a number of standard devices that appear on modern machines that can be used on custom games, saving the garage maker a lot of time and effort by providing ready-made parts that don't need to be made from scratch.

Most of these basics are available from [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=394&pg=1 Pinball Life] in the "Homebrew" section.

==== Microswitches ====

[[File:microswitch.jpg|Microswitch]]

The majority of switches in a game will consist of ones mounted under the playfield with a wire sticking up above that the ball will roll over to activate. Older games used leaf switches but modern one will use [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4624 microswitches]. These can be wired directly into your switch inputs and are '''normally open''' in that they make an electrical connection when the switch is activated.

==== Opto Switches ====

<span style="font-size:80%">The following information was sourced from a blog post by [http://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=1433 Scott Danesi] and used with permission.</span>

[[File:transmitter-opto.jpg|Transmitter]] [[File:receiver-opto.jpg|Receiver]]

The most common style of optos are the ''Bally/Williams'' '''WPC''' style [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=170 opto transmitter] and [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=171 receiver], available as an [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=168 assembly] ready to use. The LED emitter has no circuitry attached to it by default.

In order to safely power this type of LED, you will need to know the ''forward voltage'' of the LED, the ''maximum constant current'' that the LED can handle, what ''input voltage'' to supply to it (5v or 12v), and how much ''current'' to give the LED to ensure it has enough power to transmit infrared light to reach the opposite opto receiver.

For the ''WPC'' style opto the values are:

* '''Forward Voltage''': 1.7v
* '''Max Constant Current''': 100mA, but it is recommended to not exceed 75mA to maximize the life of the LED. This will be powerful enough to transmit a decent amount of distance between the emitter and receiver.
* '''Input Source Voltage''': 5v DC is recommended as it is higher than the forward voltage of the LED, and low enough that the resistor does not have to dissipate too much heat.

These LED emitters will need a current limiting resistor in series with them as applying 5v or 12v directly to the LED will cause it to overload and fail. Using a [http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz?VS=5;VF=1.7;ID=75 Resistance Calculator], the resistor value can be easily determined.

'''Important''': Be sure to use at least the minimum recommended resistor wattage. The calculator above is recommending at least a 1/2 watt resistor. Too small of a resistor and it can burn up,

On the receiver end, it can simply be wired directly to the inputs of your switch board. It will behave just like a standard switch as long as it is connected in the correct orientation. The ''cathode'' (ground) side of the emitter is the side with the flat indentation on the black epoxy base. However, note that opto receivers are '''normally closed''' switches and when it detects the IR beam from the emitter, it will be in a closed state, which is the opposite of a normal switch. When a ball breaks the opto beam it will go from a closed state to an '''open''' state, so your software needs to understand this.

==== Ball Trough ====

The trough is positioned at the bottom of the playfield and is used to collect all the balls used in standard game play. Originally holding only a single ball, it has evolved over the years and current versions can hold anywhere from one to six balls.

[[Image:ball-trough-example.jpg]]

Here is an original '''Gottlieb''' single ball trough:

[[Image:original-trough.jpg|500px]]

Here is an example of a ''Stern'' trough installed on a ''Batman'' playfield:

[[Image:ball-trough-stern.jpg|500px]]

Pinball Life offers an affordable [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4120 trough] that will work well in custom applications. It's available in a 3-ball and 6-ball version.

[[Image:pbl-trough.jpg]]

==== Slingshots ====

'''Slingshots''' are the objects above the flippers that kick the ball in the general direction of each other and towards the outlanes due to their upward angle. The lower playfield layout for modern machines has become a standard of two flippers, two outlanes, two inlanes, and two slingshots in a standard layout.

[[Image:slingshots-1.jpg]]

For example, here is a 1977 ''Gottlieb Mustang'' EM game illustrating the standard layout that has remained mostly unchanged in the last 30 years:

[[Image:lower-playfield.jpg|600px]]

The mechanism for slightshots involves a coil under the playfield that fires when a ball hits the rubber ring of the slingshot, closes one of two switches to register the hit, then propelling the ball in the opposite direction.

[[Image:bally-slingshot-diagram.jpg]]

Configuration for slingshots is not limited to just the standard layout, so home builders are free to layout slingshots in whatever manner they like. Occasionally even manufacturers themselves deviate from the standard layout - for example, ''Williams Space Station'' has no inlanes:

[[Image:space-station.jpg]]

==== Drop Targets ====

A Drop Target is a flat mechanical target that is held up on a small ledge and when hit with a ball, is moved backwards and dropped down via a small spring. There are generally switches for both the ''Up'' and ''Down'' positions but just a single ''Down'' switch will work. They can be arranged as single targets or in rows.

[[Image:drop-target-row.jpg|500px]]

Every manufacturer has their own designs and use a variety of switch types to detect the target position - ''Williams'' used optos while modern ''Stern'' games use microswitches.

Diagram of a standard ''Williams'' target including a drop coil:

[[Image:drop-target-diagram.png|500px]]

They are also available in an '''Inline''' format.

[[Image:inline-drop-targets.jpg|500px]]

Drop Targets are available in many of the usual mail-order establishments such as [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=410 Pinball Life] but usually come in only the standard colors such as Opaque Red, Yellow, Black or White. If you are planning on Back-lighting the drop targets with LEDs for effect or mode selection; Pinball-Mods.com offers Drop Targets in [https://Pinball-Mods.com/url/ClrDropTarget Frosted "Clear" Polycarbonate] for exactly this purpose. Make a [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Construction#Stencil_Cutter custom stencil] and you have a theme specific drop target.

==== Kickback ====

The kickback feature in a pinball machine allows the player to continue where they would have otherwise drained out of either outlane. A solenoid fires (not unlike an auto-plunger) against the ball, which quickly shoots it up the outlane and back into the playfield. For many games, this is enabled as part of the ball save and given to the player as a reward during normal play.

[[Image:kickback.jpg]]

The solenoid is mounted in the apron area, and a lane guide will need to be mounted for the ball to properly shoot upward and out. Normally there is a playfield lamp in the outlane to indicate to the player kickback is active.

==== VUK ====

Also known as ''Vertical Up-Kicker'', this is a scoop with a vertically mounted coil under the playfield with a plunger that kicks the ball vertically, typically through a scoop to bring a ball from one playfield to a higher one, or bring it up to wireform ramps. Scoop heights can vary, so there is really no stock part that will work in all applications.

Below you can see a VUK scoop made from cardboard, first cut out as a flat sheet, then folded up and glued along the edges (similar to bending sheet metal and tacking the gaps). An even better material to use is [[Construction#Foam_Core|Foam Core]].

[[Image: Vuk_scoop_flat.jpg|350px]]
[[Image: Vuk_formed.jpg|200px]]

After the scoop has been tested thoroughly (as with any design), it can be transferred to sheet metal and welded, or bent from PETG plastic and glued. Be sure to include tabs for mounting to the playfield.

==== Pop Bumper Bodies ====
Retail Pop Bumper Bodies are starting to come in nearly every color of the rainbow so you can somewhat easily match to color of bodies to your artwork, pop caps, or intended lighting. Pinball Life sells most standard colors in the [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3945 opaque] category and include Red, Blue, Orange, Yellow, and Black. Additionally PBL sells matching [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3945 Skirts] in those same colors with the addition of Green, Teal, and Purple.

If you'd rather show art thru the pop bumper body and skirts; Pinball-Mods.com offers translucent [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/pm_pbumper popbodies] in Clear, Blue, Yellow, Orange, Red, Green, and Purple. They also offer Chrome opaque and Gold opaque. If you use their [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/ClrSkirt clear skirts]; you can have artwork under the skirt for that little extra flair.

==== Hangers ====

'''Hangers''' (sometimes spelled "hangars") are the brackets at the bottom of the playfield that attach to the lockdown bar mechanism to hold the playfield up. Every manufacturer seems to have slightly different styles. Early ''Williams'' used a Z-shaped bracket that installed from underneath the playfield.

[[Image:williams-hanger.png|400px]]

The currently available off-the-shelf bracket is the ''Stern/Sega'' bracket that has a gusset shape, and are mounted above the playfield rather than below.

[[Image:Stern_gusset_hanger.jpg]]

==== Off-the-shell Cabinet Parts ====
Custom pinball machine cabinets is becoming easier due to many vendors providing "mod" friendly cabinet parts.

===== Flipper Buttons =====

[[Image:Pbl_a-16883.jpg|150px]]
Pinball-Life sells both [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1692 opaque] and [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3332 translucent] modern flipper buttons compatible with Stern and late model Williams cabinets.

[[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_Buttons.jpg|150px]] [[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_Housings.jpg|150px]]

Pinball-Mods.com offers both the [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/pm_btns Buttons] and [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/pm_btnhouse Housings] for early solid state machine cabinets by Bally, Gottlieb, Stern, and Chicago Coin which can be lit with LEDs using a technique documented in a [http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/classic-bally-stern-clear-buttons-vids-review Pinside thread].

=== Switch Types ===

There are a number of options when selecting switches, all of which have been used in pinball machines over the years.

A '''Leaf''' switch consists of two metal blades held together in a contact assembly, with one of the blades generally being longer than the other. In a normally-open leaf switch, the longer blade is pushed toward the shorter blade to close the circuit. On a modern pinball machine, only normally-open switches are used.

[[Image:switch-1.gif|300px]]

A '''Microswitch''' is a small enclosed switch that has a sheet metal blade or wire actuator to operate the switch. The actuator is not electrically connected to the switch contacts, so it can be used in situations where directly moving one of the switch leaves would be dangerous. The blade or wire actuator can be bent into a convenient shape for the game requirements

Microswitches with wire actuators are used for playfield roll-overs. The wire is bent to stick up through a slot in the playfield. When the ball rolls over the wire, it pushes down on the wire which operates the switch. Ones with blade actuators are used for detecting a ball passing through a gate. As the ball moves the wire gate, one end of the wire swivels down to press the blade which operates the switch.

[[Image:switch-3.gif]] [[Image:switch-2.gif]]

'''Optical''' switches use an infra-red light emitting diode (LED) to activate a photo transistor. There are three variations that are useful in pinball machines:

[[Image:switch-4.gif]] [[Image:switch-5.gif]] [[Image:switch-6.gif]]

* '''Slot-Type''': A slot-type optical switch has the LED and the photo transistor mounted in the legs of a "U" shaped plastic. The light emitting diode is always on, and a "blade" that moves in and out of the slot interrupts the beam turning the photo transistor on and off.
* '''Reflective''': An optical switch that has the LED and the photo transistor mounted side-by-side and facing outward. When a reflective surface comes near the switch, the beam from the LED reflects back to the photo transistor. Typical range for this type of switch is 3-6 millimeters or 1/8" to 1/4".
* '''Separates''': An optical switch that has the LED and photo transistors in separate packages. The light emitting diode is always on, and an object moving between the LED and the photo transistor interrupts the beam turning the photo transistor on and off. The range for this type of switch can be up to 30 centimeters or 12".

'''Proximity''' switches may be ''inductive, ultrasonic, capacitive, or optical''. A proximity switch detects the presence or absence of something within a certain ''proximity'' (or range) of the switch.

'''Inductive''' proximity switches work in two different ways. The '''Active''' type, an oscillator generates an electromagnetic field. When an electrically or magnetically conductive object enters the field of the oscillator, its frequency is altered, and the output switches. This type of switch can only be used when oscillator field will not sense too large an area. The '''Passive''' type uses a coil with an iron core or a semiconductor in a magnetic field (Hall effect sensor). A moving, magnetically conductive object disturbs the magnetic field and generates an electric current. This type of switch is not sensitive enough to detect a pinball reliably. It is used for detecting regular movement like gear wheel teeth rotating past, or with a magnet in a keyboard switch.

'''Capacitive''' proximity switches work in two different ways. The '''Passive''' type has a sensor that consists of two concentrically mounted electrodes (which are the electrodes of an opened capacitor). When an object approaches the sensor, the electrostatic field is changed. (It changes in opposite directions for conductive and non-conductive materials.) This change is detected by the switch. The '''Active''' type capacitive switches operate by generating a radio frequency. As an object approaches, the impedance seen by the radio frequency changes. This influence is measured within the circuitry and compared with the reference point set by the sensitivity adjustment.

The key factor for a switch is that it ''electrically completes a circuit'', so they can consist of any two conductive objects being connected - so, even the pinball itself can be used as a switch if it connect two wires together!

=== Playfield Parts ===

The best source of parts like switch targets, pop bumpers, posts and other miscellaneous bits is from parts machines - picking up a used machine with a worn playfield and just cleaning up those parts will be ten times cheaper than buying all new parts.

However, given the increasing value of even older solid-state machines, finding games to part out is becoming increasingly difficult, so the only option may be purchasing new.

Once a preliminary [[Design|design]] is complete, the next step is to create an initial prototype, known in the industry as a '''Whitewood'''.

== Whitewood ==

The origin of the term ''whitewood'' is related to the material of the playfield, which is traditionally '''White Maple'''. The first iteration of a game will not have any artwork or lighting as the purpose is to test the layout, flipper shots and the overall ''feel'' of the design to confirm it plays as expected.

The second iteration of the whitewood - generally a different playfield rather than the existing one re-cut - will include inserts, lighting and any ramps or playfield devices needed for the complete game. This version of the prototype is used to create the first iteration of the ruleset and special effects.

Here is an unpopulated whitewood for Cirqus Voltaire, which is a later iteration that does have inserts for lighting, but not yet having artwork.

[[Image:cv-whitewood.png]]

Here is a populated whitewood for AC/DC, which does not have the later sub-playfield so is much earlier in the design process.

[[Image:acdc-whitewood.png]]

Typically a playfield is made of 9-ply birch plywood, '''17/32"''' thick with the additional 1/32" allowing for the inserts to be sanded flush. A number of European manufacturers used plastic playfields, and some domestic companies experimented with them in the 1970's, but the vast majority use plywood.

===Playfield Sizes===
Here is a list of playfield sizes by various manufacturers;

{|class="wikitable" style="border-width: 5px;" cellpadding="10"
!Company
!Type
!Style
!Inches
|-
|Alvin G
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Alvin G
|SS
|Mystery Castle
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Atari
|SS
|Widebody
|27.00" x 45.00"
|-
|Bally
|EM
|Standard
|20.25" x 41.00"
|-
|Bally
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Bally
|SS
|Widebody
|26.75" x 40.50"
|-
|Capcom
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Data East
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Data East
|SS
|Widebody
|25.00" x 51.75"
|-
|Game Plan
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|EM
|Standard
|20.25" x 41.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 1
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Widebody
|23.75" x 46.50"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Circus (Extra Wide)
|26.75" x 46.50"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 3
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Stern Electronics
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Stern Electronics
|SS
|Widebody
|23.875" x 45.00"
|-
|Stern Pinball
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 45.00"
|-
|Williams
|System 1-11
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Williams
|System 1-11
|Widebody
|27.00" x 42.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC
|Safecracker
|16.50" x 41.50"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (through 1987)
|Standard
|20.50" x 42.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (1987 on)
|Standard
|20.25" x 44.5"
|-
|WMS
|WPC
|Superpin (Widebody)
|23.00" x 46.00"
|-
|WMS
|Pinball 2000
|Standard
|20.50" x 43.00"
|-
|Zaccaria
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|}

=== Foam Core ===

When creating an initial whitewood to test shots, install the lower third (flippers, slingshots) and side rails, but use '''Foam Core''' for your ramps and any upper playfield stuff. It is easy to cut and form with hot glue, quickly and cleanly. It is also strong enough to endure test playing without breaking.

[[Image:foam-core.jpg|500px]]

Use '''1/4" to 1/8"''' for ramp bottoms, and hot glue thinner '''posterboard''' on the sides. You can also use posterboard for the transitions between the playfield and the ramps. Trace the shape of the ramp on the foam core, cut it out, then glue on thinner sides.

Foam core can also be used for stand ups, pop bumpers and other devices to test other shots. Either stack it or stand it up and glue it together. Use hot glue for everything - easy to use, dries quickly, holds strong, and you can rip it apart to change things as needed.

[[Image:foam-core-4.jpg]]

When complete, the game should be basically playable in terms of playfield and ramp shots, and if the game plays okay with foam core, it will play even better in plastic and metal.

[[Image:foam-core-2.jpg|500px]]

An alternate to foam core (which can be pricey at $7 for a 2' x 3' sheet), is cardboard. It is a material that is readily available in multiple thicknesses and footprint sizes, often obtainable for free since it's such a highly recycled material. It can be bent at angles and remain stiff in fluted versions, or bent in a curve by squishing the flutes down, very similarly to sheet metal. Since cardboard has no foam inside, it can often be stiffer and closer to a harder material like plastic. It is as easily cut with an x-acto blade or scissors.

=== Cutting ===

(Sourced from a tutorial by Josh Kugler) [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=843.0]

Before proceeding with any cutting, a completed playfield drawing is needed, to be used as a template. For details on that portion of the process, visit the [[Design]] section of the wiki. One tip that will help later is to add centering lines to all the drilled insert circles to aid in proper placement.

Once complete, take the file to a ''FedexOffice'' or similar '''Printing House''' and have it printed full size. Use '''3M Spray adhesive''' to glue the print to your playfield surface. This print acts as your drilling and cutting template.

[[Image:pf-cutting-1.png|500px]]

Use two '''Forstner bits''' for each insert. The first is the wider opening that is the same size as the insert, drilled to the appropriate depth of the insert which is typically '''1/4"'''. The second bit is '''1/16"''' smaller can then be used to drill the through hole. This leaves a '''1/32"''' lip for the insert to sit on.

Since the Forstner bit has a centering point there is a natural centering hole for the second bit, making it easier to get it lined up right. The cleanest technique is to drill just short of going through, and then complete the hole from the other side using a standard cordless drill.

[[Image:pf-cutting-2.png|500px]]

Don’t do the three steps in order per hole, but the first step for a bunch of holes, then the second and third.

For creating a non-circular insert, use a router with a template and '''Bushing guide''' - a router bit with a small roller bearing on it runs along your guide, while the cutting head runs in the playfield to cut the hole to the size of the template. Creating the template is the hard part, but once you have that, it is relatively easy to route multiple holes for the inserts. This is a three step process similar to the circular inserts.

As with the circular inserts, first create the ''wider'' opening. This is done by clamping the template to the playfield and then routing the wider opening using the bearing bit.

Drill a couple of holes in the center of the insert so there is less to route. This is also helpful when doing the second step, of cutting out the inner opening, that is slightly smaller then the insert opening, since the router bit can start in one of the holes and not have to be plunged into the wood.

[[Image:pf-cutting-4.png|500px]]

A '''3/16"''' bit and a '''5/16"''' bushing/guide offers the best results, which gives a lip of 1/16", a little bigger then for the circular inserts. This second routing can be done without a template, since the insert opening itself can act as the template.

[[Image:pf-cutting-3.png|500px]]

== Cabinet ==

Made from '''3/4"''' plywood, mitre-jointed at the corners. Some of the considerations when designing or building a pinball cabinet include:

* Switch locations
* Side rails
* Lockdown bar mechanism
* Plunger height
* Coindoor size
* Leg mounting brackets
* Speaker bezel

There are typically two cabinet styles, '''Standard''' body and '''Wide''' body.

=== Cabinet Parts ===

If building a ''Williams'' style standard cabinet, '''VirtuaPin''' offers a [http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=9 Ultimate Cab-Builder's Kit] that has all the cabinet-specific parts in one handy kit.

[[Image:cabinet-parts.jpg|500px]]

Alternatively, for just the playfield mounting parts:

* 2x [https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-playfield-pivot-bracket-500-5329-03.html Stern Playfield Pivot Bracket 500-5329-03]
* 2x [https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-edge-slide-bracket.html Stern Edge Slide Bracket]
* 1x [https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-slide-pivot-support-bracket-right.html Stern Slide & Pivot Support Bracket - Right]
* 1x [https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-slide-pivot-support-bracket-left.html Stern Slide & Pivot Support Bracket - Left]
* 2x [https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-playfield-hanger-bracket.html Stern Playfield Hanger Bracket]
* 1x [https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-lockdown-bar-lever-guide-receiver-assembly-wpcwpc-95.html WMS Lockdown Bar Lever Guide Receiver Assembly]
* 1x [https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-standard-size-stainless-steel-lockdown-bar-circa-1990-1998-seconds.html WMS Standard Size Stainless Steel Lockdown Bar]

When cutting your cabinet for the coin door, keep in mind it is installed with four bolts centered on the bottom, sides and top, and that the top hole goes through the lockdown bracket. So both need to line up.

[[Image:coin-door-lockdown.jpg|500px]]

== Electronics ==

Once the physical playfield is constructed, wiring it all together and adding a way to control the devices will be required. There are three basic options - use existing pinball boards, build custom control boards or purchase off-the-shelf units.

=== Existing Boards ===

A popular option is using boards from existing machines and replacing the main controller. For example, the '''Gottlieb System 3''' driver board uses modern MOSFET drivers, supports 32 coils and a 8x10 lamp matrix, and is available for $100 from [http://www.pbresource.com/stargate/gtb-ma1358.jpg Pinball Resource].

[[Image:sys3-driver.png|800px|Schematic for the Gottlieb System 3 Driver board]]

Another well documented system is the original [http://rottendog.us/BPS022.html Bally system].

=== Custom Boards ===

* '''[[OPP|Open Pinball Project]]''' is a low-cost, DIY solution for basic pinball control and is a good way to learn pinball control systems. There is extensive documentation hosted on this wiki.
* '''[https://github.com/LonghornEngineer/Pinheck_Pinball_System Pinheck]''' is a system designed by Ben Heck for use in America's Most Haunted and is not currently available in kit form, but you can download the design and have it printed yourself for use in your own games.
* '''[https://github.com/stu/system_shock System Shock]''' is a work-in-progress and currently only the driver board is available for download.

=== Off-the-Shelf Boards ===

* '''[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/index.php/products/p-roc P-ROC]''' (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller) is a well-supported generic platform that is in use by many custom games. It has a dedicated [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/ forum].
* '''[http://fastpinball.com/ FAST Pinball]''' has controllers and board comparable to P-ROC.

=== Controller PCs ===

Most off-the-shelf systems require an external PC with USB to provide the signals to control the solenoids and lamps. Currently these small ARM-based boards are the best candidates as they are more powerful than the '''Raspberry Pi''' or '''Arduino''' boards:

* '''[http://ameridroid.com/products/odroid-c1 O-DROID]''' : Quad-core CPU, dual-core GPU, 1GB DDR3 RAM, Gigabit Ethernet , 4x USB2.0 ports.
* '''[http://beagleboard.org/BLACK Beaglebone Black]''': AM335x 1GHz ARM® Cortex-A8, 512MB DDR3 RAM, 4GB 8-bit eMMC on-board flash storage
* '''[http://cubieboard.org/model/cb3/ CubieTruck]''': ARM® Cortex™-A7 Dual-Core, 2GB DDR3, HDMI & VGA 1080P display output, 10M/100M/1G Ethernet, Wifi + BT, SATA 2.0 , NAND+MicroSD or TSD+ MicroSD or 2*MicroSD

=== Coil Sizes ===

[[Image:coil.jpg]]

When choosing coils, it is important to understand how coil sizing works.

For example, decoding the ''Williams'' part number '''AL-23-550''' has three parts - the prefix '''AL''' means the coil has base wire lugs on the left and middle of the coil's base, while '''23''' is 23 gauge wire and '''550''' is the number of turns of wire. The more turns, the weaker the coil.

For more details on coils, check out the [http://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html Pinball Medic coil chart].

=== Power Supplies ===

[[Image:power-supply.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:power-supply-2.jpg]]

There are a couple of options when it comes to power.

* '''Commercial Pinball Transformer / Power Supply''': Most dedicated pinball transformers will provide various power level taps like '''6.3V''' for the GI and CPU, '''24V''' for basic coils and '''50V''' for flippers and other high-current coils. You'll need the comparable power supply board to convert the AC voltages to DC, or create the power supply yourself.
* '''[http://www.antekinc.com/ps-4n70-400w-70v-power-supply/ AnTek]''': The model '''PS-4N70R5R12''' provides high current '''70V''' as well as 1A '''5V/12V''' feeds to run the CPU and lights.
* '''[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=18&y=17&lang=en&site=us&keywords=285-1815-ND TDK-Lamda]''': Available from ''Digikey''. Model '''LS150-36''' is a '''36V''' switching supply, suitable for most standard coils but may not be enough for flippers or VUKs.
* '''[http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_295929_-1 Meanwell]''': The '''SE-600-48''' is a '''48V 12A''' supply which can be dialed up to 50v. There are also lower amperage 48V models such as the '''Meanwell NES-350-48''' which provides '''7A'''. Meanwell is a highly respected brand that make very good power supplies.
* '''[http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=cnc+power+supply&_nkw=cnc+power+supply&_sacat=0 eBay]''': Search for ''CNC Power Supplies''. These will often be '''48V''' high current switching supplies designed for stepper motors and will provide enough power for coils so long as the maximum current isn't exceeded.

==== Selecting Power Supplies ====

It is recommended to get at least a '''3A''' supply for coils. The quality, especially from China, is not always guaranteed. Be sure to choose one with a case that has adequate venting to prevent shorts if any metal items are dropped on the circuitry. Power supplies with fans are recommended. They typically won't turn on unless they get hot enough (Coils pulling excessive current, hot ambient temperature). Sometimes coils may pull more amps than the power supply can provide, so wiring in resistors and capacitors (to buffer energy) may be necessary so the power supply doesn't reset.

Computer power supplies are fine for CPU and some lighting, but won't provide enough current for solenoids. If using a standard PC as the CPU for the machine, there is a useful [http://scottdanesi.com/WP/?page_id=398 board] for controlling PC power supplies from the external high-current supply.

With modern switching power supplies, having one supply for coils and another for CPU / LEDs is common, so please remember that '''All grounds from all supplies need to be connected together''' otherwise it may create a '''floating ground''' situation that can lead to destroying boards and other electronics.

==== Capacitor / Filter Board ====

Using a modern switcher with coils means using a '''Capacitor Board''' between the supply and any solenoids to provide coils that sudden onrush of current. Some options include:

[[Image:power-entry.png|Power Entry PCB]]

The Multimorphic [https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry PCB] distributes AC power and up to 4 different DC voltages, generally 5v, 12v, 15v, and “high voltage” (typically 48v or 70v). A 12v relay enables the “high voltage” output. LEDs identify the presence of each of the 4 DC voltages.

[[Image:fast-power.png|FAST Power Filter Board]]

The FAST [http://fastpinball.com/platform/hardware/fast-power/fast-power-filter-board Power Filter Board] provides capacitor filtering and fusing.

For those interested in DIY solutions, the OPP [[OPP#Power_Filter_Board|Power Filter Board]] provides similar functionality.

== Wiring ==

Most pinball machines have wire harnesses of some type. As high-current devices, solenoids typically need a minimum of '''18AWG''' wire. Wiring for lighting and switches can be much thinner since it's pulling less current, particularly if using LEDs, so '''20-22AWG''' wiring is acceptable for low-current uses.

[[Image:wire-guages.png]]

=== Connectors ===

Most Pinball machines use the [https://www.molex.com/product/kk/kk.html Molex KK Series] connectors in the '''0.100"''' and '''0.156"''' sizes. There is a PDF with the part numbers from Mouser in the [[Files_Section|Files]] section.

=== Wire Management ===

Because prototyping (or one-off) projects don't have pre-determined wire lengths and quantities, how wire is routed will change many times before the game is complete. It is highly recommended to use tie mount bases (with adhesive) versus clips that are permanently screwed into the playfield. That way they can be moved around as needed.

[[Image:wire-manage-1.gif|400px]]

It is also recommended to use re-usable tie-wraps, which allow repeated opening and closing as needed.

[[Image:wire-manage-2.jpg]]

Here is an example of a prototype playfield using these types of wire holders:

[[Image:wire-manage-3.jpg|400px]]

=== Wiring Harness ===

Once the final wiring layout is complete, paper templates of the playfield layout on thick cardboard or wood paneling can be used to make a '''Wiring Pinboard''', similar to the boards that the manufacturers use to make their '''Wiring Harnesses'''. Place nails in appropriate spots and run wires as needed, with tie-wraps.

[[Image:wiring-pinboard-2.jpg|400px]] [[Image:wiring-pinboard.jpg|600px]]

=== Color Coding ===

To aid in troubleshooting and wire layout, pinball companies use '''color-coded''' wire, where it has one color as the main jacket and a second color as a smaller stripe, allowing for many color combinations. For instance, Williams used yellow and white wire for lamps.

Getting a full stock color-coded wire can be very expensive, but the folks at [https://missionpinball.com/ Mission Pinball] came up with a cheaper alternative method of properly color-coding wire using cheap PVC piping.

[[Image:wire-marker-1.jpg|500px]]

Start with purchasing single-color wire in 50' - 100' spools. Get 18 and 20AWG spools for each type of wiring. The more base colors to start, the better.

Next, get some '''oil-based''' markers, which can be found at local hobby stores. One notable brand is Sharpie, and they should be labeled specifically as oil-based paint markers - water-based will scratch or wipe off easily. They will be more expensive but are the only type that work correctly.

Although Mission used a wood block to hold the markers, using a PVC '''T joint''' and drilling a hole through it in the center allows the placement of the paint marker in the T portion of the joint and pressing down on the wire as it passes through works very well.

[[Image:wire-marker-2.png|500px]]

=== Matrix Color Coding ===

Where color-coding is particularly important is in '''Switch''' and '''Lamp Matrix''' layouts. Plan ahead and design your color scheme before starting the construction of the game in a spreadsheet.

Below is an example of a color layout for a custom game. This document can be referenced during construction to make sure the right wire is going to the right switch, lamp or coil, avoiding troublesome issues later during the testing phase.

[[Image:matrix-spreadsheet.png|700px]]

== Displays ==

==== Numeric / Alphanumeric ====

Numeric or Alphanumeric score displays are sometimes chosen even today because of the ease of programming - they display simple scores or lines of text only, so no complicated graphics need to be designed or coded. That means more time to concentrate on gameplay versus interfacing with the player.

==== Gas Plasma ====

The first commercial solid-state displays in common usage were '''Gas Plasma''' displays. They use high voltage to cause a noble gas like neon to glow. Shaping the conductive layers into digits allows the display of multiple numbers or letters.

[[Image:gas-plasma.jpg]]

These types of displays are not only dangerous, due to the high voltages required, they are prone to burn-out or out-gassing, and have been obsolete for many years. Unless re-theming an older game and wanting to re-use existing parts, or trying to maintain a retro look, it is suggested to use '''LED''' replacements.

==== LED Displays ====

[[Image:led-display.jpg]]

The pinball after-market has produced a number of excellent plug-and-play LED display replacements.

* [http://xpinpinball.com/ X-PIN] has 6- and 7-segment displays as well as alphanumerics.
* [http://www.pinscore.com/products/pinball-displays Pinscore] has retrofit kits for older machines.
* [http://www.pinled.de/shop/index.php PinLED] in Europe has a variety of options available.

Additionally, there are many generic LED displays to choose from:

* [http://www.adafruit.com/categories/103 Adafruit] offers a number of LED segment displays with instructions on programming them with various microcontrollers.

=== Dot Matrix ===

[[Image:dmd-closeup.png]]

Modern games make use of either a gas plasma or LED '''Dox Matrix Display''' or '''DMD'''. They work on the same principle as the segment display except they use round pixels in a grid pattern - or ''matrix'' - to display game information.

[[Image:dmd-display.png]]

The complexity with these displays is that the programmer must construct numbers or letters in a graphic format and then push that data to the display. Rather than program "display 300,000", they must use '''bitmap''' fonts and determine screen placement.

However, many [[Programming#Frameworks|programming frameworks]] currently available offer this functionality built in and are an excellent place to start learning about game graphics.

Other options for matrix displays include:

[[Image:small-dmd.png]]

* [http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/75-peggy2 Evil Mad Scientist] offers the Peggy 2 DMD kit for exploring DMD programming.
* [http://www.adafruit.com/categories/326 Adafruit] has a variety of matrix boards with programming instructions included.
* [http://www.embeddedadventures.com/led_matrix_displays_category.html Embedded Adventures] has kits as well.

=== LCD Display ===

The trend for modern games is using '''LCD''' screens in place of DMDs or other older display technologies. Full color with high resolution, the results can be very attractive. However, at this level a game designer essentially becomes a videogame designer. A pinball maker has to wear many hats but it is the rare individual who can do both construction ''and'' handle graphics duties.

There is some discussion of the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1026.0 technical] side of graphical displays on the pinballcontrollers Forum.

== Lighting ==

Pinball lighting comes in two varieties - ''incandescent'' and ''LED''. Older incandescent games can be retrofitted with modern LED lamps, or when fully customizing, replaced with custom board-mounted LEDs or [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Basics#Serial_Chain_LEDs Serial Chain LEDs].

=== Socket Styles ===

For incandescent, most lighting is socketed either by a '''bayonet''' or '''wedge''' socket.

[[Image:wedge-base.jpg]]

[[Image:bayonet-base.jpg]]

''Bayonet'' is preferred since the bulb is more likely not to wiggle itself out from vibration during play and transport. While pinball started out with incandescent bulbs, most are moving towards LED for many reasons:

* Less power draw
* More color options
* Lasts longer which means replacing less often
* Less damaging. The constant heat/cool from incandescent bulbs are known to warp plastics and cause flaking on backglasses.

=== Bulb Mount Types ===

The most common sizes are the '''#44/#47 Bayonet''' Base, the '''#555 Wedge''' Base, the '''#89 Bayonet''' and the '''#906 Wedge'''.

[[Image:led-bulbs.jpg]]

One drawback of LED's are that they don't have a ramp-up of brightness like incandescent bulbs, and sometimes they can be bright enough to hurt the eyes. The ramp-up effect can be emulated in software if the lamp controller has enough brightness levels, and diffusion-style bulbs help the brightness issue. They are best used as '''General Illumination'''.

[[Image:coin-taker-bulb.jpg]]

Modern ''Stern'' games going forward use a '''Surface Mount LED''' board that are driven directly which eliminates the need for sockets altogether. The drawback to these are that the boards are directly soldered, so if there are issues, they can't be easily replaced. However, the long life of LEDs makes it unlikely for them to burn out at the rate incandescent lamps do.

For a custom game, a combination of '''Cointaker [http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc?categoryId=211 Premium Frosted]''' or '''Ablaze [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2561 4-LED]''' for GI and the '''FAST Pinball [https://squareup.com/market/fast-pinball-llc/fast-rgb-led-insert RGB LED Insert]''' or '''Multimorphic [https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/rgb-led/ RGB LED]''' boards for inserts are a good choice.

=== Custom LED Boards ===

Many vendors provide custom lighting solutions which might not fit in a traditional socket as above or have specific pinball specific uses.

[[Image:brite-cap.png|300px|BriteCaps EVO]]

One example is the [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3624 BriteCaps EVO] mod for #555 Pop bumpers. These PCBs plug into the #555 socket typically found in most modern pop bumper assemblies.

[[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_StarRolloverLED.png|300px|Star Rollover LED]]

Pinball Mods offers a [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/StarRolloverLED Star Rollover LED] which shines 4 LEDs from the underside of a [http://www.pbresource.com/bigindian/gtb-d11966c.jpg star rollover] and has a hole in the center to allow the switch actuator to function properly on the leaf switch.

[[Image:lit-flip-2.jpg|300px|Light up Flipper buttons]]

For lighting translucent flipper buttons, a #44 socket and the Cointaker '''[http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc;jsessionid=7A7CECA77E05B788FA02BB59CAE187C7.m1plqscsfapp05?categoryId=166 44/47 Flex Super Bright]''' lamps can be installed by attaching the socket under the flipper button and out of the way of the Flipper Button Leaf Switch.

[[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_FlipperMod.gif|200px|Flipper Mod]]

Pinball Mods offers the '''[http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/FlipperBtnMod Flipper Button Mod]''' which displays a rotating 12 LED pattern behind early solid state Flipper buttons for project using the [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Construction#Flipper_Buttons older style flipper buttons].

== Custom Parts ==

Many hobbyists plan on producing games with game-specific features that aren't included in other machines, such as ramps or ball control devices, and thus will have to design and construct mechanisms from scratch. This generally involves metalworking, welding and other more advanced skills, but are not beyond the garage hobbyist.

=== Plastics ===

There will likely be many plastic shields scattered on the playfield to:

* Hide mechanisms
* Improve aesthetics
* Prevent a launched ball from getting stuck in a crevice

While using a laser cutter would be ideal, it is possible to produce plastics with basic hand tools. It is recommended to buy something easier to cut than acrylic, such as ''1/16" PETG'', which can be purchased from [http://www.mcmaster.com/#petg/=xs5xgh McMaster]. This can be cut fairly easily with strong scissors (or an x-acto if used carefully), and like acrylic it can be flame polished.

