Pinball Makers (Staging) - User contributions [en]

Programming

2015-01-25T03:02:13Z

BloodyCactus: /* Rules */

== Languages ==
Your programming languages are going to be dictated, mostly by your hardware control system. Off the shelf systems such as P-ROC or Fast have a close relationship to PyProcGame and the Mission Pinball Framework as more higher level programming systems.

Using the more lower level libpinproc library for P-ROC boards, will allow you to bind into other languages and build your own layering by using things like SDL or SFML which gives you access to OpenGL and other fancy graphics api's.

Obviously, if your using custom hardware, you probably have the means for writing your own software however you see fit.

=== Pinball Frameworks ===
[https://missionpinball.com/framework/ Mission Pinball]
Currently supports both P-ROC and FAST controllers, written in Python

[http://pyprocgame.pindev.org/ PyProcGame]
Developed originally for the P-ROC controllers. Written in Python

[https://github.com/preble/libpinproc libPinPROC]
This is a lower level C library for P-ROC

== Rules ==
As pinball hardware advanced, rule sets advanced. Electro Mechanical (EM) pinballs often struggled to register multiple drop target hits at the same time, early Solid State (SS) brought us into the era of using CPU's and discreet hardware logic. Faster CPUs, more memory, deeper rulesets.

Programming rule sets can go from the simple (Complete the rollovers for bonus multiplier) to stacking several mode scoring multiballs together.

Going deeper into rule tracking requires you to know state. What was the state of all the switches N seconds ago? N minutes? What changed. Think of an orbit shot, you need at least two switches, one of the left side orbit entry, one of the right side orbit entry. An orbit is complete if you hit both switches. It takes time for the ball to travel from one side to the other, There may be 5 seconds or more if the ball is slow, struggles to get to the apex and dribbles down the other side. A failed orbit may count two hits two one of the switches.. it may count only one hit if the ball just makes it and rolls back down. The orbit shot is a good example of needing to know the previous switch state, the question then becomes, how many previous states do you track?

;Exercise for the reader
: If an orbit is a multiball jackpot shot, what do you do when a second ball enters the left orbit before the first ball has triggered the right orbit switch?

;Answer
: An orbit that can be feed either direction is probably not a good way to score a jackpot. This is why a ramp shot is very easy to track a jackpot on, ramps have an apex and once your past the apex, any exit switch hit from the ramp is easily countable.

Another example of an advanced rule would be tracking the order of something, say if you had 5 drop targets that gave an extra bonus if you hit them in order of 1 to 5 or 5 to 1, you have then introduced a variable outside of switch state, into the code that you have to keep track of and manage. This variable now has to be managed outside of just hitting the targets, reset on a ball drain, reset if a mode changes maybe, reset if the drop targets are reset.

You can increase the complexity by remembering the state of that variable and which targets have been hit or not between changing players.

The deeper your rules become, the more variables, flags and timers you will need to track and manage.

;Things to think about
* If a target enables a kickback, do you count extra kick backs if it is already lit?
* Know how many balls are in the ball trough before you light the add-a-ball insert.

{write about stacking modes, and timers and virtual/real ball locks/tournament mode changes}

[[Basic mode rules]]

[[tournament rules]]

=== Light Shows ===

[[insert lights]]

[[attract mode]]

[[insert light groups]]

[[backbox lighting]]

=== Modes ===

[[mini-modes]] - Drop target sets, etc

[[modes]]

[[special modes]]

=== Settings/Preferences ===

[[Auditing]]

[[Settings]]

[[Diagnostics]]

=== Scoring ===

[[Bonus Lanes]]

[[Basic scoring]]

=== Procedures ===

[[Ball Save]]

[[Skill Shot]]

[[Tilt]]

[[Game Start]]

[[Game End]]

[[Extra Ball]]

[[Replay]]

[[Status Report]] - Holding down a flipper for a status report

[[Ball Seek]]

Hardware-specific procedures

[[Drop Targets]]

[[Slingshots]]

[[Kicker cup]]

== Sound ==
With anything that conveys sound as a key to whats going on, you want to have some form of priority. A background sound effect might have a low priority of say 4, but 'Shoot the ram for jackpot' might have a priority of 1. If a priority 1 sound is playing, and the player his a switch that triggers a background sound effect, the system can know now to play the sound effect over the top of the more important jackpot instruction call out. You also do not want to be playing sounds continuously over the top of one another, say you have an explosion sound when a pop bumper is triggered, if the ball is getting a lot of pop bumper action and triggering 3 pops in very fast succession, you do not want to have the sound affect triggered as one long continuous shotgunning whitenoise. You could choose not to play the same sound effect unless N time has passed (say 3 seconds), or never play the same sound affect at the same time.

Too many sound effects playing over each over mutes the affect it should have on the player.

You should also normalise the volume of all the sound effects to the same level so it does not play havoc with the volume control on the machine itself.

[[sound assignments]]

[[Music loops]]

[[Basic sounds]]

[[voice callouts]]

Programming

2015-01-25T02:11:24Z

BloodyCactus: /* Languages */

Programming

2015-01-25T01:57:21Z

BloodyCactus: /* Sound */

== Languages ==
=== Frameworks ===
[https://missionpinball.com/framework/ Mission Pinball]

== Rules ==

[[Basic mode rules]]

[[tournament rules]]

=== Light Shows ===

[[insert lights]]

[[attract mode]]

[[insert light groups]]

[[backbox lighting]]

=== Modes ===

[[mini-modes]] - Drop target sets, etc

[[modes]]

[[special modes]]

=== Settings/Preferences ===

[[Auditing]]

[[Settings]]

[[Diagnostics]]

=== Scoring ===

[[Bonus Lanes]]

[[Basic scoring]]

=== Procedures ===

[[Ball Save]]

[[Skill Shot]]

[[Tilt]]

[[Game Start]]

[[Game End]]

[[Extra Ball]]

[[Replay]]

[[Status Report]] - Holding down a flipper for a status report

[[Ball Seek]]

Hardware-specific procedures

[[Drop Targets]]

[[Slingshots]]

[[Kicker cup]]

== Sound ==
With anything that conveys sound as a key to whats going on, you want to have some form of priority. A background sound effect might have a low priority of say 4, but 'Shoot the ram for jackpot' might have a priority of 1. If a priority 1 sound is playing, and the player his a switch that triggers a background sound effect, the system can know now to play the sound effect over the top of the more important jackpot instruction call out. You also do not want to be playing sounds continuously over the top of one another, say you have an explosion sound when a pop bumper is triggered, if the ball is getting a lot of pop bumper action and triggering 3 pops in very fast succession, you do not want to have the sound affect triggered as one long continuous shotgunning whitenoise. You could choose not to play the same sound effect unless N time has passed (say 3 seconds), or never play the same sound affect at the same time.

Too many sound effects playing over each over mutes the affect it should have on the player.

You should also normalise the volume of all the sound effects to the same level so it does not play havoc with the volume control on the machine itself.

[[sound assignments]]

[[Music loops]]

[[Basic sounds]]

[[voice callouts]]

Construction

2015-01-19T23:14:13Z

BloodyCactus: /* Power Supplies */

== Tools ==

=== Specialty Tools ===

These are tools that are specific to pinball.

* Pinbits has a [http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=59 Pop Bumper Drilling Template] to use when drilling the playfield for pops. Instructions for use [http://www.iobium.com/pop_bumper_drilling_template.htm here].

=== Metalworking Tools ===

[[Image:tools-metal.jpg|700px]]

* A few different colored sharpies for marking cuts and bends
* 4 1/2" angle grinder for cutting and grinding
* Flap disc grinding pads of multiple grits
* Metal cutting blades for a grinder
* Safety glasses and gloves
* A bunch of different size C-clamps - at least one large and two big enough to clamp large items
* A Square
* Measuring tape
* Different sized ballpein hammers
* Drill bits for steel
* Center punch
* Blow Torch - MAP Gas works best, Propane as a second choice

A '''Metal Brake''' is useful for bending sheet steel to make brackets.

[[Image:metal-brake.jpg|500px]]

The above example is available from [http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch-metal-brake-with-stand-91012.html Harbor Freight].

If space is at a premium, there are smaller [http://www.micromark.com/mini-metal-shear-and-brake,9645.html tabletop] versions as well.

[[Image:home-brake.jpg]]

If cost is an issue, you can [http://toolguyd.com/diy-sheet-metal-bending-brake/ make your own] from common hardware store parts.

=== Woodworking Tools ===

Beyond the standard [http://www.pinrestore.com/Tools.html hand tools] needed to create a machine from scratch, here are some additional tools:

[[Image:router.png]]

A '''Hand Router''' for creating insert and device holes in the playfield.

[[Image:jigsaw.png]]

A '''Table Jigsaw''' for cutting playfield plastics, or plexi for your initial whitewood inserts.

[[Image:sander.png]]

A '''Hand Sander''' to level the playfield. You should also have sand paper in various grits ranging from 180 up to 320, plus finer grits for final polishing.

[[Image:forstner-bit.png]]]

'''Forstner bits''' for drilling clean holes. Easier than using the router.

=== Cabinet Tools ===

[[Image:table-router.png]]

For cabinet building, a table router with '''Locking Mitre''' bits.

[[Image:mitre-bit.png]]

It is a bit that creates a locking edge between cabinet corners.

=== Advanced Tools ===

Although not strictly needed for hobbyists, the following are nice-to-have if you have some deep pockets, and they make whitewood production much faster and far more consistent. Rather than purchasing these, the best option is to find a local '''[http://www.techshop.ws/locations.html Maker Space]''' that has the equipment available for rent or through a monthly membership.

==== CNC ====

[[Image: cnc-router.png]]

A large-format CNC machine can take drawings from AutoCAD or Inkscape to cut a playfield exactly to the design, which will be much more accurate than one done by hand with a router.