To create artwork, the best method is to print it on ''photo paper'', and then use a ''spray adhesive'' to attach it to the bottom of the plastic. Examples include ''3M Super 77'' (try to find the 25% lower VOC verison). These products dry clear and will not yellow.

[[Image: Spray_adhesive_3m.jpg]]

'''Please use caution when using this product as it is extremely volatile!'''

First, trace the shape to be cut on the thin blue film on top of the plastic. Remove the film from the bottom where art is being applied. The artwork should be just slightly bigger than the plastic to ensure there are no gaps when trimmed.

[[Image: Plastics_overlap1.jpg|300px]]

Make sure to spray in light, even coats on the backside of the plastic. Let it get tacky for 10-15 seconds, then move the printed art (art side up) over, and turn the plastic over and apply the plastic onto the paper - this will make it easier to line it up.

[[Image: Plastics_spray2.jpg]]

This is what it will look like when first applied. The adhesive will turn clear as it dries.

[[Image: Plastics_apply3.jpg|300px]]

Once the adhesive has dried, the holes can be drilled starting with a small bit, and working up to the hole size needed.

[[Image: Plastics_hole_drill4.jpg|300px]]

Trim off the excess paper by using the plastic as a guide. Trim slow and carefully as to not dig into the plastic with the knife.

[[Image: Plastics_trim5.jpg|300px]]

Here's an example of prototyped plastics installed on the slingshots:

[[Image: Plastics_installed6.jpg]]

The white paper acts as a nice diffuser to spread the light out, just like the white ink layer on screenprinted plastics.

[[Image: Plastics_lit_up7.jpg|300px]]

=== 3D Printing ===

(From Wolfmarsh's [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wolfs-beginner-guide-to-3d-printing-and-pinball Pinside] tutorial)

The big revolution in garage building is 3D printing.

The most popular among home machines is '''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling Fused Deposition Modeling]''' (FDM for short). '''FDM''' is where a thermoplastic filament is slightly melted, extruded through a small nozzle, and deposited in layers to build up the object. Most home printers use this method.

Here is an image that gives the general idea. One is the ''Extruder'', two is the deposited ''Layers'', and three is the ''Build platform''.

[[Image:3d-1.png]]

A second method that is popular with the higher end machines, is '''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering Selective Laser Sintering]''' (SLS). With '''SLS''', a layer of powder is deposited on the build surface, then a laser melts specific areas together. The build surface lowers a fraction of a millimeter, and more powder is deposited. Repeat until the object is built. Here are a couple short videos that shows how SLS works:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=sFpSxX0SzgY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-6ItiCbYFvI

==== Buying a Printer vs Using a Service ====

Most home printers will print using plastic filament and FDM. Services like [http://www.shapeways.com/ Shapeways] can afford higher end printers that offer higher resolution with SLS.

For most of what a garage builder will do, FDM and home printing will cover it. If a full color print or some very fine details are needed, like screw threads, the part can be ordered from ''Shapeways''.

If planning to purchase a home printer, it is recommended to read the [http://makezine.com/volume/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/ Make Guide to 3D printers]. One option is the '''[http://printrbot.com/shop/simple-metal-kit-with-heated-bed/ Printrbot Simple Metal Kit]''' with a Heated Bed upgrade. There are many clones coming out now that patents have run out. If you look at the flashforge, there are 2-3 clones that are as cheap as half cost. Monoprice has a few options. While heated bed isn't necessary for PLA, heat does seem to help all materials and is necessary for ABS. Choice of materials will come down to nozzle temp, but you want one that can handle at least 230C or higher.

[[Image:3d-2.jpg]]

Generally with the lower cost kits, the only real sacrifice is speed and maximum build size.

==== Printing an Object ====

The easiest way to get into 3D printing without having to create models is to download pre-made models. A great source for this is '''[http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]'''. Pinball parts are starting to appear on Thingiverse, so there is a small library already available.

For example, [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608164 here] is a shooter lane designed by Pinside contributor swinks:

[[Image:3d-3.jpg]]

Download an '''.STL file''' of the model to print. It contains the geometry for the object in a language the printing software can understand. Once you have the .STL file, you feed it to a '''Slicing program''' like '''[http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r]'''. A slicing program takes a 3D model and cuts it into the layers needed to feed to the 3D printer.

Here is a quick example of how it works. The model is on the left, and the sliced version on the right.

[[Image:3d-4.jpg]]

Once the object has been sliced, the program will generate a '''G-code''' file, which is the common language that CNC machines use.

A G-code file looks like this:

G1 X52.008 Y54.121 E2.04455
G1 X51.948 Y52.484 E2.13013
G1 X51.969 Y52.373 E2.13608
G1 X52.042 Y50.606 E2.22844
G1 X52.067 Y50.514 E2.23342
G1 X52.258 Y48.934 E2.31658
G1 X52.708 Y48.561 E2.34712
G1 X52.998 Y48.608 E2.36247
G1 X54.421 Y48.632 E2.43686
G1 X54.532 Y48.659 E2.44282

This example is a bunch of G1 commands that tell the machine to move to a specific X position, a specific Y position, and to Extrude a specific amount of filament. The G-code file gets loaded into the '''Printer control software''', and slowly fed to the printer as it prints the object.

The Printrbot example above can be driven using a '''Raspberry PI''', running a special image called [http://octoprint.org/download/ '''OctoPi]'''. It provides a web interface to the printer.

If everything worked as expected, at the end of the print process there is a real, complete object based on the models:

[[Image:3d-5.jpg]]

If things don't go well, it may end up as a bunch of trash plastic. It happens.

[[Image:3d-6.jpg]]

The key is to experiment and find shapes that work well, and to design shapes with the properties of the materials being used - if building brackets to hold coils, the resulting bracket should be thick enough to maintain its shape when the coil fires. The following is an example from ''America's Most Haunted.''

[[Image:3d-7.jpg]]

While all 3d printers should be monitored, once the first few layers stick it's generally safe for them to run un-monitored. PEI sheet beds help sticking, as do things like buildtak and zebra bed. This is much more convenient than replacing blue tape every build. As of this writing, there has never been a 3d printer reported to have thermal runaway and melt. Not to say electronics can't fail, but it's very unlikely. It's not uncommon for users to run batch print jobs overnight while they sleep. Some users have experimented with running jobs while not at home, but this usually requires both a webcam to monitor the print job, and a remote shutdown circuit that is internet enabled through a simple computer like arduino or a raspberry pi.

Software can make a big difference not only in build quality, but build support breakaway. Pay Programs like Simplify3d are not only superior in both of these, but it also spits out g-code very quickly. It also keeps updating with default printer settings as new printers come out. For free software, Cura seems to be the #1 choice.

=== Vacuum-Forming ===

(Sourced from a tutorial by Josh Kugler) [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1338.0]

Doing simple vacuum-forming in your garage is straight-forward. The basic idea is to use a standard oven to heat up a sheet of plastic until it softens, then place it over a pre-made ''form'', using a vacuum to pull the plastic down around the form.

Materials needed to create the vacuum-former include:

* Wood Strips
* Pegboard (2' x 4')
* Plywood
* Shop Vac or similar

Sizes are not critical - the available space in the oven will determine the maximum final size of any pieces formed - so the unit should be built slightly larger than that.

[[Image:vac-form-1.png|500px]]

Create a box using the wood strips and plywood, and caulk it to make it airtight.

[[Image:vac-form-2.png|500px]]

Drill a hole the same size as the intake hose on your vacuum in the side or bottom of the box, and attach the pegboard to the top of the box. When you place your form on top of the box, then the heated plastic, the vacuum will draw the heated plastic down.

Using an old picture frame, or a cheap one from IKEA, trim your plastic sheet to the same size and heat the plastic in the frame in the oven at 375 degrees, until it just starts to droop. Placing the frame and plastic on oven-safe jars will prevent it from touching the racks or surface of the oven if it should droop too far.

In this photo, the extra airholes are blocked by poster board to maintain the airtight seal.

[[Image:vac-form-3.png|500px]]

When creating forms, it is important to remember that it must be possible to cleanly remove the form once the process is complete, so things to avoid include:

* Large vertical surfaces
* Vertical holes

The best form is a pyramid shape, with the smallest details on top and increasing diameters to the base. Consider using a '''releasing agent''' to make removing the form easier - a non-stick spray or lubricant for example.

Creating the form itself can be done using foamcore, wood and bondo, aluminum or steel, depending on your available tools and ability. The smoother your initial form, the clearer your final pieces will be.

=== Welding ===

If you plan on making metal ramps or wireforms, welding will be required.

In order of quality, here are your welding options:

* '''TIG''': ''Tungsten Inert Gas'' arc welding is often employed to make welds on nickel alloys (like stainless steel), magnesium, aluminum, titanium and copper alloys. TIG welds can be made with or without metal fillers, unlike MIG welding, which exclusively employs filler metals to create welds.
** Pros: Pinpoints heat better than MIG welding, allowing for smaller, more precise welding, is a very clean process, creating no spatter whatsoever while a weld is being made.
** Cons: TIG welders are more expensive than MIG welders, and it is a more difficult process to master.
* '''MIG''': ''Metal Inert Gas'' arc welding is most often used with steel. MIG welders do not have to start and stop too often while welding, which allows for long, uninterrupted welds. Gas shields the weld, helping to prevent oxidation and spatter.
** Pros: Relatively clean, creating only a little spatter while welds are made, easier for beginners.
** Cons: Possibility of excessive melt-through and incomplete joint penetration or fusion, can be difficult to create a starting arc, welds are known to leave deposits that are heavily oxidized.
* '''Flux Core Wire Feed''': Arc welding without the shielding gas. Uses flux, similar to soldering, to flow metal.
** Pros: Cheapest form of MIG welding as it doesn't require compressed gas.
** Cons: More likely to produce dirty welds due to lack of shielding.
* '''Brazing''': Can be done with hand tools, but it requires a lot of heat for a long period of time in one spot, which weakens the surrounding steel. This makes it more susceptible to warping and bending due to stress. It can work, but it is not nearly as strong as MIG.

=== Wireforms ===

(From Matthew Bonnema's [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=959.0 Tutorial] on Wireform Fabrication)

One standard convention on modern pinball machines are wireform ramps. They can be made out of '''1/8" steel wire''' which can be purchased at most big box stores. If you don't have access or the skill to use welding equipment, wireform ramps can be fabricated from brass rods and soldered together using a small torch, flux, and solder. Spooky's America's Most Haunted was prototyped this way not only because Ben Heck was already used to soldering, but because brass is a little easier to form than low carbon steel.

==== Spacers ====

Spacers help to keep the proper distance between two rails in a wireform while it is being constructed. They can also be used for welding braces. A fair number of these will be needed - two or three per curve - plus a few oversized ones to allow for the grounding clamp from the welder if you're using one.

To make them, just measure the ball and figure out where you want the ball to ride in the rail, then drill two holes the same size as the stock you are planning on using.

[[Image:wireform-7.jpg|500px]]

Slide the spacers on and match the other wires bends carefully. Make sure to only bend the new wire and not the guide wire.

[[Image:wireform-8.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-9.jpg|500px]]

Use 16 and 20 gauge sheet metal for the spacers - 20 for tight bends and 16 for straightaways. It is easier to slide the 20 gauge down the curves.

If skinning wireforms, put supports on the under side to make them stronger. You can construct ramps by welding sheet metal over the tops of the rails at the ball entry points.

[[Image:wireform-10.jpg|500px]]

==== Loops ====

Loops are useful as entrance and exit points, and cut down can be used as bracing.

Take a piece of 1" PVC pipe and drill a hole centered on the pipe all the way through, roughly the same size of the stock that you intend to use.

[[Image:wireform-1.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-2.jpg|500px]]

Insert the stock all the way through and wrap it around really tightly. It will spring back a little, but if you are using a standard size pinball, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep the tension consistent all the way through the wrap.

[[Image:wireform-3.jpg|500px]]

With an '''Angle Grinder''' with '''Metal Cutting''' disc, cut as close to the initial bend to get as many loops as you can with out getting any of the curve in the cut.

'''''Take caution! This is a dangerous tool!'''''

[[Image:wireform-4.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-5.jpg|500px]]

A simple way to get really nice and easy loops. Bolt cutters, shears, a hacksaw, or wire cutters capable of cutting the wire you are using can also be used as an alternative to the angle grinder, although the loop ends will not be as clean. Free the loop of wire by pulling down on it slightly and clipping off the bent leg that goes through the pipe. Clip or saw each ring off, using the edge of the last ring cut as a guide.

[[Image:wireform-6.jpg|500px]]

Create supports by cutting the rings in half to make the supports. A large '''Side Cutter''' makes cutting the 1/8" steel stock easy and fast - just make sure to hold on to both pieces because they can fly apart. Eyeball guessing for the center on the rings is fine, but for consistency, measure for center.

[[Image:wireform-14.jpg|500px]]

==== Drawings ====

After making spacers and loops, the best starting point is using drawings made in one of the [[Design#Design_Software|drawing tools]] mentioned in the Design section. Match the form to the full-size 2D drawing during construction.

[[Image:wireform-drawing.jpg|500px]]

==== Welding ====

Cut a straight piece of stock, place it on the end of the rail and weld it up with a good tack. This will stop the wireform from twisting out of shape while putting the supports on. Use '''Welding Magnets''' (Usually about $3 each from most hardware stores) to hold the wire in position.

[[Image:wireform-15.jpg|500px]]

Clamp the ground for the welder to one of the jigs - you get a good, dependable circuit and it won't mess you up when you move it.

[[Image:wireform-16.jpg|500px]]

Time to weld!

Only weld with a '''Welding Helmet''' that is tight and won't fall off. If using a '''auto-darkening''' helmet, test its function before starting to weld. It should darken from the spark of a lighter.

[[Image:wireform-17.jpg|500px]]

First test the feed of the welder by pushing the button and watching how smooth the wire comes out. Having a jumpy feed can ruin a weld pretty fast. Then trim the wire to a comfortable length.

If the wire is too long, it will make spatter all over, while if too short, it could miss the joint and/or clog up the tip of the welder.

[[Image:wireform-18.jpg|500px]]

A good weld has clear signs of even heating and penetration through both parent metals (the grayish circle that surrounds the weld).

The bad weld example was done by having the wire overfed or having the wand to far from the surface. This creates a large amount of spatter, which on pinball rails is difficult to clean up due to the sizing.

It also has a distinct noise when done incorrectly - it sounds like bacon popping. A good weld has a consistent buzz sound.

[[Image:wireform-19.jpg|500px]]

After measuring where you want each support to go on the wireform, flip the rail over and set a half ring that was cut earlier across the two rails, using a magnet to hold it in place.

Make sure the ring is lined up with both sides of the rail. It should flow with curves and should be evenly placed.

[[Image:wireform-20.jpg|500px]]

A good welding technique to use is called '''Pushing the puddle'''. It is basically starting on the thicker material and pushing the molten puddle back into the thinner cross material.

==== Top Rail ====

With all the supports are welded, it's time for the top rails.

Take the PVC pipe used to make the rings from earlier and mount it to your workbench. Put the stock where the bend should be under the pipe and pull up, keeping a lot of force at the base.

[[Image:wireform-21.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-22.jpg|500px]]

Take the bent stock and lay it across the rail. Mark where it should get the first welds.

[[Image:wireform-23.jpg|500px]]

Go down the entire length of the wireform, bending the top rail wire by hand as close as possible to the form without welding. Welding and bending one after the other would cause the areas that have been welded to be much softer from the heat of the weld. This is called '''Annealing''', and your top rail bends will not match the cold bended main rail.

[[Image:wireform-24.jpg|500px]]

==== Finishing ====

Every now and then, bring your wireform back to the machine and test fit to make sure it is not getting warped from the heat of the welder.

[[Image:wireform-12.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-13.jpg|500px]]

During the fitting, mark areas for adding supports to hold the wireform.

After all the welding is complete, quickly run the whole wireform on a '''Fine Finishing Wire Wheel''' to clean it up and ready it for powdercoating or plating.

To see these parts powder coated and installed, see the ''DeadPin'' machine in the [[Custom_Games]] section.

=== Stencil Cutter ===

A '''Stencil Cutter''' is similar to a computer printer, except instead of printing it uses a small blade to cut paper, cardstock, vinyl, fabric, and other material. A good quality unit is the '''[http://www.silhouetteamerica.com/shop/machines/cameo Sihouette Cameo]''', available from Amazon.

There are two steps to creating quality stencils:

* The stencil material to cut with the Cameo
* The transfer tape used to transfer the weeded stencil to the part being painted

''Weeding'' is the process where you remove the parts of the cut stencil you don't need. The best material to use is '''[http://cricketvinylsupplies.com/gerbermask-I-ultra-stencil-film-paint-mask-14-x-1-yd Gerber 15 SM-4 Gerbermask 1 ULTRA]''' as it is thick enough to not clog the Cameo but allows for very fine detail. This is a medium tack pressure sensitive stencil material that has a slightly grainy white surface. It has a pressure-sensitive adhesive designed to work with a float solution like water with dish soap.

For the transfer tape, use '''[http://www.uscutter.com/RTape-Clear-Choice-AT65-All-Purpose-Medium-Tack-Application-Tape-100yd RTape Clear Choice AT65]''' which is a good general-purpose medium tack tape.

If working with an existing part, use a scanner to get a 1:1 image of the item to allow for vector tracing. Then bring the scan into a vector editor like '''Illustrator''' or '''Inkscape''', and create the vector outline of where the cuts should be made for the stencil.

[[Image:stencil-cut-1.jpg|300px]]

Once the vector is complete, the drawing can be imported into the ''Silhouette'' software bundled with the cutter to create a cut plot.

[[Image:stencil-cut-2.jpg|300px]]

At that point, the stencil can be cut and weeded.

[[Image:stencil-cut-3.jpg|300px]]

Apply the transfer tape to the stencil material, which allows it to be peeled off the backing and then applied to the surface to be painted.

[[Image:stencil-cut-4.jpg|300px]]

Pull the transfer tape off, leaving the stencil in place.

[[Image:stencil-cut-5.jpg|300px]]

At this point the part can be painted. Once the stencil is removed, the finished part is ready for installation.

[[Image:stencil-cut-6.jpg|300px]]

=== Ball Guides ===

Ball guides can be made from 18ga or 16ga stainless steel. Older Gottlieb guides were measured at 18ga, whereas some newer guides are 16ga. Heights for ball guides are typically no shorter than 1-1/8" (28.575mm).

You can buy some pre-cut guides from [https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-ball-guide-kit/ Mantis Amusements], '''Stainless 304''' cut to size from [http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=717&step=4&showunits=inches&id=30&top_cat=1 Online Metals] and '''Stainless 316''' strip from [https://www.mcmaster.com/#9090k1/=16kggof McMaster-Carr].

Files Section

2018-11-09T23:21:38Z

Jwilson: /* 3D templates */

== Notice ==

Files located in this section are provided by Pinball Makers users and are not tested and/or confirmed to be accurate, so use them at your own risk.

If you are aware of any specific files being inaccurate or broken, please contact the administrators.

== Parts Lists ==

Molex KK Series connectors parts list: [[Media:molex-connectors.pdf]]

== Diagrams ==

Drawings and other diagrams with dimensions not in CAD format.

=== Cabinet ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:wpc-backbox-1.png|200px]]
|WPC Backbox (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-backbox-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-1.png|200px]]
|WPC full cabinet cut guide for 4" x 8" plywood
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-2.png|200px]]
|WPC Main cabinet side and back (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-2.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-3.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-3.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-4.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front for multiple ball launchers (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-4.png]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Upper 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper 3-6-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Head PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Lower 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower 4-13-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Lower PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower.pdf]]
|}

=== Playfield ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:williams-lower-playfield.png|200px]]
|WPC lower playfield dimensions (millimeter)
|[[Media:williams-lower-playfield.png]]
|-
|[[Image:williams-early-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early Solid State lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Williams_early_SS_c_size.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:stern-lower-pf.jpg|200px]]
|Stern lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Stern_c_size.pdf]]
|}

=== Devices ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough-diagram.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough (6-Ball)
|[[Media:6balltrough.ai]]
|}

== Schematics ==

Files for EagleCAD or general electronic schematics.

=== Original Equipment ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:gottlieb-system-3-image.png|200px]]
|Gottlieb System 3 Driver Board
|[[Media:gottlieb-system-3.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-sw.png|200px]]
|WPC Switch Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-sw.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-lamp.png|200px]]
|WPC Lamp Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-lamp.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-solenoid.png|200px]]
|WPC Solenoid design
|[[Media:wpc-solenoid.pdf]]
|}

== 2D CAD Drawings ==

For use in AutoCAD or DraftSight when doing playfield layout.

=== Playfields ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Williams_playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield
|[[Media:Williams_playfield.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:Williams_Playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield for Sketchup
|[[Media:Williams_Blank_Playfield.skp]]
|-
|[[Image:bally-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Bally SS Blank Playfield
|[[Media:bally-blank.dwg]]
|}

=== Ball Guides ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-inlane-guide.png|200px]]
|Ball Inlane Guide
|[[Media:Ball Inlane Guide (left) - 550-5037-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-lane-guide-top.png|200px]]
|Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided (03-7034) and Star Posts (03-8319) w/5-16 in rubber
|[[Media:Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided - 03-7034 - and Star Posts - 03-8319 w 5-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-1-7-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 1 7/8" (530-5005-00) with 7/16" OD Mini Post Rubber (23-6694-1)
|[[Media:Metal Post 1 7-8 in tall 530-5005-00 w 7-16 in OD Mini Post Rubber 23-6694-1.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-2-1-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 2 1/8" (530-5332-01) with Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1/16"
|[[Media:Metal Post 2 1-8 in tall 530-5332-01 w Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1-16 in.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:plastic-post.png|200px]]
|Narrow Plastic Post (03-8365) with 3/16" rubber
|[[Media:Narrow Plastic Post 03-8365 w 3-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spade-bolt.png|200px]]
|Spade Bolt (Offset)
|[[Media:Spade Bolt (Offset).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:star-post.png|200px]]
|Star Post (03-8319)
|[[Media:Star Post - 03-8319.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:shooter-lane.jpg|200px]]
|Shooter Lane Insert
|[[Media:shooter-lane.dwg]]
|}

=== Coil Assemblies ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-launcher.png|200px]]
|Ball Launcher (500-5477-01)
|[[Media:Ball Launcher 500-5477-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball (500-6119-14) and Enter Exit Scoop (535-7329-01)
|[[Media:Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball 500-6119-14 Enter Exit Scoop 535-7329-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-left.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/left mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Left).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-right.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/right mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Right).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-1.png|200px]]
|Magnet Bracket (A-15257) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Magnet Bracket A-15257 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-2.png|200px]]
|Threaded Core Weld Assembly (515-6141-01) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Threaded Core Weld Assembly 515-6141-01 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper.png|200px]]
|Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally
|[[Media:Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:slingshot-assembly.png|200px]]
|Slingshot Assembly (500-5849-00)
|[[Media:Slingshot Assembly - 500-5849-00.dwg]]
|}

=== Inserts ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Arrow
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Arrow.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Rectangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Rectangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-ro.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-t.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Triangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Triangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-5-8.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 5/8" Oval
|[[Media:Insert_1_5-8_in_Oval.dwg]]
|-
|}

=== Lights ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:socket-l.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Long (077-5005-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Long 077-5005-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-1.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5002-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5002-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-2.png|200px]]
|89 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5101-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5101-00.dwg]]
|}
=== Switches ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Switch and Bracket (A-12688)
|[[Media:Rollover Switch and Bracket A-12688.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spinner-assembly.png|200px]]
|Spinner Assembly (A-21801-2)
|[[Media:Spinner Assembly A-21801-2.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4)
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-2.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 2
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 2).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-3.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 3
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 3).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:5-target-bank.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Bank of 5
|[[Media:Drop Target Bank of 5.dwg]]
|}

== 3D templates ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:p3-mount-lr.png|200px]]
|General P3-ROC Mounting Brackets - L/R (Coleman Martin)
|[[File:p3-mount-left.stl]] / [[File:p3-mount-right.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:cssc-spacer.png|200px]]
|Computer Startup Shutdown Controller Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:cssc-spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:p3roc-spacer.png|200px]]
|P3-ROC Mounting Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:p3rocspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sw16-spacer.png|200px]]
|SW16 Mounting Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:sw16spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd16-spacer.png|200px]]
|PD16 Mounting Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:pd16spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd-led-spacer.png|200px]]
|PD-LED Mounting Bracket - Horizontal (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:pd-ledspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd16-v-spacer.png|200px]]
||PD-LED Mounting Bracket - Vertical (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:pd-led-vspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template
|[[File:pop-bumper-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template-center.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template Center Holes
|[[File:pop-bumper-template-center.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template
|[[File:slingshot-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template-center.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template Center Holes
|[[File:sling-template-center.stl]]
|}

== Off the shelf parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.png|200px]]
|555 Lamp Socket 077-5030-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Staple Down F1P-E-12-07-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield F1P-E-12-06-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (Bally E-120-81)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.PNG|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Flush (Bally E-120-99)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Bally E-120-162)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Possibly Bally E-120-84)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket A-8798.png|200px]]
|89 Lamp Socket A-8798
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket A-8798.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Led bulb.jpg|200px]]
|LED bulb
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Led bulb.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:WPC Trough.png|200px]]
|WPC Trough Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Trough.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SHooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.png|200px]]
|Shooter lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Shooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Pop Bumper ASSY B-9414.png|200px]]
|WPC Pop Bumper Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Pop Bumper Assy B-9414.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target Sys11.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS11
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 bank Sys11 Drop Target Bank.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.png|200px]]
|5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 03-8033.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Wedge Top
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 03-8033.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.png|200px]]
|Kicker Arm Slingshot Assembly B-12665
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Kickout Hole SYS7.png|200px]]
|Kickout Hole Sys 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kickout Hole SYS7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Switch Rollover - Sys7.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Switch Sys7
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Switch Rollover - Sys7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover Lane Switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Microswitch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover Lane Switch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 002 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 002
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 002 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 003 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 003
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 003 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 004 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 004
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 004 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 005 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 005
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 005 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post PL-00172-OT.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1" - PL-00172-OT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post PL-00172-OT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-1/16"" - 03-8319-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-3/16"" - 03-8370-10
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/2" 03-8130-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post .png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/16" 03-8247-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20 .png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1" C-11561-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1-3/16" C-11562-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4 .png|200px]]
|Post 1" Concentric Fin C-951-4
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7 .png|200px]]
|Post 1-1/8" Concentric Fin C-952-7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02 .png|200px]]
|Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056 .png|200px]]
|Bumper Post 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at Top 02-4056
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 8-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 10-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.png|200px]]
|Post-Dual Ring 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at top 02-4423
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0001.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-5/8"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0001.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0002.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-1/2"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0002.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rubber Post Cap.png|200px]]
|Rubber Post Cap
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rubber Post Cap.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.png|200px]]
|1" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/16" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.png|200px]]
|5/8" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.png|200px]]
|3/4" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.png|200px]]
|3/4" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.png|200px]]
|1" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-1/2" Rectangular Insert - "Grid" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-5/8" Oval Insert
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.png|200px]]
|1-3/6"" Triangular Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/4 x 3/4"" Diamond Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-112TGT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.png|200px]]
|2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-T2RT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.png|200px]]
|2-1/2" Arrow Insert - 03-8359-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lightning_insert.jpg|200px]]
|Lightning Insert - PI-3-LO
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Lightning_insert.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover C-901.png|200px]]
|Rollover Insert C-901
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover C-9901.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide 03-8318-25
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.ZIP]]
|-
|[[Image:Stern-spinner-511-5113-00.jpg|200px]]
|Stern Spinner 511-5113-00
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Stern-511-5113-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Gate Assy 0001.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly -
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Gate Assy 0001.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Assembly WPC.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly WPC (coil is incorrect)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Assembly WPC.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 2inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 2 Inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 2inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 3inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 3 inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 3inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:03-7568 flipper bushing.jpg|200px]]
|Bally / Williams Bushing
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:03-7568 flipper bushing SW.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Opto Base MTG.png|200px]]
|Opto Base Mounting
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Opto Base MTG.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:PF Test1.PNG|200px]]
|Test PF shooter lane cut
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Test PF 1.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_williams_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Inlane
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane_williams_plastic.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_de-sega-stern_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Data East / SEGA / Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane DE-sega-stern.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Apron_stern.jpg|200px]]
| Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Apron stern.SLDPRT]]
|}

== Non Standard Parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Wireform bracket.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable wireform bracket to be used with any 1/8" round material (ABS, steel, polyethylene tubing, etc)
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Wireform bracket.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Loop_da_loop_ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable loop da loop ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Loop_da_loop_ramp.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Vertical loop ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable vertical loopback ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Vertical loop ramp.SLDPRT]]
|}

File:P3-mount-right.stl

2018-11-09T23:21:22Z

Jwilson:

File:P3-mount-left.stl

2018-11-09T23:21:01Z

Jwilson:

File:P3-mount-lr.png

2018-11-09T23:20:34Z

Jwilson:

Files Section

2018-11-07T16:51:08Z

Jwilson: /* 3D templates */

== Notice ==

Files located in this section are provided by Pinball Makers users and are not tested and/or confirmed to be accurate, so use them at your own risk.

If you are aware of any specific files being inaccurate or broken, please contact the administrators.

== Parts Lists ==

Molex KK Series connectors parts list: [[Media:molex-connectors.pdf]]

== Diagrams ==

Drawings and other diagrams with dimensions not in CAD format.

=== Cabinet ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:wpc-backbox-1.png|200px]]
|WPC Backbox (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-backbox-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-1.png|200px]]
|WPC full cabinet cut guide for 4" x 8" plywood
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-2.png|200px]]
|WPC Main cabinet side and back (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-2.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-3.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-3.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-4.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front for multiple ball launchers (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-4.png]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Upper 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper 3-6-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Head PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Lower 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower 4-13-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Lower PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower.pdf]]
|}

=== Playfield ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:williams-lower-playfield.png|200px]]
|WPC lower playfield dimensions (millimeter)
|[[Media:williams-lower-playfield.png]]
|-
|[[Image:williams-early-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early Solid State lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Williams_early_SS_c_size.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:stern-lower-pf.jpg|200px]]
|Stern lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Stern_c_size.pdf]]
|}

=== Devices ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough-diagram.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough (6-Ball)
|[[Media:6balltrough.ai]]
|}

== Schematics ==

Files for EagleCAD or general electronic schematics.

=== Original Equipment ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:gottlieb-system-3-image.png|200px]]
|Gottlieb System 3 Driver Board
|[[Media:gottlieb-system-3.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-sw.png|200px]]
|WPC Switch Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-sw.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-lamp.png|200px]]
|WPC Lamp Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-lamp.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-solenoid.png|200px]]
|WPC Solenoid design
|[[Media:wpc-solenoid.pdf]]
|}

== 2D CAD Drawings ==

For use in AutoCAD or DraftSight when doing playfield layout.

=== Playfields ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Williams_playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield
|[[Media:Williams_playfield.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:Williams_Playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield for Sketchup
|[[Media:Williams_Blank_Playfield.skp]]
|-
|[[Image:bally-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Bally SS Blank Playfield
|[[Media:bally-blank.dwg]]
|}

=== Ball Guides ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-inlane-guide.png|200px]]
|Ball Inlane Guide
|[[Media:Ball Inlane Guide (left) - 550-5037-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-lane-guide-top.png|200px]]
|Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided (03-7034) and Star Posts (03-8319) w/5-16 in rubber
|[[Media:Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided - 03-7034 - and Star Posts - 03-8319 w 5-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-1-7-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 1 7/8" (530-5005-00) with 7/16" OD Mini Post Rubber (23-6694-1)
|[[Media:Metal Post 1 7-8 in tall 530-5005-00 w 7-16 in OD Mini Post Rubber 23-6694-1.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-2-1-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 2 1/8" (530-5332-01) with Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1/16"
|[[Media:Metal Post 2 1-8 in tall 530-5332-01 w Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1-16 in.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:plastic-post.png|200px]]
|Narrow Plastic Post (03-8365) with 3/16" rubber
|[[Media:Narrow Plastic Post 03-8365 w 3-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spade-bolt.png|200px]]
|Spade Bolt (Offset)
|[[Media:Spade Bolt (Offset).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:star-post.png|200px]]
|Star Post (03-8319)
|[[Media:Star Post - 03-8319.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:shooter-lane.jpg|200px]]
|Shooter Lane Insert
|[[Media:shooter-lane.dwg]]
|}

=== Coil Assemblies ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-launcher.png|200px]]
|Ball Launcher (500-5477-01)
|[[Media:Ball Launcher 500-5477-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball (500-6119-14) and Enter Exit Scoop (535-7329-01)
|[[Media:Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball 500-6119-14 Enter Exit Scoop 535-7329-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-left.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/left mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Left).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-right.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/right mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Right).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-1.png|200px]]
|Magnet Bracket (A-15257) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Magnet Bracket A-15257 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-2.png|200px]]
|Threaded Core Weld Assembly (515-6141-01) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Threaded Core Weld Assembly 515-6141-01 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper.png|200px]]
|Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally
|[[Media:Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:slingshot-assembly.png|200px]]
|Slingshot Assembly (500-5849-00)
|[[Media:Slingshot Assembly - 500-5849-00.dwg]]
|}

=== Inserts ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Arrow
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Arrow.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Rectangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Rectangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-ro.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-t.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Triangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Triangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-5-8.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 5/8" Oval
|[[Media:Insert_1_5-8_in_Oval.dwg]]
|-
|}

=== Lights ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:socket-l.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Long (077-5005-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Long 077-5005-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-1.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5002-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5002-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-2.png|200px]]
|89 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5101-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5101-00.dwg]]
|}
=== Switches ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Switch and Bracket (A-12688)
|[[Media:Rollover Switch and Bracket A-12688.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spinner-assembly.png|200px]]
|Spinner Assembly (A-21801-2)
|[[Media:Spinner Assembly A-21801-2.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4)
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-2.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 2
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 2).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-3.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 3
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 3).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:5-target-bank.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Bank of 5
|[[Media:Drop Target Bank of 5.dwg]]
|}

== 3D templates ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:cssc-spacer.png|200px]]
|Computer Startup Shutdown Controller Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:cssc-spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:p3roc-spacer.png|200px]]
|P3-ROC Mounting Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:p3rocspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sw16-spacer.png|200px]]
|SW16 Mounting Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:sw16spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd16-spacer.png|200px]]
|PD16 Mounting Bracket (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:pd16spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd-led-spacer.png|200px]]
|PD-LED Mounting Bracket - Horizontal (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:pd-ledspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd16-v-spacer.png|200px]]
||PD-LED Mounting Bracket - Vertical (Scott Danesi)
|[[File:pd-led-vspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template
|[[File:pop-bumper-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template-center.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template Center Holes
|[[File:pop-bumper-template-center.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template
|[[File:slingshot-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template-center.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template Center Holes
|[[File:sling-template-center.stl]]
|}

== Off the shelf parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.png|200px]]
|555 Lamp Socket 077-5030-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Staple Down F1P-E-12-07-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield F1P-E-12-06-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (Bally E-120-81)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.PNG|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Flush (Bally E-120-99)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Bally E-120-162)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Possibly Bally E-120-84)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket A-8798.png|200px]]
|89 Lamp Socket A-8798
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket A-8798.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Led bulb.jpg|200px]]
|LED bulb
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Led bulb.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:WPC Trough.png|200px]]
|WPC Trough Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Trough.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SHooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.png|200px]]
|Shooter lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Shooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Pop Bumper ASSY B-9414.png|200px]]
|WPC Pop Bumper Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Pop Bumper Assy B-9414.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target Sys11.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS11
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 bank Sys11 Drop Target Bank.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.png|200px]]
|5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 03-8033.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Wedge Top
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 03-8033.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.png|200px]]
|Kicker Arm Slingshot Assembly B-12665
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Kickout Hole SYS7.png|200px]]
|Kickout Hole Sys 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kickout Hole SYS7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Switch Rollover - Sys7.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Switch Sys7
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Switch Rollover - Sys7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover Lane Switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Microswitch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover Lane Switch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 002 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 002
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 002 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 003 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 003
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 003 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 004 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 004
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 004 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 005 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 005
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 005 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post PL-00172-OT.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1" - PL-00172-OT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post PL-00172-OT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-1/16"" - 03-8319-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-3/16"" - 03-8370-10
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/2" 03-8130-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post .png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/16" 03-8247-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20 .png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1" C-11561-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1-3/16" C-11562-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4 .png|200px]]
|Post 1" Concentric Fin C-951-4
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7 .png|200px]]
|Post 1-1/8" Concentric Fin C-952-7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02 .png|200px]]
|Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056 .png|200px]]
|Bumper Post 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at Top 02-4056
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 8-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 10-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.png|200px]]
|Post-Dual Ring 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at top 02-4423
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0001.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-5/8"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0001.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0002.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-1/2"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0002.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rubber Post Cap.png|200px]]
|Rubber Post Cap
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rubber Post Cap.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.png|200px]]
|1" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/16" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.png|200px]]
|5/8" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.png|200px]]
|3/4" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.png|200px]]
|3/4" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.png|200px]]
|1" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-1/2" Rectangular Insert - "Grid" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-5/8" Oval Insert
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.png|200px]]
|1-3/6"" Triangular Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/4 x 3/4"" Diamond Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-112TGT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.png|200px]]
|2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-T2RT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.png|200px]]
|2-1/2" Arrow Insert - 03-8359-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lightning_insert.jpg|200px]]
|Lightning Insert - PI-3-LO
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Lightning_insert.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover C-901.png|200px]]
|Rollover Insert C-901
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover C-9901.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide 03-8318-25
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.ZIP]]
|-
|[[Image:Stern-spinner-511-5113-00.jpg|200px]]
|Stern Spinner 511-5113-00
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Stern-511-5113-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Gate Assy 0001.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly -
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Gate Assy 0001.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Assembly WPC.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly WPC (coil is incorrect)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Assembly WPC.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 2inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 2 Inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 2inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 3inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 3 inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 3inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:03-7568 flipper bushing.jpg|200px]]
|Bally / Williams Bushing
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:03-7568 flipper bushing SW.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Opto Base MTG.png|200px]]
|Opto Base Mounting
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Opto Base MTG.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:PF Test1.PNG|200px]]
|Test PF shooter lane cut
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Test PF 1.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_williams_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Inlane
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane_williams_plastic.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_de-sega-stern_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Data East / SEGA / Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane DE-sega-stern.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Apron_stern.jpg|200px]]
| Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Apron stern.SLDPRT]]
|}

== Non Standard Parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Wireform bracket.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable wireform bracket to be used with any 1/8" round material (ABS, steel, polyethylene tubing, etc)
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Wireform bracket.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Loop_da_loop_ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable loop da loop ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Loop_da_loop_ramp.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Vertical loop ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable vertical loopback ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Vertical loop ramp.SLDPRT]]
|}

Files Section

2018-11-07T16:48:14Z

Jwilson: /* 3D templates */

== Notice ==

Files located in this section are provided by Pinball Makers users and are not tested and/or confirmed to be accurate, so use them at your own risk.