Some reasonably-priced options include:

* [http://www.shopbottools.com/mProducts/prSstandard.htm ShopBOT]
* [http://mechmate.com/ MechMate]
* [http://www.generalcnc.ca/home GeneralCNC]

For smaller parts, there are much cheaper alternatives:

* [http://www.shapeoko.com/ Shapeoko] uses a standard hand router, like a Dremel, as the cutting tool, and is priced under $1K.

==== Laser Cutters ====

[[Image: laser-cutter.png]]

Using a laser cutter on plastics means fast prototyping of playfield plastics, and most cutters will also do engraving for interesting effects. Really high powered units will cut wood as well.

Some examples include [https://www.epiloglaser.com/ Epilog] and [http://www.ulsinc.com/ Universal].

A lower cost option is the [http://fslaser.com/products/lasers/hobby-lasers/newhobby Full Spectrum Laser].

== Materials ==

A rundown of the various materials needed to produce a whitewood.

=== Plywood ===

Commercial pinball machines use a specially sourced type of plywood that is not available from big box stores and generally not even specialty wood suppliers.

The thickness of a raw playfield is '''17/32"''', which is then sanded on top with inserts installed to a finished size of '''1/2"'''. Each side is a full face of hard '''Maple''' with five plys in-between, not a thin veneer to allow for this sanding. The following photo illustrates the full seven plys:

[[Image:plywood.png]]

The type of [http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/specialty-panels/hardwood-plywood/1-2-x-4-x-8-baltic-birch-plywood/p-1479673-c-13334.htm plywood] available at a big box store will have a thin ply on both sides, generally of softer '''Baltic Birch''', and will not have the surface area to allow a full 1/32" sanding to level the surface and inserts together.

For hobbyists, the best option is '''Cabinet Grade''' plywood, preferably from a lumber yard, with a minimum of seven plys but a preference for nine - the more plys, the more stable and flat. This type of plywood will have a thicker top and bottom ply suitable for sanding. It will generally be the softer birch but for one-off games, it should prove acceptable.

[[Image:cabinet-grade.png]]

Another affordable option for whitewoods is '''Medium Density Fibreboard'''. Typically sold as '''MDF''', it is also available in large quantities. The drawback for MDF is that it has poor flexibility and does not allow for easy removal and re-installation of screwed in parts.

=== Sheetmetal ===

For ramps, ball guides and various other uses.

[http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-sheets/=ve62im Sheet Steel] at McMaster-Carr.

[http://www.grainger.com/category/stainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock/stainless-steel/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c22?bc=y#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fstainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock%2Fstainless-steel%2Fraw-materials%2Fecatalog%2FN-c22Z1z0o8uzZ1z0nmq0 Sheet Steel] including stainless at Grainger.

=== Inserts ===

For a whitewood, the easiest option is to use [http://www.eplastics.com/PLEXIGLASS-ACRYCLR0-060FM24X48 thin plexiglass] for inserts as it is readily available and fairly easy to cut to size with a table jigsaw. This allows for skipping the final sanding stage if using 1/2" plywood instead of 17/32".

Real pinball inserts are available in various sizes and colors from a number of suppliers including [http://www.pbresource.com/playfins.html Pinball Resource] and [http://www.marcospec.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=inserts Marco Specialities].

Some examples of the inserts available:

[[Image:inserts.png]]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-1FGS 1″ round green star #PI-1FGS]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-34RO 3/4″ round Orange #PI-34RO]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-58RW 5/8″ round White opaque #PI-58RW]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-112TGT 1-1/2″ triangle Green #PI-112TGT]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-901 Rollover star button housing red 3A-7537 #C-901]

Standard depth of inserts are '''1/4"''' and they are designed to be sanded flat after installation - there will be a number cast into the top of the part and the top edge will be slightly raised around the radius by approximately 1/32". Thus, when creating insert holes, you must drill slightly less than 1/4" deep to allow for the sanding.

=== Playfield Parts ===

The best source of parts like switch targets, pop bumpers, posts and other miscellaneous bits is from parts machines - picking up a used machine with a worn playfield and just cleaning up those parts will be ten times cheaper than buying all new parts.

However, given the increasing value of even older solid-state machines, finding games to part out is becoming increasingly difficult, so the only option may be purchasing new.

Once a preliminary [[Design|design]] is complete, the next step is to create an initial prototype, known in the industry as a '''Whitewood'''.

== Whitewood ==

The origin of the term ''whitewood'' is related to the material of the playfield, which is traditionally '''White Maple'''. The first iteration of a game will not have any artwork or lighting as the purpose is to test the layout, flipper shots and the overall ''feel'' of the design to confirm it plays as expected.

The second iteration of the whitewood - generally a different playfield rather than the existing one re-cut - will include inserts, lighting and any ramps or playfield devices needed for the complete game. This version of the prototype is used to create the first iteration of the ruleset and special effects.

Here is an unpopulated whitewood for Cirqus Voltaire, which is a later iteration that does have inserts for lighting, but not yet having artwork.

[[Image:cv-whitewood.png]]

Here is a populated whitewood for AC/DC, which does not have the later sub-playfield so is much earlier in the design process.

[[Image:acdc-whitewood.png]]

Typically a playfield is made of 9-ply birch plywood, '''17/32"''' thick with the additional 1/32" allowing for the inserts to be sanded flush. A number of European manufacturers used plastic playfields, and some domestic companies experimented with them in the 1970's, but the vast majority use plywood.

=== Standard Playfield Sizes ===

'' see [[Playfield Sizes]] ''

=== Foam Core ===

When creating an initial whitewood to test shots, install the lower third (flippers, slingshots) and side rails, but use '''Foam Core''' for your ramps and any upper playfield stuff. It is easy to cut and form with hot glue, quickly and cleanly. It is also strong enough to endure test playing without breaking.

[[Image:foam-core.jpg|500px]]

Use '''1/4" to 1/8"''' for ramp bottoms, and hot glue thinner '''posterboard''' on the sides. You can also use posterboard for the transitions between the playfield and the ramps. Trace the shape of the ramp on the foam core, cut it out, then glue on thinner sides.

Foam core can also be used for stand ups, pop bumpers and other devices to test other shots. Either stack it or stand it up and glue it together. Use hot glue for everything - easy to use, dries quickly, holds strong, and you can rip it apart to change things as needed.

[[Image:foam-core-4.jpg]]

When complete, the game should be basically playable in terms of playfield and ramp shots, and if the game plays okay with foam core, it will play even better in plastic and metal.

[[Image:foam-core-2.jpg|500px]]

=== Cutting ===

(Sourced from a tutorial by Josh Kugler) [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=843.0]

Before proceeding with any cutting, a completed playfield drawing is needed, to be used as a template. For details on that portion of the process, visit the [[Design]] section of the wiki. One tip that will help later is to add centering lines to all the drilled insert circles to aid in proper placement.

Once complete, take the file to a ''FedexOffice'' or similar '''Printing House''' and have it printed full size. Use '''3M Spray adhesive''' to glue the print to your playfield surface. This print acts as your drilling and cutting template.

[[Image:pf-cutting-1.png|500px]]

Use two '''Forstner bits''' for each insert. The first is the wider opening that is the same size as the insert, drilled to the appropriate depth of the insert which is typically '''1/4"'''. The second bit is '''1/16"''' smaller can then be used to drill the through hole. This leaves a '''1/32"''' lip for the insert to sit on.

Since the Forstner bit has a centering point there is a natural centering hole for the second bit, making it easier to get it lined up right. The cleanest technique is to drill just short of going through, and then complete the hole from the other side using a standard cordless drill.

[[Image:pf-cutting-2.png|500px]]

Don’t do the three steps in order per hole, but the first step for a bunch of holes, then the second and third.

For creating a non-circular insert, use a router with a template and '''Bushing guide''' - a router bit with a small roller bearing on it runs along your guide, while the cutting head runs in the playfield to cut the hole to the size of the template. Creating the template is the hard part, but once you have that, it is relatively easy to route multiple holes for the inserts. This is a three step process similar to the circular inserts.

As with the circular inserts, first create the ''wider'' opening. This is done by clamping the template to the playfield and then routing the wider opening using the bearing bit.

Drill a couple of holes in the center of the insert so there is less to route. This is also helpful when doing the second step, of cutting out the inner opening, that is slightly smaller then the insert opening, since the router bit can start in one of the holes and not have to be plunged into the wood.

[[Image:pf-cutting-4.png|500px]]

A '''3/16"''' bit and a '''5/16"''' bushing/guide offers the best results, which gives a lip of 1/16", a little bigger then for the circular inserts. This second routing can be done without a template, since the insert opening itself can act as the template.

[[Image:pf-cutting-3.png|500px]]

== Cabinet ==

Made from '''3/4"''' plywood, mitre-jointed at the corners. Some of the considerations when designing or building a pinball cabinet include:

* Switch locations
* Side rails
* Lockdown bar mechanism
* Plunger height
* Coindoor size
* Leg mounting brackets
* Speaker bezel

There are typically two cabinet styles, '''Standard''' body and '''Wide''' body.

=== Cabinet Parts ===

If building a ''Williams'' style standard cabinet, '''VirtuaPin''' offers a [http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=9 Ultimate Cab-Builder's Kit] that has all the cabinet-specific parts in one handy kit.

[[Image:cabinet-parts.jpg|500px]]

When cutting your cabinet for the coin door, keep in mind it is installed with four bolts centered on the bottom, sides and top, and that the top hole goes through the lockdown bracket. So both need to line up.

[[Image:coin-door-lockdown.jpg|500px]]

== Electronics ==

Once the physical playfield is constructed, wiring it all together and adding a way to control the devices will be required. There are three basic options - use existing pinball boards, build custom control boards or purchase off-the-shelf units.

=== Existing Boards ===

A popular option is using boards from existing machines and replacing the main controller. For example, the '''Gottlieb System 3''' driver board uses modern MOSFET drivers, supports 32 coils and a 8x10 lamp matrix, and is available for $100 from [http://www.pbresource.com/stargate/gtb-ma1358.jpg Pinball Resource].