If you are aware of any specific files being inaccurate or broken, please contact the administrators.

== Parts Lists ==

Molex KK Series connectors parts list: [[Media:molex-connectors.pdf]]

== Diagrams ==

Drawings and other diagrams with dimensions not in CAD format.

=== Cabinet ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:wpc-backbox-1.png|200px]]
|WPC Backbox (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-backbox-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-1.png|200px]]
|WPC full cabinet cut guide for 4" x 8" plywood
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-2.png|200px]]
|WPC Main cabinet side and back (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-2.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-3.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-3.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-4.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front for multiple ball launchers (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-4.png]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Upper 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper 3-6-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Head PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Lower 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower 4-13-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Lower PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower.pdf]]
|}

=== Playfield ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:williams-lower-playfield.png|200px]]
|WPC lower playfield dimensions (millimeter)
|[[Media:williams-lower-playfield.png]]
|-
|[[Image:williams-early-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early Solid State lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Williams_early_SS_c_size.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:stern-lower-pf.jpg|200px]]
|Stern lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Stern_c_size.pdf]]
|}

=== Devices ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough-diagram.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough (6-Ball)
|[[Media:6balltrough.ai]]
|}

== Schematics ==

Files for EagleCAD or general electronic schematics.

=== Original Equipment ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:gottlieb-system-3-image.png|200px]]
|Gottlieb System 3 Driver Board
|[[Media:gottlieb-system-3.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-sw.png|200px]]
|WPC Switch Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-sw.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-lamp.png|200px]]
|WPC Lamp Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-lamp.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-solenoid.png|200px]]
|WPC Solenoid design
|[[Media:wpc-solenoid.pdf]]
|}

== 2D CAD Drawings ==

For use in AutoCAD or DraftSight when doing playfield layout.

=== Playfields ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Williams_playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield
|[[Media:Williams_playfield.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:Williams_Playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield for Sketchup
|[[Media:Williams_Blank_Playfield.skp]]
|-
|[[Image:bally-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Bally SS Blank Playfield
|[[Media:bally-blank.dwg]]
|}

=== Ball Guides ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-inlane-guide.png|200px]]
|Ball Inlane Guide
|[[Media:Ball Inlane Guide (left) - 550-5037-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-lane-guide-top.png|200px]]
|Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided (03-7034) and Star Posts (03-8319) w/5-16 in rubber
|[[Media:Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided - 03-7034 - and Star Posts - 03-8319 w 5-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-1-7-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 1 7/8" (530-5005-00) with 7/16" OD Mini Post Rubber (23-6694-1)
|[[Media:Metal Post 1 7-8 in tall 530-5005-00 w 7-16 in OD Mini Post Rubber 23-6694-1.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-2-1-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 2 1/8" (530-5332-01) with Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1/16"
|[[Media:Metal Post 2 1-8 in tall 530-5332-01 w Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1-16 in.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:plastic-post.png|200px]]
|Narrow Plastic Post (03-8365) with 3/16" rubber
|[[Media:Narrow Plastic Post 03-8365 w 3-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spade-bolt.png|200px]]
|Spade Bolt (Offset)
|[[Media:Spade Bolt (Offset).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:star-post.png|200px]]
|Star Post (03-8319)
|[[Media:Star Post - 03-8319.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:shooter-lane.jpg|200px]]
|Shooter Lane Insert
|[[Media:shooter-lane.dwg]]
|}

=== Coil Assemblies ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-launcher.png|200px]]
|Ball Launcher (500-5477-01)
|[[Media:Ball Launcher 500-5477-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball (500-6119-14) and Enter Exit Scoop (535-7329-01)
|[[Media:Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball 500-6119-14 Enter Exit Scoop 535-7329-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-left.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/left mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Left).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-right.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/right mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Right).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-1.png|200px]]
|Magnet Bracket (A-15257) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Magnet Bracket A-15257 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-2.png|200px]]
|Threaded Core Weld Assembly (515-6141-01) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Threaded Core Weld Assembly 515-6141-01 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper.png|200px]]
|Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally
|[[Media:Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:slingshot-assembly.png|200px]]
|Slingshot Assembly (500-5849-00)
|[[Media:Slingshot Assembly - 500-5849-00.dwg]]
|}

=== Inserts ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Arrow
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Arrow.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Rectangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Rectangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-ro.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-t.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Triangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Triangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-5-8.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 5/8" Oval
|[[Media:Insert_1_5-8_in_Oval.dwg]]
|-
|}

=== Lights ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:socket-l.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Long (077-5005-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Long 077-5005-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-1.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5002-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5002-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-2.png|200px]]
|89 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5101-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5101-00.dwg]]
|}
=== Switches ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Switch and Bracket (A-12688)
|[[Media:Rollover Switch and Bracket A-12688.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spinner-assembly.png|200px]]
|Spinner Assembly (A-21801-2)
|[[Media:Spinner Assembly A-21801-2.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4)
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-2.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 2
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 2).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-3.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 3
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 3).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:5-target-bank.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Bank of 5
|[[Media:Drop Target Bank of 5.dwg]]
|}

== 3D templates ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:cssc-spacer.png|200px]]
|Computer Startup Shutdown Controller Bracket
|[[File:cssc-spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:p3roc-spacer.png|200px]]
|P3-ROC Mounting Bracket
|[[File:p3rocspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sw16-spacer.png|200px]]
|SW16 Mounting Bracket
|[[File:sw16spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd16-spacer.png|200px]]
|PD16 Mounting Bracket
|[[File:pd16spacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd-led-spacer.png|200px]]
|PD-LED Mounting Bracket (Horizontal)
|[[File:pd-ledspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pd16-v-spacer.png|200px]]
||PD-LED Mounting Bracket (Vertical)
|[[File:pd-led-vspacer.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template
|[[File:pop-bumper-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template-center.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template Center Holes
|[[File:pop-bumper-template-center.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template
|[[File:slingshot-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template-center.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template Center Holes
|[[File:sling-template-center.stl]]
|}

== Off the shelf parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.png|200px]]
|555 Lamp Socket 077-5030-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Staple Down F1P-E-12-07-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield F1P-E-12-06-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (Bally E-120-81)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.PNG|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Flush (Bally E-120-99)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Bally E-120-162)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Possibly Bally E-120-84)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket A-8798.png|200px]]
|89 Lamp Socket A-8798
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket A-8798.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Led bulb.jpg|200px]]
|LED bulb
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Led bulb.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:WPC Trough.png|200px]]
|WPC Trough Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Trough.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SHooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.png|200px]]
|Shooter lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Shooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Pop Bumper ASSY B-9414.png|200px]]
|WPC Pop Bumper Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Pop Bumper Assy B-9414.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target Sys11.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS11
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 bank Sys11 Drop Target Bank.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.png|200px]]
|5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 03-8033.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Wedge Top
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 03-8033.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.png|200px]]
|Kicker Arm Slingshot Assembly B-12665
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Kickout Hole SYS7.png|200px]]
|Kickout Hole Sys 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kickout Hole SYS7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Switch Rollover - Sys7.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Switch Sys7
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Switch Rollover - Sys7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover Lane Switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Microswitch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover Lane Switch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 002 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 002
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 002 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 003 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 003
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 003 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 004 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 004
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 004 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 005 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 005
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 005 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post PL-00172-OT.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1" - PL-00172-OT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post PL-00172-OT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-1/16"" - 03-8319-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-3/16"" - 03-8370-10
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/2" 03-8130-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post .png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/16" 03-8247-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20 .png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1" C-11561-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1-3/16" C-11562-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4 .png|200px]]
|Post 1" Concentric Fin C-951-4
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7 .png|200px]]
|Post 1-1/8" Concentric Fin C-952-7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02 .png|200px]]
|Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056 .png|200px]]
|Bumper Post 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at Top 02-4056
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 8-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 10-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.png|200px]]
|Post-Dual Ring 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at top 02-4423
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0001.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-5/8"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0001.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0002.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-1/2"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0002.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rubber Post Cap.png|200px]]
|Rubber Post Cap
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rubber Post Cap.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.png|200px]]
|1" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/16" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.png|200px]]
|5/8" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.png|200px]]
|3/4" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.png|200px]]
|3/4" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.png|200px]]
|1" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-1/2" Rectangular Insert - "Grid" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-5/8" Oval Insert
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.png|200px]]
|1-3/6"" Triangular Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/4 x 3/4"" Diamond Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-112TGT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.png|200px]]
|2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-T2RT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.png|200px]]
|2-1/2" Arrow Insert - 03-8359-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lightning_insert.jpg|200px]]
|Lightning Insert - PI-3-LO
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Lightning_insert.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover C-901.png|200px]]
|Rollover Insert C-901
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover C-9901.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide 03-8318-25
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.ZIP]]
|-
|[[Image:Stern-spinner-511-5113-00.jpg|200px]]
|Stern Spinner 511-5113-00
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Stern-511-5113-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Gate Assy 0001.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly -
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Gate Assy 0001.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Assembly WPC.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly WPC (coil is incorrect)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Assembly WPC.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 2inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 2 Inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 2inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 3inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 3 inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 3inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:03-7568 flipper bushing.jpg|200px]]
|Bally / Williams Bushing
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:03-7568 flipper bushing SW.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Opto Base MTG.png|200px]]
|Opto Base Mounting
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Opto Base MTG.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:PF Test1.PNG|200px]]
|Test PF shooter lane cut
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Test PF 1.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_williams_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Inlane
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane_williams_plastic.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_de-sega-stern_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Data East / SEGA / Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane DE-sega-stern.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Apron_stern.jpg|200px]]
| Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Apron stern.SLDPRT]]
|}

== Non Standard Parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Wireform bracket.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable wireform bracket to be used with any 1/8" round material (ABS, steel, polyethylene tubing, etc)
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Wireform bracket.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Loop_da_loop_ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable loop da loop ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Loop_da_loop_ramp.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Vertical loop ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable vertical loopback ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Vertical loop ramp.SLDPRT]]
|}

File:Pd-led-vspacer.stl

2018-11-07T16:48:06Z

Jwilson:

File:Pd-ledspacer.stl

2018-11-07T16:47:51Z

Jwilson:

File:Pd16spacer.stl

2018-11-07T16:47:33Z

Jwilson:

File:P3rocspacer.stl

2018-11-07T16:47:07Z

Jwilson:

File:Sw16spacer.stl

2018-11-07T16:45:21Z

Jwilson:

File:Cssc-spacer.stl

2018-11-07T16:43:28Z

Jwilson:

File:Pd16-v-spacer.png

2018-11-07T16:40:03Z

Jwilson:

File:Pd-led-spacer.png

2018-11-07T16:39:40Z

Jwilson:

File:Pd16-spacer.png

2018-11-07T16:39:20Z

Jwilson:

File:Sw16-spacer.png

2018-11-07T16:38:57Z

Jwilson:

File:P3roc-spacer.png

2018-11-07T16:38:34Z

Jwilson:

File:Cssc-spacer.png

2018-11-07T16:38:12Z

Jwilson:

Construction

2018-10-14T14:46:43Z

Jwilson: /* Connectors */

== Tools ==

=== Specialty Tools ===

* '''[http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=59 Pop Bumper Drilling Template]''': For use when drilling the playfield for ''Williams''-style pop bumpers. Instructions for use [http://www.iobium.com/pop_bumper_drilling_template.htm here].
* '''Dupont KF2510 Crimper''': Usually priced under $20 on ebay, this connector crimper works incredibly well. Used with 100 mil spaced connectors, standard pinball molex connectors, and spade terminals. It has three different sizes for different connectors. The trick is to start the crimp so that the ratchet holds the connector in its teeth. Slip the wire in to the terminal, and then finish crushing the crimp. The crimps are nice and tight and hold the wires very securely.

=== Metalworking Tools ===

[[Image:tools-metal.jpg|700px]]

* A few different colored sharpies for marking cuts and bends
* 4 1/2" angle grinder for cutting and grinding
* Flap disc grinding pads of multiple grits
* Metal cutting blades for a grinder
* Safety glasses and gloves
* A bunch of different size C-clamps - at least one large and two big enough to clamp large items
* A Square
* Measuring tape
* Different sized ballpein hammers
* Drill bits for steel
* Center punch
* Blow Torch - MAP Gas works best, Propane as a second choice

A '''Metal Brake''' is useful for bending sheet steel to make brackets.

[[Image:metal-brake.jpg|500px]]

The above example is available from [http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch-metal-brake-with-stand-91012.html Harbor Freight].

[[Image:tabletop-brake.jpg]]

If space is at a premium, there are smaller [http://www.micromark.com/Mini-Metal-Shear-and-Brake,12375.html tabletop] versions as well.

[[Image:home-brake.jpg]]

If cost is an issue, you can [http://toolguyd.com/diy-sheet-metal-bending-brake/ make your own] from common hardware store parts.

=== Woodworking Tools ===

Beyond the standard [http://www.pinrestore.com/Tools.html hand tools] needed to create a machine from scratch, here are some additional tools:

[[Image:router.png]]

A '''Hand Router''' for creating insert and device holes in the playfield.

[[Image:jigsaw.png]]

A '''Table Jigsaw''' for cutting playfield plastics, or plexi for your initial whitewood inserts.

[[Image:sander.png]]

A '''Hand Sander''' to level the playfield. You should also have sand paper in various grits ranging from 180 up to 320, plus finer grits for final polishing.

[[Image:forstner-bit.png]]]

'''Forstner bits''' for drilling clean holes. Easier than using the router.

=== Cabinet Tools ===

[[Image:table-router.png]]

For cabinet building, a table router with '''Locking Mitre''' bits.

[[Image:mitre-bit.png]]

It is a bit that creates a locking edge between cabinet corners.

=== Rotisserie ===
While not a necessity, it makes populating a playfield much easier (both top and the bottom wiring and mechanics). This is true both of shopping an existing pin, and creating one from scratch. It's purpose is to hold the playfield securely, but still allowing it to be rotated 360 degrees (to flip back and forth between top and bottom surface). It also makes touching up playfield art easier and can prevent back pain by not having to crouch over a pinball cabinet.

It is also possible to test play a layout while mounted to a rotisserie, so long as it has been leveled and there are rails around the perimeter to keep the ball from falling off. Sometimes the cabinet walls are used as walls for the playfield. Flipper buttons will also need to be temporarily wired up to actuate the flippers, and a bracket to mount a plunger if testing skill shots.

Factories will often fabricate elaborate and sturdy rotisseries out of thick steel since they may be used thousands of times per year:

[[Image: Rotisserie production.jpeg|500px]]

A hobbyist rotisserie doesn't need to be this elaborate. The most common rotisserie plan available online uses black gas pipes as the base, an angle plate for the playfield to rest on, and C-clamps to keep the playfield mounted:

[[Image: Rotisserie_pipes.jpg|500px]]

This design is functional but not without flaws. It costs upwards of $50 in supplies, the clamps most use can mark the playfield if not careful, and it can sometimes be difficult to get it set up. An alternate is to build it out of wood (reducing the chances of scratching the playfield when mounted), and using toggle clamps with rubber tips to protect the playfield:

[[Image: Rotisserie_wooden.jpg|500px]]

=== Advanced Tools ===

Although not strictly needed for hobbyists, the following are nice-to-have if you have some deep pockets, and they make whitewood production much faster and far more consistent. Rather than purchasing these, the best option is to find a local '''[http://www.techshop.ws/locations.html Maker Space]''' that has the equipment available for rent or through a monthly membership.

==== CNC ====

[[Image: cnc-router.png]]

A large-format CNC machine can take drawings from AutoCAD or Inkscape to cut a playfield exactly to the design, which will be much more accurate than one done by hand with a router.

Some reasonably-priced options include:

* [http://www.shopbottools.com/mProducts/prSstandard.htm ShopBOT]
* [http://mechmate.com/ MechMate]
* [http://www.generalcnc.ca/home GeneralCNC]

For smaller parts, there are much cheaper alternatives:

* [http://www.shapeoko.com/ Shapeoko] uses a standard hand router, like a Dremel, as the cutting tool, and is priced under $1K.

==== Laser Cutters ====

[[Image: laser-cutter.png]]

Using a laser cutter on plastics means fast prototyping of playfield plastics, and most cutters will also do engraving for interesting effects. Really high powered units will cut wood as well.

Some examples include [https://www.epiloglaser.com/ Epilog] and [http://www.ulsinc.com/ Universal].

A lower cost option is the [http://fslaser.com/products/lasers/hobby-lasers/newhobby Full Spectrum Laser].

== Materials ==

A rundown of the various materials needed to produce a whitewood.

=== Plywood ===

Commercial pinball machines use a specially sourced plywood that is not available from big box stores and generally not even specialty wood suppliers. Baltic Birch plywood has many more plys than big box store plywood. All the layers are Birch, so it is a very hard, heavy plywood.

[[Image:Birch_plywood.jpg|500px]]

The type of [http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/specialty-panels/hardwood-plywood/1-2-x-4-x-8-baltic-birch-plywood/p-1479673-c-13334.htm plywood] available at a big box store will have a thin ply on both sides, generally of softer '''Baltic Birch''', and will not have the surface area to allow a full 1/32" sanding to level the surface and inserts together. It will also have large voids inside.

[[Image: Plywood_box_store.jpg|500px]]

The thickness of a raw playfield is '''17/32"''', which is then sanded on top with inserts installed to a finished size of '''1/2"'''. Each side is a full face of hard '''Birch''' with five plys in-between, not a thin veneer to allow for this sanding. The following photo illustrates the full seven plys:

[[Image:plywood.png|500px]]

For hobbyists, the best option is '''Cabinet Grade''' plywood, preferably from a lumber yard, with a minimum of seven plys but a preference for nine - the more plys, the more stable and flat. This type of plywood will have a thicker top and bottom ply suitable for sanding. It will generally be the softer maple but for one-off games, it should prove acceptable.

[[Image:cabinet-grade.png|500px]]

Another affordable option for whitewoods is '''Medium Density Fibreboard'''. Typically sold as '''MDF''', it is also available in large quantities. The drawback for MDF is that it has poor flexibility and does not allow for easy removal and re-installation of screwed in parts. It is also a very heavy material since it is so dense. It is highly recommended to avoid using MDF for final playfields.

=== Sheetmetal ===

For ramps, ball guides and various other uses.

[http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-sheets/=ve62im Sheet Steel] at McMaster-Carr.

[http://www.grainger.com/category/stainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock/stainless-steel/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c22?bc=y#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fstainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock%2Fstainless-steel%2Fraw-materials%2Fecatalog%2FN-c22Z1z0o8uzZ1z0nmq0 Sheet Steel] including stainless at Grainger.

=== Inserts ===

For a whitewood, the easiest option is to use [http://www.eplastics.com/PLEXIGLASS-ACRYCLR0-060FM24X48 thin plexiglass] for inserts as it is readily available and fairly easy to cut to size with a table jigsaw. This allows for skipping the final sanding stage if using 1/2" plywood instead of 17/32".

Real pinball inserts are available in various sizes and colors from a number of suppliers including [http://www.pbresource.com/playfins.html Pinball Resource] and [http://www.marcospec.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=inserts Marco Specialities].

Some examples of the inserts available:

[[Image:inserts.png]]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-1FGS 1″ round green star #PI-1FGS]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-34RO 3/4″ round Orange #PI-34RO]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-58RW 5/8″ round White opaque #PI-58RW]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-112TGT 1-1/2″ triangle Green #PI-112TGT]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-901 Rollover star button housing red 3A-7537 #C-901]

Standard depth of inserts are '''1/4"''' and they are designed to be sanded flat after installation - there will be a number cast into the top of the part and the top edge will be slightly raised around the radius by approximately 1/32". Thus, when creating insert holes, you must drill slightly less than 1/4" deep to allow for the sanding.

=== Off the Shelf Parts ===

Thankfully there are a number of standard devices that appear on modern machines that can be used on custom games, saving the garage maker a lot of time and effort by providing ready-made parts that don't need to be made from scratch.

Most of these basics are available from [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=394&pg=1 Pinball Life] in the "Homebrew" section.

==== Microswitches ====

[[File:microswitch.jpg|Microswitch]]

The majority of switches in a game will consist of ones mounted under the playfield with a wire sticking up above that the ball will roll over to activate. Older games used leaf switches but modern one will use [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4624 microswitches]. These can be wired directly into your switch inputs and are '''normally open''' in that they make an electrical connection when the switch is activated.

==== Opto Switches ====

<span style="font-size:80%">The following information was sourced from a blog post by [http://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=1433 Scott Danesi] and used with permission.</span>

[[File:transmitter-opto.jpg|Transmitter]] [[File:receiver-opto.jpg|Receiver]]

The most common style of optos are the ''Bally/Williams'' '''WPC''' style [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=170 opto transmitter] and [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=171 receiver], available as an [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=168 assembly] ready to use. The LED emitter has no circuitry attached to it by default.

In order to safely power this type of LED, you will need to know the ''forward voltage'' of the LED, the ''maximum constant current'' that the LED can handle, what ''input voltage'' to supply to it (5v or 12v), and how much ''current'' to give the LED to ensure it has enough power to transmit infrared light to reach the opposite opto receiver.

For the ''WPC'' style opto the values are:

* '''Forward Voltage''': 1.7v
* '''Max Constant Current''': 100mA, but it is recommended to not exceed 75mA to maximize the life of the LED. This will be powerful enough to transmit a decent amount of distance between the emitter and receiver.
* '''Input Source Voltage''': 5v DC is recommended as it is higher than the forward voltage of the LED, and low enough that the resistor does not have to dissipate too much heat.

These LED emitters will need a current limiting resistor in series with them as applying 5v or 12v directly to the LED will cause it to overload and fail. Using a [http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz?VS=5;VF=1.7;ID=75 Resistance Calculator], the resistor value can be easily determined.

'''Important''': Be sure to use at least the minimum recommended resistor wattage. The calculator above is recommending at least a 1/2 watt resistor. Too small of a resistor and it can burn up,

On the receiver end, it can simply be wired directly to the inputs of your switch board. It will behave just like a standard switch as long as it is connected in the correct orientation. The ''cathode'' (ground) side of the emitter is the side with the flat indentation on the black epoxy base. However, note that opto receivers are '''normally closed''' switches and when it detects the IR beam from the emitter, it will be in a closed state, which is the opposite of a normal switch. When a ball breaks the opto beam it will go from a closed state to an '''open''' state, so your software needs to understand this.

==== Ball Trough ====

The trough is positioned at the bottom of the playfield and is used to collect all the balls used in standard game play. Originally holding only a single ball, it has evolved over the years and current versions can hold anywhere from one to six balls.

[[Image:ball-trough-example.jpg]]

Here is an original '''Gottlieb''' single ball trough:

[[Image:original-trough.jpg|500px]]

Here is an example of a ''Stern'' trough installed on a ''Batman'' playfield:

[[Image:ball-trough-stern.jpg|500px]]

Pinball Life offers an affordable [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4120 trough] that will work well in custom applications. It's available in a 3-ball and 6-ball version.

[[Image:pbl-trough.jpg]]

==== Slingshots ====

'''Slingshots''' are the objects above the flippers that kick the ball in the general direction of each other and towards the outlanes due to their upward angle. The lower playfield layout for modern machines has become a standard of two flippers, two outlanes, two inlanes, and two slingshots in a standard layout.

[[Image:slingshots-1.jpg]]

For example, here is a 1977 ''Gottlieb Mustang'' EM game illustrating the standard layout that has remained mostly unchanged in the last 30 years:

[[Image:lower-playfield.jpg|600px]]

The mechanism for slightshots involves a coil under the playfield that fires when a ball hits the rubber ring of the slingshot, closes one of two switches to register the hit, then propelling the ball in the opposite direction.

[[Image:bally-slingshot-diagram.jpg]]

Configuration for slingshots is not limited to just the standard layout, so home builders are free to layout slingshots in whatever manner they like. Occasionally even manufacturers themselves deviate from the standard layout - for example, ''Williams Space Station'' has no inlanes:

[[Image:space-station.jpg]]

==== Drop Targets ====

A Drop Target is a flat mechanical target that is held up on a small ledge and when hit with a ball, is moved backwards and dropped down via a small spring. There are generally switches for both the ''Up'' and ''Down'' positions but just a single ''Down'' switch will work. They can be arranged as single targets or in rows.

[[Image:drop-target-row.jpg|500px]]

Every manufacturer has their own designs and use a variety of switch types to detect the target position - ''Williams'' used optos while modern ''Stern'' games use microswitches.

Diagram of a standard ''Williams'' target including a drop coil:

[[Image:drop-target-diagram.png|500px]]

They are also available in an '''Inline''' format.

[[Image:inline-drop-targets.jpg|500px]]

Drop Targets are available in many of the usual mail-order establishments such as [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=410 Pinball Life] but usually come in only the standard colors such as Opaque Red, Yellow, Black or White. If you are planning on Back-lighting the drop targets with LEDs for effect or mode selection; Pinball-Mods.com offers Drop Targets in [https://Pinball-Mods.com/url/ClrDropTarget Frosted "Clear" Polycarbonate] for exactly this purpose. Make a [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Construction#Stencil_Cutter custom stencil] and you have a theme specific drop target.

==== Kickback ====

The kickback feature in a pinball machine allows the player to continue where they would have otherwise drained out of either outlane. A solenoid fires (not unlike an auto-plunger) against the ball, which quickly shoots it up the outlane and back into the playfield. For many games, this is enabled as part of the ball save and given to the player as a reward during normal play.

[[Image:kickback.jpg]]

The solenoid is mounted in the apron area, and a lane guide will need to be mounted for the ball to properly shoot upward and out. Normally there is a playfield lamp in the outlane to indicate to the player kickback is active.

==== VUK ====

Also known as ''Vertical Up-Kicker'', this is a scoop with a vertically mounted coil under the playfield with a plunger that kicks the ball vertically, typically through a scoop to bring a ball from one playfield to a higher one, or bring it up to wireform ramps. Scoop heights can vary, so there is really no stock part that will work in all applications.

Below you can see a VUK scoop made from cardboard, first cut out as a flat sheet, then folded up and glued along the edges (similar to bending sheet metal and tacking the gaps). An even better material to use is [[Construction#Foam_Core|Foam Core]].

[[Image: Vuk_scoop_flat.jpg|350px]]
[[Image: Vuk_formed.jpg|200px]]

After the scoop has been tested thoroughly (as with any design), it can be transferred to sheet metal and welded, or bent from PETG plastic and glued. Be sure to include tabs for mounting to the playfield.

==== Pop Bumper Bodies ====
Retail Pop Bumper Bodies are starting to come in nearly every color of the rainbow so you can somewhat easily match to color of bodies to your artwork, pop caps, or intended lighting. Pinball Life sells most standard colors in the [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3945 opaque] category and include Red, Blue, Orange, Yellow, and Black. Additionally PBL sells matching [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3945 Skirts] in those same colors with the addition of Green, Teal, and Purple.

If you'd rather show art thru the pop bumper body and skirts; Pinball-Mods.com offers translucent [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/pm_pbumper popbodies] in Clear, Blue, Yellow, Orange, Red, Green, and Purple. They also offer Chrome opaque and Gold opaque. If you use their [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/ClrSkirt clear skirts]; you can have artwork under the skirt for that little extra flair.

==== Hangers ====

'''Hangers''' (sometimes spelled "hangars") are the brackets at the bottom of the playfield that attach to the lockdown bar mechanism to hold the playfield up. Every manufacturer seems to have slightly different styles. Early ''Williams'' used a Z-shaped bracket that installed from underneath the playfield.

[[Image:williams-hanger.png|400px]]

The currently available off-the-shelf bracket is the ''Stern/Sega'' bracket that has a gusset shape, and are mounted above the playfield rather than below.

[[Image:Stern_gusset_hanger.jpg]]

==== Off-the-shell Cabinet Parts ====
Custom pinball machine cabinets is becoming easier due to many vendors providing "mod" friendly cabinet parts.

===== Flipper Buttons =====

[[Image:Pbl_a-16883.jpg|150px]]
Pinball-Life sells both [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1692 opaque] and [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3332 translucent] modern flipper buttons compatible with Stern and late model Williams cabinets.

[[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_Buttons.jpg|150px]] [[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_Housings.jpg|150px]]

Pinball-Mods.com offers both the [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/pm_btns Buttons] and [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/pm_btnhouse Housings] for early solid state machine cabinets by Bally, Gottlieb, Stern, and Chicago Coin which can be lit with LEDs using a technique documented in a [http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/classic-bally-stern-clear-buttons-vids-review Pinside thread].

=== Switch Types ===

There are a number of options when selecting switches, all of which have been used in pinball machines over the years.

A '''Leaf''' switch consists of two metal blades held together in a contact assembly, with one of the blades generally being longer than the other. In a normally-open leaf switch, the longer blade is pushed toward the shorter blade to close the circuit. On a modern pinball machine, only normally-open switches are used.

[[Image:switch-1.gif|300px]]

A '''Microswitch''' is a small enclosed switch that has a sheet metal blade or wire actuator to operate the switch. The actuator is not electrically connected to the switch contacts, so it can be used in situations where directly moving one of the switch leaves would be dangerous. The blade or wire actuator can be bent into a convenient shape for the game requirements

Microswitches with wire actuators are used for playfield roll-overs. The wire is bent to stick up through a slot in the playfield. When the ball rolls over the wire, it pushes down on the wire which operates the switch. Ones with blade actuators are used for detecting a ball passing through a gate. As the ball moves the wire gate, one end of the wire swivels down to press the blade which operates the switch.

[[Image:switch-3.gif]] [[Image:switch-2.gif]]

'''Optical''' switches use an infra-red light emitting diode (LED) to activate a photo transistor. There are three variations that are useful in pinball machines:

[[Image:switch-4.gif]] [[Image:switch-5.gif]] [[Image:switch-6.gif]]

* '''Slot-Type''': A slot-type optical switch has the LED and the photo transistor mounted in the legs of a "U" shaped plastic. The light emitting diode is always on, and a "blade" that moves in and out of the slot interrupts the beam turning the photo transistor on and off.
* '''Reflective''': An optical switch that has the LED and the photo transistor mounted side-by-side and facing outward. When a reflective surface comes near the switch, the beam from the LED reflects back to the photo transistor. Typical range for this type of switch is 3-6 millimeters or 1/8" to 1/4".
* '''Separates''': An optical switch that has the LED and photo transistors in separate packages. The light emitting diode is always on, and an object moving between the LED and the photo transistor interrupts the beam turning the photo transistor on and off. The range for this type of switch can be up to 30 centimeters or 12".

'''Proximity''' switches may be ''inductive, ultrasonic, capacitive, or optical''. A proximity switch detects the presence or absence of something within a certain ''proximity'' (or range) of the switch.

'''Inductive''' proximity switches work in two different ways. The '''Active''' type, an oscillator generates an electromagnetic field. When an electrically or magnetically conductive object enters the field of the oscillator, its frequency is altered, and the output switches. This type of switch can only be used when oscillator field will not sense too large an area. The '''Passive''' type uses a coil with an iron core or a semiconductor in a magnetic field (Hall effect sensor). A moving, magnetically conductive object disturbs the magnetic field and generates an electric current. This type of switch is not sensitive enough to detect a pinball reliably. It is used for detecting regular movement like gear wheel teeth rotating past, or with a magnet in a keyboard switch.

'''Capacitive''' proximity switches work in two different ways. The '''Passive''' type has a sensor that consists of two concentrically mounted electrodes (which are the electrodes of an opened capacitor). When an object approaches the sensor, the electrostatic field is changed. (It changes in opposite directions for conductive and non-conductive materials.) This change is detected by the switch. The '''Active''' type capacitive switches operate by generating a radio frequency. As an object approaches, the impedance seen by the radio frequency changes. This influence is measured within the circuitry and compared with the reference point set by the sensitivity adjustment.

The key factor for a switch is that it ''electrically completes a circuit'', so they can consist of any two conductive objects being connected - so, even the pinball itself can be used as a switch if it connect two wires together!

=== Playfield Parts ===

The best source of parts like switch targets, pop bumpers, posts and other miscellaneous bits is from parts machines - picking up a used machine with a worn playfield and just cleaning up those parts will be ten times cheaper than buying all new parts.

However, given the increasing value of even older solid-state machines, finding games to part out is becoming increasingly difficult, so the only option may be purchasing new.

Once a preliminary [[Design|design]] is complete, the next step is to create an initial prototype, known in the industry as a '''Whitewood'''.

== Whitewood ==

The origin of the term ''whitewood'' is related to the material of the playfield, which is traditionally '''White Maple'''. The first iteration of a game will not have any artwork or lighting as the purpose is to test the layout, flipper shots and the overall ''feel'' of the design to confirm it plays as expected.

The second iteration of the whitewood - generally a different playfield rather than the existing one re-cut - will include inserts, lighting and any ramps or playfield devices needed for the complete game. This version of the prototype is used to create the first iteration of the ruleset and special effects.

Here is an unpopulated whitewood for Cirqus Voltaire, which is a later iteration that does have inserts for lighting, but not yet having artwork.

[[Image:cv-whitewood.png]]

Here is a populated whitewood for AC/DC, which does not have the later sub-playfield so is much earlier in the design process.

[[Image:acdc-whitewood.png]]

Typically a playfield is made of 9-ply birch plywood, '''17/32"''' thick with the additional 1/32" allowing for the inserts to be sanded flush. A number of European manufacturers used plastic playfields, and some domestic companies experimented with them in the 1970's, but the vast majority use plywood.