[[Image:sys3-driver.png|800px|Schematic for the Gottlieb System 3 Driver board]]

Another well documented system is the original [http://rottendog.us/BPS022.html Bally system].

=== Custom Boards ===

* '''[https://github.com/LonghornEngineer/Pinheck_Pinball_System Pinheck]''' is a system designed by Ben Heck for use in America's Most Haunted and is not currently available in kit form, but you can download the design and have it printed yourself for use in your own games.
* '''[https://github.com/stu/system_shock System Shock]''' is a work-in-progress and currently only the driver board is available for download.

=== Off-the-Shelf Boards ===

* '''[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/index.php/products/p-roc P-ROC]''' (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller) is a well-supported generic platform that is in use by many custom games. It has a dedicated [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/ forum].
* '''[http://fastpinball.com/ FAST Pinball]''' is the new kid on the block that will be bringing out a controller in 2015.
* '''[http://www.millisoft.de/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=32 milliSoft]''' Offers an all-in-one board.

=== Controller PCs ===

Both of those systems require an external PC with USB to provide the signals to control the solenoids and lamps. Currently these small ARM-based boards are the best candidates as they are more powerful than the '''Raspberry Pi''' or '''Arduino''' boards:

* '''[http://ameridroid.com/products/odroid-c1 O-DROID]''' : Quad-core CPU, dual-core GPU, 1GB DDR3 RAM, Gigabit Ethernet , 4x USB2.0 ports.
* '''[http://beagleboard.org/BLACK Beaglebone Black]''': AM335x 1GHz ARM® Cortex-A8, 512MB DDR3 RAM, 4GB 8-bit eMMC on-board flash storage
* '''[http://cubieboard.org/model/cb3/ CubieTruck]''': ARM® Cortex™-A7 Dual-Core, 2GB DDR3, HDMI & VGA 1080P display output, 10M/100M/1G Ethernet, Wifi + BT, SATA 2.0 , NAND+MicroSD or TSD+ MicroSD or 2*MicroSD

=== Power Supplies ===

There are a couple of options when it comes to power.

Use an existing pinball transformer / power supply board. Most pinball transformers will provide various power level taps like '''6.3V''' for the GI and CPU, '''24V''' for basic coils and '''50V''' for flippers and other high-current coils. You'll need the comparable power supply to convert the AC voltages to DC, or create the power supply yourself.

[[Image:power-supply.jpg|300px]]

Or, use a custom supply. [http://www.antekinc.com/ps-4n70-400w-70v-power-supply/ AnTek] makes the '''PS-4N70R5R12''' which provides high current '''70V''' as well as 1A '''5V/12V''' feeds to run the CPU and lights.

Switching power supplies are fine for CPU and some lighting, but computer models won't provide enough current for solenoids. If using a standard PC, there is a useful [http://scottdanesi.com/WP/?page_id=398 control board] for controlling PC power supplies from the external high-current supply.

If you want a less expensive option, search [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=cnc+power+supply&_nkw=cnc+power+supply&_sacat=0 ebay] for '''CNC Power Supplies'''. These will often be 48V high current switching supplies designed for stepper motors and should provide enough power for most coils. However, quality cannot be guaranteed.

[[Image:power-supply-2.jpg]]

There is also the '''[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=18&y=17&lang=en&site=us&keywords=285-1815-ND TDK-Lamda LS150-36]''' available from Digikey which is a '''36V''' switching supply, suitable for most standard coils.

Another very good power supply is a Meanwell 48v psu, eg: SE-600-48 is a 12A 48V (you can dial it to 50v), there are also lower amperage 48v psu's such as the Meanwell NES-350-48 which comes in at 7A, Meanwell is a highly respected brand that make very good power supplies. (Be aware of chinese clones from ebay).

== Wiring ==

As high-current devices, solenoids typically need a minimum of '''18AWG''' wire.

Wiring for lighting and switches can be much thinner since it's pulling less current, particularly if using LEDs, so '''20-22AWG''' wiring is acceptable for low-current uses.

=== Color Coding ===

To aid in troubleshooting and wire layout, pinball companies use '''color-coded''' wire, where it has one color as the main jacket and a second color as a smaller stripe, allowing for many color combinations. For instance, Williams used yellow and white wire for lamps.

Getting a full stock color-coded wire can be very expensive, but the folks at [https://missionpinball.com/ Mission Pinball] came up with a cheaper alternative method of properly color-coding wire using cheap PVC piping.

[[Image:wire-marker-1.jpg|500px]]

Start with purchasing single-color wire in 50' - 100' spools. Get 18 and 20AWG spools for each type of wiring. The more base colors to start, the better.

Next, get some '''oil-based''' markers, which can be found at local hobby stores. One notable brand is Sharpie, and they should be labeled specifically as oil-based paint markers - water-based will scratch or wipe off easily. They will be more expensive but are the only type that work correctly.

Although Mission used a wood block to hold the markers, using a PVC '''T joint''' and drilling a hole through it in the center allows the placement of the paint marker in the T portion of the joint and pressing down on the wire as it passes through works very well.

[[Image:wire-marker-2.png|500px]]

=== Matrix Color Coding ===

Where color-coding is particularly important is in '''Switch''' and '''Lamp Matrix''' layouts. Plan ahead and design your color scheme before starting the construction of the game in a spreadsheet.

Below is an example of a color layout for a custom game. This document can be referenced during construction to make sure the right wire is going to the right switch, lamp or coil, avoiding troublesome issues later during the testing phase.

[[Image:matrix-spreadsheet.png|700px]]

== Displays ==

==== Numeric / Alphanumeric ====

Numeric or Alphanumeric score displays are sometimes chosen even today because of the ease of programming - they display simple scores or lines of text only, so no complicated graphics need to be designed or coded. That means more time to concentrate on gameplay versus interfacing with the player.

==== Gas Plasma ====

The first commercial solid-state displays in common usage were '''Gas Plasma''' displays. They use high voltage to cause a noble gas like neon to glow. Shaping the conductive layers into digits allows the display of multiple numbers or letters.

[[Image:gas-plasma.jpg]]

These types of displays are not only dangerous, due to the high voltages required, they are prone to burn-out or out-gassing, and have been obsolete for many years. Unless re-theming an older game and wanting to re-use existing parts, or trying to maintain a retro look, it is suggested to use '''LED''' replacements.

==== LED Displays ====

[[Image:led-display.jpg]]

The pinball after-market has produced a number of excellent plug-and-play LED display replacements.

* [http://xpinpinball.com/ X-PIN] has 6- and 7-segment displays as well as alphanumerics.
* [http://www.pinscore.com/products/pinball-displays Pinscore] has retrofit kits for older machines.
* [http://www.pinled.de/shop/index.php PinLED] in Europe has a variety of options available.

Additionally, there are many generic LED displays to choose from:

* [http://www.adafruit.com/categories/103 Adafruit] offers a number of LED segment displays with instructions on programming them with various microcontrollers.

=== Dot Matrix ===

[[Image:dmd-closeup.png]]

Modern games make use of either a gas plasma or LED '''Dox Matrix Display''' or '''DMD'''. They work on the same principle as the segment display except they use round pixels in a grid pattern - or ''matrix'' - to display game information.

[[Image:dmd-display.png]]

The complexity with these displays is that the programmer must construct numbers or letters in a graphic format and then push that data to the display. Rather than program "display 300,000", they must use '''bitmap''' fonts and determine screen placement.

However, many [[Programming#Frameworks|programming frameworks]] currently available offer this functionality built in and are an excellent place to start learning about game graphics.

Other options for matrix displays include:

[[Image:small-dmd.png]]

* [http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/75-peggy2 Evil Mad Scientist] offers the Peggy 2 DMD kit for exploring DMD programming.
* [http://www.adafruit.com/categories/326 Adafruit] has a variety of matrix boards with programming instructions included.
* [http://www.embeddedadventures.com/led_matrix_displays_category.html Embedded Adventures] has kits as well.

=== LCD Display ===

The trend for modern games is using '''LCD''' screens in place of DMDs or other older display technologies. Full color with high resolution, the results can be very attractive. However, at this level a game designer essentially becomes a videogame designer. A pinball maker has to wear many hats but it is the rare individual who can do both construction ''and'' handle graphics duties.

There is some discussion of the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1026.0 technical] side of graphical displays on the pinballcontrollers Forum.

== Lighting ==

=== Socket Styles ===

Most lighting is socketed either by a '''bayonet''' or '''wedge''' socket.

[[Image:wedge-base.jpg]]

[[Image:bayonet-base.jpg]]

''Bayonet'' is preferred since the bulb is more likely not to wiggle itself out from vibration during play and transport. While pinball started out with incandescent bulbs, most are moving towards LED for many reasons:

* Less power draw
* More color options
* Lasts longer which means replacing less often
* Less damaging. The constant heat/cool from incandescent bulbs are known to warp plastics and cause flaking on backglasses.

=== Bulb Types ===

The most common sizes are the '''#44/#47 Bayonet''' Base, the '''#555 Wedge''' Base, the '''#89 Bayonet''' and the '''#906 Wedge'''.

[[Image:led-bulbs.jpg]]

One drawback of LED's are that they don't have a ramp-up of brightness like incandescent bulbs, and sometimes they can be bright enough to hurt the eyes. The ramp-up effect can be emulated in software if the lamp controller has enough brightness levels, and diffusion-style bulbs help the brightness issue. They are best used as '''General Illumination'''.

[[Image:coin-taker-bulb.jpg]]

Modern ''Stern'' games going forward use a '''Surface Mount LED''' board that are driven directly which eliminates the need for sockets altogether. The drawback to these are that the boards are directly soldered, so if there are issues, they can't be easily replaced. However, the long life of LEDs makes it unlikely for them to burn out at the rate incandescent lamps do.