===Playfield Sizes===
Here is a list of playfield sizes by various manufacturers;

{|class="wikitable" style="border-width: 5px;" cellpadding="10"
!Company
!Type
!Style
!Inches
|-
|Alvin G
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Alvin G
|SS
|Mystery Castle
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Atari
|SS
|Widebody
|27.00" x 45.00"
|-
|Bally
|EM
|Standard
|20.25" x 41.00"
|-
|Bally
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Bally
|SS
|Widebody
|26.75" x 40.50"
|-
|Capcom
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Data East
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Data East
|SS
|Widebody
|25.00" x 51.75"
|-
|Game Plan
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|EM
|Standard
|20.25" x 41.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 1
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Widebody
|23.75" x 46.50"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Circus (Extra Wide)
|26.75" x 46.50"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 3
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Stern Electronics
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Stern Electronics
|SS
|Widebody
|23.875" x 45.00"
|-
|Stern Pinball
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 45.00"
|-
|Williams
|System 1-11
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Williams
|System 1-11
|Widebody
|27.00" x 42.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC
|Safecracker
|16.50" x 41.50"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (through 1987)
|Standard
|20.50" x 42.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (1987 on)
|Standard
|20.25" x 44.5"
|-
|WMS
|WPC
|Superpin (Widebody)
|23.00" x 46.00"
|-
|WMS
|Pinball 2000
|Standard
|20.50" x 43.00"
|-
|Zaccaria
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|}

=== Foam Core ===

When creating an initial whitewood to test shots, install the lower third (flippers, slingshots) and side rails, but use '''Foam Core''' for your ramps and any upper playfield stuff. It is easy to cut and form with hot glue, quickly and cleanly. It is also strong enough to endure test playing without breaking.

[[Image:foam-core.jpg|500px]]

Use '''1/4" to 1/8"''' for ramp bottoms, and hot glue thinner '''posterboard''' on the sides. You can also use posterboard for the transitions between the playfield and the ramps. Trace the shape of the ramp on the foam core, cut it out, then glue on thinner sides.

Foam core can also be used for stand ups, pop bumpers and other devices to test other shots. Either stack it or stand it up and glue it together. Use hot glue for everything - easy to use, dries quickly, holds strong, and you can rip it apart to change things as needed.

[[Image:foam-core-4.jpg]]

When complete, the game should be basically playable in terms of playfield and ramp shots, and if the game plays okay with foam core, it will play even better in plastic and metal.

[[Image:foam-core-2.jpg|500px]]

An alternate to foam core (which can be pricey at $7 for a 2' x 3' sheet), is cardboard. It is a material that is readily available in multiple thicknesses and footprint sizes, often obtainable for free since it's such a highly recycled material. It can be bent at angles and remain stiff in fluted versions, or bent in a curve by squishing the flutes down, very similarly to sheet metal. Since cardboard has no foam inside, it can often be stiffer and closer to a harder material like plastic. It is as easily cut with an x-acto blade or scissors.

=== Cutting ===

(Sourced from a tutorial by Josh Kugler) [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=843.0]

Before proceeding with any cutting, a completed playfield drawing is needed, to be used as a template. For details on that portion of the process, visit the [[Design]] section of the wiki. One tip that will help later is to add centering lines to all the drilled insert circles to aid in proper placement.

Once complete, take the file to a ''FedexOffice'' or similar '''Printing House''' and have it printed full size. Use '''3M Spray adhesive''' to glue the print to your playfield surface. This print acts as your drilling and cutting template.

[[Image:pf-cutting-1.png|500px]]

Use two '''Forstner bits''' for each insert. The first is the wider opening that is the same size as the insert, drilled to the appropriate depth of the insert which is typically '''1/4"'''. The second bit is '''1/16"''' smaller can then be used to drill the through hole. This leaves a '''1/32"''' lip for the insert to sit on.

Since the Forstner bit has a centering point there is a natural centering hole for the second bit, making it easier to get it lined up right. The cleanest technique is to drill just short of going through, and then complete the hole from the other side using a standard cordless drill.

[[Image:pf-cutting-2.png|500px]]

Don’t do the three steps in order per hole, but the first step for a bunch of holes, then the second and third.

For creating a non-circular insert, use a router with a template and '''Bushing guide''' - a router bit with a small roller bearing on it runs along your guide, while the cutting head runs in the playfield to cut the hole to the size of the template. Creating the template is the hard part, but once you have that, it is relatively easy to route multiple holes for the inserts. This is a three step process similar to the circular inserts.

As with the circular inserts, first create the ''wider'' opening. This is done by clamping the template to the playfield and then routing the wider opening using the bearing bit.

Drill a couple of holes in the center of the insert so there is less to route. This is also helpful when doing the second step, of cutting out the inner opening, that is slightly smaller then the insert opening, since the router bit can start in one of the holes and not have to be plunged into the wood.

[[Image:pf-cutting-4.png|500px]]

A '''3/16"''' bit and a '''5/16"''' bushing/guide offers the best results, which gives a lip of 1/16", a little bigger then for the circular inserts. This second routing can be done without a template, since the insert opening itself can act as the template.

[[Image:pf-cutting-3.png|500px]]

== Cabinet ==

Made from '''3/4"''' plywood, mitre-jointed at the corners. Some of the considerations when designing or building a pinball cabinet include:

* Switch locations
* Side rails
* Lockdown bar mechanism
* Plunger height
* Coindoor size
* Leg mounting brackets
* Speaker bezel

There are typically two cabinet styles, '''Standard''' body and '''Wide''' body.

=== Cabinet Parts ===

If building a ''Williams'' style standard cabinet, '''VirtuaPin''' offers a [http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=9 Ultimate Cab-Builder's Kit] that has all the cabinet-specific parts in one handy kit.

[[Image:cabinet-parts.jpg|500px]]

When cutting your cabinet for the coin door, keep in mind it is installed with four bolts centered on the bottom, sides and top, and that the top hole goes through the lockdown bracket. So both need to line up.

[[Image:coin-door-lockdown.jpg|500px]]

== Electronics ==

Once the physical playfield is constructed, wiring it all together and adding a way to control the devices will be required. There are three basic options - use existing pinball boards, build custom control boards or purchase off-the-shelf units.

=== Existing Boards ===

A popular option is using boards from existing machines and replacing the main controller. For example, the '''Gottlieb System 3''' driver board uses modern MOSFET drivers, supports 32 coils and a 8x10 lamp matrix, and is available for $100 from [http://www.pbresource.com/stargate/gtb-ma1358.jpg Pinball Resource].

[[Image:sys3-driver.png|800px|Schematic for the Gottlieb System 3 Driver board]]

Another well documented system is the original [http://rottendog.us/BPS022.html Bally system].

=== Custom Boards ===

* '''[[OPP|Open Pinball Project]]''' is a low-cost, DIY solution for basic pinball control and is a good way to learn pinball control systems. There is extensive documentation hosted on this wiki.
* '''[https://github.com/LonghornEngineer/Pinheck_Pinball_System Pinheck]''' is a system designed by Ben Heck for use in America's Most Haunted and is not currently available in kit form, but you can download the design and have it printed yourself for use in your own games.
* '''[https://github.com/stu/system_shock System Shock]''' is a work-in-progress and currently only the driver board is available for download.

=== Off-the-Shelf Boards ===

* '''[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/index.php/products/p-roc P-ROC]''' (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller) is a well-supported generic platform that is in use by many custom games. It has a dedicated [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/ forum].
* '''[http://fastpinball.com/ FAST Pinball]''' has controllers and board comparable to P-ROC.

=== Controller PCs ===

Most off-the-shelf systems require an external PC with USB to provide the signals to control the solenoids and lamps. Currently these small ARM-based boards are the best candidates as they are more powerful than the '''Raspberry Pi''' or '''Arduino''' boards:

* '''[http://ameridroid.com/products/odroid-c1 O-DROID]''' : Quad-core CPU, dual-core GPU, 1GB DDR3 RAM, Gigabit Ethernet , 4x USB2.0 ports.
* '''[http://beagleboard.org/BLACK Beaglebone Black]''': AM335x 1GHz ARM® Cortex-A8, 512MB DDR3 RAM, 4GB 8-bit eMMC on-board flash storage
* '''[http://cubieboard.org/model/cb3/ CubieTruck]''': ARM® Cortex™-A7 Dual-Core, 2GB DDR3, HDMI & VGA 1080P display output, 10M/100M/1G Ethernet, Wifi + BT, SATA 2.0 , NAND+MicroSD or TSD+ MicroSD or 2*MicroSD

=== Coil Sizes ===

[[Image:coil.jpg]]

When choosing coils, it is important to understand how coil sizing works.

For example, decoding the ''Williams'' part number '''AL-23-550''' has three parts - the prefix '''AL''' means the coil has base wire lugs on the left and middle of the coil's base, while '''23''' is 23 gauge wire and '''550''' is the number of turns of wire. The more turns, the weaker the coil.

For more details on coils, check out the [http://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html Pinball Medic coil chart].

=== Power Supplies ===

[[Image:power-supply.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:power-supply-2.jpg]]

There are a couple of options when it comes to power.

* '''Commercial Pinball Transformer / Power Supply''': Most dedicated pinball transformers will provide various power level taps like '''6.3V''' for the GI and CPU, '''24V''' for basic coils and '''50V''' for flippers and other high-current coils. You'll need the comparable power supply board to convert the AC voltages to DC, or create the power supply yourself.
* '''[http://www.antekinc.com/ps-4n70-400w-70v-power-supply/ AnTek]''': The model '''PS-4N70R5R12''' provides high current '''70V''' as well as 1A '''5V/12V''' feeds to run the CPU and lights.
* '''[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=18&y=17&lang=en&site=us&keywords=285-1815-ND TDK-Lamda]''': Available from ''Digikey''. Model '''LS150-36''' is a '''36V''' switching supply, suitable for most standard coils but may not be enough for flippers or VUKs.
* '''[http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_295929_-1 Meanwell]''': The '''SE-600-48''' is a '''48V 12A''' supply which can be dialed up to 50v. There are also lower amperage 48V models such as the '''Meanwell NES-350-48''' which provides '''7A'''. Meanwell is a highly respected brand that make very good power supplies.
* '''[http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=cnc+power+supply&_nkw=cnc+power+supply&_sacat=0 eBay]''': Search for ''CNC Power Supplies''. These will often be '''48V''' high current switching supplies designed for stepper motors and will provide enough power for coils so long as the maximum current isn't exceeded.

==== Selecting Power Supplies ====

It is recommended to get at least a '''3A''' supply for coils. The quality, especially from China, is not always guaranteed. Be sure to choose one with a case that has adequate venting to prevent shorts if any metal items are dropped on the circuitry. Power supplies with fans are recommended. They typically won't turn on unless they get hot enough (Coils pulling excessive current, hot ambient temperature). Sometimes coils may pull more amps than the power supply can provide, so wiring in resistors and capacitors (to buffer energy) may be necessary so the power supply doesn't reset.

Computer power supplies are fine for CPU and some lighting, but won't provide enough current for solenoids. If using a standard PC as the CPU for the machine, there is a useful [http://scottdanesi.com/WP/?page_id=398 board] for controlling PC power supplies from the external high-current supply.

With modern switching power supplies, having one supply for coils and another for CPU / LEDs is common, so please remember that '''All grounds from all supplies need to be connected together''' otherwise it may create a '''floating ground''' situation that can lead to destroying boards and other electronics.

==== Capacitor / Filter Board ====

Using a modern switcher with coils means using a '''Capacitor Board''' between the supply and any solenoids to provide coils that sudden onrush of current. Some options include:

[[Image:power-entry.png|Power Entry PCB]]

The Multimorphic [https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry PCB] distributes AC power and up to 4 different DC voltages, generally 5v, 12v, 15v, and “high voltage” (typically 48v or 70v). A 12v relay enables the “high voltage” output. LEDs identify the presence of each of the 4 DC voltages.

[[Image:fast-power.png|FAST Power Filter Board]]

The FAST [http://fastpinball.com/platform/hardware/fast-power/fast-power-filter-board Power Filter Board] provides capacitor filtering and fusing.

For those interested in DIY solutions, the OPP [[OPP#Power_Filter_Board|Power Filter Board]] provides similar functionality.

== Wiring ==

Most pinball machines have wire harnesses of some type. As high-current devices, solenoids typically need a minimum of '''18AWG''' wire. Wiring for lighting and switches can be much thinner since it's pulling less current, particularly if using LEDs, so '''20-22AWG''' wiring is acceptable for low-current uses.

[[Image:wire-guages.png]]

=== Connectors ===

Most Pinball machines use the [https://www.molex.com/product/kk/kk.html Molex KK Series] connectors in the '''0.100"''' and '''0.156"''' sizes. There is a PDF with the part numbers from Mouser in the [[Files_Section|Files]] section.

=== Wire Management ===

Because prototyping (or one-off) projects don't have pre-determined wire lengths and quantities, how wire is routed will change many times before the game is complete. It is highly recommended to use tie mount bases (with adhesive) versus clips that are permanently screwed into the playfield. That way they can be moved around as needed.

[[Image:wire-manage-1.gif|400px]]

It is also recommended to use re-usable tie-wraps, which allow repeated opening and closing as needed.

[[Image:wire-manage-2.jpg]]

Here is an example of a prototype playfield using these types of wire holders:

[[Image:wire-manage-3.jpg|400px]]

=== Wiring Harness ===

Once the final wiring layout is complete, paper templates of the playfield layout on thick cardboard or wood paneling can be used to make a '''Wiring Pinboard''', similar to the boards that the manufacturers use to make their '''Wiring Harnesses'''. Place nails in appropriate spots and run wires as needed, with tie-wraps.

[[Image:wiring-pinboard-2.jpg|400px]] [[Image:wiring-pinboard.jpg|600px]]

=== Color Coding ===

To aid in troubleshooting and wire layout, pinball companies use '''color-coded''' wire, where it has one color as the main jacket and a second color as a smaller stripe, allowing for many color combinations. For instance, Williams used yellow and white wire for lamps.

Getting a full stock color-coded wire can be very expensive, but the folks at [https://missionpinball.com/ Mission Pinball] came up with a cheaper alternative method of properly color-coding wire using cheap PVC piping.

[[Image:wire-marker-1.jpg|500px]]

Start with purchasing single-color wire in 50' - 100' spools. Get 18 and 20AWG spools for each type of wiring. The more base colors to start, the better.

Next, get some '''oil-based''' markers, which can be found at local hobby stores. One notable brand is Sharpie, and they should be labeled specifically as oil-based paint markers - water-based will scratch or wipe off easily. They will be more expensive but are the only type that work correctly.

Although Mission used a wood block to hold the markers, using a PVC '''T joint''' and drilling a hole through it in the center allows the placement of the paint marker in the T portion of the joint and pressing down on the wire as it passes through works very well.

[[Image:wire-marker-2.png|500px]]

=== Matrix Color Coding ===

Where color-coding is particularly important is in '''Switch''' and '''Lamp Matrix''' layouts. Plan ahead and design your color scheme before starting the construction of the game in a spreadsheet.

Below is an example of a color layout for a custom game. This document can be referenced during construction to make sure the right wire is going to the right switch, lamp or coil, avoiding troublesome issues later during the testing phase.

[[Image:matrix-spreadsheet.png|700px]]

== Displays ==

==== Numeric / Alphanumeric ====

Numeric or Alphanumeric score displays are sometimes chosen even today because of the ease of programming - they display simple scores or lines of text only, so no complicated graphics need to be designed or coded. That means more time to concentrate on gameplay versus interfacing with the player.

==== Gas Plasma ====

The first commercial solid-state displays in common usage were '''Gas Plasma''' displays. They use high voltage to cause a noble gas like neon to glow. Shaping the conductive layers into digits allows the display of multiple numbers or letters.

[[Image:gas-plasma.jpg]]

These types of displays are not only dangerous, due to the high voltages required, they are prone to burn-out or out-gassing, and have been obsolete for many years. Unless re-theming an older game and wanting to re-use existing parts, or trying to maintain a retro look, it is suggested to use '''LED''' replacements.

==== LED Displays ====

[[Image:led-display.jpg]]

The pinball after-market has produced a number of excellent plug-and-play LED display replacements.

* [http://xpinpinball.com/ X-PIN] has 6- and 7-segment displays as well as alphanumerics.
* [http://www.pinscore.com/products/pinball-displays Pinscore] has retrofit kits for older machines.
* [http://www.pinled.de/shop/index.php PinLED] in Europe has a variety of options available.

Additionally, there are many generic LED displays to choose from:

* [http://www.adafruit.com/categories/103 Adafruit] offers a number of LED segment displays with instructions on programming them with various microcontrollers.

=== Dot Matrix ===

[[Image:dmd-closeup.png]]

Modern games make use of either a gas plasma or LED '''Dox Matrix Display''' or '''DMD'''. They work on the same principle as the segment display except they use round pixels in a grid pattern - or ''matrix'' - to display game information.

[[Image:dmd-display.png]]

The complexity with these displays is that the programmer must construct numbers or letters in a graphic format and then push that data to the display. Rather than program "display 300,000", they must use '''bitmap''' fonts and determine screen placement.

However, many [[Programming#Frameworks|programming frameworks]] currently available offer this functionality built in and are an excellent place to start learning about game graphics.

Other options for matrix displays include:

[[Image:small-dmd.png]]

* [http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/75-peggy2 Evil Mad Scientist] offers the Peggy 2 DMD kit for exploring DMD programming.
* [http://www.adafruit.com/categories/326 Adafruit] has a variety of matrix boards with programming instructions included.
* [http://www.embeddedadventures.com/led_matrix_displays_category.html Embedded Adventures] has kits as well.

=== LCD Display ===

The trend for modern games is using '''LCD''' screens in place of DMDs or other older display technologies. Full color with high resolution, the results can be very attractive. However, at this level a game designer essentially becomes a videogame designer. A pinball maker has to wear many hats but it is the rare individual who can do both construction ''and'' handle graphics duties.

There is some discussion of the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1026.0 technical] side of graphical displays on the pinballcontrollers Forum.

== Lighting ==

Pinball lighting comes in two varieties - ''incandescent'' and ''LED''. Older incandescent games can be retrofitted with modern LED lamps, or when fully customizing, replaced with custom board-mounted LEDs or [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Basics#Serial_Chain_LEDs Serial Chain LEDs].

=== Socket Styles ===

For incandescent, most lighting is socketed either by a '''bayonet''' or '''wedge''' socket.

[[Image:wedge-base.jpg]]

[[Image:bayonet-base.jpg]]

''Bayonet'' is preferred since the bulb is more likely not to wiggle itself out from vibration during play and transport. While pinball started out with incandescent bulbs, most are moving towards LED for many reasons:

* Less power draw
* More color options
* Lasts longer which means replacing less often
* Less damaging. The constant heat/cool from incandescent bulbs are known to warp plastics and cause flaking on backglasses.

=== Bulb Mount Types ===

The most common sizes are the '''#44/#47 Bayonet''' Base, the '''#555 Wedge''' Base, the '''#89 Bayonet''' and the '''#906 Wedge'''.

[[Image:led-bulbs.jpg]]

One drawback of LED's are that they don't have a ramp-up of brightness like incandescent bulbs, and sometimes they can be bright enough to hurt the eyes. The ramp-up effect can be emulated in software if the lamp controller has enough brightness levels, and diffusion-style bulbs help the brightness issue. They are best used as '''General Illumination'''.

[[Image:coin-taker-bulb.jpg]]

Modern ''Stern'' games going forward use a '''Surface Mount LED''' board that are driven directly which eliminates the need for sockets altogether. The drawback to these are that the boards are directly soldered, so if there are issues, they can't be easily replaced. However, the long life of LEDs makes it unlikely for them to burn out at the rate incandescent lamps do.

For a custom game, a combination of '''Cointaker [http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc?categoryId=211 Premium Frosted]''' or '''Ablaze [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2561 4-LED]''' for GI and the '''FAST Pinball [https://squareup.com/market/fast-pinball-llc/fast-rgb-led-insert RGB LED Insert]''' or '''Multimorphic [https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/rgb-led/ RGB LED]''' boards for inserts are a good choice.

=== Custom LED Boards ===

Many vendors provide custom lighting solutions which might not fit in a traditional socket as above or have specific pinball specific uses.

[[Image:brite-cap.png|300px|BriteCaps EVO]]

One example is the [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3624 BriteCaps EVO] mod for #555 Pop bumpers. These PCBs plug into the #555 socket typically found in most modern pop bumper assemblies.

[[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_StarRolloverLED.png|300px|Star Rollover LED]]

Pinball Mods offers a [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/StarRolloverLED Star Rollover LED] which shines 4 LEDs from the underside of a [http://www.pbresource.com/bigindian/gtb-d11966c.jpg star rollover] and has a hole in the center to allow the switch actuator to function properly on the leaf switch.

[[Image:lit-flip-2.jpg|300px|Light up Flipper buttons]]

For lighting translucent flipper buttons, a #44 socket and the Cointaker '''[http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc;jsessionid=7A7CECA77E05B788FA02BB59CAE187C7.m1plqscsfapp05?categoryId=166 44/47 Flex Super Bright]''' lamps can be installed by attaching the socket under the flipper button and out of the way of the Flipper Button Leaf Switch.

[[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_FlipperMod.gif|200px|Flipper Mod]]

Pinball Mods offers the '''[http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/FlipperBtnMod Flipper Button Mod]''' which displays a rotating 12 LED pattern behind early solid state Flipper buttons for project using the [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Construction#Flipper_Buttons older style flipper buttons].

== Custom Parts ==

Many hobbyists plan on producing games with game-specific features that aren't included in other machines, such as ramps or ball control devices, and thus will have to design and construct mechanisms from scratch. This generally involves metalworking, welding and other more advanced skills, but are not beyond the garage hobbyist.

=== Plastics ===

There will likely be many plastic shields scattered on the playfield to:

* Hide mechanisms
* Improve aesthetics
* Prevent a launched ball from getting stuck in a crevice

While using a laser cutter would be ideal, it is possible to produce plastics with basic hand tools. It is recommended to buy something easier to cut than acrylic, such as ''1/16" PETG'', which can be purchased from [http://www.mcmaster.com/#petg/=xs5xgh McMaster]. This can be cut fairly easily with strong scissors (or an x-acto if used carefully), and like acrylic it can be flame polished.

To create artwork, the best method is to print it on ''photo paper'', and then use a ''spray adhesive'' to attach it to the bottom of the plastic. Examples include ''3M Super 77'' (try to find the 25% lower VOC verison). These products dry clear and will not yellow.

[[Image: Spray_adhesive_3m.jpg]]

'''Please use caution when using this product as it is extremely volatile!'''

First, trace the shape to be cut on the thin blue film on top of the plastic. Remove the film from the bottom where art is being applied. The artwork should be just slightly bigger than the plastic to ensure there are no gaps when trimmed.

[[Image: Plastics_overlap1.jpg|300px]]

Make sure to spray in light, even coats on the backside of the plastic. Let it get tacky for 10-15 seconds, then move the printed art (art side up) over, and turn the plastic over and apply the plastic onto the paper - this will make it easier to line it up.

[[Image: Plastics_spray2.jpg]]

This is what it will look like when first applied. The adhesive will turn clear as it dries.

[[Image: Plastics_apply3.jpg|300px]]

Once the adhesive has dried, the holes can be drilled starting with a small bit, and working up to the hole size needed.

[[Image: Plastics_hole_drill4.jpg|300px]]

Trim off the excess paper by using the plastic as a guide. Trim slow and carefully as to not dig into the plastic with the knife.

[[Image: Plastics_trim5.jpg|300px]]

Here's an example of prototyped plastics installed on the slingshots:

[[Image: Plastics_installed6.jpg]]

The white paper acts as a nice diffuser to spread the light out, just like the white ink layer on screenprinted plastics.

[[Image: Plastics_lit_up7.jpg|300px]]

=== 3D Printing ===

(From Wolfmarsh's [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wolfs-beginner-guide-to-3d-printing-and-pinball Pinside] tutorial)

The big revolution in garage building is 3D printing.

The most popular among home machines is '''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling Fused Deposition Modeling]''' (FDM for short). '''FDM''' is where a thermoplastic filament is slightly melted, extruded through a small nozzle, and deposited in layers to build up the object. Most home printers use this method.

Here is an image that gives the general idea. One is the ''Extruder'', two is the deposited ''Layers'', and three is the ''Build platform''.

[[Image:3d-1.png]]

A second method that is popular with the higher end machines, is '''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering Selective Laser Sintering]''' (SLS). With '''SLS''', a layer of powder is deposited on the build surface, then a laser melts specific areas together. The build surface lowers a fraction of a millimeter, and more powder is deposited. Repeat until the object is built. Here are a couple short videos that shows how SLS works:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=sFpSxX0SzgY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-6ItiCbYFvI

==== Buying a Printer vs Using a Service ====

Most home printers will print using plastic filament and FDM. Services like [http://www.shapeways.com/ Shapeways] can afford higher end printers that offer higher resolution with SLS.

For most of what a garage builder will do, FDM and home printing will cover it. If a full color print or some very fine details are needed, like screw threads, the part can be ordered from ''Shapeways''.

If planning to purchase a home printer, it is recommended to read the [http://makezine.com/volume/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/ Make Guide to 3D printers]. One option is the '''[http://printrbot.com/shop/simple-metal-kit-with-heated-bed/ Printrbot Simple Metal Kit]''' with a Heated Bed upgrade. There are many clones coming out now that patents have run out. If you look at the flashforge, there are 2-3 clones that are as cheap as half cost. Monoprice has a few options. While heated bed isn't necessary for PLA, heat does seem to help all materials and is necessary for ABS. Choice of materials will come down to nozzle temp, but you want one that can handle at least 230C or higher.

[[Image:3d-2.jpg]]

Generally with the lower cost kits, the only real sacrifice is speed and maximum build size.

==== Printing an Object ====

The easiest way to get into 3D printing without having to create models is to download pre-made models. A great source for this is '''[http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]'''. Pinball parts are starting to appear on Thingiverse, so there is a small library already available.

For example, [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608164 here] is a shooter lane designed by Pinside contributor swinks:

[[Image:3d-3.jpg]]

Download an '''.STL file''' of the model to print. It contains the geometry for the object in a language the printing software can understand. Once you have the .STL file, you feed it to a '''Slicing program''' like '''[http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r]'''. A slicing program takes a 3D model and cuts it into the layers needed to feed to the 3D printer.

Here is a quick example of how it works. The model is on the left, and the sliced version on the right.

[[Image:3d-4.jpg]]

Once the object has been sliced, the program will generate a '''G-code''' file, which is the common language that CNC machines use.

A G-code file looks like this:

G1 X52.008 Y54.121 E2.04455
G1 X51.948 Y52.484 E2.13013
G1 X51.969 Y52.373 E2.13608
G1 X52.042 Y50.606 E2.22844
G1 X52.067 Y50.514 E2.23342
G1 X52.258 Y48.934 E2.31658
G1 X52.708 Y48.561 E2.34712
G1 X52.998 Y48.608 E2.36247
G1 X54.421 Y48.632 E2.43686
G1 X54.532 Y48.659 E2.44282

This example is a bunch of G1 commands that tell the machine to move to a specific X position, a specific Y position, and to Extrude a specific amount of filament. The G-code file gets loaded into the '''Printer control software''', and slowly fed to the printer as it prints the object.

The Printrbot example above can be driven using a '''Raspberry PI''', running a special image called [http://octoprint.org/download/ '''OctoPi]'''. It provides a web interface to the printer.

If everything worked as expected, at the end of the print process there is a real, complete object based on the models:

[[Image:3d-5.jpg]]

If things don't go well, it may end up as a bunch of trash plastic. It happens.

[[Image:3d-6.jpg]]

The key is to experiment and find shapes that work well, and to design shapes with the properties of the materials being used - if building brackets to hold coils, the resulting bracket should be thick enough to maintain its shape when the coil fires. The following is an example from ''America's Most Haunted.''

[[Image:3d-7.jpg]]

While all 3d printers should be monitored, once the first few layers stick it's generally safe for them to run un-monitored. PEI sheet beds help sticking, as do things like buildtak and zebra bed. This is much more convenient than replacing blue tape every build. As of this writing, there has never been a 3d printer reported to have thermal runaway and melt. Not to say electronics can't fail, but it's very unlikely. It's not uncommon for users to run batch print jobs overnight while they sleep. Some users have experimented with running jobs while not at home, but this usually requires both a webcam to monitor the print job, and a remote shutdown circuit that is internet enabled through a simple computer like arduino or a raspberry pi.

Software can make a big difference not only in build quality, but build support breakaway. Pay Programs like Simplify3d are not only superior in both of these, but it also spits out g-code very quickly. It also keeps updating with default printer settings as new printers come out. For free software, Cura seems to be the #1 choice.

=== Vacuum-Forming ===

(Sourced from a tutorial by Josh Kugler) [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1338.0]

Doing simple vacuum-forming in your garage is straight-forward. The basic idea is to use a standard oven to heat up a sheet of plastic until it softens, then place it over a pre-made ''form'', using a vacuum to pull the plastic down around the form.

Materials needed to create the vacuum-former include:

* Wood Strips
* Pegboard (2' x 4')
* Plywood
* Shop Vac or similar

Sizes are not critical - the available space in the oven will determine the maximum final size of any pieces formed - so the unit should be built slightly larger than that.

[[Image:vac-form-1.png|500px]]

Create a box using the wood strips and plywood, and caulk it to make it airtight.

[[Image:vac-form-2.png|500px]]

Drill a hole the same size as the intake hose on your vacuum in the side or bottom of the box, and attach the pegboard to the top of the box. When you place your form on top of the box, then the heated plastic, the vacuum will draw the heated plastic down.

Using an old picture frame, or a cheap one from IKEA, trim your plastic sheet to the same size and heat the plastic in the frame in the oven at 375 degrees, until it just starts to droop. Placing the frame and plastic on oven-safe jars will prevent it from touching the racks or surface of the oven if it should droop too far.

In this photo, the extra airholes are blocked by poster board to maintain the airtight seal.

[[Image:vac-form-3.png|500px]]

When creating forms, it is important to remember that it must be possible to cleanly remove the form once the process is complete, so things to avoid include:

* Large vertical surfaces
* Vertical holes

The best form is a pyramid shape, with the smallest details on top and increasing diameters to the base. Consider using a '''releasing agent''' to make removing the form easier - a non-stick spray or lubricant for example.

Creating the form itself can be done using foamcore, wood and bondo, aluminum or steel, depending on your available tools and ability. The smoother your initial form, the clearer your final pieces will be.

=== Welding ===

If you plan on making metal ramps or wireforms, welding will be required.

In order of quality, here are your welding options:

* '''TIG''': ''Tungsten Inert Gas'' arc welding is often employed to make welds on nickel alloys (like stainless steel), magnesium, aluminum, titanium and copper alloys. TIG welds can be made with or without metal fillers, unlike MIG welding, which exclusively employs filler metals to create welds.
** Pros: Pinpoints heat better than MIG welding, allowing for smaller, more precise welding, is a very clean process, creating no spatter whatsoever while a weld is being made.
** Cons: TIG welders are more expensive than MIG welders, and it is a more difficult process to master.
* '''MIG''': ''Metal Inert Gas'' arc welding is most often used with steel. MIG welders do not have to start and stop too often while welding, which allows for long, uninterrupted welds. Gas shields the weld, helping to prevent oxidation and spatter.
** Pros: Relatively clean, creating only a little spatter while welds are made, easier for beginners.
** Cons: Possibility of excessive melt-through and incomplete joint penetration or fusion, can be difficult to create a starting arc, welds are known to leave deposits that are heavily oxidized.
* '''Flux Core Wire Feed''': Arc welding without the shielding gas. Uses flux, similar to soldering, to flow metal.
** Pros: Cheapest form of MIG welding as it doesn't require compressed gas.
** Cons: More likely to produce dirty welds due to lack of shielding.
* '''Brazing''': Can be done with hand tools, but it requires a lot of heat for a long period of time in one spot, which weakens the surrounding steel. This makes it more susceptible to warping and bending due to stress. It can work, but it is not nearly as strong as MIG.

=== Wireforms ===

(From Matthew Bonnema's [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=959.0 Tutorial] on Wireform Fabrication)

One standard convention on modern pinball machines are wireform ramps. They can be made out of '''1/8" steel wire''' which can be purchased at most big box stores. If you don't have access or the skill to use welding equipment, wireform ramps can be fabricated from brass rods and soldered together using a small torch, flux, and solder. Spooky's America's Most Haunted was prototyped this way not only because Ben Heck was already used to soldering, but because brass is a little easier to form than low carbon steel.

==== Spacers ====

Spacers help to keep the proper distance between two rails in a wireform while it is being constructed. They can also be used for welding braces. A fair number of these will be needed - two or three per curve - plus a few oversized ones to allow for the grounding clamp from the welder if you're using one.

To make them, just measure the ball and figure out where you want the ball to ride in the rail, then drill two holes the same size as the stock you are planning on using.

[[Image:wireform-7.jpg|500px]]

Slide the spacers on and match the other wires bends carefully. Make sure to only bend the new wire and not the guide wire.

[[Image:wireform-8.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-9.jpg|500px]]

Use 16 and 20 gauge sheet metal for the spacers - 20 for tight bends and 16 for straightaways. It is easier to slide the 20 gauge down the curves.

If skinning wireforms, put supports on the under side to make them stronger. You can construct ramps by welding sheet metal over the tops of the rails at the ball entry points.

[[Image:wireform-10.jpg|500px]]

==== Loops ====

Loops are useful as entrance and exit points, and cut down can be used as bracing.

Take a piece of 1" PVC pipe and drill a hole centered on the pipe all the way through, roughly the same size of the stock that you intend to use.

[[Image:wireform-1.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-2.jpg|500px]]

Insert the stock all the way through and wrap it around really tightly. It will spring back a little, but if you are using a standard size pinball, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep the tension consistent all the way through the wrap.

[[Image:wireform-3.jpg|500px]]

With an '''Angle Grinder''' with '''Metal Cutting''' disc, cut as close to the initial bend to get as many loops as you can with out getting any of the curve in the cut.

'''''Take caution! This is a dangerous tool!'''''

[[Image:wireform-4.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-5.jpg|500px]]

A simple way to get really nice and easy loops. Bolt cutters, shears, a hacksaw, or wire cutters capable of cutting the wire you are using can also be used as an alternative to the angle grinder, although the loop ends will not be as clean. Free the loop of wire by pulling down on it slightly and clipping off the bent leg that goes through the pipe. Clip or saw each ring off, using the edge of the last ring cut as a guide.

[[Image:wireform-6.jpg|500px]]

Create supports by cutting the rings in half to make the supports. A large '''Side Cutter''' makes cutting the 1/8" steel stock easy and fast - just make sure to hold on to both pieces because they can fly apart. Eyeball guessing for the center on the rings is fine, but for consistency, measure for center.

[[Image:wireform-14.jpg|500px]]

==== Drawings ====

After making spacers and loops, the best starting point is using drawings made in one of the [[Design#Design_Software|drawing tools]] mentioned in the Design section. Match the form to the full-size 2D drawing during construction.

[[Image:wireform-drawing.jpg|500px]]

==== Welding ====

Cut a straight piece of stock, place it on the end of the rail and weld it up with a good tack. This will stop the wireform from twisting out of shape while putting the supports on. Use '''Welding Magnets''' (Usually about $3 each from most hardware stores) to hold the wire in position.

[[Image:wireform-15.jpg|500px]]

Clamp the ground for the welder to one of the jigs - you get a good, dependable circuit and it won't mess you up when you move it.

[[Image:wireform-16.jpg|500px]]

Time to weld!

Only weld with a '''Welding Helmet''' that is tight and won't fall off. If using a '''auto-darkening''' helmet, test its function before starting to weld. It should darken from the spark of a lighter.

[[Image:wireform-17.jpg|500px]]

First test the feed of the welder by pushing the button and watching how smooth the wire comes out. Having a jumpy feed can ruin a weld pretty fast. Then trim the wire to a comfortable length.

If the wire is too long, it will make spatter all over, while if too short, it could miss the joint and/or clog up the tip of the welder.

[[Image:wireform-18.jpg|500px]]

A good weld has clear signs of even heating and penetration through both parent metals (the grayish circle that surrounds the weld).

The bad weld example was done by having the wire overfed or having the wand to far from the surface. This creates a large amount of spatter, which on pinball rails is difficult to clean up due to the sizing.

It also has a distinct noise when done incorrectly - it sounds like bacon popping. A good weld has a consistent buzz sound.

[[Image:wireform-19.jpg|500px]]

After measuring where you want each support to go on the wireform, flip the rail over and set a half ring that was cut earlier across the two rails, using a magnet to hold it in place.

Make sure the ring is lined up with both sides of the rail. It should flow with curves and should be evenly placed.

[[Image:wireform-20.jpg|500px]]

A good welding technique to use is called '''Pushing the puddle'''. It is basically starting on the thicker material and pushing the molten puddle back into the thinner cross material.

==== Top Rail ====

With all the supports are welded, it's time for the top rails.

Take the PVC pipe used to make the rings from earlier and mount it to your workbench. Put the stock where the bend should be under the pipe and pull up, keeping a lot of force at the base.