For a custom game, a combination of '''Cointaker [http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc?categoryId=211 Premium Frosted]''' or '''Ablaze [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2561 4-LED]''' for GI and the '''FAST Pinball [https://squareup.com/market/fast-pinball-llc/fast-rgb-led-insert RGB LED Insert]''' boards for inserts are a good choice.

=== Lit Flipper Buttons ===

Thanks to newer LED bulbs there is more flexibility to installation than ever before.

For lighting translucent flipper buttons, use a #44 bulb holder and some '''[http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc;jsessionid=7A7CECA77E05B788FA02BB59CAE187C7.m1plqscsfapp05?categoryId=166 44/47 Flex Super Bright]''' lamps from Cointaker.

[[Image:lit-flip.jpg]]

Screw the Socket under the flipper button and out of the way of the Flipper Button Leaf Switch. Position the head of the LED so it is shining slightly up. Don't let the LED head touch the Leaf Switch, or it may wear out the LED or break the LED's leads.

[[Image:lit-flip-2.jpg]]

== Custom Parts ==

Many hobbyists plan on producing games with game-specific features that aren't included in other machines, such as ramps or ball control devices, and thus will have to design and construct mechanisms from scratch. This generally involves metalworking, welding and other more advanced skills, but are not beyond the garage hobbyist.

=== 3D Printing ===

(From Wolfmarsh's [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wolfs-beginner-guide-to-3d-printing-and-pinball Pinside] tutorial)

The big revolution in garage building is 3D printing.

The most popular among home machines is '''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling Fused Deposition Modeling]''' (FDM for short). '''FDM''' is where a thermoplastic filament is slightly melted, extruded through a small nozzle, and deposited in layers to build up the object. Most home printers use this method.

Here is an image that gives the general idea. One is the ''Extruder'', two is the deposited ''Layers'', and three is the ''Build platform''.

[[Image:3d-1.png]]

A second method that is popular with the higher end machines, is '''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering Selective Laser Sintering]''' (SLS). With '''SLS''', a layer of powder is deposited on the build surface, then a laser melts specific areas together. The build surface lowers a fraction of a millimeter, and more powder is deposited. Repeat until the object is built. Here are a couple short videos that shows how SLS works:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=sFpSxX0SzgY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-6ItiCbYFvI

==== Buying a Printer vs Using a Service ====

Most home printers will print using plastic filament and FDM. Services like [http://www.shapeways.com/ Shapeways] can afford higher end printers that offer higher resolution with SLS.

For most of what a garage builder will do, FDM and home printing will cover it. If a full color print or some very fine details are needed, like screw threads, the part can be ordered from ''Shapeways''.

If planning to purchase a home printer, it is recommended to read the [http://makezine.com/volume/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/ Make Guide to 3D printers]. One option is the '''[http://printrbot.com/shop/simple-metal-kit-with-heated-bed/ Printrbot Simple Metal Kit]''' with a Heated Bed upgrade.

[[Image:3d-2.jpg]]

Generally with the lower cost kits, the only real sacrifice is speed and maximum build size.

==== Printing an Object ====

The easiest way to get into 3D printing without having to create models is to download pre-made models. A great source for this is '''[http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]'''. Pinball parts are starting to appear on Thingiverse, so there is a small library already available.

For example, [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608164 here] is a shooter lane designed by Pinside contributor swinks:

[[Image:3d-3.jpg]]

Download an '''.STL file''' of the model to print. It contains the geometry for the object in a language the printing software can understand. Once you have the .STL file, you feed it to a '''Slicing program''' like '''[http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r]'''. A slicing program takes a 3D model and cuts it into the layers needed to feed to the 3D printer.

Here is a quick example of how it works. The model is on the left, and the sliced version on the right.

[[Image:3d-4.jpg]]

Once the object has been sliced, the program will generate a '''G-code''' file, which is the common language that CNC machines use.

A G-code file looks like this:

G1 X52.008 Y54.121 E2.04455
G1 X51.948 Y52.484 E2.13013
G1 X51.969 Y52.373 E2.13608
G1 X52.042 Y50.606 E2.22844
G1 X52.067 Y50.514 E2.23342
G1 X52.258 Y48.934 E2.31658
G1 X52.708 Y48.561 E2.34712
G1 X52.998 Y48.608 E2.36247
G1 X54.421 Y48.632 E2.43686
G1 X54.532 Y48.659 E2.44282

This example is a bunch of G1 commands that tell the machine to move to a specific X position, a specific Y position, and to Extrude a specific amount of filament. The G-code file gets loaded into the '''Printer control software''', and slowly fed to the printer as it prints the object.

The Printrbot example above can be driven using a '''Raspberry PI''', running a special image called [http://octoprint.org/download/ '''OctoPi]'''. It provides a web interface to the printer.

If everything worked as expected, at the end of the print process there is a real, complete object based on the models:

[[Image:3d-5.jpg]]

If things don't go well, it may end up as a bunch of trash plastic. It happens.

[[Image:3d-6.jpg]]

The key is to experiment and find shapes that work well, and to design shapes with the properties of the materials being used - if building brackets to hold coils, the resulting bracket should be thick enough to maintain its shape when the coil fires. The following is an example from ''America's Most Haunted.''

[[Image:3d-7.jpg]]

=== Vacuum-Forming ===

(Sourced from a tutorial by Josh Kugler) [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1338.0]

Doing simple vacuum-forming in your garage is straight-forward. The basic idea is to use a standard oven to heat up a sheet of plastic until it softens, then place it over a pre-made ''form'', using a vacuum to pull the plastic down around the form.

Materials needed to create the vacuum-former include:

* Wood Strips
* Pegboard (2' x 4')
* Plywood
* Shop Vac or similar

Sizes are not critical - the available space in the oven will determine the maximum final size of any pieces formed - so the unit should be built slightly larger than that.

[[Image:vac-form-1.png|500px]]

Create a box using the wood strips and plywood, and caulk it to make it airtight.

[[Image:vac-form-2.png|500px]]

Drill a hole the same size as the intake hose on your vacuum in the side or bottom of the box, and attach the pegboard to the top of the box. When you place your form on top of the box, then the heated plastic, the vacuum will draw the heated plastic down.

Using an old picture frame, or a cheap one from IKEA, trim your plastic sheet to the same size and heat the plastic in the frame in the oven at 375 degrees, until it just starts to droop. Placing the frame and plastic on oven-safe jars will prevent it from touching the racks or surface of the oven if it should droop too far.

In this photo, the extra airholes are blocked by poster board to maintain the airtight seal.

[[Image:vac-form-3.png|500px]]

When creating forms, it is important to remember that it must be possible to cleanly remove the form once the process is complete, so things to avoid include:

* Large vertical surfaces
* Vertical holes

The best form is a pyramid shape, with the smallest details on top and increasing diameters to the base. Consider using a '''releasing agent''' to make removing the form easier - a non-stick spray or lubricant for example.

Creating the form itself can be done using foamcore, wood and bondo, aluminum or steel, depending on your available tools and ability. The smoother your initial form, the clearer your final pieces will be.

=== Welding ===

If you plan on making metal ramps or wireforms, welding will be required.

In order of quality, here are your welding options:

* '''TIG''': ''Tungsten Inert Gas'' arc welding is often employed to make welds on nickel alloys (like stainless steel), magnesium, aluminum, titanium and copper alloys. TIG welds can be made with or without metal fillers, unlike MIG welding, which exclusively employs filler metals to create welds.
** Pros: Pinpoints heat better than MIG welding, allowing for smaller, more precise welding, is a very clean process, creating no spatter whatsoever while a weld is being made.
** Cons: TIG welders are more expensive than MIG welders, and it is a more difficult process to master.
* '''MIG''': ''Metal Inert Gas'' arc welding is most often used with steel. MIG welders do not have to start and stop too often while welding, which allows for long, uninterrupted welds. Gas shields the weld, helping to prevent oxidation and spatter.
** Pros: Relatively clean, creating only a little spatter while welds are made, easier for beginners.
** Cons: Possibility of excessive melt-through and incomplete joint penetration or fusion, can be difficult to create a starting arc, welds are known to leave deposits that are heavily oxidized.
* '''Flux Core Wire Feed''': Arc welding without the shielding gas. Uses flux, similar to soldering, to flow metal.
** Pros: Cheapest form of MIG welding as it doesn't require compressed gas.
** Cons: More likely to produce dirty welds due to lack of shielding.
* '''Brazing''': Can be done with hand tools, but it requires a lot of heat for a long period of time in one spot, which weakens the surrounding steel. This makes it more susceptible to warping and bending due to stress. It can work, but it is not nearly as strong as MIG.

=== Wireforms ===

(From Matthew Bonnema's [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=959.0 Tutorial] on Wireform Fabrication)

One standard convention on modern pinball machines are wireform ramps. They can be made out of '''1/8" steel wire''' which can be purchased at most big box stores. If you don't have access or the skill to use welding equipment, wireform ramps can be fabricated from brass rods and soldered together using a small torch, flux, and solder. Spooky's America's Most Haunted was prototyped this way not only because Ben Heck was already used to soldering, but because brass is a little easier to form than low carbon steel.

==== Spacers ====

Spacers help to keep the proper distance between two rails in a wireform while it is being constructed. They can also be used for welding braces. A fair number of these will be needed - two or three per curve - plus a few oversized ones to allow for the grounding clamp from the welder if you're using one.

To make them, just measure the ball and figure out where you want the ball to ride in the rail, then drill two holes the same size as the stock you are planning on using.

[[Image:wireform-7.jpg|500px]]

Slide the spacers on and match the other wires bends carefully. Make sure to only bend the new wire and not the guide wire.

[[Image:wireform-8.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-9.jpg|500px]]

Use 16 and 20 gauge sheet metal for the spacers - 20 for tight bends and 16 for straightaways. It is easier to slide the 20 gauge down the curves.

If skinning wireforms, put supports on the under side to make them stronger. You can construct ramps by welding sheet metal over the tops of the rails at the ball entry points.