[[Image:wireform-21.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-22.jpg|500px]]

Take the bent stock and lay it across the rail. Mark where it should get the first welds.

[[Image:wireform-23.jpg|500px]]

Go down the entire length of the wireform, bending the top rail wire by hand as close as possible to the form without welding. Welding and bending one after the other would cause the areas that have been welded to be much softer from the heat of the weld. This is called '''Annealing''', and your top rail bends will not match the cold bended main rail.

[[Image:wireform-24.jpg|500px]]

==== Finishing ====

Every now and then, bring your wireform back to the machine and test fit to make sure it is not getting warped from the heat of the welder.

[[Image:wireform-12.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-13.jpg|500px]]

During the fitting, mark areas for adding supports to hold the wireform.

After all the welding is complete, quickly run the whole wireform on a '''Fine Finishing Wire Wheel''' to clean it up and ready it for powdercoating or plating.

To see these parts powder coated and installed, see the ''DeadPin'' machine in the [[Custom_Games]] section.

=== Stencil Cutter ===

A '''Stencil Cutter''' is similar to a computer printer, except instead of printing it uses a small blade to cut paper, cardstock, vinyl, fabric, and other material. A good quality unit is the '''[http://www.silhouetteamerica.com/shop/machines/cameo Sihouette Cameo]''', available from Amazon.

There are two steps to creating quality stencils:

* The stencil material to cut with the Cameo
* The transfer tape used to transfer the weeded stencil to the part being painted

''Weeding'' is the process where you remove the parts of the cut stencil you don't need. The best material to use is '''[http://cricketvinylsupplies.com/gerbermask-I-ultra-stencil-film-paint-mask-14-x-1-yd Gerber 15 SM-4 Gerbermask 1 ULTRA]''' as it is thick enough to not clog the Cameo but allows for very fine detail. This is a medium tack pressure sensitive stencil material that has a slightly grainy white surface. It has a pressure-sensitive adhesive designed to work with a float solution like water with dish soap.

For the transfer tape, use '''[http://www.uscutter.com/RTape-Clear-Choice-AT65-All-Purpose-Medium-Tack-Application-Tape-100yd RTape Clear Choice AT65]''' which is a good general-purpose medium tack tape.

If working with an existing part, use a scanner to get a 1:1 image of the item to allow for vector tracing. Then bring the scan into a vector editor like '''Illustrator''' or '''Inkscape''', and create the vector outline of where the cuts should be made for the stencil.

[[Image:stencil-cut-1.jpg|300px]]

Once the vector is complete, the drawing can be imported into the ''Silhouette'' software bundled with the cutter to create a cut plot.

[[Image:stencil-cut-2.jpg|300px]]

At that point, the stencil can be cut and weeded.

[[Image:stencil-cut-3.jpg|300px]]

Apply the transfer tape to the stencil material, which allows it to be peeled off the backing and then applied to the surface to be painted.

[[Image:stencil-cut-4.jpg|300px]]

Pull the transfer tape off, leaving the stencil in place.

[[Image:stencil-cut-5.jpg|300px]]

At this point the part can be painted. Once the stencil is removed, the finished part is ready for installation.

[[Image:stencil-cut-6.jpg|300px]]

=== Ball Guides ===

Ball guides can be made from 18ga or 16ga stainless steel. Older Gottlieb guides were measured at 18ga, whereas some newer guides are 16ga. Heights for ball guides are typically no shorter than 1-1/8" (28.575mm).

You can buy some pre-cut guides from [https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-ball-guide-kit/ Mantis Amusements], '''Stainless 304''' cut to size from [http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=717&step=4&showunits=inches&id=30&top_cat=1 Online Metals] and '''Stainless 316''' strip from [https://www.mcmaster.com/#9090k1/=16kggof McMaster-Carr].

Construction

2018-10-14T14:45:57Z

Jwilson: /* Wiring */

== Tools ==

=== Specialty Tools ===

* '''[http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=59 Pop Bumper Drilling Template]''': For use when drilling the playfield for ''Williams''-style pop bumpers. Instructions for use [http://www.iobium.com/pop_bumper_drilling_template.htm here].
* '''Dupont KF2510 Crimper''': Usually priced under $20 on ebay, this connector crimper works incredibly well. Used with 100 mil spaced connectors, standard pinball molex connectors, and spade terminals. It has three different sizes for different connectors. The trick is to start the crimp so that the ratchet holds the connector in its teeth. Slip the wire in to the terminal, and then finish crushing the crimp. The crimps are nice and tight and hold the wires very securely.

=== Metalworking Tools ===

[[Image:tools-metal.jpg|700px]]

* A few different colored sharpies for marking cuts and bends
* 4 1/2" angle grinder for cutting and grinding
* Flap disc grinding pads of multiple grits
* Metal cutting blades for a grinder
* Safety glasses and gloves
* A bunch of different size C-clamps - at least one large and two big enough to clamp large items
* A Square
* Measuring tape
* Different sized ballpein hammers
* Drill bits for steel
* Center punch
* Blow Torch - MAP Gas works best, Propane as a second choice

A '''Metal Brake''' is useful for bending sheet steel to make brackets.

[[Image:metal-brake.jpg|500px]]

The above example is available from [http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch-metal-brake-with-stand-91012.html Harbor Freight].

[[Image:tabletop-brake.jpg]]

If space is at a premium, there are smaller [http://www.micromark.com/Mini-Metal-Shear-and-Brake,12375.html tabletop] versions as well.

[[Image:home-brake.jpg]]

If cost is an issue, you can [http://toolguyd.com/diy-sheet-metal-bending-brake/ make your own] from common hardware store parts.

=== Woodworking Tools ===

Beyond the standard [http://www.pinrestore.com/Tools.html hand tools] needed to create a machine from scratch, here are some additional tools:

[[Image:router.png]]

A '''Hand Router''' for creating insert and device holes in the playfield.

[[Image:jigsaw.png]]

A '''Table Jigsaw''' for cutting playfield plastics, or plexi for your initial whitewood inserts.

[[Image:sander.png]]

A '''Hand Sander''' to level the playfield. You should also have sand paper in various grits ranging from 180 up to 320, plus finer grits for final polishing.

[[Image:forstner-bit.png]]]

'''Forstner bits''' for drilling clean holes. Easier than using the router.

=== Cabinet Tools ===

[[Image:table-router.png]]

For cabinet building, a table router with '''Locking Mitre''' bits.

[[Image:mitre-bit.png]]

It is a bit that creates a locking edge between cabinet corners.

=== Rotisserie ===
While not a necessity, it makes populating a playfield much easier (both top and the bottom wiring and mechanics). This is true both of shopping an existing pin, and creating one from scratch. It's purpose is to hold the playfield securely, but still allowing it to be rotated 360 degrees (to flip back and forth between top and bottom surface). It also makes touching up playfield art easier and can prevent back pain by not having to crouch over a pinball cabinet.

It is also possible to test play a layout while mounted to a rotisserie, so long as it has been leveled and there are rails around the perimeter to keep the ball from falling off. Sometimes the cabinet walls are used as walls for the playfield. Flipper buttons will also need to be temporarily wired up to actuate the flippers, and a bracket to mount a plunger if testing skill shots.

Factories will often fabricate elaborate and sturdy rotisseries out of thick steel since they may be used thousands of times per year:

[[Image: Rotisserie production.jpeg|500px]]

A hobbyist rotisserie doesn't need to be this elaborate. The most common rotisserie plan available online uses black gas pipes as the base, an angle plate for the playfield to rest on, and C-clamps to keep the playfield mounted:

[[Image: Rotisserie_pipes.jpg|500px]]

This design is functional but not without flaws. It costs upwards of $50 in supplies, the clamps most use can mark the playfield if not careful, and it can sometimes be difficult to get it set up. An alternate is to build it out of wood (reducing the chances of scratching the playfield when mounted), and using toggle clamps with rubber tips to protect the playfield:

[[Image: Rotisserie_wooden.jpg|500px]]

=== Advanced Tools ===

Although not strictly needed for hobbyists, the following are nice-to-have if you have some deep pockets, and they make whitewood production much faster and far more consistent. Rather than purchasing these, the best option is to find a local '''[http://www.techshop.ws/locations.html Maker Space]''' that has the equipment available for rent or through a monthly membership.

==== CNC ====

[[Image: cnc-router.png]]

A large-format CNC machine can take drawings from AutoCAD or Inkscape to cut a playfield exactly to the design, which will be much more accurate than one done by hand with a router.

Some reasonably-priced options include:

* [http://www.shopbottools.com/mProducts/prSstandard.htm ShopBOT]
* [http://mechmate.com/ MechMate]
* [http://www.generalcnc.ca/home GeneralCNC]

For smaller parts, there are much cheaper alternatives:

* [http://www.shapeoko.com/ Shapeoko] uses a standard hand router, like a Dremel, as the cutting tool, and is priced under $1K.

==== Laser Cutters ====

[[Image: laser-cutter.png]]

Using a laser cutter on plastics means fast prototyping of playfield plastics, and most cutters will also do engraving for interesting effects. Really high powered units will cut wood as well.

Some examples include [https://www.epiloglaser.com/ Epilog] and [http://www.ulsinc.com/ Universal].

A lower cost option is the [http://fslaser.com/products/lasers/hobby-lasers/newhobby Full Spectrum Laser].

== Materials ==

A rundown of the various materials needed to produce a whitewood.

=== Plywood ===

Commercial pinball machines use a specially sourced plywood that is not available from big box stores and generally not even specialty wood suppliers. Baltic Birch plywood has many more plys than big box store plywood. All the layers are Birch, so it is a very hard, heavy plywood.

[[Image:Birch_plywood.jpg|500px]]

The type of [http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/specialty-panels/hardwood-plywood/1-2-x-4-x-8-baltic-birch-plywood/p-1479673-c-13334.htm plywood] available at a big box store will have a thin ply on both sides, generally of softer '''Baltic Birch''', and will not have the surface area to allow a full 1/32" sanding to level the surface and inserts together. It will also have large voids inside.

[[Image: Plywood_box_store.jpg|500px]]

The thickness of a raw playfield is '''17/32"''', which is then sanded on top with inserts installed to a finished size of '''1/2"'''. Each side is a full face of hard '''Birch''' with five plys in-between, not a thin veneer to allow for this sanding. The following photo illustrates the full seven plys:

[[Image:plywood.png|500px]]

For hobbyists, the best option is '''Cabinet Grade''' plywood, preferably from a lumber yard, with a minimum of seven plys but a preference for nine - the more plys, the more stable and flat. This type of plywood will have a thicker top and bottom ply suitable for sanding. It will generally be the softer maple but for one-off games, it should prove acceptable.

[[Image:cabinet-grade.png|500px]]

Another affordable option for whitewoods is '''Medium Density Fibreboard'''. Typically sold as '''MDF''', it is also available in large quantities. The drawback for MDF is that it has poor flexibility and does not allow for easy removal and re-installation of screwed in parts. It is also a very heavy material since it is so dense. It is highly recommended to avoid using MDF for final playfields.

=== Sheetmetal ===

For ramps, ball guides and various other uses.

[http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-sheets/=ve62im Sheet Steel] at McMaster-Carr.

[http://www.grainger.com/category/stainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock/stainless-steel/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c22?bc=y#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fstainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock%2Fstainless-steel%2Fraw-materials%2Fecatalog%2FN-c22Z1z0o8uzZ1z0nmq0 Sheet Steel] including stainless at Grainger.

=== Inserts ===

For a whitewood, the easiest option is to use [http://www.eplastics.com/PLEXIGLASS-ACRYCLR0-060FM24X48 thin plexiglass] for inserts as it is readily available and fairly easy to cut to size with a table jigsaw. This allows for skipping the final sanding stage if using 1/2" plywood instead of 17/32".

Real pinball inserts are available in various sizes and colors from a number of suppliers including [http://www.pbresource.com/playfins.html Pinball Resource] and [http://www.marcospec.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=inserts Marco Specialities].

Some examples of the inserts available:

[[Image:inserts.png]]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-1FGS 1″ round green star #PI-1FGS]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-34RO 3/4″ round Orange #PI-34RO]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-58RW 5/8″ round White opaque #PI-58RW]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-112TGT 1-1/2″ triangle Green #PI-112TGT]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-901 Rollover star button housing red 3A-7537 #C-901]

Standard depth of inserts are '''1/4"''' and they are designed to be sanded flat after installation - there will be a number cast into the top of the part and the top edge will be slightly raised around the radius by approximately 1/32". Thus, when creating insert holes, you must drill slightly less than 1/4" deep to allow for the sanding.

=== Off the Shelf Parts ===

Thankfully there are a number of standard devices that appear on modern machines that can be used on custom games, saving the garage maker a lot of time and effort by providing ready-made parts that don't need to be made from scratch.

Most of these basics are available from [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=394&pg=1 Pinball Life] in the "Homebrew" section.

==== Microswitches ====

[[File:microswitch.jpg|Microswitch]]

The majority of switches in a game will consist of ones mounted under the playfield with a wire sticking up above that the ball will roll over to activate. Older games used leaf switches but modern one will use [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4624 microswitches]. These can be wired directly into your switch inputs and are '''normally open''' in that they make an electrical connection when the switch is activated.

==== Opto Switches ====

<span style="font-size:80%">The following information was sourced from a blog post by [http://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=1433 Scott Danesi] and used with permission.</span>

[[File:transmitter-opto.jpg|Transmitter]] [[File:receiver-opto.jpg|Receiver]]

The most common style of optos are the ''Bally/Williams'' '''WPC''' style [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=170 opto transmitter] and [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=171 receiver], available as an [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=168 assembly] ready to use. The LED emitter has no circuitry attached to it by default.

In order to safely power this type of LED, you will need to know the ''forward voltage'' of the LED, the ''maximum constant current'' that the LED can handle, what ''input voltage'' to supply to it (5v or 12v), and how much ''current'' to give the LED to ensure it has enough power to transmit infrared light to reach the opposite opto receiver.

For the ''WPC'' style opto the values are:

* '''Forward Voltage''': 1.7v
* '''Max Constant Current''': 100mA, but it is recommended to not exceed 75mA to maximize the life of the LED. This will be powerful enough to transmit a decent amount of distance between the emitter and receiver.
* '''Input Source Voltage''': 5v DC is recommended as it is higher than the forward voltage of the LED, and low enough that the resistor does not have to dissipate too much heat.

These LED emitters will need a current limiting resistor in series with them as applying 5v or 12v directly to the LED will cause it to overload and fail. Using a [http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz?VS=5;VF=1.7;ID=75 Resistance Calculator], the resistor value can be easily determined.

'''Important''': Be sure to use at least the minimum recommended resistor wattage. The calculator above is recommending at least a 1/2 watt resistor. Too small of a resistor and it can burn up,

On the receiver end, it can simply be wired directly to the inputs of your switch board. It will behave just like a standard switch as long as it is connected in the correct orientation. The ''cathode'' (ground) side of the emitter is the side with the flat indentation on the black epoxy base. However, note that opto receivers are '''normally closed''' switches and when it detects the IR beam from the emitter, it will be in a closed state, which is the opposite of a normal switch. When a ball breaks the opto beam it will go from a closed state to an '''open''' state, so your software needs to understand this.

==== Ball Trough ====

The trough is positioned at the bottom of the playfield and is used to collect all the balls used in standard game play. Originally holding only a single ball, it has evolved over the years and current versions can hold anywhere from one to six balls.

[[Image:ball-trough-example.jpg]]

Here is an original '''Gottlieb''' single ball trough:

[[Image:original-trough.jpg|500px]]

Here is an example of a ''Stern'' trough installed on a ''Batman'' playfield:

[[Image:ball-trough-stern.jpg|500px]]

Pinball Life offers an affordable [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4120 trough] that will work well in custom applications. It's available in a 3-ball and 6-ball version.

[[Image:pbl-trough.jpg]]

==== Slingshots ====

'''Slingshots''' are the objects above the flippers that kick the ball in the general direction of each other and towards the outlanes due to their upward angle. The lower playfield layout for modern machines has become a standard of two flippers, two outlanes, two inlanes, and two slingshots in a standard layout.

[[Image:slingshots-1.jpg]]

For example, here is a 1977 ''Gottlieb Mustang'' EM game illustrating the standard layout that has remained mostly unchanged in the last 30 years:

[[Image:lower-playfield.jpg|600px]]

The mechanism for slightshots involves a coil under the playfield that fires when a ball hits the rubber ring of the slingshot, closes one of two switches to register the hit, then propelling the ball in the opposite direction.

[[Image:bally-slingshot-diagram.jpg]]

Configuration for slingshots is not limited to just the standard layout, so home builders are free to layout slingshots in whatever manner they like. Occasionally even manufacturers themselves deviate from the standard layout - for example, ''Williams Space Station'' has no inlanes:

[[Image:space-station.jpg]]

==== Drop Targets ====

A Drop Target is a flat mechanical target that is held up on a small ledge and when hit with a ball, is moved backwards and dropped down via a small spring. There are generally switches for both the ''Up'' and ''Down'' positions but just a single ''Down'' switch will work. They can be arranged as single targets or in rows.

[[Image:drop-target-row.jpg|500px]]

Every manufacturer has their own designs and use a variety of switch types to detect the target position - ''Williams'' used optos while modern ''Stern'' games use microswitches.

Diagram of a standard ''Williams'' target including a drop coil:

[[Image:drop-target-diagram.png|500px]]

They are also available in an '''Inline''' format.

[[Image:inline-drop-targets.jpg|500px]]

Drop Targets are available in many of the usual mail-order establishments such as [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=410 Pinball Life] but usually come in only the standard colors such as Opaque Red, Yellow, Black or White. If you are planning on Back-lighting the drop targets with LEDs for effect or mode selection; Pinball-Mods.com offers Drop Targets in [https://Pinball-Mods.com/url/ClrDropTarget Frosted "Clear" Polycarbonate] for exactly this purpose. Make a [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Construction#Stencil_Cutter custom stencil] and you have a theme specific drop target.

==== Kickback ====

The kickback feature in a pinball machine allows the player to continue where they would have otherwise drained out of either outlane. A solenoid fires (not unlike an auto-plunger) against the ball, which quickly shoots it up the outlane and back into the playfield. For many games, this is enabled as part of the ball save and given to the player as a reward during normal play.

[[Image:kickback.jpg]]

The solenoid is mounted in the apron area, and a lane guide will need to be mounted for the ball to properly shoot upward and out. Normally there is a playfield lamp in the outlane to indicate to the player kickback is active.

==== VUK ====

Also known as ''Vertical Up-Kicker'', this is a scoop with a vertically mounted coil under the playfield with a plunger that kicks the ball vertically, typically through a scoop to bring a ball from one playfield to a higher one, or bring it up to wireform ramps. Scoop heights can vary, so there is really no stock part that will work in all applications.

Below you can see a VUK scoop made from cardboard, first cut out as a flat sheet, then folded up and glued along the edges (similar to bending sheet metal and tacking the gaps). An even better material to use is [[Construction#Foam_Core|Foam Core]].

[[Image: Vuk_scoop_flat.jpg|350px]]
[[Image: Vuk_formed.jpg|200px]]

After the scoop has been tested thoroughly (as with any design), it can be transferred to sheet metal and welded, or bent from PETG plastic and glued. Be sure to include tabs for mounting to the playfield.

==== Pop Bumper Bodies ====
Retail Pop Bumper Bodies are starting to come in nearly every color of the rainbow so you can somewhat easily match to color of bodies to your artwork, pop caps, or intended lighting. Pinball Life sells most standard colors in the [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3945 opaque] category and include Red, Blue, Orange, Yellow, and Black. Additionally PBL sells matching [https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3945 Skirts] in those same colors with the addition of Green, Teal, and Purple.

If you'd rather show art thru the pop bumper body and skirts; Pinball-Mods.com offers translucent [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/pm_pbumper popbodies] in Clear, Blue, Yellow, Orange, Red, Green, and Purple. They also offer Chrome opaque and Gold opaque. If you use their [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/ClrSkirt clear skirts]; you can have artwork under the skirt for that little extra flair.

==== Hangers ====

'''Hangers''' (sometimes spelled "hangars") are the brackets at the bottom of the playfield that attach to the lockdown bar mechanism to hold the playfield up. Every manufacturer seems to have slightly different styles. Early ''Williams'' used a Z-shaped bracket that installed from underneath the playfield.

[[Image:williams-hanger.png|400px]]

The currently available off-the-shelf bracket is the ''Stern/Sega'' bracket that has a gusset shape, and are mounted above the playfield rather than below.

[[Image:Stern_gusset_hanger.jpg]]

==== Off-the-shell Cabinet Parts ====
Custom pinball machine cabinets is becoming easier due to many vendors providing "mod" friendly cabinet parts.

===== Flipper Buttons =====

[[Image:Pbl_a-16883.jpg|150px]]
Pinball-Life sells both [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1692 opaque] and [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3332 translucent] modern flipper buttons compatible with Stern and late model Williams cabinets.

[[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_Buttons.jpg|150px]] [[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_Housings.jpg|150px]]

Pinball-Mods.com offers both the [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/pm_btns Buttons] and [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/pm_btnhouse Housings] for early solid state machine cabinets by Bally, Gottlieb, Stern, and Chicago Coin which can be lit with LEDs using a technique documented in a [http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/classic-bally-stern-clear-buttons-vids-review Pinside thread].

=== Switch Types ===

There are a number of options when selecting switches, all of which have been used in pinball machines over the years.

A '''Leaf''' switch consists of two metal blades held together in a contact assembly, with one of the blades generally being longer than the other. In a normally-open leaf switch, the longer blade is pushed toward the shorter blade to close the circuit. On a modern pinball machine, only normally-open switches are used.

[[Image:switch-1.gif|300px]]

A '''Microswitch''' is a small enclosed switch that has a sheet metal blade or wire actuator to operate the switch. The actuator is not electrically connected to the switch contacts, so it can be used in situations where directly moving one of the switch leaves would be dangerous. The blade or wire actuator can be bent into a convenient shape for the game requirements

Microswitches with wire actuators are used for playfield roll-overs. The wire is bent to stick up through a slot in the playfield. When the ball rolls over the wire, it pushes down on the wire which operates the switch. Ones with blade actuators are used for detecting a ball passing through a gate. As the ball moves the wire gate, one end of the wire swivels down to press the blade which operates the switch.

[[Image:switch-3.gif]] [[Image:switch-2.gif]]

'''Optical''' switches use an infra-red light emitting diode (LED) to activate a photo transistor. There are three variations that are useful in pinball machines:

[[Image:switch-4.gif]] [[Image:switch-5.gif]] [[Image:switch-6.gif]]

* '''Slot-Type''': A slot-type optical switch has the LED and the photo transistor mounted in the legs of a "U" shaped plastic. The light emitting diode is always on, and a "blade" that moves in and out of the slot interrupts the beam turning the photo transistor on and off.
* '''Reflective''': An optical switch that has the LED and the photo transistor mounted side-by-side and facing outward. When a reflective surface comes near the switch, the beam from the LED reflects back to the photo transistor. Typical range for this type of switch is 3-6 millimeters or 1/8" to 1/4".
* '''Separates''': An optical switch that has the LED and photo transistors in separate packages. The light emitting diode is always on, and an object moving between the LED and the photo transistor interrupts the beam turning the photo transistor on and off. The range for this type of switch can be up to 30 centimeters or 12".

'''Proximity''' switches may be ''inductive, ultrasonic, capacitive, or optical''. A proximity switch detects the presence or absence of something within a certain ''proximity'' (or range) of the switch.

'''Inductive''' proximity switches work in two different ways. The '''Active''' type, an oscillator generates an electromagnetic field. When an electrically or magnetically conductive object enters the field of the oscillator, its frequency is altered, and the output switches. This type of switch can only be used when oscillator field will not sense too large an area. The '''Passive''' type uses a coil with an iron core or a semiconductor in a magnetic field (Hall effect sensor). A moving, magnetically conductive object disturbs the magnetic field and generates an electric current. This type of switch is not sensitive enough to detect a pinball reliably. It is used for detecting regular movement like gear wheel teeth rotating past, or with a magnet in a keyboard switch.

'''Capacitive''' proximity switches work in two different ways. The '''Passive''' type has a sensor that consists of two concentrically mounted electrodes (which are the electrodes of an opened capacitor). When an object approaches the sensor, the electrostatic field is changed. (It changes in opposite directions for conductive and non-conductive materials.) This change is detected by the switch. The '''Active''' type capacitive switches operate by generating a radio frequency. As an object approaches, the impedance seen by the radio frequency changes. This influence is measured within the circuitry and compared with the reference point set by the sensitivity adjustment.

The key factor for a switch is that it ''electrically completes a circuit'', so they can consist of any two conductive objects being connected - so, even the pinball itself can be used as a switch if it connect two wires together!

=== Playfield Parts ===

The best source of parts like switch targets, pop bumpers, posts and other miscellaneous bits is from parts machines - picking up a used machine with a worn playfield and just cleaning up those parts will be ten times cheaper than buying all new parts.

However, given the increasing value of even older solid-state machines, finding games to part out is becoming increasingly difficult, so the only option may be purchasing new.

Once a preliminary [[Design|design]] is complete, the next step is to create an initial prototype, known in the industry as a '''Whitewood'''.

== Whitewood ==

The origin of the term ''whitewood'' is related to the material of the playfield, which is traditionally '''White Maple'''. The first iteration of a game will not have any artwork or lighting as the purpose is to test the layout, flipper shots and the overall ''feel'' of the design to confirm it plays as expected.

The second iteration of the whitewood - generally a different playfield rather than the existing one re-cut - will include inserts, lighting and any ramps or playfield devices needed for the complete game. This version of the prototype is used to create the first iteration of the ruleset and special effects.

Here is an unpopulated whitewood for Cirqus Voltaire, which is a later iteration that does have inserts for lighting, but not yet having artwork.

[[Image:cv-whitewood.png]]

Here is a populated whitewood for AC/DC, which does not have the later sub-playfield so is much earlier in the design process.

[[Image:acdc-whitewood.png]]

Typically a playfield is made of 9-ply birch plywood, '''17/32"''' thick with the additional 1/32" allowing for the inserts to be sanded flush. A number of European manufacturers used plastic playfields, and some domestic companies experimented with them in the 1970's, but the vast majority use plywood.

===Playfield Sizes===
Here is a list of playfield sizes by various manufacturers;

{|class="wikitable" style="border-width: 5px;" cellpadding="10"
!Company
!Type
!Style
!Inches
|-
|Alvin G
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Alvin G
|SS
|Mystery Castle
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Atari
|SS
|Widebody
|27.00" x 45.00"
|-
|Bally
|EM
|Standard
|20.25" x 41.00"
|-
|Bally
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Bally
|SS
|Widebody
|26.75" x 40.50"
|-
|Capcom
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Data East
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Data East
|SS
|Widebody
|25.00" x 51.75"
|-
|Game Plan
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|EM
|Standard
|20.25" x 41.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 1
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Widebody
|23.75" x 46.50"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Circus (Extra Wide)
|26.75" x 46.50"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 3
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Stern Electronics
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Stern Electronics
|SS
|Widebody
|23.875" x 45.00"
|-
|Stern Pinball
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 45.00"
|-
|Williams
|System 1-11
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Williams
|System 1-11
|Widebody
|27.00" x 42.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC
|Safecracker
|16.50" x 41.50"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (through 1987)
|Standard
|20.50" x 42.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (1987 on)
|Standard
|20.25" x 44.5"
|-
|WMS
|WPC
|Superpin (Widebody)
|23.00" x 46.00"
|-
|WMS
|Pinball 2000
|Standard
|20.50" x 43.00"
|-
|Zaccaria
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|}

=== Foam Core ===

When creating an initial whitewood to test shots, install the lower third (flippers, slingshots) and side rails, but use '''Foam Core''' for your ramps and any upper playfield stuff. It is easy to cut and form with hot glue, quickly and cleanly. It is also strong enough to endure test playing without breaking.

[[Image:foam-core.jpg|500px]]

Use '''1/4" to 1/8"''' for ramp bottoms, and hot glue thinner '''posterboard''' on the sides. You can also use posterboard for the transitions between the playfield and the ramps. Trace the shape of the ramp on the foam core, cut it out, then glue on thinner sides.

Foam core can also be used for stand ups, pop bumpers and other devices to test other shots. Either stack it or stand it up and glue it together. Use hot glue for everything - easy to use, dries quickly, holds strong, and you can rip it apart to change things as needed.

[[Image:foam-core-4.jpg]]

When complete, the game should be basically playable in terms of playfield and ramp shots, and if the game plays okay with foam core, it will play even better in plastic and metal.

[[Image:foam-core-2.jpg|500px]]

An alternate to foam core (which can be pricey at $7 for a 2' x 3' sheet), is cardboard. It is a material that is readily available in multiple thicknesses and footprint sizes, often obtainable for free since it's such a highly recycled material. It can be bent at angles and remain stiff in fluted versions, or bent in a curve by squishing the flutes down, very similarly to sheet metal. Since cardboard has no foam inside, it can often be stiffer and closer to a harder material like plastic. It is as easily cut with an x-acto blade or scissors.

=== Cutting ===

(Sourced from a tutorial by Josh Kugler) [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=843.0]

Before proceeding with any cutting, a completed playfield drawing is needed, to be used as a template. For details on that portion of the process, visit the [[Design]] section of the wiki. One tip that will help later is to add centering lines to all the drilled insert circles to aid in proper placement.

Once complete, take the file to a ''FedexOffice'' or similar '''Printing House''' and have it printed full size. Use '''3M Spray adhesive''' to glue the print to your playfield surface. This print acts as your drilling and cutting template.

[[Image:pf-cutting-1.png|500px]]

Use two '''Forstner bits''' for each insert. The first is the wider opening that is the same size as the insert, drilled to the appropriate depth of the insert which is typically '''1/4"'''. The second bit is '''1/16"''' smaller can then be used to drill the through hole. This leaves a '''1/32"''' lip for the insert to sit on.

Since the Forstner bit has a centering point there is a natural centering hole for the second bit, making it easier to get it lined up right. The cleanest technique is to drill just short of going through, and then complete the hole from the other side using a standard cordless drill.

[[Image:pf-cutting-2.png|500px]]

Don’t do the three steps in order per hole, but the first step for a bunch of holes, then the second and third.

For creating a non-circular insert, use a router with a template and '''Bushing guide''' - a router bit with a small roller bearing on it runs along your guide, while the cutting head runs in the playfield to cut the hole to the size of the template. Creating the template is the hard part, but once you have that, it is relatively easy to route multiple holes for the inserts. This is a three step process similar to the circular inserts.

As with the circular inserts, first create the ''wider'' opening. This is done by clamping the template to the playfield and then routing the wider opening using the bearing bit.

Drill a couple of holes in the center of the insert so there is less to route. This is also helpful when doing the second step, of cutting out the inner opening, that is slightly smaller then the insert opening, since the router bit can start in one of the holes and not have to be plunged into the wood.

[[Image:pf-cutting-4.png|500px]]

A '''3/16"''' bit and a '''5/16"''' bushing/guide offers the best results, which gives a lip of 1/16", a little bigger then for the circular inserts. This second routing can be done without a template, since the insert opening itself can act as the template.

[[Image:pf-cutting-3.png|500px]]

== Cabinet ==

Made from '''3/4"''' plywood, mitre-jointed at the corners. Some of the considerations when designing or building a pinball cabinet include:

* Switch locations
* Side rails
* Lockdown bar mechanism
* Plunger height
* Coindoor size
* Leg mounting brackets
* Speaker bezel

There are typically two cabinet styles, '''Standard''' body and '''Wide''' body.

=== Cabinet Parts ===

If building a ''Williams'' style standard cabinet, '''VirtuaPin''' offers a [http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=9 Ultimate Cab-Builder's Kit] that has all the cabinet-specific parts in one handy kit.

[[Image:cabinet-parts.jpg|500px]]

When cutting your cabinet for the coin door, keep in mind it is installed with four bolts centered on the bottom, sides and top, and that the top hole goes through the lockdown bracket. So both need to line up.

[[Image:coin-door-lockdown.jpg|500px]]

== Electronics ==

Once the physical playfield is constructed, wiring it all together and adding a way to control the devices will be required. There are three basic options - use existing pinball boards, build custom control boards or purchase off-the-shelf units.

=== Existing Boards ===

A popular option is using boards from existing machines and replacing the main controller. For example, the '''Gottlieb System 3''' driver board uses modern MOSFET drivers, supports 32 coils and a 8x10 lamp matrix, and is available for $100 from [http://www.pbresource.com/stargate/gtb-ma1358.jpg Pinball Resource].

[[Image:sys3-driver.png|800px|Schematic for the Gottlieb System 3 Driver board]]

Another well documented system is the original [http://rottendog.us/BPS022.html Bally system].

=== Custom Boards ===

* '''[[OPP|Open Pinball Project]]''' is a low-cost, DIY solution for basic pinball control and is a good way to learn pinball control systems. There is extensive documentation hosted on this wiki.
* '''[https://github.com/LonghornEngineer/Pinheck_Pinball_System Pinheck]''' is a system designed by Ben Heck for use in America's Most Haunted and is not currently available in kit form, but you can download the design and have it printed yourself for use in your own games.
* '''[https://github.com/stu/system_shock System Shock]''' is a work-in-progress and currently only the driver board is available for download.

=== Off-the-Shelf Boards ===

* '''[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/index.php/products/p-roc P-ROC]''' (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller) is a well-supported generic platform that is in use by many custom games. It has a dedicated [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/ forum].
* '''[http://fastpinball.com/ FAST Pinball]''' has controllers and board comparable to P-ROC.

=== Controller PCs ===

Most off-the-shelf systems require an external PC with USB to provide the signals to control the solenoids and lamps. Currently these small ARM-based boards are the best candidates as they are more powerful than the '''Raspberry Pi''' or '''Arduino''' boards:

* '''[http://ameridroid.com/products/odroid-c1 O-DROID]''' : Quad-core CPU, dual-core GPU, 1GB DDR3 RAM, Gigabit Ethernet , 4x USB2.0 ports.
* '''[http://beagleboard.org/BLACK Beaglebone Black]''': AM335x 1GHz ARM® Cortex-A8, 512MB DDR3 RAM, 4GB 8-bit eMMC on-board flash storage
* '''[http://cubieboard.org/model/cb3/ CubieTruck]''': ARM® Cortex™-A7 Dual-Core, 2GB DDR3, HDMI & VGA 1080P display output, 10M/100M/1G Ethernet, Wifi + BT, SATA 2.0 , NAND+MicroSD or TSD+ MicroSD or 2*MicroSD

=== Coil Sizes ===

[[Image:coil.jpg]]

When choosing coils, it is important to understand how coil sizing works.

For example, decoding the ''Williams'' part number '''AL-23-550''' has three parts - the prefix '''AL''' means the coil has base wire lugs on the left and middle of the coil's base, while '''23''' is 23 gauge wire and '''550''' is the number of turns of wire. The more turns, the weaker the coil.

For more details on coils, check out the [http://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html Pinball Medic coil chart].

=== Power Supplies ===

[[Image:power-supply.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:power-supply-2.jpg]]

There are a couple of options when it comes to power.

* '''Commercial Pinball Transformer / Power Supply''': Most dedicated pinball transformers will provide various power level taps like '''6.3V''' for the GI and CPU, '''24V''' for basic coils and '''50V''' for flippers and other high-current coils. You'll need the comparable power supply board to convert the AC voltages to DC, or create the power supply yourself.
* '''[http://www.antekinc.com/ps-4n70-400w-70v-power-supply/ AnTek]''': The model '''PS-4N70R5R12''' provides high current '''70V''' as well as 1A '''5V/12V''' feeds to run the CPU and lights.
* '''[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=18&y=17&lang=en&site=us&keywords=285-1815-ND TDK-Lamda]''': Available from ''Digikey''. Model '''LS150-36''' is a '''36V''' switching supply, suitable for most standard coils but may not be enough for flippers or VUKs.
* '''[http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_295929_-1 Meanwell]''': The '''SE-600-48''' is a '''48V 12A''' supply which can be dialed up to 50v. There are also lower amperage 48V models such as the '''Meanwell NES-350-48''' which provides '''7A'''. Meanwell is a highly respected brand that make very good power supplies.
* '''[http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=cnc+power+supply&_nkw=cnc+power+supply&_sacat=0 eBay]''': Search for ''CNC Power Supplies''. These will often be '''48V''' high current switching supplies designed for stepper motors and will provide enough power for coils so long as the maximum current isn't exceeded.

==== Selecting Power Supplies ====

It is recommended to get at least a '''3A''' supply for coils. The quality, especially from China, is not always guaranteed. Be sure to choose one with a case that has adequate venting to prevent shorts if any metal items are dropped on the circuitry. Power supplies with fans are recommended. They typically won't turn on unless they get hot enough (Coils pulling excessive current, hot ambient temperature). Sometimes coils may pull more amps than the power supply can provide, so wiring in resistors and capacitors (to buffer energy) may be necessary so the power supply doesn't reset.

Computer power supplies are fine for CPU and some lighting, but won't provide enough current for solenoids. If using a standard PC as the CPU for the machine, there is a useful [http://scottdanesi.com/WP/?page_id=398 board] for controlling PC power supplies from the external high-current supply.

With modern switching power supplies, having one supply for coils and another for CPU / LEDs is common, so please remember that '''All grounds from all supplies need to be connected together''' otherwise it may create a '''floating ground''' situation that can lead to destroying boards and other electronics.

==== Capacitor / Filter Board ====

Using a modern switcher with coils means using a '''Capacitor Board''' between the supply and any solenoids to provide coils that sudden onrush of current. Some options include:

[[Image:power-entry.png|Power Entry PCB]]

The Multimorphic [https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry PCB] distributes AC power and up to 4 different DC voltages, generally 5v, 12v, 15v, and “high voltage” (typically 48v or 70v). A 12v relay enables the “high voltage” output. LEDs identify the presence of each of the 4 DC voltages.

[[Image:fast-power.png|FAST Power Filter Board]]

The FAST [http://fastpinball.com/platform/hardware/fast-power/fast-power-filter-board Power Filter Board] provides capacitor filtering and fusing.

For those interested in DIY solutions, the OPP [[OPP#Power_Filter_Board|Power Filter Board]] provides similar functionality.

== Wiring ==

Most pinball machines have wire harnesses of some type. As high-current devices, solenoids typically need a minimum of '''18AWG''' wire. Wiring for lighting and switches can be much thinner since it's pulling less current, particularly if using LEDs, so '''20-22AWG''' wiring is acceptable for low-current uses.

[[Image:wire-guages.png]]

=== Connectors ===

Most Pinball machines use the [https://www.molex.com/product/kk/kk.html Molex KK Series] connectors in the ''0.100"'' and ''0.156"'' sizes. There is a PDF with the part numbers from Mouser in the [[Files_Section Files]] section.

=== Wire Management ===

Because prototyping (or one-off) projects don't have pre-determined wire lengths and quantities, how wire is routed will change many times before the game is complete. It is highly recommended to use tie mount bases (with adhesive) versus clips that are permanently screwed into the playfield. That way they can be moved around as needed.

[[Image:wire-manage-1.gif|400px]]

It is also recommended to use re-usable tie-wraps, which allow repeated opening and closing as needed.

[[Image:wire-manage-2.jpg]]

Here is an example of a prototype playfield using these types of wire holders:

[[Image:wire-manage-3.jpg|400px]]

=== Wiring Harness ===

Once the final wiring layout is complete, paper templates of the playfield layout on thick cardboard or wood paneling can be used to make a '''Wiring Pinboard''', similar to the boards that the manufacturers use to make their '''Wiring Harnesses'''. Place nails in appropriate spots and run wires as needed, with tie-wraps.

[[Image:wiring-pinboard-2.jpg|400px]] [[Image:wiring-pinboard.jpg|600px]]

=== Color Coding ===

To aid in troubleshooting and wire layout, pinball companies use '''color-coded''' wire, where it has one color as the main jacket and a second color as a smaller stripe, allowing for many color combinations. For instance, Williams used yellow and white wire for lamps.

Getting a full stock color-coded wire can be very expensive, but the folks at [https://missionpinball.com/ Mission Pinball] came up with a cheaper alternative method of properly color-coding wire using cheap PVC piping.

[[Image:wire-marker-1.jpg|500px]]

Start with purchasing single-color wire in 50' - 100' spools. Get 18 and 20AWG spools for each type of wiring. The more base colors to start, the better.

Next, get some '''oil-based''' markers, which can be found at local hobby stores. One notable brand is Sharpie, and they should be labeled specifically as oil-based paint markers - water-based will scratch or wipe off easily. They will be more expensive but are the only type that work correctly.

Although Mission used a wood block to hold the markers, using a PVC '''T joint''' and drilling a hole through it in the center allows the placement of the paint marker in the T portion of the joint and pressing down on the wire as it passes through works very well.

[[Image:wire-marker-2.png|500px]]

=== Matrix Color Coding ===

Where color-coding is particularly important is in '''Switch''' and '''Lamp Matrix''' layouts. Plan ahead and design your color scheme before starting the construction of the game in a spreadsheet.

Below is an example of a color layout for a custom game. This document can be referenced during construction to make sure the right wire is going to the right switch, lamp or coil, avoiding troublesome issues later during the testing phase.

[[Image:matrix-spreadsheet.png|700px]]

== Displays ==

==== Numeric / Alphanumeric ====

Numeric or Alphanumeric score displays are sometimes chosen even today because of the ease of programming - they display simple scores or lines of text only, so no complicated graphics need to be designed or coded. That means more time to concentrate on gameplay versus interfacing with the player.

==== Gas Plasma ====

The first commercial solid-state displays in common usage were '''Gas Plasma''' displays. They use high voltage to cause a noble gas like neon to glow. Shaping the conductive layers into digits allows the display of multiple numbers or letters.

[[Image:gas-plasma.jpg]]

These types of displays are not only dangerous, due to the high voltages required, they are prone to burn-out or out-gassing, and have been obsolete for many years. Unless re-theming an older game and wanting to re-use existing parts, or trying to maintain a retro look, it is suggested to use '''LED''' replacements.

==== LED Displays ====

[[Image:led-display.jpg]]

The pinball after-market has produced a number of excellent plug-and-play LED display replacements.

* [http://xpinpinball.com/ X-PIN] has 6- and 7-segment displays as well as alphanumerics.
* [http://www.pinscore.com/products/pinball-displays Pinscore] has retrofit kits for older machines.
* [http://www.pinled.de/shop/index.php PinLED] in Europe has a variety of options available.

Additionally, there are many generic LED displays to choose from:

* [http://www.adafruit.com/categories/103 Adafruit] offers a number of LED segment displays with instructions on programming them with various microcontrollers.

=== Dot Matrix ===

[[Image:dmd-closeup.png]]

Modern games make use of either a gas plasma or LED '''Dox Matrix Display''' or '''DMD'''. They work on the same principle as the segment display except they use round pixels in a grid pattern - or ''matrix'' - to display game information.

[[Image:dmd-display.png]]

The complexity with these displays is that the programmer must construct numbers or letters in a graphic format and then push that data to the display. Rather than program "display 300,000", they must use '''bitmap''' fonts and determine screen placement.

However, many [[Programming#Frameworks|programming frameworks]] currently available offer this functionality built in and are an excellent place to start learning about game graphics.

Other options for matrix displays include:

[[Image:small-dmd.png]]

* [http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/75-peggy2 Evil Mad Scientist] offers the Peggy 2 DMD kit for exploring DMD programming.
* [http://www.adafruit.com/categories/326 Adafruit] has a variety of matrix boards with programming instructions included.
* [http://www.embeddedadventures.com/led_matrix_displays_category.html Embedded Adventures] has kits as well.

=== LCD Display ===

The trend for modern games is using '''LCD''' screens in place of DMDs or other older display technologies. Full color with high resolution, the results can be very attractive. However, at this level a game designer essentially becomes a videogame designer. A pinball maker has to wear many hats but it is the rare individual who can do both construction ''and'' handle graphics duties.

There is some discussion of the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1026.0 technical] side of graphical displays on the pinballcontrollers Forum.

== Lighting ==

Pinball lighting comes in two varieties - ''incandescent'' and ''LED''. Older incandescent games can be retrofitted with modern LED lamps, or when fully customizing, replaced with custom board-mounted LEDs or [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Basics#Serial_Chain_LEDs Serial Chain LEDs].

=== Socket Styles ===

For incandescent, most lighting is socketed either by a '''bayonet''' or '''wedge''' socket.

[[Image:wedge-base.jpg]]

[[Image:bayonet-base.jpg]]

''Bayonet'' is preferred since the bulb is more likely not to wiggle itself out from vibration during play and transport. While pinball started out with incandescent bulbs, most are moving towards LED for many reasons:

* Less power draw
* More color options
* Lasts longer which means replacing less often
* Less damaging. The constant heat/cool from incandescent bulbs are known to warp plastics and cause flaking on backglasses.

=== Bulb Mount Types ===

The most common sizes are the '''#44/#47 Bayonet''' Base, the '''#555 Wedge''' Base, the '''#89 Bayonet''' and the '''#906 Wedge'''.

[[Image:led-bulbs.jpg]]

One drawback of LED's are that they don't have a ramp-up of brightness like incandescent bulbs, and sometimes they can be bright enough to hurt the eyes. The ramp-up effect can be emulated in software if the lamp controller has enough brightness levels, and diffusion-style bulbs help the brightness issue. They are best used as '''General Illumination'''.

[[Image:coin-taker-bulb.jpg]]

Modern ''Stern'' games going forward use a '''Surface Mount LED''' board that are driven directly which eliminates the need for sockets altogether. The drawback to these are that the boards are directly soldered, so if there are issues, they can't be easily replaced. However, the long life of LEDs makes it unlikely for them to burn out at the rate incandescent lamps do.

For a custom game, a combination of '''Cointaker [http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc?categoryId=211 Premium Frosted]''' or '''Ablaze [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2561 4-LED]''' for GI and the '''FAST Pinball [https://squareup.com/market/fast-pinball-llc/fast-rgb-led-insert RGB LED Insert]''' or '''Multimorphic [https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/rgb-led/ RGB LED]''' boards for inserts are a good choice.

=== Custom LED Boards ===

Many vendors provide custom lighting solutions which might not fit in a traditional socket as above or have specific pinball specific uses.

[[Image:brite-cap.png|300px|BriteCaps EVO]]

One example is the [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3624 BriteCaps EVO] mod for #555 Pop bumpers. These PCBs plug into the #555 socket typically found in most modern pop bumper assemblies.

[[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_StarRolloverLED.png|300px|Star Rollover LED]]

Pinball Mods offers a [http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/StarRolloverLED Star Rollover LED] which shines 4 LEDs from the underside of a [http://www.pbresource.com/bigindian/gtb-d11966c.jpg star rollover] and has a hole in the center to allow the switch actuator to function properly on the leaf switch.

[[Image:lit-flip-2.jpg|300px|Light up Flipper buttons]]

For lighting translucent flipper buttons, a #44 socket and the Cointaker '''[http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc;jsessionid=7A7CECA77E05B788FA02BB59CAE187C7.m1plqscsfapp05?categoryId=166 44/47 Flex Super Bright]''' lamps can be installed by attaching the socket under the flipper button and out of the way of the Flipper Button Leaf Switch.

[[Image:Pinball-Mods_com_FlipperMod.gif|200px|Flipper Mod]]

Pinball Mods offers the '''[http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/FlipperBtnMod Flipper Button Mod]''' which displays a rotating 12 LED pattern behind early solid state Flipper buttons for project using the [http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Construction#Flipper_Buttons older style flipper buttons].

== Custom Parts ==

Many hobbyists plan on producing games with game-specific features that aren't included in other machines, such as ramps or ball control devices, and thus will have to design and construct mechanisms from scratch. This generally involves metalworking, welding and other more advanced skills, but are not beyond the garage hobbyist.

=== Plastics ===

There will likely be many plastic shields scattered on the playfield to:

* Hide mechanisms
* Improve aesthetics
* Prevent a launched ball from getting stuck in a crevice

While using a laser cutter would be ideal, it is possible to produce plastics with basic hand tools. It is recommended to buy something easier to cut than acrylic, such as ''1/16" PETG'', which can be purchased from [http://www.mcmaster.com/#petg/=xs5xgh McMaster]. This can be cut fairly easily with strong scissors (or an x-acto if used carefully), and like acrylic it can be flame polished.

To create artwork, the best method is to print it on ''photo paper'', and then use a ''spray adhesive'' to attach it to the bottom of the plastic. Examples include ''3M Super 77'' (try to find the 25% lower VOC verison). These products dry clear and will not yellow.

[[Image: Spray_adhesive_3m.jpg]]

'''Please use caution when using this product as it is extremely volatile!'''

First, trace the shape to be cut on the thin blue film on top of the plastic. Remove the film from the bottom where art is being applied. The artwork should be just slightly bigger than the plastic to ensure there are no gaps when trimmed.

[[Image: Plastics_overlap1.jpg|300px]]

Make sure to spray in light, even coats on the backside of the plastic. Let it get tacky for 10-15 seconds, then move the printed art (art side up) over, and turn the plastic over and apply the plastic onto the paper - this will make it easier to line it up.

[[Image: Plastics_spray2.jpg]]

This is what it will look like when first applied. The adhesive will turn clear as it dries.

[[Image: Plastics_apply3.jpg|300px]]

Once the adhesive has dried, the holes can be drilled starting with a small bit, and working up to the hole size needed.

[[Image: Plastics_hole_drill4.jpg|300px]]

Trim off the excess paper by using the plastic as a guide. Trim slow and carefully as to not dig into the plastic with the knife.

[[Image: Plastics_trim5.jpg|300px]]

Here's an example of prototyped plastics installed on the slingshots:

[[Image: Plastics_installed6.jpg]]

The white paper acts as a nice diffuser to spread the light out, just like the white ink layer on screenprinted plastics.

[[Image: Plastics_lit_up7.jpg|300px]]

=== 3D Printing ===

(From Wolfmarsh's [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wolfs-beginner-guide-to-3d-printing-and-pinball Pinside] tutorial)

The big revolution in garage building is 3D printing.

The most popular among home machines is '''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling Fused Deposition Modeling]''' (FDM for short). '''FDM''' is where a thermoplastic filament is slightly melted, extruded through a small nozzle, and deposited in layers to build up the object. Most home printers use this method.

Here is an image that gives the general idea. One is the ''Extruder'', two is the deposited ''Layers'', and three is the ''Build platform''.

[[Image:3d-1.png]]

A second method that is popular with the higher end machines, is '''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering Selective Laser Sintering]''' (SLS). With '''SLS''', a layer of powder is deposited on the build surface, then a laser melts specific areas together. The build surface lowers a fraction of a millimeter, and more powder is deposited. Repeat until the object is built. Here are a couple short videos that shows how SLS works:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=sFpSxX0SzgY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-6ItiCbYFvI

==== Buying a Printer vs Using a Service ====

Most home printers will print using plastic filament and FDM. Services like [http://www.shapeways.com/ Shapeways] can afford higher end printers that offer higher resolution with SLS.

For most of what a garage builder will do, FDM and home printing will cover it. If a full color print or some very fine details are needed, like screw threads, the part can be ordered from ''Shapeways''.

If planning to purchase a home printer, it is recommended to read the [http://makezine.com/volume/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/ Make Guide to 3D printers]. One option is the '''[http://printrbot.com/shop/simple-metal-kit-with-heated-bed/ Printrbot Simple Metal Kit]''' with a Heated Bed upgrade. There are many clones coming out now that patents have run out. If you look at the flashforge, there are 2-3 clones that are as cheap as half cost. Monoprice has a few options. While heated bed isn't necessary for PLA, heat does seem to help all materials and is necessary for ABS. Choice of materials will come down to nozzle temp, but you want one that can handle at least 230C or higher.

[[Image:3d-2.jpg]]

Generally with the lower cost kits, the only real sacrifice is speed and maximum build size.

==== Printing an Object ====

The easiest way to get into 3D printing without having to create models is to download pre-made models. A great source for this is '''[http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]'''. Pinball parts are starting to appear on Thingiverse, so there is a small library already available.

For example, [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608164 here] is a shooter lane designed by Pinside contributor swinks:

[[Image:3d-3.jpg]]

Download an '''.STL file''' of the model to print. It contains the geometry for the object in a language the printing software can understand. Once you have the .STL file, you feed it to a '''Slicing program''' like '''[http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r]'''. A slicing program takes a 3D model and cuts it into the layers needed to feed to the 3D printer.

Here is a quick example of how it works. The model is on the left, and the sliced version on the right.

[[Image:3d-4.jpg]]

Once the object has been sliced, the program will generate a '''G-code''' file, which is the common language that CNC machines use.

A G-code file looks like this:

G1 X52.008 Y54.121 E2.04455
G1 X51.948 Y52.484 E2.13013
G1 X51.969 Y52.373 E2.13608
G1 X52.042 Y50.606 E2.22844
G1 X52.067 Y50.514 E2.23342
G1 X52.258 Y48.934 E2.31658
G1 X52.708 Y48.561 E2.34712
G1 X52.998 Y48.608 E2.36247
G1 X54.421 Y48.632 E2.43686
G1 X54.532 Y48.659 E2.44282

This example is a bunch of G1 commands that tell the machine to move to a specific X position, a specific Y position, and to Extrude a specific amount of filament. The G-code file gets loaded into the '''Printer control software''', and slowly fed to the printer as it prints the object.

The Printrbot example above can be driven using a '''Raspberry PI''', running a special image called [http://octoprint.org/download/ '''OctoPi]'''. It provides a web interface to the printer.

If everything worked as expected, at the end of the print process there is a real, complete object based on the models:

[[Image:3d-5.jpg]]

If things don't go well, it may end up as a bunch of trash plastic. It happens.

[[Image:3d-6.jpg]]

The key is to experiment and find shapes that work well, and to design shapes with the properties of the materials being used - if building brackets to hold coils, the resulting bracket should be thick enough to maintain its shape when the coil fires. The following is an example from ''America's Most Haunted.''

[[Image:3d-7.jpg]]

While all 3d printers should be monitored, once the first few layers stick it's generally safe for them to run un-monitored. PEI sheet beds help sticking, as do things like buildtak and zebra bed. This is much more convenient than replacing blue tape every build. As of this writing, there has never been a 3d printer reported to have thermal runaway and melt. Not to say electronics can't fail, but it's very unlikely. It's not uncommon for users to run batch print jobs overnight while they sleep. Some users have experimented with running jobs while not at home, but this usually requires both a webcam to monitor the print job, and a remote shutdown circuit that is internet enabled through a simple computer like arduino or a raspberry pi.

Software can make a big difference not only in build quality, but build support breakaway. Pay Programs like Simplify3d are not only superior in both of these, but it also spits out g-code very quickly. It also keeps updating with default printer settings as new printers come out. For free software, Cura seems to be the #1 choice.

=== Vacuum-Forming ===

(Sourced from a tutorial by Josh Kugler) [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1338.0]

Doing simple vacuum-forming in your garage is straight-forward. The basic idea is to use a standard oven to heat up a sheet of plastic until it softens, then place it over a pre-made ''form'', using a vacuum to pull the plastic down around the form.

Materials needed to create the vacuum-former include:

* Wood Strips
* Pegboard (2' x 4')
* Plywood
* Shop Vac or similar

Sizes are not critical - the available space in the oven will determine the maximum final size of any pieces formed - so the unit should be built slightly larger than that.

[[Image:vac-form-1.png|500px]]

Create a box using the wood strips and plywood, and caulk it to make it airtight.

[[Image:vac-form-2.png|500px]]

Drill a hole the same size as the intake hose on your vacuum in the side or bottom of the box, and attach the pegboard to the top of the box. When you place your form on top of the box, then the heated plastic, the vacuum will draw the heated plastic down.

Using an old picture frame, or a cheap one from IKEA, trim your plastic sheet to the same size and heat the plastic in the frame in the oven at 375 degrees, until it just starts to droop. Placing the frame and plastic on oven-safe jars will prevent it from touching the racks or surface of the oven if it should droop too far.

In this photo, the extra airholes are blocked by poster board to maintain the airtight seal.

[[Image:vac-form-3.png|500px]]

When creating forms, it is important to remember that it must be possible to cleanly remove the form once the process is complete, so things to avoid include:

* Large vertical surfaces
* Vertical holes

The best form is a pyramid shape, with the smallest details on top and increasing diameters to the base. Consider using a '''releasing agent''' to make removing the form easier - a non-stick spray or lubricant for example.

Creating the form itself can be done using foamcore, wood and bondo, aluminum or steel, depending on your available tools and ability. The smoother your initial form, the clearer your final pieces will be.

=== Welding ===

If you plan on making metal ramps or wireforms, welding will be required.

In order of quality, here are your welding options:

* '''TIG''': ''Tungsten Inert Gas'' arc welding is often employed to make welds on nickel alloys (like stainless steel), magnesium, aluminum, titanium and copper alloys. TIG welds can be made with or without metal fillers, unlike MIG welding, which exclusively employs filler metals to create welds.
** Pros: Pinpoints heat better than MIG welding, allowing for smaller, more precise welding, is a very clean process, creating no spatter whatsoever while a weld is being made.
** Cons: TIG welders are more expensive than MIG welders, and it is a more difficult process to master.
* '''MIG''': ''Metal Inert Gas'' arc welding is most often used with steel. MIG welders do not have to start and stop too often while welding, which allows for long, uninterrupted welds. Gas shields the weld, helping to prevent oxidation and spatter.
** Pros: Relatively clean, creating only a little spatter while welds are made, easier for beginners.
** Cons: Possibility of excessive melt-through and incomplete joint penetration or fusion, can be difficult to create a starting arc, welds are known to leave deposits that are heavily oxidized.
* '''Flux Core Wire Feed''': Arc welding without the shielding gas. Uses flux, similar to soldering, to flow metal.
** Pros: Cheapest form of MIG welding as it doesn't require compressed gas.
** Cons: More likely to produce dirty welds due to lack of shielding.
* '''Brazing''': Can be done with hand tools, but it requires a lot of heat for a long period of time in one spot, which weakens the surrounding steel. This makes it more susceptible to warping and bending due to stress. It can work, but it is not nearly as strong as MIG.

=== Wireforms ===

(From Matthew Bonnema's [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=959.0 Tutorial] on Wireform Fabrication)

One standard convention on modern pinball machines are wireform ramps. They can be made out of '''1/8" steel wire''' which can be purchased at most big box stores. If you don't have access or the skill to use welding equipment, wireform ramps can be fabricated from brass rods and soldered together using a small torch, flux, and solder. Spooky's America's Most Haunted was prototyped this way not only because Ben Heck was already used to soldering, but because brass is a little easier to form than low carbon steel.

==== Spacers ====

Spacers help to keep the proper distance between two rails in a wireform while it is being constructed. They can also be used for welding braces. A fair number of these will be needed - two or three per curve - plus a few oversized ones to allow for the grounding clamp from the welder if you're using one.

To make them, just measure the ball and figure out where you want the ball to ride in the rail, then drill two holes the same size as the stock you are planning on using.

[[Image:wireform-7.jpg|500px]]

Slide the spacers on and match the other wires bends carefully. Make sure to only bend the new wire and not the guide wire.

[[Image:wireform-8.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-9.jpg|500px]]

Use 16 and 20 gauge sheet metal for the spacers - 20 for tight bends and 16 for straightaways. It is easier to slide the 20 gauge down the curves.

If skinning wireforms, put supports on the under side to make them stronger. You can construct ramps by welding sheet metal over the tops of the rails at the ball entry points.

[[Image:wireform-10.jpg|500px]]

==== Loops ====

Loops are useful as entrance and exit points, and cut down can be used as bracing.

Take a piece of 1" PVC pipe and drill a hole centered on the pipe all the way through, roughly the same size of the stock that you intend to use.

[[Image:wireform-1.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-2.jpg|500px]]

Insert the stock all the way through and wrap it around really tightly. It will spring back a little, but if you are using a standard size pinball, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep the tension consistent all the way through the wrap.

[[Image:wireform-3.jpg|500px]]

With an '''Angle Grinder''' with '''Metal Cutting''' disc, cut as close to the initial bend to get as many loops as you can with out getting any of the curve in the cut.

'''''Take caution! This is a dangerous tool!'''''

[[Image:wireform-4.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-5.jpg|500px]]

A simple way to get really nice and easy loops. Bolt cutters, shears, a hacksaw, or wire cutters capable of cutting the wire you are using can also be used as an alternative to the angle grinder, although the loop ends will not be as clean. Free the loop of wire by pulling down on it slightly and clipping off the bent leg that goes through the pipe. Clip or saw each ring off, using the edge of the last ring cut as a guide.

[[Image:wireform-6.jpg|500px]]

Create supports by cutting the rings in half to make the supports. A large '''Side Cutter''' makes cutting the 1/8" steel stock easy and fast - just make sure to hold on to both pieces because they can fly apart. Eyeball guessing for the center on the rings is fine, but for consistency, measure for center.

[[Image:wireform-14.jpg|500px]]

==== Drawings ====

After making spacers and loops, the best starting point is using drawings made in one of the [[Design#Design_Software|drawing tools]] mentioned in the Design section. Match the form to the full-size 2D drawing during construction.

[[Image:wireform-drawing.jpg|500px]]

==== Welding ====

Cut a straight piece of stock, place it on the end of the rail and weld it up with a good tack. This will stop the wireform from twisting out of shape while putting the supports on. Use '''Welding Magnets''' (Usually about $3 each from most hardware stores) to hold the wire in position.

[[Image:wireform-15.jpg|500px]]

Clamp the ground for the welder to one of the jigs - you get a good, dependable circuit and it won't mess you up when you move it.

[[Image:wireform-16.jpg|500px]]

Time to weld!

Only weld with a '''Welding Helmet''' that is tight and won't fall off. If using a '''auto-darkening''' helmet, test its function before starting to weld. It should darken from the spark of a lighter.

[[Image:wireform-17.jpg|500px]]

First test the feed of the welder by pushing the button and watching how smooth the wire comes out. Having a jumpy feed can ruin a weld pretty fast. Then trim the wire to a comfortable length.

If the wire is too long, it will make spatter all over, while if too short, it could miss the joint and/or clog up the tip of the welder.

[[Image:wireform-18.jpg|500px]]

A good weld has clear signs of even heating and penetration through both parent metals (the grayish circle that surrounds the weld).

The bad weld example was done by having the wire overfed or having the wand to far from the surface. This creates a large amount of spatter, which on pinball rails is difficult to clean up due to the sizing.

It also has a distinct noise when done incorrectly - it sounds like bacon popping. A good weld has a consistent buzz sound.

[[Image:wireform-19.jpg|500px]]

After measuring where you want each support to go on the wireform, flip the rail over and set a half ring that was cut earlier across the two rails, using a magnet to hold it in place.

Make sure the ring is lined up with both sides of the rail. It should flow with curves and should be evenly placed.

[[Image:wireform-20.jpg|500px]]

A good welding technique to use is called '''Pushing the puddle'''. It is basically starting on the thicker material and pushing the molten puddle back into the thinner cross material.

==== Top Rail ====

With all the supports are welded, it's time for the top rails.

Take the PVC pipe used to make the rings from earlier and mount it to your workbench. Put the stock where the bend should be under the pipe and pull up, keeping a lot of force at the base.

[[Image:wireform-21.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-22.jpg|500px]]

Take the bent stock and lay it across the rail. Mark where it should get the first welds.

[[Image:wireform-23.jpg|500px]]

Go down the entire length of the wireform, bending the top rail wire by hand as close as possible to the form without welding. Welding and bending one after the other would cause the areas that have been welded to be much softer from the heat of the weld. This is called '''Annealing''', and your top rail bends will not match the cold bended main rail.

[[Image:wireform-24.jpg|500px]]

==== Finishing ====

Every now and then, bring your wireform back to the machine and test fit to make sure it is not getting warped from the heat of the welder.

[[Image:wireform-12.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-13.jpg|500px]]

During the fitting, mark areas for adding supports to hold the wireform.

After all the welding is complete, quickly run the whole wireform on a '''Fine Finishing Wire Wheel''' to clean it up and ready it for powdercoating or plating.

To see these parts powder coated and installed, see the ''DeadPin'' machine in the [[Custom_Games]] section.

=== Stencil Cutter ===

A '''Stencil Cutter''' is similar to a computer printer, except instead of printing it uses a small blade to cut paper, cardstock, vinyl, fabric, and other material. A good quality unit is the '''[http://www.silhouetteamerica.com/shop/machines/cameo Sihouette Cameo]''', available from Amazon.

There are two steps to creating quality stencils:

* The stencil material to cut with the Cameo
* The transfer tape used to transfer the weeded stencil to the part being painted

''Weeding'' is the process where you remove the parts of the cut stencil you don't need. The best material to use is '''[http://cricketvinylsupplies.com/gerbermask-I-ultra-stencil-film-paint-mask-14-x-1-yd Gerber 15 SM-4 Gerbermask 1 ULTRA]''' as it is thick enough to not clog the Cameo but allows for very fine detail. This is a medium tack pressure sensitive stencil material that has a slightly grainy white surface. It has a pressure-sensitive adhesive designed to work with a float solution like water with dish soap.

For the transfer tape, use '''[http://www.uscutter.com/RTape-Clear-Choice-AT65-All-Purpose-Medium-Tack-Application-Tape-100yd RTape Clear Choice AT65]''' which is a good general-purpose medium tack tape.

If working with an existing part, use a scanner to get a 1:1 image of the item to allow for vector tracing. Then bring the scan into a vector editor like '''Illustrator''' or '''Inkscape''', and create the vector outline of where the cuts should be made for the stencil.

[[Image:stencil-cut-1.jpg|300px]]

Once the vector is complete, the drawing can be imported into the ''Silhouette'' software bundled with the cutter to create a cut plot.

[[Image:stencil-cut-2.jpg|300px]]

At that point, the stencil can be cut and weeded.

[[Image:stencil-cut-3.jpg|300px]]

Apply the transfer tape to the stencil material, which allows it to be peeled off the backing and then applied to the surface to be painted.

[[Image:stencil-cut-4.jpg|300px]]

Pull the transfer tape off, leaving the stencil in place.

[[Image:stencil-cut-5.jpg|300px]]

At this point the part can be painted. Once the stencil is removed, the finished part is ready for installation.

[[Image:stencil-cut-6.jpg|300px]]

=== Ball Guides ===

Ball guides can be made from 18ga or 16ga stainless steel. Older Gottlieb guides were measured at 18ga, whereas some newer guides are 16ga. Heights for ball guides are typically no shorter than 1-1/8" (28.575mm).

You can buy some pre-cut guides from [https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-ball-guide-kit/ Mantis Amusements], '''Stainless 304''' cut to size from [http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=717&step=4&showunits=inches&id=30&top_cat=1 Online Metals] and '''Stainless 316''' strip from [https://www.mcmaster.com/#9090k1/=16kggof McMaster-Carr].

File:Molex-connectors.pdf

2018-10-14T14:43:24Z

Jwilson:

Files Section

2018-10-14T14:43:07Z

Jwilson: /* Parts Lists */

== Notice ==

Files located in this section are provided by Pinball Makers users and are not tested and/or confirmed to be accurate, so use them at your own risk.

If you are aware of any specific files being inaccurate or broken, please contact the administrators.

== Parts Lists ==

Molex KK Series connectors parts list: [[Media:molex-connectors.pdf]]

== Diagrams ==

Drawings and other diagrams with dimensions not in CAD format.

=== Cabinet ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:wpc-backbox-1.png|200px]]
|WPC Backbox (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-backbox-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-1.png|200px]]
|WPC full cabinet cut guide for 4" x 8" plywood
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-2.png|200px]]
|WPC Main cabinet side and back (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-2.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-3.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-3.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-4.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front for multiple ball launchers (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-4.png]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Upper 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper 3-6-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Head PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Lower 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower 4-13-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Lower PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower.pdf]]
|}

=== Playfield ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:williams-lower-playfield.png|200px]]
|WPC lower playfield dimensions (millimeter)
|[[Media:williams-lower-playfield.png]]
|-
|[[Image:williams-early-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early Solid State lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Williams_early_SS_c_size.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:stern-lower-pf.jpg|200px]]
|Stern lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Stern_c_size.pdf]]
|}

=== Devices ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough-diagram.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough (6-Ball)
|[[Media:6balltrough.ai]]
|}

== Schematics ==

Files for EagleCAD or general electronic schematics.

=== Original Equipment ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:gottlieb-system-3-image.png|200px]]
|Gottlieb System 3 Driver Board
|[[Media:gottlieb-system-3.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-sw.png|200px]]
|WPC Switch Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-sw.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-lamp.png|200px]]
|WPC Lamp Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-lamp.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-solenoid.png|200px]]
|WPC Solenoid design
|[[Media:wpc-solenoid.pdf]]
|}

== 2D CAD Drawings ==

For use in AutoCAD or DraftSight when doing playfield layout.

=== Playfields ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Williams_playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield
|[[Media:Williams_playfield.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:Williams_Playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield for Sketchup
|[[Media:Williams_Blank_Playfield.skp]]
|-
|[[Image:bally-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Bally SS Blank Playfield
|[[Media:bally-blank.dwg]]
|}

=== Ball Guides ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-inlane-guide.png|200px]]
|Ball Inlane Guide
|[[Media:Ball Inlane Guide (left) - 550-5037-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-lane-guide-top.png|200px]]
|Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided (03-7034) and Star Posts (03-8319) w/5-16 in rubber
|[[Media:Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided - 03-7034 - and Star Posts - 03-8319 w 5-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-1-7-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 1 7/8" (530-5005-00) with 7/16" OD Mini Post Rubber (23-6694-1)
|[[Media:Metal Post 1 7-8 in tall 530-5005-00 w 7-16 in OD Mini Post Rubber 23-6694-1.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-2-1-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 2 1/8" (530-5332-01) with Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1/16"
|[[Media:Metal Post 2 1-8 in tall 530-5332-01 w Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1-16 in.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:plastic-post.png|200px]]
|Narrow Plastic Post (03-8365) with 3/16" rubber
|[[Media:Narrow Plastic Post 03-8365 w 3-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spade-bolt.png|200px]]
|Spade Bolt (Offset)
|[[Media:Spade Bolt (Offset).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:star-post.png|200px]]
|Star Post (03-8319)
|[[Media:Star Post - 03-8319.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:shooter-lane.jpg|200px]]
|Shooter Lane Insert
|[[Media:shooter-lane.dwg]]
|}

=== Coil Assemblies ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-launcher.png|200px]]
|Ball Launcher (500-5477-01)
|[[Media:Ball Launcher 500-5477-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball (500-6119-14) and Enter Exit Scoop (535-7329-01)
|[[Media:Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball 500-6119-14 Enter Exit Scoop 535-7329-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-left.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/left mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Left).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-right.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/right mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Right).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-1.png|200px]]
|Magnet Bracket (A-15257) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Magnet Bracket A-15257 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-2.png|200px]]
|Threaded Core Weld Assembly (515-6141-01) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Threaded Core Weld Assembly 515-6141-01 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper.png|200px]]
|Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally
|[[Media:Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:slingshot-assembly.png|200px]]
|Slingshot Assembly (500-5849-00)
|[[Media:Slingshot Assembly - 500-5849-00.dwg]]
|}

=== Inserts ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Arrow
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Arrow.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Rectangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Rectangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-ro.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-t.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Triangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Triangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-5-8.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 5/8" Oval
|[[Media:Insert_1_5-8_in_Oval.dwg]]
|-
|}

=== Lights ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:socket-l.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Long (077-5005-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Long 077-5005-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-1.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5002-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5002-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-2.png|200px]]
|89 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5101-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5101-00.dwg]]
|}
=== Switches ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Switch and Bracket (A-12688)
|[[Media:Rollover Switch and Bracket A-12688.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spinner-assembly.png|200px]]
|Spinner Assembly (A-21801-2)
|[[Media:Spinner Assembly A-21801-2.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4)
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-2.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 2
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 2).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-3.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 3
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 3).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:5-target-bank.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Bank of 5
|[[Media:Drop Target Bank of 5.dwg]]
|}

== 3D templates ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template
|[[File:pop-bumper-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template-center.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template Center Holes
|[[File:pop-bumper-template-center.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template
|[[File:slingshot-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template-center.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template Center Holes
|[[File:sling-template-center.stl]]
|}

== Off the shelf parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.png|200px]]
|555 Lamp Socket 077-5030-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Staple Down F1P-E-12-07-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield F1P-E-12-06-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (Bally E-120-81)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.PNG|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Flush (Bally E-120-99)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Bally E-120-162)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Possibly Bally E-120-84)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket A-8798.png|200px]]
|89 Lamp Socket A-8798
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket A-8798.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Led bulb.jpg|200px]]
|LED bulb
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Led bulb.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:WPC Trough.png|200px]]
|WPC Trough Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Trough.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SHooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.png|200px]]
|Shooter lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Shooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Pop Bumper ASSY B-9414.png|200px]]
|WPC Pop Bumper Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Pop Bumper Assy B-9414.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target Sys11.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS11
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 bank Sys11 Drop Target Bank.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.png|200px]]
|5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 03-8033.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Wedge Top
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 03-8033.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.png|200px]]
|Kicker Arm Slingshot Assembly B-12665
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Kickout Hole SYS7.png|200px]]
|Kickout Hole Sys 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kickout Hole SYS7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Switch Rollover - Sys7.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Switch Sys7
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Switch Rollover - Sys7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover Lane Switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Microswitch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover Lane Switch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 002 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 002
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 002 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 003 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 003
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 003 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 004 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 004
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 004 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 005 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 005
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 005 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post PL-00172-OT.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1" - PL-00172-OT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post PL-00172-OT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-1/16"" - 03-8319-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-3/16"" - 03-8370-10
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/2" 03-8130-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post .png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/16" 03-8247-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20 .png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1" C-11561-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1-3/16" C-11562-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4 .png|200px]]
|Post 1" Concentric Fin C-951-4
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7 .png|200px]]
|Post 1-1/8" Concentric Fin C-952-7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02 .png|200px]]
|Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056 .png|200px]]
|Bumper Post 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at Top 02-4056
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 8-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 10-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.png|200px]]
|Post-Dual Ring 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at top 02-4423
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0001.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-5/8"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0001.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0002.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-1/2"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0002.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rubber Post Cap.png|200px]]
|Rubber Post Cap
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rubber Post Cap.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.png|200px]]
|1" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/16" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.png|200px]]
|5/8" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.png|200px]]
|3/4" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.png|200px]]
|3/4" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.png|200px]]
|1" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-1/2" Rectangular Insert - "Grid" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-5/8" Oval Insert
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.png|200px]]
|1-3/6"" Triangular Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/4 x 3/4"" Diamond Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-112TGT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.png|200px]]
|2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-T2RT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.png|200px]]
|2-1/2" Arrow Insert - 03-8359-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lightning_insert.jpg|200px]]
|Lightning Insert - PI-3-LO
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Lightning_insert.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover C-901.png|200px]]
|Rollover Insert C-901
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover C-9901.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide 03-8318-25
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.ZIP]]
|-
|[[Image:Stern-spinner-511-5113-00.jpg|200px]]
|Stern Spinner 511-5113-00
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Stern-511-5113-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Gate Assy 0001.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly -
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Gate Assy 0001.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Assembly WPC.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly WPC (coil is incorrect)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Assembly WPC.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 2inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 2 Inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 2inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 3inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 3 inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 3inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:03-7568 flipper bushing.jpg|200px]]
|Bally / Williams Bushing
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:03-7568 flipper bushing SW.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Opto Base MTG.png|200px]]
|Opto Base Mounting
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Opto Base MTG.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:PF Test1.PNG|200px]]
|Test PF shooter lane cut
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Test PF 1.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_williams_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Inlane
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane_williams_plastic.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_de-sega-stern_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Data East / SEGA / Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane DE-sega-stern.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Apron_stern.jpg|200px]]
| Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Apron stern.SLDPRT]]
|}

== Non Standard Parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Wireform bracket.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable wireform bracket to be used with any 1/8" round material (ABS, steel, polyethylene tubing, etc)
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Wireform bracket.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Loop_da_loop_ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable loop da loop ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Loop_da_loop_ramp.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Vertical loop ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable vertical loopback ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Vertical loop ramp.SLDPRT]]
|}

Files Section

2018-10-14T14:42:14Z

Jwilson: /* Notice */

== Notice ==

Files located in this section are provided by Pinball Makers users and are not tested and/or confirmed to be accurate, so use them at your own risk.