[[Image:wireform-10.jpg|500px]]

==== Loops ====

Loops are useful as entrance and exit points, and cut down can be used as bracing.

Take a piece of 1" PVC pipe and drill a hole centered on the pipe all the way through, roughly the same size of the stock that you intend to use.

[[Image:wireform-1.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-2.jpg|500px]]

Insert the stock all the way through and wrap it around really tightly. It will spring back a little, but if you are using a standard size pinball, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep the tension consistent all the way through the wrap.

[[Image:wireform-3.jpg|500px]]

With an '''Angle Grinder''' with '''Metal Cutting''' disc, cut as close to the initial bend to get as many loops as you can with out getting any of the curve in the cut.

'''''Take caution! This is a dangerous tool!'''''

[[Image:wireform-4.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-5.jpg|500px]]

A simple way to get really nice and easy loops. Bolt cutters, shears, a hacksaw, or wire cutters capable of cutting the wire you are using can also be used as an alternative to the angle grinder, although the loop ends will not be as clean. Free the loop of wire by pulling down on it slightly and clipping off the bent leg that goes through the pipe. Clip or saw each ring off, using the edge of the last ring cut as a guide.

[[Image:wireform-6.jpg|500px]]

Create supports by cutting the rings in half to make the supports. A large '''Side Cutter''' makes cutting the 1/8" steel stock easy and fast - just make sure to hold on to both pieces because they can fly apart. Eyeball guessing for the center on the rings is fine, but for consistency, measure for center.

[[Image:wireform-14.jpg|500px]]

==== Drawings ====

After making spacers and loops, the best starting point is using drawings made in one of the [[Design#Design_Software|drawing tools]] mentioned in the Design section. Match the form to the full-size 2D drawing during construction.

[[Image:wireform-drawing.jpg|500px]]

==== Welding ====

Cut a straight piece of stock, place it on the end of the rail and weld it up with a good tack. This will stop the wireform from twisting out of shape while putting the supports on. Use '''Welding Magnets''' (Usually about $3 each from most hardware stores) to hold the wire in position.

[[Image:wireform-15.jpg|500px]]

Clamp the ground for the welder to one of the jigs - you get a good, dependable circuit and it won't mess you up when you move it.

[[Image:wireform-16.jpg|500px]]

Time to weld!

Only weld with a '''Welding Helmet''' that is tight and won't fall off. If using a '''auto-darkening''' helmet, test its function before starting to weld. It should darken from the spark of a lighter.

[[Image:wireform-17.jpg|500px]]

First test the feed of the welder by pushing the button and watching how smooth the wire comes out. Having a jumpy feed can ruin a weld pretty fast. Then trim the wire to a comfortable length.

If the wire is too long, it will make spatter all over, while if too short, it could miss the joint and/or clog up the tip of the welder.

[[Image:wireform-18.jpg|500px]]

A good weld has clear signs of even heating and penetration through both parent metals (the grayish circle that surrounds the weld).

The bad weld example was done by having the wire overfed or having the wand to far from the surface. This creates a large amount of spatter, which on pinball rails is difficult to clean up due to the sizing.

It also has a distinct noise when done incorrectly - it sounds like bacon popping. A good weld has a consistent buzz sound.

[[Image:wireform-19.jpg|500px]]

After measuring where you want each support to go on the wireform, flip the rail over and set a half ring that was cut earlier across the two rails, using a magnet to hold it in place.

Make sure the ring is lined up with both sides of the rail. It should flow with curves and should be evenly placed.

[[Image:wireform-20.jpg|500px]]

A good welding technique to use is called '''Pushing the puddle'''. It is basically starting on the thicker material and pushing the molten puddle back into the thinner cross material.

==== Top Rail ====

With all the supports are welded, it's time for the top rails.

Take the PVC pipe used to make the rings from earlier and mount it to your workbench. Put the stock where the bend should be under the pipe and pull up, keeping a lot of force at the base.

[[Image:wireform-21.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-22.jpg|500px]]

Take the bent stock and lay it across the rail. Mark where it should get the first welds.

[[Image:wireform-23.jpg|500px]]

Go down the entire length of the wireform, bending the top rail wire by hand as close as possible to the form without welding. Welding and bending one after the other would cause the areas that have been welded to be much softer from the heat of the weld. This is called '''Annealing''', and your top rail bends will not match the cold bended main rail.

[[Image:wireform-24.jpg|500px]]

==== Finishing ====

Every now and then, bring your wireform back to the machine and test fit to make sure it is not getting warped from the heat of the welder.

[[Image:wireform-12.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-13.jpg|500px]]

During the fitting, mark areas for adding supports to hold the wireform.

After all the welding is complete, quickly run the whole wireform on a '''Fine Finishing Wire Wheel''' to clean it up and ready it for powdercoating or plating.

To see these parts powder coated and installed, see the ''DeadPin'' machine in the [[Custom_Games]] section.

=== Devices ===

Skyrim

2015-01-15T01:34:49Z

BloodyCactus: /* Skyrim */

=== Skyrim ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Name
!Title
|-
|[[User:BloodyCactus|Stu George]]
|Project owner, Programmer and Designer
|}

==== Game Summary ====
An Elder Scrolls V : Skyrim themed pinball using a custom built boardset. Current whitewood design is a WPC widebody sized table

Custom board set is open source called 'System Shock', initial design is for

* 32 solenoids / flashers
* 128 direct input switches
* 64 RGB inserts
* LCD + Stereo sound with Sub (graphics output utilised via RaspberryPI).

==== External Links ====
[http://mega-tokyo.com/blog/index.php/site/category/skyrim HomePage]

[https://github.com/stu/system_shock System Shock control system]

==== Finished Photos ====

==== Construction Photos ====

User:BloodyCactus

2015-01-15T01:33:13Z

BloodyCactus: Created page with "=== BloodyCactus === ==== About ==== I'm Stu, my homepage is at http://mega-tokyo.com I'm building a Skyrim pinball machine as well as building an open source control boa..."

=== BloodyCactus ===

==== About ====
I'm Stu, my homepage is at http://mega-tokyo.com I'm building a [[Skyrim]] pinball machine as well as building an open source control board system for other DIY pins called [[System Shock]]

==== TODO List ====
* expand on the electrical stuff
* HV
* The interlock switch
* PWM'ing solenoids
* LED's

Construction

2015-01-13T23:46:07Z

BloodyCactus: /* Standard Playfield Sizes */ Referenced existing table to remove duplication

Once a preliminary [[Design|design]] is complete, the next step is to create an initial prototype, known in the industry as a '''Whitewood'''.

== Cabinet ==

Made from '''3/4"''' plywood, mitre-jointed at the corners. Some of the considerations when designing or building a pinball cabinet include:

* Switch locations
* Side rails
* Lockdown bar mechanism
* Plunger height
* Coindoor size
* Leg mounting brackets
* Speaker bezel

There are typically two cabinet styles, '''Standard''' body and '''Wide''' body.

=== Cabinet Parts ===

If building a ''Williams'' style standard cabinet, '''VirtuaPin''' offers a [http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=9 Ultimate Cab-Builder's Kit] that has all the cabinet-specific parts in one handy kit.

[[Image:cabinet-parts.jpg|500px]]

When cutting your cabinet for the coin door, keep in mind it is installed with four bolts centered on the bottom, sides and top, and that the top hole goes through the lockdown bracket. So both need to line up.

[[Image:coin-door-lockdown.jpg|500px]]

== Whitewood ==

The origin of the term ''whitewood'' is related to the material of the playfield, which is traditionally '''White Maple'''. The first iteration of a game will not have any artwork or lighting as the purpose is to test the layout, flipper shots and the overall ''feel'' of the design to confirm it plays as expected.

The second iteration of the whitewood - generally a different playfield rather than the existing one re-cut - will include inserts, lighting and any ramps or playfield devices needed for the complete game. This version of the prototype is used to create the first iteration of the ruleset and special effects.

Here is an unpopulated whitewood for Cirqus Voltaire, which is a later iteration that does have inserts for lighting, but not yet having artwork.

[[Image:cv-whitewood.png]]

Here is a populated whitewood for AC/DC, which does not have the later sub-playfield so is much earlier in the design process.

[[Image:acdc-whitewood.png]]

Typically a playfield is made of 9-ply birch plywood, '''17/32"''' thick with the additional 1/32" allowing for the inserts to be sanded flush. A number of European manufacturers used plastic playfields, and some domestic companies experimented with them in the 1970's, but the vast majority use plywood.

=== Standard Playfield Sizes ===

'' see [[Playfield Sizes]] ''

=== Cutting ===

(Sourced from a tutorial by Josh Kugler) [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=843.0]

Before proceeding with any cutting, a completed playfield drawing is needed, to be used as a template. For details on that portion of the process, visit the [[Design]] section of the wiki. One tip that will help later is to add centering holes to all the drilled inserts to aid in proper placement.

Once complete, take the file to a ''FedexOffice'' or similar '''Printing House''' and have it printed full size. Use '''3M Spray adhesive''' to glue the print to your playfield surface. This print acts as your drilling and cutting template.

[[Image:pf-cutting-1.png|500px]]

Use two '''Forstner bits''' for each insert. The first is the wider opening that is the same size as the insert, drilled to the appropriate depth of the insert which is typically '''1/4"'''. The second bit is '''1/16"''' smaller can then be used to drill the through hole. This leaves a '''1/32"''' lip for the insert to sit on.

Since the Forstner bit has a centering point there is a natural centering hole for the second bit, making it easier to get it lined up right. The cleanest technique is to drill just short of going through, and then complete the hole from the other side using a standard cordless drill.

[[Image:pf-cutting-2.png|500px]]

Don’t do the three steps in order per hole, but the first step for a bunch of holes, then the second and third.

For creating a non-circular insert, use a router with a template and '''Bushing guide''' - a router bit with a small roller bearing on it runs along your guide, while the cutting head runs in the playfield to cut the hole to the size of the template. Creating the template is the hard part, but once you have that, it is relatively easy to route multiple holes for the inserts. This is a three step process similar to the circular inserts.

As with the circular inserts, first create the ''wider'' opening. This is done by clamping the template to the playfield and then routing the wider opening using the bearing bit.

Drill a couple of holes in the center of the insert so there is less to route. This is also helpful when doing the second step, of cutting out the inner opening, that is slightly smaller then the insert opening, since the router bit can start in one of the holes and not have to be plunged into the wood.

[[Image:pf-cutting-4.png|500px]]

A '''3/16"''' bit and a '''5/16"''' bushing/guide offers the best results, which gives a lip of 1/16", a little bigger then for the circular inserts. This second routing can be done without a template, since the insert opening itself can act as the template.

[[Image:pf-cutting-3.png|500px]]

== Tools ==

=== Specialty Tools ===

These are tools that are specific to pinball.

* Pinbits has a [http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=59 Pop Bumper Drilling Template] to use when drilling the playfield for pops. Instructions for use [http://www.iobium.com/pop_bumper_drilling_template.htm here].

=== Metalworking Tools ===

[[Image:tools-metal.jpg|700px]]

* A few different colored sharpies for marking cuts and bends
* 4 1/2" angle grinder for cutting and grinding
* Flap disc grinding pads of multiple grits
* Metal cutting blades for a grinder
* Safety glasses and gloves
* A bunch of different size C-clamps - at least one large and two big enough to clamp large items
* A Square
* Measuring tape
* Different sized ballpein hammers
* Drill bits for steel
* Center punch
* Blow Torch - MAP Gas works best, Propane as a second choice

A '''Metal Brake''' is useful for bending sheet steel to make brackets.

[[Image:metal-brake.jpg|500px]]

The above example is available from [http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch-metal-brake-with-stand-91012.html Harbor Freight].

If space is at a premium, there are smaller [http://www.micromark.com/mini-metal-shear-and-brake,9645.html tabletop] versions as well.

[[Image:home-brake.jpg]]

If cost is an issue, you can [http://toolguyd.com/diy-sheet-metal-bending-brake/ make your own] from common hardware store parts.

=== Woodworking Tools ===

Beyond the standard [http://www.pinrestore.com/Tools.html hand tools] needed to create a machine from scratch, here are some additional tools:

[[Image:router.png]]

A '''Hand Router''' for creating insert and device holes in the playfield.

[[Image:jigsaw.png]]

A '''Table Jigsaw''' for cutting playfield plastics, or plexi for your initial whitewood inserts.

[[Image:sander.png]]

A '''Hand Sander''' to level the playfield. You should also have sand paper in various grits ranging from 180 up to 320, plus finer grits for final polishing.

[[Image:forstner-bit.png]]]

'''Forstner bits''' for drilling clean holes. Easier than using the router.

=== Cabinet Tools ===

[[Image:table-router.png]]

For cabinet building, a table router with '''Locking Mitre''' bits.

[[Image:mitre-bit.png]]

It is a bit that creates a locking edge between cabinet corners.

=== Advanced Tools ===

Although not strictly needed for hobbyists, the following are nice-to-have if you have some deep pockets, and they make whitewood production much faster and far more consistent. Rather than purchasing these, the best option is to find a local '''[http://www.techshop.ws/locations.html Maker Space]''' that has the equipment available for rent or through a monthly membership.

==== CNC ====

[[Image: cnc-router.png]]

A large-format CNC machine can take drawings from AutoCAD or Inkscape to cut a playfield exactly to the design, which will be much more accurate than one done by hand with a router.

Some reasonably-priced options include:

* [http://www.shopbottools.com/mProducts/prSstandard.htm ShopBOT]
* [http://mechmate.com/ MechMate]
* [http://www.generalcnc.ca/home GeneralCNC]

For simpler tasks there are cheaper alternatives:

* [https://www.inventables.com/technologies/desktop-3d-carving-cnc-mill-kit-shapeoko-2 Shapeoko] uses a Dremel as the cutting tool.

==== Laser Cutters ====

[[Image: laser-cutter.png]]

Using a laser cutter on plastics means fast prototyping of playfield plastics, and most cutters will also do engraving for interesting effects. Really high powered units will cut wood as well.

Some examples include [https://www.epiloglaser.com/ Epilog] and [http://www.ulsinc.com/ Universal].

A lower cost option is the [http://fslaser.com/products/lasers/hobby-lasers/newhobby Full Spectrum Laser].

== Materials ==

A rundown of the various materials needed to produce a whitewood.

=== Plywood ===

Commercial pinball machines use a specially sourced type of plywood that is not available from big box stores and generally not even specialty wood suppliers.

The thickness of a raw playfield is '''17/32"''', which is then sanded on top with inserts installed to a finished size of '''1/2"'''. Each side is a full face of hard '''Maple''' with five plys in-between, not a thin veneer to allow for this sanding. The following photo illustrates the full seven plys:

[[Image:plywood.png]]

The type of [http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/specialty-panels/hardwood-plywood/1-2-x-4-x-8-baltic-birch-plywood/p-1479673-c-13334.htm plywood] available at a big box store will have a thin ply on both sides, generally of softer '''Baltic Birch''', and will not have the surface area to allow a full 1/32" sanding to level the surface and inserts together.

For hobbyists, the best option is '''Cabinet Grade''' plywood, preferably from a lumber yard, with a minimum of seven plys but a preference for nine - the more plys, the more stable and flat. This type of plywood will have a thicker top and bottom ply suitable for sanding. It will generally be the softer birch but for one-off games, it should prove acceptable.

[[Image:cabinet-grade.png]]

Another affordable option for whitewoods is '''Medium Density Fibreboard'''. Typically sold as '''MDF''', it is also available in large quantities. The drawback for MDF is that it has poor flexibility and does not allow for easy removal and re-installation of screwed in parts.

=== Sheetmetal ===

For ramps, ball guides and various other uses.

[http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-sheets/=ve62im Sheet Steel] at McMaster-Carr.

[http://www.grainger.com/category/stainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock/stainless-steel/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c22?bc=y#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fstainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock%2Fstainless-steel%2Fraw-materials%2Fecatalog%2FN-c22Z1z0o8uzZ1z0nmq0 Sheet Steel] including stainless at Grainger.

=== Inserts ===

For a whitewood, the easiest option is to use [http://www.eplastics.com/PLEXIGLASS-ACRYCLR0-060FM24X48 thin plexiglass] for inserts as it is readily available and fairly easy to cut to size with a table jigsaw. This allows for skipping the final sanding stage if using 1/2" plywood instead of 17/32".

Real pinball inserts are available in various sizes and colors from a number of suppliers including [http://www.pbresource.com/playfins.html Pinball Resource] and [http://www.marcospec.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=inserts Marco Specialities].

Some examples of the inserts available:

[[Image:inserts.png]]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-1FGS 1″ round green star #PI-1FGS]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-34RO 3/4″ round Orange #PI-34RO]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-58RW 5/8″ round White opaque #PI-58RW]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-112TGT 1-1/2″ triangle Green #PI-112TGT]

[http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-901 Rollover star button housing red 3A-7537 #C-901]

Standard depth of inserts are '''1/4"''' and they are designed to be sanded flat after installation - there will be a number cast into the top of the part and the top edge will be slightly raised around the radius by approximately 1/32". Thus, when creating insert holes, you must drill slightly less than 1/4" deep to allow for the sanding.

=== Playfield Parts ===

The best source of parts like switch targets, pop bumpers, posts and other miscellaneous bits is from parts machines - picking up a used machine with a worn playfield and just cleaning up those parts will be ten times cheaper than buying all new parts.

However, given the increasing value of even older solid-state machines, finding games to part out is becoming increasingly difficult, so the only option may be purchasing new.

== Electronics ==

Once the physical playfield is constructed, wiring it all together and adding a way to control the devices will be required. There are three basic options - use existing pinball boards, build custom control boards or purchase off-the-shelf units.

=== Existing Boards ===

A popular option is using boards from existing machines and replacing the main controller. For example, the '''Gottlieb System 3''' driver board uses modern MOSFET drivers, supports 32 coils and a 8x10 lamp matrix, and is available for $100 from [http://www.pbresource.com/stargate/gtb-ma1358.jpg Pinball Resource].

[[Image:sys3-driver.png|800px|Schematic for the Gottlieb System 3 Driver board]]

Another well documented system is the original [http://rottendog.us/BPS022.html Bally system].

=== Custom Boards ===

* '''[https://github.com/LonghornEngineer/Pinheck_Pinball_System Pinheck]''' is a system designed by Ben Heck for use in America's Most Haunted and is not currently available in kit form, but you can download the design and have it printed yourself for use in your own games.
* '''[https://github.com/stu/system_shock System Shock]''' is a work-in-progress and currently only the driver board is available for download.

=== Off-the-Shelf Boards ===

* '''[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/index.php/products/p-roc P-ROC]''' (Pinball - Remote Operations Controller) is a well-supported generic platform that is in use by many custom games. It has a dedicated [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/ forum].
* '''[http://fastpinball.com/ FAST Pinball]''' is the new kid on the block that will be bringing out a controller in 2015.

Both of those systems require an external PC with USB to provide the signals to control the solenoids and lamps. Currently these small ARM-based boards are the best candidates as they are more powerful than the '''Raspberry Pi''' or '''Arduino''' boards:

* '''[http://ameridroid.com/products/odroid-c1 O-DROID]''' : Quad-core CPU, dual-core GPU, 1GB DDR3 RAM, Gigabit Ethernet , 4x USB2.0 ports.
* '''[http://beagleboard.org/BLACK Beaglebone Black]''': AM335x 1GHz ARM® Cortex-A8, 512MB DDR3 RAM, 4GB 8-bit eMMC on-board flash storage

=== Power Supplies ===

There are a couple of options when it comes to power.