If you are aware of any specific files being inaccurate or broken, please contact the administrators.

== Parts Lists ==

== Diagrams ==

Drawings and other diagrams with dimensions not in CAD format.

=== Cabinet ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:wpc-backbox-1.png|200px]]
|WPC Backbox (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-backbox-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-1.png|200px]]
|WPC full cabinet cut guide for 4" x 8" plywood
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-1.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-2.png|200px]]
|WPC Main cabinet side and back (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-2.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-3.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-3.png]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-cabinet-4.png|200px]]
|WPC Cabinet front for multiple ball launchers (in millimeters)
|[[Media:wpc-cabinet-4.png]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Upper 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper 3-6-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Head PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Upper (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Upper.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7Cab Lower 200wide.png|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh),Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower 4-13-2017.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SYS7 Lower PDF SNIP.jpg|200px]]
|SYS7 Cabinet Lower (Pharaoh), PDF
|[[Media:Pharaoh Cabinet Lower.pdf]]
|}

=== Playfield ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:williams-lower-playfield.png|200px]]
|WPC lower playfield dimensions (millimeter)
|[[Media:williams-lower-playfield.png]]
|-
|[[Image:williams-early-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early Solid State lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Williams_early_SS_c_size.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:stern-lower-pf.jpg|200px]]
|Stern lower playfield
C-size for sending to print store (inches)
|[[Media:Stern_c_size.pdf]]
|}

=== Devices ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough-diagram.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough (6-Ball)
|[[Media:6balltrough.ai]]
|}

== Schematics ==

Files for EagleCAD or general electronic schematics.

=== Original Equipment ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:gottlieb-system-3-image.png|200px]]
|Gottlieb System 3 Driver Board
|[[Media:gottlieb-system-3.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-sw.png|200px]]
|WPC Switch Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-sw.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-lamp.png|200px]]
|WPC Lamp Matrix design
|[[Media:wpc-lamp.pdf]]
|-
|[[Image:wpc-solenoid.png|200px]]
|WPC Solenoid design
|[[Media:wpc-solenoid.pdf]]
|}

== 2D CAD Drawings ==

For use in AutoCAD or DraftSight when doing playfield layout.

=== Playfields ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Williams_playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield
|[[Media:Williams_playfield.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:Williams_Playfield.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Early SS playfield for Sketchup
|[[Media:Williams_Blank_Playfield.skp]]
|-
|[[Image:bally-ss.jpg|200px]]
|Bally SS Blank Playfield
|[[Media:bally-blank.dwg]]
|}

=== Ball Guides ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-inlane-guide.png|200px]]
|Ball Inlane Guide
|[[Media:Ball Inlane Guide (left) - 550-5037-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-lane-guide-top.png|200px]]
|Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided (03-7034) and Star Posts (03-8319) w/5-16 in rubber
|[[Media:Ball Lane Guide Top Double Sided - 03-7034 - and Star Posts - 03-8319 w 5-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-1-7-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 1 7/8" (530-5005-00) with 7/16" OD Mini Post Rubber (23-6694-1)
|[[Media:Metal Post 1 7-8 in tall 530-5005-00 w 7-16 in OD Mini Post Rubber 23-6694-1.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:metal-post-2-1-8.png|200px]]
|Metal Post 2 1/8" (530-5332-01) with Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1/16"
|[[Media:Metal Post 2 1-8 in tall 530-5332-01 w Bumper Post Sleeve 1 1-16 in.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:plastic-post.png|200px]]
|Narrow Plastic Post (03-8365) with 3/16" rubber
|[[Media:Narrow Plastic Post 03-8365 w 3-16 in rubber.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spade-bolt.png|200px]]
|Spade Bolt (Offset)
|[[Media:Spade Bolt (Offset).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:star-post.png|200px]]
|Star Post (03-8319)
|[[Media:Star Post - 03-8319.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:shooter-lane.jpg|200px]]
|Shooter Lane Insert
|[[Media:shooter-lane.dwg]]
|}

=== Coil Assemblies ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:ball-launcher.png|200px]]
|Ball Launcher (500-5477-01)
|[[Media:Ball Launcher 500-5477-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:ball-trough.png|200px]]
|Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball (500-6119-14) and Enter Exit Scoop (535-7329-01)
|[[Media:Ball Trough Assembly 4 Ball 500-6119-14 Enter Exit Scoop 535-7329-01.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-left.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/left mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Left).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:flipper-right.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly (A-15205) w/right mounted flipper
|[[Media:Flipper Assy - Williams A-15205 (Right).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-1.png|200px]]
|Magnet Bracket (A-15257) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Magnet Bracket A-15257 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:magnet-2.png|200px]]
|Threaded Core Weld Assembly (515-6141-01) and Magnet Coil (20-9247)
|[[Media:Threaded Core Weld Assembly 515-6141-01 and Magnet Coil 20-9247.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper.png|200px]]
|Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally
|[[Media:Pop Bumper Assembly Williams Bally.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:slingshot-assembly.png|200px]]
|Slingshot Assembly (500-5849-00)
|[[Media:Slingshot Assembly - 500-5849-00.dwg]]
|}

=== Inserts ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Arrow
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Arrow.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Rectangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Rectangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-1-2-ro.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 1/2" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_1-2_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-r.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Round
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Round.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-3-16-t.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 3/16" Triangle
|[[Media:Insert_1_3-16_in_Triangle.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:insert-1-5-8.png|200px]]
|Insert 1 5/8" Oval
|[[Media:Insert_1_5-8_in_Oval.dwg]]
|-
|}

=== Lights ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:socket-l.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Long (077-5005-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Long 077-5005-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-1.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5002-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5002-00.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:socket-s-2.png|200px]]
|89 Socket Under Playfield Short (077-5101-00)
|[[Media:Socket Under Playfield Short 077-5101-00.dwg]]
|}
=== Switches ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Switch and Bracket (A-12688)
|[[Media:Rollover Switch and Bracket A-12688.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:spinner-assembly.png|200px]]
|Spinner Assembly (A-21801-2)
|[[Media:Spinner Assembly A-21801-2.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4)
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4.dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-2.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 2
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 2).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:standup-target-3.png|200px]]
|Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1/16" (B-12001-4) Bank of 3
|[[Media:Stand Up Target Rectangle 1 1-16 in - B-12001-4 (Bank of 3).dwg]]
|-
|[[Image:5-target-bank.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Bank of 5
|[[Media:Drop Target Bank of 5.dwg]]
|}

== 3D templates ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template
|[[File:pop-bumper-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:pop-bumper-template-center.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Pop Bumper Template Center Holes
|[[File:pop-bumper-template-center.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template
|[[File:slingshot-template.stl]]
|-
|[[Image:sling-template-center.png|200px]]
|Williams Slingshot Template Center Holes
|[[File:sling-template-center.stl]]
|}

== Off the shelf parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.png|200px]]
|555 Lamp Socket 077-5030-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket 077-5030-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Staple Down F1P-E-12-07-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-07-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield F1P-E-12-06-00
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket F1P-E-12-06-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Short (Bally E-120-81)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-81.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.PNG|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield Flush (Bally E-120-99)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-99.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Bally E-120-162)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally E-120-162.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.png|200px]]
|44 Socket Under Playfield (Possibly Bally E-120-84)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket Bally- Possibly E-120-84.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lamp Socket A-8798.png|200px]]
|89 Lamp Socket A-8798
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lamp Socket A-8798.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Led bulb.jpg|200px]]
|LED bulb
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Led bulb.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:WPC Trough.png|200px]]
|WPC Trough Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Trough.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:SHooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.png|200px]]
|Shooter lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Shooter Lane Kicker Assembly A-21022-1.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Pop Bumper ASSY B-9414.png|200px]]
|WPC Pop Bumper Assembly
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:WPC Pop Bumper Assy B-9414.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 Bank Drop Target ASSY D-7931-3S.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:3 Bank Drop Target Sys11.png|200px]]
|3 bank Drop Target SYS11
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:3 bank Sys11 Drop Target Bank.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.png|200px]]
|5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:5 Bank JD Drop Target Bank A-16947.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 03-8033.png|200px]]
|Drop Target Wedge Top
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 03-8033.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.png|200px]]
|Kicker Arm Slingshot Assembly B-12665
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kicker Arm Sllingshot Assembly B-12665.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Kickout Hole SYS7.png|200px]]
|Kickout Hole Sys 7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Kickout Hole SYS7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Switch Rollover - Sys7.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Switch Sys7
Solidworks 2015
|[[Media:Switch Rollover - Sys7.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover Lane Switch.png|200px]]
|Rollover Lane Microswitch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover Lane Switch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 002 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 002
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 002 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 003 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 003
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 003 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 004 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 004
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 004 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Target 005 Assy.png|200px]]
|Target 005
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Target 005 Assy.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post PL-00172-OT.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1" - PL-00172-OT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post PL-00172-OT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-1/16"" - 03-8319-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-1'16 -03-8319-13.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.png|200px]]
|Star Post 1-3/16"" - 03-8370-10
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Star Post 1-3'16 -03-8370-10.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/2" 03-8130-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post 1-1^2 -03-8130-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Double Star Post .png|200px]]
|Double Star Post - 1-1/16" 03-8247-13
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Double Star Post.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20 .png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1" C-11561-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1 inch C-11561-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.png|200px]]
|Post Faceted 1-3/16" C-11562-20
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post Faceted 1-3`16 C-11562-20.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4 .png|200px]]
|Post 1" Concentric Fin C-951-4
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1 inch Concentric Fin C-951-4.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7 .png|200px]]
|Post 1-1/8" Concentric Fin C-952-7
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post 1-1`8 Concentric Fin C-952-7.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02 .png|200px]]
|Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post - Plastic 550-5052-02.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056 .png|200px]]
|Bumper Post 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at Top 02-4056
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Bumper Post 8-32 Thread bottom 6-32 at Top 024056.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 6-32 Thread 02-4195.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 8-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 8-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.png|200px]]
|Mini Post 10-32 Thread
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Mini Post 10-32 Thread.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.png|200px]]
|Post-Dual Ring 8-32 Thread at Bottom, 6-32 at top 02-4423
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Post -Dual Ring 8-32 Thread 6-32 at top 02-4423.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0001.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-5/8"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0001.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Threaded Post Screw 0002.png|200px]]
|Threaded Post Screw 6-32 Top and Bottom, 1-1/2"
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Threaded Post Screw 0002.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rubber Post Cap.png|200px]]
|Rubber Post Cap
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rubber Post Cap.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.png|200px]]
|1" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1 inch RND PL-1ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/16" Round Insert - Smooth
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch RND PL-1316RBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.png|200px]]
|5/8" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 5`8 inch RND PL-58ROS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.png|200px]]
|3/4" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch RND PL-34RAS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Round Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-1`2 inch RND PL-112ROT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.png|200px]]
|3/4" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 inch Square PL-34SSB.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.png|200px]]
|1" Square Insert - Starburst Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1inch Square PL-1SSG.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-1/2" Rectangular Insert - "Grid" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 3`4 x 1-1`2 inch RECT PL-112REC-YT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.png|200px]]
|3/4 x 1-5/8" Oval Insert
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-5`8 inch OVAL PI-11234--OGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.png|200px]]
|1-3/6"" Triangular Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`16 inch Tri PI-1316TOS.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.png|200px]]
|1-3/4 x 3/4"" Diamond Insert - "Starburst" Pattern
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert - 1-3`4 inch Diamond PL-134DBT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.png|200px]]
|1-1/2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-112TGT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 1-1'2 inch Triangle PI-112TGT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.png|200px]]
|2" Triangle Insert - "Starburst" Pattern PI-T2RT
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2 inch Arrow PI-T2RT.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.png|200px]]
|2-1/2" Arrow Insert - 03-8359-9
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Insert 2-1'2 inch Arrow 03-8359-9.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lightning_insert.jpg|200px]]
|Lightning Insert - PI-3-LO
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Lightning_insert.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Rollover C-901.png|200px]]
|Rollover Insert C-901
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Rollover C-9901.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide 03-8318-25
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide 03-8318-25.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Lane Guide.PNG|200px]]
|Lane Guide
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Lane Guide.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Ball Gate Assembly - RT A-8096-R.ZIP]]
|-
|[[Image:Stern-spinner-511-5113-00.jpg|200px]]
|Stern Spinner 511-5113-00
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Stern-511-5113-00.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Gate Assy 0001.PNG|200px]]
|Ball Gate Assembly -
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Gate Assy 0001.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Assembly WPC.png|200px]]
|Flipper Assembly WPC (coil is incorrect)
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Assembly WPC.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 2inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 2 Inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 2inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:Flipper Bat 3inch.PNG|200px]]
|Flipper Bat 3 inch
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Flipper Bat 3inch.zip]]
|-
|[[Image:03-7568 flipper bushing.jpg|200px]]
|Bally / Williams Bushing
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:03-7568 flipper bushing SW.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Opto Base MTG.png|200px]]
|Opto Base Mounting
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Opto Base MTG.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:PF Test1.PNG|200px]]
|Test PF shooter lane cut
Solidworks 2013
|[[Media:Test PF 1.sldprt]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_williams_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Williams Inlane
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane_williams_plastic.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Inlane_de-sega-stern_plastic.jpg|200px]]
|Data East / SEGA / Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Inlane DE-sega-stern.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Apron_stern.jpg|200px]]
| Stern
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Apron stern.SLDPRT]]
|}

== Non Standard Parts ==

{|class="wikitable"
!Image
!Description
!File
|-
|[[Image:Wireform bracket.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable wireform bracket to be used with any 1/8" round material (ABS, steel, polyethylene tubing, etc)
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Wireform bracket.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Loop_da_loop_ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable loop da loop ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Loop_da_loop_ramp.SLDPRT]]
|-
|[[Image:Vertical loop ramp.jpg|200px]]
| 3d printable vertical loopback ramp
Solidworks 2014
|[[Media:Vertical loop ramp.SLDPRT]]
|}

Main Page

2018-09-21T16:40:23Z

Jwilson:

<center>
[[Image:header.png]]

<h2>'''Build your own Pinball Machine'''</h2>

Thanks to advances in home-based computer-aided design, CNC routers, laser cutters and 3D printers, it's easier than ever for the home hobbyist to work in a garage workshop, from just an idea to a fully finished, professional quality pinball machine.

This wiki is not meant to be a static list of resources - anyone is welcome to edit or add information or articles on any subject relating to home brew pinball. You are only asked to sign up for an account to edit.

Click on any of the topics below to go to that specific section.

----
<h2>'''[[Basics|The Basics]]'''</h2>
Click above to get a rundown of the basic components that go into a pinball machine and how they are connected.
----
<h2>'''[[OPP|Open Pinball Project]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[OPP#Hardware|Hardware]] | [[OPP#Getting_Blank_Boards|Getting Boards]] | [[OPP#Assembly|Assembly]] | [[OPP#Firmware|Programming]]</h3>
<h3>[[OPP#Wiring_Examples|Wiring]] | [[OPP#Troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[P3-ROC|P3-ROC Custom Pinball Controller]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[P-ROC_Main_Page|P-ROC (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller)]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[P-ROC_functionality|How It Works]] | [[Driver_Board_functionality|How the Driver Boards Work]]</h3>
<h3> [[P-ROC_hardware_installation| Installation]] | [[Controlling_Coils|Controlling Coils]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Fast|FAST Controller]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Design]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Design#Pinball_Basics|Basics]] | [[Design#Design_Software|Software]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Construction]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Construction#Tools|Tools]] | [[Construction#Materials|Materials]] | [[Construction#Whitewood|Whitewood]] | [[Construction#Cabinet|Cabinet]] | [[Construction#Electronics|Electronics]]</h3>
<h3>[[Construction#Wiring|Wiring]] | [[Construction#Displays|Displays]] | [[Construction#Lighting|Lighting]] | [[Construction#Custom_Parts|Custom Parts]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Artwork]]'''</h2>
<h3>[[Artwork#Style|Style]] | [[Artwork#Design|Design]] | [[Artwork#Printing|Printing]]</h3>
----
<h2>'''[[Programming]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Custom Games]]'''</h2>
----
<h2>'''[[Vendor List]]''' | '''[[Files Section]]'''</h2>

Like the Logo? [http://skreened.com/pinballmakers/ Buy a T-Shirt!]
</center>
__NOTOC__

P3-ROC

2018-07-30T15:45:03Z

Jwilson: /* Serial Wiring */

The '''P3-ROC''' is the next evolution of the [https://www.multimorphic.com/ Multimorphic] line of pinball controllers. Designed for use in their '''P3''' modular system, it is well suited to custom game construction thanks to that very same modularity.

== Hardware ==

The '''P3-ROC''' hardware consists of five main boards:

* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/ P3-ROC]''' is the main controller device which plugs into a PC via USB and allows the PC to communicate with the various input/output boards.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-16/ PD-16]''' allows control of up to 16 solenoids or other high voltage devices.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/sw-16/ SW-16]''' supports up to 16 switch inputs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-led/ PD-LED]''' allows control of up to 84 single LEDs or up to 2048 serial LEDs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry]''' provides a simple and safe way to connect power between multiple power supplies and game devices.

Additionally, they provide a number of support devices such as long range optos, RGB LED boards and audio amps.

[[Image:P3-roc-boards.jpg|Conversion of an EM game using P3-ROC]]

''From top left moving clockwise: SW-16, 8x8 (deprecated matrix controller for lamps), PD-16, Power Entry, P3-ROC and RPi3 as controller PC''

=== P3-ROC Controller Board ===
At the heart of the system is the '''P3-ROC''' ''Controller Board''. All other boards communicate through it and it handles all the signalling needed, relieving the PC to handle game rules instead of switch matrix scanning, pulse-width modulation of coils, and other low-level device support.

[[Image:P3-ROC.png|P3-ROC board]]

Although it appears complicated due to the number of connectors on the board, the majority of the .100" headers are to support the P3 long-range optos and are not relevant to most custom game makers.

The theory of operation, dip switches and what the LEDs mean is explained in the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation] but the key connections are:

* '''J1''': Power input (5V) using a standard PC power supply connector
* '''J2''': Power input (5V) using standard pinball-style .156" Molex connector
* '''J11''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J12''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J13''': USB connector to computer
* '''J14''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J15''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J17''': I2C Serial connector (.100" Molex)

==== Serial Interface ====
The '''P3-ROC''' uses the '''RS-485''' serial protocol to communicate to the attached boards. Designed for high EM environments, it has excellent error correction and robust signalling and is well suited for the ''noisy'' world under a pinball playfield.

Note that the ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' serial connectors have different pinouts, to help avoid mixing up connectors when assembling wiring.

There are a total of '''four''' serial connectors - two for switches (''SW-16'') and two for drivers (''PD-16'' and ''PD-LED''). This allows for chains to easily extend to the backbox and playfield, or playfield and cabinet.

=== PD-16 Driver Board ===
For controlling solenoids and other high current devices there is the '''PD-16''' Driver board.

[[Image:PD-16.png|PD-16 Driver Board]]

It uses '''16 MOSFETs''' in a ''ground-sink'' configuration - high power devices are connected directly to the positive voltage, then connected to the ''PD-16'' which activates the device by connecting it to ground. It is divided into two banks of 8, with ''in-rush'' diodes on all inputs to protect the board, so diodes are not required on solenoids.

From the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connections (all .156" Molex unless specified) are:

* '''J1''': 5V input
* '''J3''': Bank A High Power Out
* '''J4''': Bank B High Power Out
* '''J5''': Bank A High Power In
* '''J6''': Bank B High Power In
* '''J7''': Bank A Input (ground)
* '''J9''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J10''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J11''': Bank B Input (ground)

==== Power Connections ====
High power ('''24V - 70V''') is connected directly to the ''PD-16'', which is fused, then output from the board to the high power devices, or to additional ''PD-16s''. In addition, '''5V''' is required to run the onboard logic and serial communications.

=== SW-16 Switch Board ===

For reading individual switches, the '''SW-16''' switch board is used.

[[Image:SW-16.png|SW-16 Switch Board]]

The ''SW-16'' uses '''12V''' for switches and works opposite of the driver boards - ground is connected to the switches and when closed, completes the circuit on the board. It is divided into two banks of 8. The 12V switch power is stepped down to 5V to handle the on-board logic and serial.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are:

* '''J1''': 12V Power (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Bank A Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J4''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J6''': Bank B Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)

=== PD-LED Light Board ===
Modern pinball machines use LEDs (light emitting diodes) for lighting, and the '''PD-LED''' is designed to drive them.

[[Image:PD-LED.png|PD-LED Light Board]]

The ''PD-LED'' can drive '''84''' individual LEDs using the seven 20-pin connectors on the board. Depending on the LED, power is supplied to the LEDs (resistors may be required depending on the forward voltage of the LED in question) and the cathode leg of the LED is connected to the ''PD-LED'' which grounds it to light. Some LEDs may be common anode so the wiring will be reversed.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/PD-LED-2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are as follows:

* '''J1''': 5V Logic (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J5''': LED 0-11
* '''J6''': LED 24-35
* '''J7''': LED 48-59
* '''J8''': LED 72-83 and Serial LED Control
* '''J9''': LED 12-23
* '''J10''': LED 36-47
* '''J11''': LED 60-71

==== Serial LED Control ====
The ''PD-LED'' can also serially control LED strings via '''J8'''. The board will need to be configured for serial use, and the pins used for serial communications with the LED strings cannot be used for single LEDs, thus reducing the total LED capacity.

===== WS281x =====
Three strings of single wire ''' [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1138 WS281x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 17-19'''. These type of serial LEDs do not have a clock signal so light shows may get out of sync with other events, but they are extremely inexpensive.

* '''J8 Pin 17''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 18''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 19''': Serial Data 0

===== LPD880x =====
Three strings of '''[https://www.adafruit.com/product/306 LPD880x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 7-9''' and '''12-14'''. These style include a clock signal for proper syncing.

* '''J8 Pin 7''': Serial Clock 2
* '''J8 Pin 8''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 9''': Serial Clock 1
* '''J8 Pin 12''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 13''': Serial Clock 0
* '''J8 Pin 14''': Serial Data 0

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built - more switches means more ''SW-16s'', more solenoids means more ''PD-16s'' and so on.

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire a game, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

Three main voltages are required: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''12V''' for switches and '''24V to 70V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for switches. For solenoids, you can use a separate switcher if you also use the '''Power Entry''' board as it has capacitors to handle sudden current demands - otherwise a switching power supply has built-in protection that will switch itself off due to the sudden overload.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Each board is chained to the '''P3-ROC''' via multiple 2-wire cables, and each board has a unique ID set via the on-board DIP switches. Multiple boards are attached to the previous board in a daisy-chain until the chain ends at the '''P3-ROC''' as in the below diagram. The diagram is only an example - any ''driver'' board can be connected to ''driver serial'', so you can put either ''PD-16s'' or ''PD-LEDs'' on the ''driver serial'' in any order.

[[Image:serial-diagram.png|Serial Connections]]

==== Serial Cables ====
Although almost any wire over 28AWG will do to make the serial cables, It is recommended to twist the wires in a pair to help cut down on electrical interference. This can be done by hand, or by placing the ends of the wire in a drill and spinning it. Another popular option is to re-purpose inexpensive CAT5 ethernet wires as they come pre-twisted.

Wires are connected '''positive to positive''' and '''negative to negative'''. So, for the ''switch'' cable, '''Pin 2''' (Serial Switch Data +) goes to '''Pin 2''' on the '''SW-16''' and so on.

==== DIP Switches ====
[[Image:DIP.jpg|DIP Switch]]

Each board includes an 8-position DIP switch, which is used to set the ID of the board in question, terminate a chain of boards, and set some additional settings.

Each board needs a unique ID ''per serial chain'' - ie. you can have two ''Board 0''s as long as they are on different chains. '''DIP 1-6''' sets the ID in '''binary''' notation. So if you want to set the board ID to 5, you would set DIP 1 and 4 to ''On''. If the board is the last board in the chain, set 8 to ''On'' as well.

[[Image:DIP.png|400px|DIP Switch]]

=== Wiring Examples ===
There are a number of ways to connect the '''P3-ROC''' boards to your machine but the following are some basic configurations to illustrate serial, power and device connections.

'''Important Note:''' When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, solenoids and LEDs, it is '''critical''' to connect all grounds together at the power supplies (or use the '''Power Entry''' board) to avoid a potential floating ground issue that can easily destroy your boards.

==== Serial Wiring ====
Remember to use ''twisted wire'' to help mitigate electrical interference with the serial signal.

[[Image:twisted.png|Twisted Pair]]

For ''Switch'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Ground
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 3
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
|}

For ''Driver'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Serial Driver Data +
|-
| 2
| Serial Driver Data -
|-
| 3
| Ground
|-
|}

In this diagram, it shows the serial connections between the ''P3-ROC'', two ''SW-16''s, a ''PD-LED'' and a ''PD-16''. The ''SW-16s'' are connected to one of the two ''Serial Switch'' connectors while the ''PD-LED'' and ''PD-16'' are connected to one of the two ''Serial Driver'' connectors. Note how the pinouts on ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' are different.

It also shows how the DIP switches are set on each board to ID them, as well as to terminate the chain on the last board (DIP-8).

[[Image:serial-2.png|Serial Example]]

P3-ROC

2018-07-30T15:42:39Z

Jwilson: /* Serial Wiring */

The '''P3-ROC''' is the next evolution of the [https://www.multimorphic.com/ Multimorphic] line of pinball controllers. Designed for use in their '''P3''' modular system, it is well suited to custom game construction thanks to that very same modularity.

== Hardware ==

The '''P3-ROC''' hardware consists of five main boards:

* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/ P3-ROC]''' is the main controller device which plugs into a PC via USB and allows the PC to communicate with the various input/output boards.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-16/ PD-16]''' allows control of up to 16 solenoids or other high voltage devices.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/sw-16/ SW-16]''' supports up to 16 switch inputs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-led/ PD-LED]''' allows control of up to 84 single LEDs or up to 2048 serial LEDs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry]''' provides a simple and safe way to connect power between multiple power supplies and game devices.

Additionally, they provide a number of support devices such as long range optos, RGB LED boards and audio amps.

[[Image:P3-roc-boards.jpg|Conversion of an EM game using P3-ROC]]

''From top left moving clockwise: SW-16, 8x8 (deprecated matrix controller for lamps), PD-16, Power Entry, P3-ROC and RPi3 as controller PC''

=== P3-ROC Controller Board ===
At the heart of the system is the '''P3-ROC''' ''Controller Board''. All other boards communicate through it and it handles all the signalling needed, relieving the PC to handle game rules instead of switch matrix scanning, pulse-width modulation of coils, and other low-level device support.

[[Image:P3-ROC.png|P3-ROC board]]

Although it appears complicated due to the number of connectors on the board, the majority of the .100" headers are to support the P3 long-range optos and are not relevant to most custom game makers.

The theory of operation, dip switches and what the LEDs mean is explained in the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation] but the key connections are:

* '''J1''': Power input (5V) using a standard PC power supply connector
* '''J2''': Power input (5V) using standard pinball-style .156" Molex connector
* '''J11''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J12''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J13''': USB connector to computer
* '''J14''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J15''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J17''': I2C Serial connector (.100" Molex)

==== Serial Interface ====
The '''P3-ROC''' uses the '''RS-485''' serial protocol to communicate to the attached boards. Designed for high EM environments, it has excellent error correction and robust signalling and is well suited for the ''noisy'' world under a pinball playfield.

Note that the ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' serial connectors have different pinouts, to help avoid mixing up connectors when assembling wiring.

There are a total of '''four''' serial connectors - two for switches (''SW-16'') and two for drivers (''PD-16'' and ''PD-LED''). This allows for chains to easily extend to the backbox and playfield, or playfield and cabinet.

=== PD-16 Driver Board ===
For controlling solenoids and other high current devices there is the '''PD-16''' Driver board.

[[Image:PD-16.png|PD-16 Driver Board]]

It uses '''16 MOSFETs''' in a ''ground-sink'' configuration - high power devices are connected directly to the positive voltage, then connected to the ''PD-16'' which activates the device by connecting it to ground. It is divided into two banks of 8, with ''in-rush'' diodes on all inputs to protect the board, so diodes are not required on solenoids.

From the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connections (all .156" Molex unless specified) are:

* '''J1''': 5V input
* '''J3''': Bank A High Power Out
* '''J4''': Bank B High Power Out
* '''J5''': Bank A High Power In
* '''J6''': Bank B High Power In
* '''J7''': Bank A Input (ground)
* '''J9''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J10''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J11''': Bank B Input (ground)

==== Power Connections ====
High power ('''24V - 70V''') is connected directly to the ''PD-16'', which is fused, then output from the board to the high power devices, or to additional ''PD-16s''. In addition, '''5V''' is required to run the onboard logic and serial communications.

=== SW-16 Switch Board ===

For reading individual switches, the '''SW-16''' switch board is used.

[[Image:SW-16.png|SW-16 Switch Board]]

The ''SW-16'' uses '''12V''' for switches and works opposite of the driver boards - ground is connected to the switches and when closed, completes the circuit on the board. It is divided into two banks of 8. The 12V switch power is stepped down to 5V to handle the on-board logic and serial.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are:

* '''J1''': 12V Power (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Bank A Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J4''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J6''': Bank B Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)

=== PD-LED Light Board ===
Modern pinball machines use LEDs (light emitting diodes) for lighting, and the '''PD-LED''' is designed to drive them.

[[Image:PD-LED.png|PD-LED Light Board]]

The ''PD-LED'' can drive '''84''' individual LEDs using the seven 20-pin connectors on the board. Depending on the LED, power is supplied to the LEDs (resistors may be required depending on the forward voltage of the LED in question) and the cathode leg of the LED is connected to the ''PD-LED'' which grounds it to light. Some LEDs may be common anode so the wiring will be reversed.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/PD-LED-2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are as follows:

* '''J1''': 5V Logic (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J5''': LED 0-11
* '''J6''': LED 24-35
* '''J7''': LED 48-59
* '''J8''': LED 72-83 and Serial LED Control
* '''J9''': LED 12-23
* '''J10''': LED 36-47
* '''J11''': LED 60-71

==== Serial LED Control ====
The ''PD-LED'' can also serially control LED strings via '''J8'''. The board will need to be configured for serial use, and the pins used for serial communications with the LED strings cannot be used for single LEDs, thus reducing the total LED capacity.

===== WS281x =====
Three strings of single wire ''' [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1138 WS281x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 17-19'''. These type of serial LEDs do not have a clock signal so light shows may get out of sync with other events, but they are extremely inexpensive.

* '''J8 Pin 17''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 18''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 19''': Serial Data 0

===== LPD880x =====
Three strings of '''[https://www.adafruit.com/product/306 LPD880x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 7-9''' and '''12-14'''. These style include a clock signal for proper syncing.

* '''J8 Pin 7''': Serial Clock 2
* '''J8 Pin 8''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 9''': Serial Clock 1
* '''J8 Pin 12''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 13''': Serial Clock 0
* '''J8 Pin 14''': Serial Data 0

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built - more switches means more ''SW-16s'', more solenoids means more ''PD-16s'' and so on.

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire a game, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

Three main voltages are required: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''12V''' for switches and '''24V to 70V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for switches. For solenoids, you can use a separate switcher if you also use the '''Power Entry''' board as it has capacitors to handle sudden current demands - otherwise a switching power supply has built-in protection that will switch itself off due to the sudden overload.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Each board is chained to the '''P3-ROC''' via multiple 2-wire cables, and each board has a unique ID set via the on-board DIP switches. Multiple boards are attached to the previous board in a daisy-chain until the chain ends at the '''P3-ROC''' as in the below diagram. The diagram is only an example - any ''driver'' board can be connected to ''driver serial'', so you can put either ''PD-16s'' or ''PD-LEDs'' on the ''driver serial'' in any order.

[[Image:serial-diagram.png|Serial Connections]]

==== Serial Cables ====
Although almost any wire over 28AWG will do to make the serial cables, It is recommended to twist the wires in a pair to help cut down on electrical interference. This can be done by hand, or by placing the ends of the wire in a drill and spinning it. Another popular option is to re-purpose inexpensive CAT5 ethernet wires as they come pre-twisted.

Wires are connected '''positive to positive''' and '''negative to negative'''. So, for the ''switch'' cable, '''Pin 2''' (Serial Switch Data +) goes to '''Pin 2''' on the '''SW-16''' and so on.

==== DIP Switches ====
[[Image:DIP.jpg|DIP Switch]]

Each board includes an 8-position DIP switch, which is used to set the ID of the board in question, terminate a chain of boards, and set some additional settings.

Each board needs a unique ID ''per serial chain'' - ie. you can have two ''Board 0''s as long as they are on different chains. '''DIP 1-6''' sets the ID in '''binary''' notation. So if you want to set the board ID to 5, you would set DIP 1 and 4 to ''On''. If the board is the last board in the chain, set 8 to ''On'' as well.

[[Image:DIP.png|400px|DIP Switch]]

=== Wiring Examples ===
There are a number of ways to connect the '''P3-ROC''' boards to your machine but the following are some basic configurations to illustrate serial, power and device connections.