Use an existing pinball transformer / power supply board. Most pinball transformers will provide various power level taps like '''6.3V''' for the GI and CPU, '''24V''' for basic coils and '''50V''' for flippers and other high-current coils. You'll need the comparable power supply to convert the AC voltages to DC, or create the power supply yourself.

[[Image:power-supply.jpg|300px]]

Or, use a custom supply. [http://www.antekinc.com/ps-4n70-400w-70v-power-supply/ AnTek] makes the '''PS-4N70R5R12''' which provides high current '''70V''' as well as 1A '''5V/12V''' feeds to run the CPU and lights.

Switching power supplies are fine for CPU and some lighting, but computer models won't provide enough current for solenoids.

== Wiring ==

As high-current devices, solenoids typically need a minimum of '''18AWG''' wire.

Wiring for lighting and switches can be much thinner since it's pulling less current, particularly if using LEDs, so '''20-22AWG''' wiring is acceptable for low-current uses.

=== Color Coding ===

To aid in troubleshooting and wire layout, pinball companies use '''color-coded''' wire, where it has one color as the main jacket and a second color as a smaller stripe, allowing for many color combinations. For instance, Williams used yellow and white wire for lamps.

Getting a full stock color-coded wire can be very expensive, but the folks at [https://missionpinball.com/ Mission Pinball] came up with a cheaper alternative method of properly color-coding wire using cheap PVC piping.

[[Image:wire-marker-1.jpg|500px]]

Start with purchasing single-color wire in 50' - 100' spools. Get 18 and 20AWG spools for each type of wiring. The more base colors to start, the better.

Next, get some '''oil-based''' markers, which can be found at local hobby stores. One notable brand is Sharpie, and they should be labeled specifically as oil-based paint markers - water-based will scratch or wipe off easily. They will be more expensive but are the only type that work correctly.

Although Mission used a wood block to hold the markers, using a PVC '''T joint''' and drilling a hole through it in the center allows the placement of the paint marker in the T portion of the joint and pressing down on the wire as it passes through works very well.

[[Image:wire-marker-2.png|500px]]

=== Matrix Color Coding ===

Where color-coding is particularly important is in '''Switch''' and '''Lamp Matrix''' layouts. Plan ahead and design your color scheme before starting the construction of the game in a spreadsheet.

Below is an example of a color layout for a custom game. This document can be referenced during construction to make sure the right wire is going to the right switch, lamp or coil, avoiding troublesome issues later during the testing phase.

[[Image:matrix-spreadsheet.png|700px]]

== Displays ==

==== Numeric / Alphanumeric ====

Numeric or Alphanumeric score displays are sometimes chosen even today because of the ease of programming - they display simple scores or lines of text only, so no complicated graphics need to be designed or coded. That means more time to concentrate on gameplay versus interfacing with the player.

==== Gas Plasma ====

The first commercial solid-state displays in common usage were '''Gas Plasma''' displays. They use high voltage to cause a noble gas like neon to glow. Shaping the conductive layers into digits allows the display of multiple numbers or letters.

[[Image:gas-plasma.jpg]]

These types of displays are not only dangerous, due to the high voltages required, they are prone to burn-out or out-gassing, and have been obsolete for many years. Unless re-theming an older game and wanting to re-use existing parts, or trying to maintain a retro look, it is suggested to use '''LED''' replacements.

==== LED Displays ====

[[Image:led-display.jpg]]

The pinball after-market has produced a number of excellent plug-and-play LED display replacements.

* [http://xpinpinball.com/ X-PIN] has 6- and 7-segment displays as well as alphanumerics.
* [http://www.pinscore.com/products/pinball-displays Pinscore] has retrofit kits for older machines.
* [http://www.pinled.de/shop/index.php PinLED] in Europe has a variety of options available.

Additionally, there are many generic LED displays to choose from:

* [http://www.adafruit.com/categories/103 Adafruit] offers a number of LED segment displays with instructions on programming them with various microcontrollers.

=== Dot Matrix ===

[[Image:dmd-closeup.png]]

Modern games make use of either a gas plasma or LED '''Dox Matrix Display''' or '''DMD'''. They work on the same principle as the segment display except they use round pixels in a grid pattern - or ''matrix'' - to display game information.

[[Image:dmd-display.png]]

The complexity with these displays is that the programmer must construct numbers or letters in a graphic format and then push that data to the display. Rather than program "display 300,000", they must use '''bitmap''' fonts and determine screen placement.

However, many [[Programming#Frameworks|programming frameworks]] currently available offer this functionality built in and are an excellent place to start learning about game graphics.

Other options for matrix displays include:

[[Image:small-dmd.png]]

* [http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/75-peggy2 Evil Mad Scientist] offers the Peggy 2 DMD kit for exploring DMD programming.
* [http://www.adafruit.com/categories/326 Adafruit] has a variety of matrix boards with programming instructions included.
* [http://www.embeddedadventures.com/led_matrix_displays_category.html Embedded Adventures] has kits as well.

=== LCD Display ===

The trend for modern games is using '''LCD''' screens in place of DMDs or other older display technologies. Full color with high resolution, the results can be very attractive. However, at this level a game designer essentially becomes a videogame designer. A pinball maker has to wear many hats but it is the rare individual who can do both construction ''and'' handle graphics duties.

There is some discussion of the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1026.0 technical] side of graphical displays on the pinballcontrollers Forum.

== Lighting ==

[[Image:led-bulbs.jpg]]

Most lighting is socketed either by a '''bayonet''' or '''wedge''' socket.

[[Image:wedge-base.jpg]]

[[Image:bayonet-base.jpg]]

The most common sizes are the '''#44/#47 Bayonet''' Base, the '''#555 Wedge''' Base, the '''#89 Bayonet''' and the '''#906 Wedge'''.

''Bayonet'' is preferred since the bulb is more likely not to wiggle itself out from vibration during play and transport. While pinball started out with incandescent bulbs, most are moving towards LED for many reasons:

* Less power draw
* More color options
* Lasts longer which means replacing less often
* Less damaging. The constant heat/cool from incandescent bulbs are known to warp plastics and cause flaking on backglasses.

One drawback of LED's are that they don't have a ramp-up of brightness like incandescent bulbs, and sometimes they can be bright enough to hurt the eyes. The ramp-up effect can be emulated in software if the lamp controller has enough brightness levels, and diffusion-style bulbs help the brightness issue. They are best used as '''General Illumination'''.

[[Image:coin-taker-bulb.jpg]]

Modern ''Stern'' games going forward use a '''Surface Mount LED''' board that are driven directly which eliminates the need for sockets altogether. The drawback to these are that the boards are directly soldered, so if there are issues, they can't be easily replaced. However, the long life of LEDs makes it unlikely for them to burn out at the rate incandescent lamps do.

For a custom game, a combination of '''Cointaker [http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc?categoryId=211 Premium Frosted]''' or '''Ablaze [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2561 4-LED]''' for GI and the '''FAST Pinball [https://squareup.com/market/fast-pinball-llc/fast-rgb-led-insert RGB LED Insert]''' boards for inserts are a good choice.

== Custom Parts ==

Many hobbyists plan on producing games with game-specific features that aren't included in other machines, such as ramps or ball control devices, and thus will have to design and construct mechanisms from scratch. This generally involves metalworking, welding and other more advanced skills, but are not beyond the garage hobbyist.

=== Welding Types ===

If you plan on making metal ramps or wireforms, welding will be required.

In order of quality, here are your welding options:

* '''TIG''': ''Tungsten Inert Gas'' arc welding is often employed to make welds on nickel alloys (like stainless steel), magnesium, aluminum, titanium and copper alloys. TIG welds can be made with or without metal fillers, unlike MIG welding, which exclusively employs filler metals to create welds.
** Pros: Pinpoints heat better than MIG welding, allowing for smaller, more precise welding, is a very clean process, creating no spatter whatsoever while a weld is being made.
** Cons: TIG welders are more expensive than MIG welders, and it is a more difficult process to master.
* '''MIG''': ''Metal Inert Gas'' arc welding is most often used with steel. MIG welders do not have to start and stop too often while welding, which allows for long, uninterrupted welds. Gas shields the weld, helping to prevent oxidation and spatter.
** Pros: Relatively clean, creating only a little spatter while welds are made, easier for beginners.
** Cons: Possibility of excessive melt-through and incomplete joint penetration or fusion, can be difficult to create a starting arc, welds are known to leave deposits that are heavily oxidized.
* '''Flux Core Wire Feed''': Arc welding without the shielding gas. Uses flux, similar to soldering, to flow metal.
** Pros: Cheapest form of MIG welding as it doesn't require compressed gas.
** Cons: More likely to produce dirty welds due to lack of shielding.
* '''Brazing''': Can be done with hand tools, but it requires a lot of heat for a long period of time in one spot, which weakens the surrounding steel. This makes it more susceptible to warping and bending due to stress. It can work, but it is not nearly as strong as MIG.

=== Ramps and Multi-Levels ===

Sometimes a 2nd-tier playfield set apart from the main playfield is added in the back. A lower playfield is usually mounted underneath the playfield in the central area.

==== Vacuum-Forming ====

(Sourced from a tutorial by Josh Kugler) [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1338.0]

Doing simple vacuum-forming in your garage is straight-forward. The basic idea is to use a standard oven to heat up a sheet of plastic until it softens, then place it over a pre-made ''form'', using a vacuum to pull the plastic down around the form.

Materials needed to create the vacuum-former include:

* Wood Strips
* Pegboard (2' x 4')
* Plywood
* Shop Vac or similar

Sizes are not critical - the available space in the oven will determine the maximum final size of any pieces formed - so the unit should be built slightly larger than that.

[[Image:vac-form-1.png|500px]]

Create a box using the wood strips and plywood, and caulk it to make it airtight.

[[Image:vac-form-2.png|500px]]

Drill a hole the same size as the intake hose on your vacuum in the side or bottom of the box, and attach the pegboard to the top of the box. When you place your form on top of the box, then the heated plastic, the vacuum will draw the heated plastic down.