'''Important Note:''' When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, solenoids and LEDs, it is '''critical''' to connect all grounds together at the power supplies (or use the '''Power Entry''' board) to avoid a potential floating ground issue that can easily destroy your boards.

==== Serial Wiring ====
Remember to use ''twisted wire'' to help mitigate electrical interference with the serial signal.

[[Image:twisted.png|Twisted Pair]]

For ''Switch'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Ground
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 3
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
|}

For ''Driver'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
| 3
| Ground
|-
|}

In this diagram, it shows the serial connections between the ''P3-ROC'', two ''SW-16''s, a ''PD-LED'' and a ''PD-16''. The ''SW-16s'' are connected to one of the two ''Serial Switch'' connectors while the ''PD-LED'' and ''PD-16'' are connected to one of the two ''Serial Driver'' connectors. Note how the pinouts on ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' are different.

It also shows how the DIP switches are set on each board to ID them, as well as to terminate the chain on the last board (DIP-8).

[[Image:serial-2.png|Serial Example]]

File:Serial-2.png

2018-07-30T15:41:44Z

Jwilson:

P3-ROC

2018-07-29T01:58:20Z

Jwilson: /* Serial Wiring */

The '''P3-ROC''' is the next evolution of the [https://www.multimorphic.com/ Multimorphic] line of pinball controllers. Designed for use in their '''P3''' modular system, it is well suited to custom game construction thanks to that very same modularity.

== Hardware ==

The '''P3-ROC''' hardware consists of five main boards:

* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/ P3-ROC]''' is the main controller device which plugs into a PC via USB and allows the PC to communicate with the various input/output boards.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-16/ PD-16]''' allows control of up to 16 solenoids or other high voltage devices.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/sw-16/ SW-16]''' supports up to 16 switch inputs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-led/ PD-LED]''' allows control of up to 84 single LEDs or up to 2048 serial LEDs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry]''' provides a simple and safe way to connect power between multiple power supplies and game devices.

Additionally, they provide a number of support devices such as long range optos, RGB LED boards and audio amps.

[[Image:P3-roc-boards.jpg|Conversion of an EM game using P3-ROC]]

''From top left moving clockwise: SW-16, 8x8 (deprecated matrix controller for lamps), PD-16, Power Entry, P3-ROC and RPi3 as controller PC''

=== P3-ROC Controller Board ===
At the heart of the system is the '''P3-ROC''' ''Controller Board''. All other boards communicate through it and it handles all the signalling needed, relieving the PC to handle game rules instead of switch matrix scanning, pulse-width modulation of coils, and other low-level device support.

[[Image:P3-ROC.png|P3-ROC board]]

Although it appears complicated due to the number of connectors on the board, the majority of the .100" headers are to support the P3 long-range optos and are not relevant to most custom game makers.

The theory of operation, dip switches and what the LEDs mean is explained in the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation] but the key connections are:

* '''J1''': Power input (5V) using a standard PC power supply connector
* '''J2''': Power input (5V) using standard pinball-style .156" Molex connector
* '''J11''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J12''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J13''': USB connector to computer
* '''J14''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J15''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J17''': I2C Serial connector (.100" Molex)

==== Serial Interface ====
The '''P3-ROC''' uses the '''RS-485''' serial protocol to communicate to the attached boards. Designed for high EM environments, it has excellent error correction and robust signalling and is well suited for the ''noisy'' world under a pinball playfield.

Note that the ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' serial connectors have different pinouts, to help avoid mixing up connectors when assembling wiring.

There are a total of '''four''' serial connectors - two for switches (''SW-16'') and two for drivers (''PD-16'' and ''PD-LED''). This allows for chains to easily extend to the backbox and playfield, or playfield and cabinet.

=== PD-16 Driver Board ===
For controlling solenoids and other high current devices there is the '''PD-16''' Driver board.

[[Image:PD-16.png|PD-16 Driver Board]]

It uses '''16 MOSFETs''' in a ''ground-sink'' configuration - high power devices are connected directly to the positive voltage, then connected to the ''PD-16'' which activates the device by connecting it to ground. It is divided into two banks of 8, with ''in-rush'' diodes on all inputs to protect the board, so diodes are not required on solenoids.

From the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connections (all .156" Molex unless specified) are:

* '''J1''': 5V input
* '''J3''': Bank A High Power Out
* '''J4''': Bank B High Power Out
* '''J5''': Bank A High Power In
* '''J6''': Bank B High Power In
* '''J7''': Bank A Input (ground)
* '''J9''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J10''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J11''': Bank B Input (ground)

==== Power Connections ====
High power ('''24V - 70V''') is connected directly to the ''PD-16'', which is fused, then output from the board to the high power devices, or to additional ''PD-16s''. In addition, '''5V''' is required to run the onboard logic and serial communications.

=== SW-16 Switch Board ===

For reading individual switches, the '''SW-16''' switch board is used.

[[Image:SW-16.png|SW-16 Switch Board]]

The ''SW-16'' uses '''12V''' for switches and works opposite of the driver boards - ground is connected to the switches and when closed, completes the circuit on the board. It is divided into two banks of 8. The 12V switch power is stepped down to 5V to handle the on-board logic and serial.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are:

* '''J1''': 12V Power (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Bank A Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J4''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J6''': Bank B Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)

=== PD-LED Light Board ===
Modern pinball machines use LEDs (light emitting diodes) for lighting, and the '''PD-LED''' is designed to drive them.

[[Image:PD-LED.png|PD-LED Light Board]]

The ''PD-LED'' can drive '''84''' individual LEDs using the seven 20-pin connectors on the board. Depending on the LED, power is supplied to the LEDs (resistors may be required depending on the forward voltage of the LED in question) and the cathode leg of the LED is connected to the ''PD-LED'' which grounds it to light. Some LEDs may be common anode so the wiring will be reversed.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/PD-LED-2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are as follows:

* '''J1''': 5V Logic (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J5''': LED 0-11
* '''J6''': LED 24-35
* '''J7''': LED 48-59
* '''J8''': LED 72-83 and Serial LED Control
* '''J9''': LED 12-23
* '''J10''': LED 36-47
* '''J11''': LED 60-71

==== Serial LED Control ====
The ''PD-LED'' can also serially control LED strings via '''J8'''. The board will need to be configured for serial use, and the pins used for serial communications with the LED strings cannot be used for single LEDs, thus reducing the total LED capacity.

===== WS281x =====
Three strings of single wire ''' [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1138 WS281x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 17-19'''. These type of serial LEDs do not have a clock signal so light shows may get out of sync with other events, but they are extremely inexpensive.

* '''J8 Pin 17''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 18''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 19''': Serial Data 0

===== LPD880x =====
Three strings of '''[https://www.adafruit.com/product/306 LPD880x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 7-9''' and '''12-14'''. These style include a clock signal for proper syncing.

* '''J8 Pin 7''': Serial Clock 2
* '''J8 Pin 8''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 9''': Serial Clock 1
* '''J8 Pin 12''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 13''': Serial Clock 0
* '''J8 Pin 14''': Serial Data 0

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built - more switches means more ''SW-16s'', more solenoids means more ''PD-16s'' and so on.

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire a game, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

Three main voltages are required: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''12V''' for switches and '''24V to 70V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for switches. For solenoids, you can use a separate switcher if you also use the '''Power Entry''' board as it has capacitors to handle sudden current demands - otherwise a switching power supply has built-in protection that will switch itself off due to the sudden overload.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Each board is chained to the '''P3-ROC''' via multiple 2-wire cables, and each board has a unique ID set via the on-board DIP switches. Multiple boards are attached to the previous board in a daisy-chain until the chain ends at the '''P3-ROC''' as in the below diagram. The diagram is only an example - any ''driver'' board can be connected to ''driver serial'', so you can put either ''PD-16s'' or ''PD-LEDs'' on the ''driver serial'' in any order.

[[Image:serial-diagram.png|Serial Connections]]

==== Serial Cables ====
Although almost any wire over 28AWG will do to make the serial cables, It is recommended to twist the wires in a pair to help cut down on electrical interference. This can be done by hand, or by placing the ends of the wire in a drill and spinning it. Another popular option is to re-purpose inexpensive CAT5 ethernet wires as they come pre-twisted.

Wires are connected '''positive to positive''' and '''negative to negative'''. So, for the ''switch'' cable, '''Pin 2''' (Serial Switch Data +) goes to '''Pin 2''' on the '''SW-16''' and so on.

==== DIP Switches ====
[[Image:DIP.jpg|DIP Switch]]

Each board includes an 8-position DIP switch, which is used to set the ID of the board in question, terminate a chain of boards, and set some additional settings.

Each board needs a unique ID ''per serial chain'' - ie. you can have two ''Board 0''s as long as they are on different chains. '''DIP 1-6''' sets the ID in '''binary''' notation. So if you want to set the board ID to 5, you would set DIP 1 and 4 to ''On''. If the board is the last board in the chain, set 8 to ''On'' as well.

[[Image:DIP.png|400px|DIP Switch]]

=== Wiring Examples ===
There are a number of ways to connect the '''P3-ROC''' boards to your machine but the following are some basic configurations to illustrate serial, power and device connections.

'''Important Note:''' When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, solenoids and LEDs, it is '''critical''' to connect all grounds together at the power supplies (or use the '''Power Entry''' board) to avoid a potential floating ground issue that can easily destroy your boards.

==== Serial Wiring ====
Remember to use ''twisted wire'' to help mitigate electrical interference with the serial signal.

[[Image:twisted.png|Twisted Pair]]

For ''Switch'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Ground
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 3
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
|}

For ''Driver'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable" style="clear:right"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
| 3
| Ground
|-
|}

[[Image:serial.png|Serial Example]]

P3-ROC

2018-07-29T01:55:35Z

Jwilson: /* Serial Wiring */

The '''P3-ROC''' is the next evolution of the [https://www.multimorphic.com/ Multimorphic] line of pinball controllers. Designed for use in their '''P3''' modular system, it is well suited to custom game construction thanks to that very same modularity.

== Hardware ==

The '''P3-ROC''' hardware consists of five main boards:

* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/ P3-ROC]''' is the main controller device which plugs into a PC via USB and allows the PC to communicate with the various input/output boards.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-16/ PD-16]''' allows control of up to 16 solenoids or other high voltage devices.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/sw-16/ SW-16]''' supports up to 16 switch inputs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-led/ PD-LED]''' allows control of up to 84 single LEDs or up to 2048 serial LEDs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry]''' provides a simple and safe way to connect power between multiple power supplies and game devices.

Additionally, they provide a number of support devices such as long range optos, RGB LED boards and audio amps.

[[Image:P3-roc-boards.jpg|Conversion of an EM game using P3-ROC]]

''From top left moving clockwise: SW-16, 8x8 (deprecated matrix controller for lamps), PD-16, Power Entry, P3-ROC and RPi3 as controller PC''

=== P3-ROC Controller Board ===
At the heart of the system is the '''P3-ROC''' ''Controller Board''. All other boards communicate through it and it handles all the signalling needed, relieving the PC to handle game rules instead of switch matrix scanning, pulse-width modulation of coils, and other low-level device support.

[[Image:P3-ROC.png|P3-ROC board]]

Although it appears complicated due to the number of connectors on the board, the majority of the .100" headers are to support the P3 long-range optos and are not relevant to most custom game makers.

The theory of operation, dip switches and what the LEDs mean is explained in the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation] but the key connections are:

* '''J1''': Power input (5V) using a standard PC power supply connector
* '''J2''': Power input (5V) using standard pinball-style .156" Molex connector
* '''J11''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J12''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J13''': USB connector to computer
* '''J14''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J15''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J17''': I2C Serial connector (.100" Molex)

==== Serial Interface ====
The '''P3-ROC''' uses the '''RS-485''' serial protocol to communicate to the attached boards. Designed for high EM environments, it has excellent error correction and robust signalling and is well suited for the ''noisy'' world under a pinball playfield.

Note that the ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' serial connectors have different pinouts, to help avoid mixing up connectors when assembling wiring.

There are a total of '''four''' serial connectors - two for switches (''SW-16'') and two for drivers (''PD-16'' and ''PD-LED''). This allows for chains to easily extend to the backbox and playfield, or playfield and cabinet.

=== PD-16 Driver Board ===
For controlling solenoids and other high current devices there is the '''PD-16''' Driver board.

[[Image:PD-16.png|PD-16 Driver Board]]

It uses '''16 MOSFETs''' in a ''ground-sink'' configuration - high power devices are connected directly to the positive voltage, then connected to the ''PD-16'' which activates the device by connecting it to ground. It is divided into two banks of 8, with ''in-rush'' diodes on all inputs to protect the board, so diodes are not required on solenoids.

From the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connections (all .156" Molex unless specified) are:

* '''J1''': 5V input
* '''J3''': Bank A High Power Out
* '''J4''': Bank B High Power Out
* '''J5''': Bank A High Power In
* '''J6''': Bank B High Power In
* '''J7''': Bank A Input (ground)
* '''J9''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J10''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J11''': Bank B Input (ground)

==== Power Connections ====
High power ('''24V - 70V''') is connected directly to the ''PD-16'', which is fused, then output from the board to the high power devices, or to additional ''PD-16s''. In addition, '''5V''' is required to run the onboard logic and serial communications.

=== SW-16 Switch Board ===

For reading individual switches, the '''SW-16''' switch board is used.

[[Image:SW-16.png|SW-16 Switch Board]]

The ''SW-16'' uses '''12V''' for switches and works opposite of the driver boards - ground is connected to the switches and when closed, completes the circuit on the board. It is divided into two banks of 8. The 12V switch power is stepped down to 5V to handle the on-board logic and serial.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are:

* '''J1''': 12V Power (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Bank A Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J4''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J6''': Bank B Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)

=== PD-LED Light Board ===
Modern pinball machines use LEDs (light emitting diodes) for lighting, and the '''PD-LED''' is designed to drive them.

[[Image:PD-LED.png|PD-LED Light Board]]

The ''PD-LED'' can drive '''84''' individual LEDs using the seven 20-pin connectors on the board. Depending on the LED, power is supplied to the LEDs (resistors may be required depending on the forward voltage of the LED in question) and the cathode leg of the LED is connected to the ''PD-LED'' which grounds it to light. Some LEDs may be common anode so the wiring will be reversed.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/PD-LED-2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are as follows:

* '''J1''': 5V Logic (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J5''': LED 0-11
* '''J6''': LED 24-35
* '''J7''': LED 48-59
* '''J8''': LED 72-83 and Serial LED Control
* '''J9''': LED 12-23
* '''J10''': LED 36-47
* '''J11''': LED 60-71

==== Serial LED Control ====
The ''PD-LED'' can also serially control LED strings via '''J8'''. The board will need to be configured for serial use, and the pins used for serial communications with the LED strings cannot be used for single LEDs, thus reducing the total LED capacity.

===== WS281x =====
Three strings of single wire ''' [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1138 WS281x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 17-19'''. These type of serial LEDs do not have a clock signal so light shows may get out of sync with other events, but they are extremely inexpensive.

* '''J8 Pin 17''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 18''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 19''': Serial Data 0

===== LPD880x =====
Three strings of '''[https://www.adafruit.com/product/306 LPD880x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 7-9''' and '''12-14'''. These style include a clock signal for proper syncing.

* '''J8 Pin 7''': Serial Clock 2
* '''J8 Pin 8''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 9''': Serial Clock 1
* '''J8 Pin 12''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 13''': Serial Clock 0
* '''J8 Pin 14''': Serial Data 0

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built - more switches means more ''SW-16s'', more solenoids means more ''PD-16s'' and so on.

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire a game, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

Three main voltages are required: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''12V''' for switches and '''24V to 70V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for switches. For solenoids, you can use a separate switcher if you also use the '''Power Entry''' board as it has capacitors to handle sudden current demands - otherwise a switching power supply has built-in protection that will switch itself off due to the sudden overload.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Each board is chained to the '''P3-ROC''' via multiple 2-wire cables, and each board has a unique ID set via the on-board DIP switches. Multiple boards are attached to the previous board in a daisy-chain until the chain ends at the '''P3-ROC''' as in the below diagram. The diagram is only an example - any ''driver'' board can be connected to ''driver serial'', so you can put either ''PD-16s'' or ''PD-LEDs'' on the ''driver serial'' in any order.

[[Image:serial-diagram.png|Serial Connections]]

==== Serial Cables ====
Although almost any wire over 28AWG will do to make the serial cables, It is recommended to twist the wires in a pair to help cut down on electrical interference. This can be done by hand, or by placing the ends of the wire in a drill and spinning it. Another popular option is to re-purpose inexpensive CAT5 ethernet wires as they come pre-twisted.

Wires are connected '''positive to positive''' and '''negative to negative'''. So, for the ''switch'' cable, '''Pin 2''' (Serial Switch Data +) goes to '''Pin 2''' on the '''SW-16''' and so on.

==== DIP Switches ====
[[Image:DIP.jpg|DIP Switch]]

Each board includes an 8-position DIP switch, which is used to set the ID of the board in question, terminate a chain of boards, and set some additional settings.

Each board needs a unique ID ''per serial chain'' - ie. you can have two ''Board 0''s as long as they are on different chains. '''DIP 1-6''' sets the ID in '''binary''' notation. So if you want to set the board ID to 5, you would set DIP 1 and 4 to ''On''. If the board is the last board in the chain, set 8 to ''On'' as well.

[[Image:DIP.png|400px|DIP Switch]]

=== Wiring Examples ===
There are a number of ways to connect the '''P3-ROC''' boards to your machine but the following are some basic configurations to illustrate serial, power and device connections.

'''Important Note:''' When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, solenoids and LEDs, it is '''critical''' to connect all grounds together at the power supplies (or use the '''Power Entry''' board) to avoid a potential floating ground issue that can easily destroy your boards.

==== Serial Wiring ====
Remember to use ''twisted wire'' to help mitigate electrical interference with the serial signal.

[[Image:twisted.png|Twisted Pair]]

For ''Switch'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Ground
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 3
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
|}

For ''Driver'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
| 3
| Ground
|-
|}

[[Image:serial.png|Serial Example]]

File:Twisted.png

2018-07-29T01:55:28Z

Jwilson:

P3-ROC

2018-07-29T01:52:33Z

Jwilson: /* Serial Wiring */

The '''P3-ROC''' is the next evolution of the [https://www.multimorphic.com/ Multimorphic] line of pinball controllers. Designed for use in their '''P3''' modular system, it is well suited to custom game construction thanks to that very same modularity.

== Hardware ==

The '''P3-ROC''' hardware consists of five main boards:

* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/ P3-ROC]''' is the main controller device which plugs into a PC via USB and allows the PC to communicate with the various input/output boards.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-16/ PD-16]''' allows control of up to 16 solenoids or other high voltage devices.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/sw-16/ SW-16]''' supports up to 16 switch inputs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-led/ PD-LED]''' allows control of up to 84 single LEDs or up to 2048 serial LEDs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry]''' provides a simple and safe way to connect power between multiple power supplies and game devices.

Additionally, they provide a number of support devices such as long range optos, RGB LED boards and audio amps.

[[Image:P3-roc-boards.jpg|Conversion of an EM game using P3-ROC]]

''From top left moving clockwise: SW-16, 8x8 (deprecated matrix controller for lamps), PD-16, Power Entry, P3-ROC and RPi3 as controller PC''

=== P3-ROC Controller Board ===
At the heart of the system is the '''P3-ROC''' ''Controller Board''. All other boards communicate through it and it handles all the signalling needed, relieving the PC to handle game rules instead of switch matrix scanning, pulse-width modulation of coils, and other low-level device support.

[[Image:P3-ROC.png|P3-ROC board]]

Although it appears complicated due to the number of connectors on the board, the majority of the .100" headers are to support the P3 long-range optos and are not relevant to most custom game makers.

The theory of operation, dip switches and what the LEDs mean is explained in the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation] but the key connections are:

* '''J1''': Power input (5V) using a standard PC power supply connector
* '''J2''': Power input (5V) using standard pinball-style .156" Molex connector
* '''J11''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J12''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J13''': USB connector to computer
* '''J14''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J15''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J17''': I2C Serial connector (.100" Molex)

==== Serial Interface ====
The '''P3-ROC''' uses the '''RS-485''' serial protocol to communicate to the attached boards. Designed for high EM environments, it has excellent error correction and robust signalling and is well suited for the ''noisy'' world under a pinball playfield.

Note that the ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' serial connectors have different pinouts, to help avoid mixing up connectors when assembling wiring.

There are a total of '''four''' serial connectors - two for switches (''SW-16'') and two for drivers (''PD-16'' and ''PD-LED''). This allows for chains to easily extend to the backbox and playfield, or playfield and cabinet.

=== PD-16 Driver Board ===
For controlling solenoids and other high current devices there is the '''PD-16''' Driver board.

[[Image:PD-16.png|PD-16 Driver Board]]

It uses '''16 MOSFETs''' in a ''ground-sink'' configuration - high power devices are connected directly to the positive voltage, then connected to the ''PD-16'' which activates the device by connecting it to ground. It is divided into two banks of 8, with ''in-rush'' diodes on all inputs to protect the board, so diodes are not required on solenoids.

From the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connections (all .156" Molex unless specified) are:

* '''J1''': 5V input
* '''J3''': Bank A High Power Out
* '''J4''': Bank B High Power Out
* '''J5''': Bank A High Power In
* '''J6''': Bank B High Power In
* '''J7''': Bank A Input (ground)
* '''J9''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J10''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J11''': Bank B Input (ground)

==== Power Connections ====
High power ('''24V - 70V''') is connected directly to the ''PD-16'', which is fused, then output from the board to the high power devices, or to additional ''PD-16s''. In addition, '''5V''' is required to run the onboard logic and serial communications.

=== SW-16 Switch Board ===

For reading individual switches, the '''SW-16''' switch board is used.

[[Image:SW-16.png|SW-16 Switch Board]]

The ''SW-16'' uses '''12V''' for switches and works opposite of the driver boards - ground is connected to the switches and when closed, completes the circuit on the board. It is divided into two banks of 8. The 12V switch power is stepped down to 5V to handle the on-board logic and serial.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are:

* '''J1''': 12V Power (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Bank A Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J4''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J6''': Bank B Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)

=== PD-LED Light Board ===
Modern pinball machines use LEDs (light emitting diodes) for lighting, and the '''PD-LED''' is designed to drive them.

[[Image:PD-LED.png|PD-LED Light Board]]

The ''PD-LED'' can drive '''84''' individual LEDs using the seven 20-pin connectors on the board. Depending on the LED, power is supplied to the LEDs (resistors may be required depending on the forward voltage of the LED in question) and the cathode leg of the LED is connected to the ''PD-LED'' which grounds it to light. Some LEDs may be common anode so the wiring will be reversed.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/PD-LED-2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are as follows:

* '''J1''': 5V Logic (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J5''': LED 0-11
* '''J6''': LED 24-35
* '''J7''': LED 48-59
* '''J8''': LED 72-83 and Serial LED Control
* '''J9''': LED 12-23
* '''J10''': LED 36-47
* '''J11''': LED 60-71

==== Serial LED Control ====
The ''PD-LED'' can also serially control LED strings via '''J8'''. The board will need to be configured for serial use, and the pins used for serial communications with the LED strings cannot be used for single LEDs, thus reducing the total LED capacity.

===== WS281x =====
Three strings of single wire ''' [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1138 WS281x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 17-19'''. These type of serial LEDs do not have a clock signal so light shows may get out of sync with other events, but they are extremely inexpensive.

* '''J8 Pin 17''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 18''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 19''': Serial Data 0

===== LPD880x =====
Three strings of '''[https://www.adafruit.com/product/306 LPD880x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 7-9''' and '''12-14'''. These style include a clock signal for proper syncing.

* '''J8 Pin 7''': Serial Clock 2
* '''J8 Pin 8''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 9''': Serial Clock 1
* '''J8 Pin 12''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 13''': Serial Clock 0
* '''J8 Pin 14''': Serial Data 0

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built - more switches means more ''SW-16s'', more solenoids means more ''PD-16s'' and so on.

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire a game, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

Three main voltages are required: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''12V''' for switches and '''24V to 70V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for switches. For solenoids, you can use a separate switcher if you also use the '''Power Entry''' board as it has capacitors to handle sudden current demands - otherwise a switching power supply has built-in protection that will switch itself off due to the sudden overload.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Each board is chained to the '''P3-ROC''' via multiple 2-wire cables, and each board has a unique ID set via the on-board DIP switches. Multiple boards are attached to the previous board in a daisy-chain until the chain ends at the '''P3-ROC''' as in the below diagram. The diagram is only an example - any ''driver'' board can be connected to ''driver serial'', so you can put either ''PD-16s'' or ''PD-LEDs'' on the ''driver serial'' in any order.

[[Image:serial-diagram.png|Serial Connections]]

==== Serial Cables ====
Although almost any wire over 28AWG will do to make the serial cables, It is recommended to twist the wires in a pair to help cut down on electrical interference. This can be done by hand, or by placing the ends of the wire in a drill and spinning it. Another popular option is to re-purpose inexpensive CAT5 ethernet wires as they come pre-twisted.

Wires are connected '''positive to positive''' and '''negative to negative'''. So, for the ''switch'' cable, '''Pin 2''' (Serial Switch Data +) goes to '''Pin 2''' on the '''SW-16''' and so on.

==== DIP Switches ====
[[Image:DIP.jpg|DIP Switch]]

Each board includes an 8-position DIP switch, which is used to set the ID of the board in question, terminate a chain of boards, and set some additional settings.

Each board needs a unique ID ''per serial chain'' - ie. you can have two ''Board 0''s as long as they are on different chains. '''DIP 1-6''' sets the ID in '''binary''' notation. So if you want to set the board ID to 5, you would set DIP 1 and 4 to ''On''. If the board is the last board in the chain, set 8 to ''On'' as well.

[[Image:DIP.png|400px|DIP Switch]]

=== Wiring Examples ===
There are a number of ways to connect the '''P3-ROC''' boards to your machine but the following are some basic configurations to illustrate serial, power and device connections.

'''Important Note:''' When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, solenoids and LEDs, it is '''critical''' to connect all grounds together at the power supplies (or use the '''Power Entry''' board) to avoid a potential floating ground issue that can easily destroy your boards.

==== Serial Wiring ====
Remember to use ''twisted wire'' to help mitigate electrical interference with the serial signal.

For ''Switch'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Ground
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 3
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
|}

For ''Driver'' serial, the pinout is:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Pin
! Description
|-
| 1
| Serial Switch Data +
|-
| 2
| Serial Switch Data -
|-
| 3
| Ground
|-
|}

[[Image:serial.png|Serial Example]]

P3-ROC

2018-07-29T01:40:56Z

Jwilson: /* Serial Wiring */

The '''P3-ROC''' is the next evolution of the [https://www.multimorphic.com/ Multimorphic] line of pinball controllers. Designed for use in their '''P3''' modular system, it is well suited to custom game construction thanks to that very same modularity.

== Hardware ==

The '''P3-ROC''' hardware consists of five main boards:

* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/ P3-ROC]''' is the main controller device which plugs into a PC via USB and allows the PC to communicate with the various input/output boards.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-16/ PD-16]''' allows control of up to 16 solenoids or other high voltage devices.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/sw-16/ SW-16]''' supports up to 16 switch inputs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/pd-led/ PD-LED]''' allows control of up to 84 single LEDs or up to 2048 serial LEDs.
* '''[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/ Power Entry]''' provides a simple and safe way to connect power between multiple power supplies and game devices.

Additionally, they provide a number of support devices such as long range optos, RGB LED boards and audio amps.

[[Image:P3-roc-boards.jpg|Conversion of an EM game using P3-ROC]]

''From top left moving clockwise: SW-16, 8x8 (deprecated matrix controller for lamps), PD-16, Power Entry, P3-ROC and RPi3 as controller PC''

=== P3-ROC Controller Board ===
At the heart of the system is the '''P3-ROC''' ''Controller Board''. All other boards communicate through it and it handles all the signalling needed, relieving the PC to handle game rules instead of switch matrix scanning, pulse-width modulation of coils, and other low-level device support.

[[Image:P3-ROC.png|P3-ROC board]]

Although it appears complicated due to the number of connectors on the board, the majority of the .100" headers are to support the P3 long-range optos and are not relevant to most custom game makers.

The theory of operation, dip switches and what the LEDs mean is explained in the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation] but the key connections are:

* '''J1''': Power input (5V) using a standard PC power supply connector
* '''J2''': Power input (5V) using standard pinball-style .156" Molex connector
* '''J11''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J12''': Serial connector 0 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J13''': USB connector to computer
* '''J14''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''SW-16'' switch boards
* '''J15''': Serial connector 1 (.100" Molex) for ''PD-16'' driver boards
* '''J17''': I2C Serial connector (.100" Molex)

==== Serial Interface ====
The '''P3-ROC''' uses the '''RS-485''' serial protocol to communicate to the attached boards. Designed for high EM environments, it has excellent error correction and robust signalling and is well suited for the ''noisy'' world under a pinball playfield.

Note that the ''Switch'' and ''Driver'' serial connectors have different pinouts, to help avoid mixing up connectors when assembling wiring.

There are a total of '''four''' serial connectors - two for switches (''SW-16'') and two for drivers (''PD-16'' and ''PD-LED''). This allows for chains to easily extend to the backbox and playfield, or playfield and cabinet.

=== PD-16 Driver Board ===
For controlling solenoids and other high current devices there is the '''PD-16''' Driver board.

[[Image:PD-16.png|PD-16 Driver Board]]

It uses '''16 MOSFETs''' in a ''ground-sink'' configuration - high power devices are connected directly to the positive voltage, then connected to the ''PD-16'' which activates the device by connecting it to ground. It is divided into two banks of 8, with ''in-rush'' diodes on all inputs to protect the board, so diodes are not required on solenoids.

From the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connections (all .156" Molex unless specified) are:

* '''J1''': 5V input
* '''J3''': Bank A High Power Out
* '''J4''': Bank B High Power Out
* '''J5''': Bank A High Power In
* '''J6''': Bank B High Power In
* '''J7''': Bank A Input (ground)
* '''J9''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J10''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J11''': Bank B Input (ground)

==== Power Connections ====
High power ('''24V - 70V''') is connected directly to the ''PD-16'', which is fused, then output from the board to the high power devices, or to additional ''PD-16s''. In addition, '''5V''' is required to run the onboard logic and serial communications.

=== SW-16 Switch Board ===

For reading individual switches, the '''SW-16''' switch board is used.

[[Image:SW-16.png|SW-16 Switch Board]]

The ''SW-16'' uses '''12V''' for switches and works opposite of the driver boards - ground is connected to the switches and when closed, completes the circuit on the board. It is divided into two banks of 8. The 12V switch power is stepped down to 5V to handle the on-board logic and serial.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are:

* '''J1''': 12V Power (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Bank A Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J4''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J6''': Bank B Switch Inputs (.100" Molex)

=== PD-LED Light Board ===
Modern pinball machines use LEDs (light emitting diodes) for lighting, and the '''PD-LED''' is designed to drive them.

[[Image:PD-LED.png|PD-LED Light Board]]

The ''PD-LED'' can drive '''84''' individual LEDs using the seven 20-pin connectors on the board. Depending on the LED, power is supplied to the LEDs (resistors may be required depending on the forward voltage of the LED in question) and the cathode leg of the LED is connected to the ''PD-LED'' which grounds it to light. Some LEDs may be common anode so the wiring will be reversed.

Per the [https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/PD-LED-2_LLD_2-0.pdf documentation], the connectors are as follows:

* '''J1''': 5V Logic (.156" Molex)
* '''J2''': Serial In (.100" Molex)
* '''J3''': Serial Out (.100" Molex)
* '''J5''': LED 0-11
* '''J6''': LED 24-35
* '''J7''': LED 48-59
* '''J8''': LED 72-83 and Serial LED Control
* '''J9''': LED 12-23
* '''J10''': LED 36-47
* '''J11''': LED 60-71

==== Serial LED Control ====
The ''PD-LED'' can also serially control LED strings via '''J8'''. The board will need to be configured for serial use, and the pins used for serial communications with the LED strings cannot be used for single LEDs, thus reducing the total LED capacity.

===== WS281x =====
Three strings of single wire ''' [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1138 WS281x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 17-19'''. These type of serial LEDs do not have a clock signal so light shows may get out of sync with other events, but they are extremely inexpensive.

* '''J8 Pin 17''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 18''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 19''': Serial Data 0

===== LPD880x =====
Three strings of '''[https://www.adafruit.com/product/306 LPD880x-style]''' serial LEDs can be controlled from '''pins 7-9''' and '''12-14'''. These style include a clock signal for proper syncing.

* '''J8 Pin 7''': Serial Clock 2
* '''J8 Pin 8''': Serial Data 2
* '''J8 Pin 9''': Serial Clock 1
* '''J8 Pin 12''': Serial Data 1
* '''J8 Pin 13''': Serial Clock 0
* '''J8 Pin 14''': Serial Data 0

== Before You Start ==

Prior to ordering boards, a number of tools and materials will need to be on hand, and a number of decisions will be made based on the pinball machine being built - more switches means more ''SW-16s'', more solenoids means more ''PD-16s'' and so on.

==== Tools and Materials Required ====

To build and wire a game, you will need:

* '''Wire:''' Look on eBay for stranded wire in the 22-24AWG size.
* '''Side Cutters'''
* '''Pliers'''
* '''Soldering Iron:''' The [https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471620603&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station Hakko FX888D] is a popular, inexpensive brand. A lower-priced option is this iron from [http://www.dx.com/p/yf-951-thermostat-soldering-iron-110v-135519 DX].
* '''Solder:''' [https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC Kester 44] is an excellent 63/37 solder. [http://www.dx.com/p/0-81mm-tin-solder-soldering-welding-iron-wire-silvery-grey-109m-193930 DX] also has a less expensive option.
* '''Crimping Tool:''' [http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW Marco Specialities] offers an inexpensive tool. Another option is the '''SN-28B''' ratcheting crimp tool - it can be purchased for less than $15 on eBay.

==== Power Supply Needs ====

Three main voltages are required: '''5V 3A''' for logic, '''12V''' for switches and '''24V to 70V 10A''' for solenoids (depending on what coils you use). See the [[Construction#Power_Supplies|Power Supply]] section for details of what is available.

An inexpensive option is to use a PC power supply, which provides high current '''5V''' for logic and '''12V''' for switches. For solenoids, you can use a separate switcher if you also use the '''Power Entry''' board as it has capacitors to handle sudden current demands - otherwise a switching power supply has built-in protection that will switch itself off due to the sudden overload.

== Connecting Multiple Boards ==

Each board is chained to the '''P3-ROC''' via multiple 2-wire cables, and each board has a unique ID set via the on-board DIP switches. Multiple boards are attached to the previous board in a daisy-chain until the chain ends at the '''P3-ROC''' as in the below diagram. The diagram is only an example - any ''driver'' board can be connected to ''driver serial'', so you can put either ''PD-16s'' or ''PD-LEDs'' on the ''driver serial'' in any order.

[[Image:serial-diagram.png|Serial Connections]]

==== Serial Cables ====
Although almost any wire over 28AWG will do to make the serial cables, It is recommended to twist the wires in a pair to help cut down on electrical interference. This can be done by hand, or by placing the ends of the wire in a drill and spinning it. Another popular option is to re-purpose inexpensive CAT5 ethernet wires as they come pre-twisted.

Wires are connected '''positive to positive''' and '''negative to negative'''. So, for the ''switch'' cable, '''Pin 2''' (Serial Switch Data +) goes to '''Pin 2''' on the '''SW-16''' and so on.

==== DIP Switches ====
[[Image:DIP.jpg|DIP Switch]]

Each board includes an 8-position DIP switch, which is used to set the ID of the board in question, terminate a chain of boards, and set some additional settings.

Each board needs a unique ID ''per serial chain'' - ie. you can have two ''Board 0''s as long as they are on different chains. '''DIP 1-6''' sets the ID in '''binary''' notation. So if you want to set the board ID to 5, you would set DIP 1 and 4 to ''On''. If the board is the last board in the chain, set 8 to ''On'' as well.

[[Image:DIP.png|400px|DIP Switch]]

=== Wiring Examples ===
There are a number of ways to connect the '''P3-ROC''' boards to your machine but the following are some basic configurations to illustrate serial, power and device connections.

'''Important Note:''' When wiring up multiple power supplies for logic, solenoids and LEDs, it is '''critical''' to connect all grounds together at the power supplies (or use the '''Power Entry''' board) to avoid a potential floating ground issue that can easily destroy your boards.

==== Serial Wiring ====

[[Image:serial.png|Serial Example]]

Serial is handled by '''J11, J12, J14''' and '''J15.''' Remember to use ''twisted wire'' to help mitigate electrical interference with the serial signal.