Using an old picture frame, or a cheap one from IKEA, trim your plastic sheet to the same size and heat the plastic in the frame in the oven at 375 degrees, until it just starts to droop. Placing the frame and plastic on oven-safe jars will prevent it from touching the racks or surface of the oven if it should droop too far.

In this photo, the extra airholes are blocked by poster board to maintain the airtight seal.

[[Image:vac-form-3.png|500px]]

When creating forms, it is important to remember that it must be possible to cleanly remove the form once the process is complete, so things to avoid include:

* Large vertical surfaces
* Vertical holes

The best form is a pyramid shape, with the smallest details on top and increasing diameters to the base. Consider using a '''releasing agent''' to make removing the form easier - a non-stick spray or lubricant for example.

Creating the form itself can be done using foamcore, wood and bondo, aluminum or steel, depending on your available tools and ability. The smoother your initial form, the clearer your final pieces will be.

=== Wireforms ===

(From Matthew Bonnema's [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=959.0 Tutorial] on Wireform Fabrication)

One standard convention on modern pinball machines are wireform ramps. They can be made out of '''1/8" steel wire''' which can be purchased at most big box stores. If you don't have access or the skill to use welding equipment, wireform ramps can be fabricated from brass rods and soldered together using a small torch, flux, and solder. Spooky's America's Most Haunted was prototyped this way not only because Ben Heck was already used to soldering, but because brass is a little easier to form than low carbon steel.

==== Spacers ====

Spacers help to keep the proper distance between two rails in a wireform while it is being constructed. They can also be used for welding braces. A fair number of these will be needed - two or three per curve - plus a few oversized ones to allow for the grounding clamp from the welder if you're using one.

To make them, just measure the ball and figure out where you want the ball to ride in the rail, then drill two holes the same size as the stock you are planning on using.

[[Image:wireform-7.jpg|500px]]

Slide the spacers on and match the other wires bends carefully. Make sure to only bend the new wire and not the guide wire.

[[Image:wireform-8.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-9.jpg|500px]]

Use 16 and 20 gauge sheet metal for the spacers - 20 for tight bends and 16 for straightaways. It is easier to slide the 20 gauge down the curves.

If skinning wireforms, put supports on the under side to make them stronger. You can construct ramps by welding sheet metal over the tops of the rails at the ball entry points.

[[Image:wireform-10.jpg|500px]]

==== Loops ====

Loops are useful as entrance and exit points, and cut down can be used as bracing.

Take a piece of 1" PVC pipe and drill a hole centered on the pipe all the way through, roughly the same size of the stock that you intend to use.

[[Image:wireform-1.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-2.jpg|500px]]

Insert the stock all the way through and wrap it around really tightly. It will spring back a little, but if you are using a standard size pinball, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep the tension consistent all the way through the wrap.

[[Image:wireform-3.jpg|500px]]

With an '''Angle Grinder''' with '''Metal Cutting''' disc, cut as close to the initial bend to get as many loops as you can with out getting any of the curve in the cut.

'''''Take caution! This is a dangerous tool!'''''

[[Image:wireform-4.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-5.jpg|500px]]

A simple way to get really nice and easy loops. Bolt cutters, shears, a hacksaw, or wire cutters capable of cutting the wire you are using can also be used as an alternative to the angle grinder, although the loop ends will not be as clean. Free the loop of wire by pulling down on it slightly and clipping off the bent leg that goes through the pipe. Clip or saw each ring off, using the edge of the last ring cut as a guide.

[[Image:wireform-6.jpg|500px]]

Create supports by cutting the rings in half to make the supports. A large '''Side Cutter''' makes cutting the 1/8" steel stock easy and fast - just make sure to hold on to both pieces because they can fly apart. Eyeball guessing for the center on the rings is fine, but for consistency, measure for center.

[[Image:wireform-14.jpg|500px]]

==== Drawings ====

After making spacers and loops, the best starting point is using drawings made in one of the [[Design#Design_Software|drawing tools]] mentioned in the Design section. Match the form to the full-size 2D drawing during construction.

[[Image:wireform-drawing.jpg|500px]]

==== Welding ====

Cut a straight piece of stock, place it on the end of the rail and weld it up with a good tack. This will stop the wireform from twisting out of shape while putting the supports on. Use '''Welding Magnets''' (Usually about $3 each from most hardware stores) to hold the wire in position.

[[Image:wireform-15.jpg|500px]]

Clamp the ground for the welder to one of the jigs - you get a good, dependable circuit and it won't mess you up when you move it.

[[Image:wireform-16.jpg|500px]]

Time to weld!

Only weld with a '''Welding Helmet''' that is tight and won't fall off. If using a '''auto-darkening''' helmet, test its function before starting to weld. It should darken from the spark of a lighter.

[[Image:wireform-17.jpg|500px]]

First test the feed of the welder by pushing the button and watching how smooth the wire comes out. Having a jumpy feed can ruin a weld pretty fast. Then trim the wire to a comfortable length.

If the wire is too long, it will make spatter all over, while if too short, it could miss the joint and/or clog up the tip of the welder.

[[Image:wireform-18.jpg|500px]]

A good weld has clear signs of even heating and penetration through both parent metals (the grayish circle that surrounds the weld).

The bad weld example was done by having the wire overfed or having the wand to far from the surface. This creates a large amount of spatter, which on pinball rails is difficult to clean up due to the sizing.

It also has a distinct noise when done incorrectly - it sounds like bacon popping. A good weld has a consistent buzz sound.

[[Image:wireform-19.jpg|500px]]

After measuring where you want each support to go on the wireform, flip the rail over and set a half ring that was cut earlier across the two rails, using a magnet to hold it in place.

Make sure the ring is lined up with both sides of the rail. It should flow with curves and should be evenly placed.

[[Image:wireform-20.jpg|500px]]

A good welding technique to use is called '''Pushing the puddle'''. It is basically starting on the thicker material and pushing the molten puddle back into the thinner cross material.

==== Top Rail ====

With all the supports are welded, it's time for the top rails.

Take the PVC pipe used to make the rings from earlier and mount it to your workbench. Put the stock where the bend should be under the pipe and pull up, keeping a lot of force at the base.

[[Image:wireform-21.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-22.jpg|500px]]

Take the bent stock and lay it across the rail. Mark where it should get the first welds.

[[Image:wireform-23.jpg|500px]]

Go down the entire length of the wireform, bending the top rail wire by hand as close as possible to the form without welding. Welding and bending one after the other would cause the areas that have been welded to be much softer from the heat of the weld. This is called '''Annealing''', and your top rail bends will not match the cold bended main rail.

[[Image:wireform-24.jpg|500px]]

==== Finishing ====

Every now and then, bring your wireform back to the machine and test fit to make sure it is not getting warped from the heat of the welder.

[[Image:wireform-12.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:wireform-13.jpg|500px]]

During the fitting, mark areas for adding supports to hold the wireform.

After all the welding is complete, quickly run the whole wireform on a '''Fine Finishing Wire Wheel''' to clean it up and ready it for powdercoating or plating.

To see these parts powder coated and installed, see the ''DeadPin'' machine in the [[Custom_Games]] section.

=== Devices ===

Design

2015-01-13T23:45:33Z

BloodyCactus: /* Playfield Sizes */

Before anything else, you need to have a design you want to build.

== Pinball Basics ==

Users of this site are assumed to have a basic understanding of what a pinball machine is and of the basic operation and maintenance of them, but for the purposes of designing one, a pinball machine generally consists of at least a minimum of a flat surface (generally plywood) for a steel ball to roll on, passive devicesthat interact with the ball such as switches or rubbers, machine-controlled devices that interact with the ball such as pop bumpers or kickers, and user-controlled devices to direct the ball, such as flippers.

Beyond that, the sky is the limit in terms of ideas and creativity. There are no rules that say you must use the "Two Flippers with In-lanes" standard that has been the convention since the 1960's. As a starting point, there are some standard layouts you can work from.

=== Layouts ===

If you need some inspiration, the modern machine layouts fall into two categories: '''Flow''' and '''Stop-and-Go'''.

==== Flow ====

For a game to be described as a '''Flow''' machine, the amount of time the ball is fully stopped without player interaction is kept at a bare minimum. This means outer loops that bring the ball back to the flippers quickly, allowing for looping, continuous shots.

An example of this type of game would be ''Attack From Mars''', 1995 machine produced by WMS:

[[Image:afm-playfield.png]]

The game uses a '''Fan''' layout where all shots are direct lines from the flippers that mostly loop back to the flippers, allowing for quick and continuous ball action.

==== Stop and Go ====

For '''Stop and Go''' games, flipper shots can loop back to the flippers but many of the shots will involve scoops, ball traps and other devices that interrupt the flow of the ball, or cause delayed re-directions based on game rules.

An example of this type of game would be ''Twilight Zone'', a 1993 machine also produced by WMS:

[[Image:tz-playfield.png]]

In this game, the majority of shots result in a ball stop or re-direction to a path not directly in line with the flippers.

It is up to the designer which style of pinball play they prefer when designing your game, and generally every designer has their own styles that are recognizable to regular players.

=== Themes ===

All pinball machines have a theme to help differentiate one machine from other machines or to attract players. Whether it is an original theme or based on an existing property, the theme you choose should help to inform the design of the game itself in some manner.

For a game to be used exclusively in a home, as most custom games will be, makers are free to choose whatever theme they find most appealing. If the game is intended for possible production for others, using an original theme is suggested to avoid any copyright or licensing issues.

=== Limitations ===

The important thing to remember when creating a pinball machine is that there are a number of key limitations that have to be understood and incorporated into a design to allow it to be physically produced.

==== Gravity ====

Gravity only goes down. That means that a ball will only roll downhill unless there is a powered method of moving it otherwise. A designer has to be aware of all the possible ball traps where a ball might be prevented from rolling downwards - an example might be a ramp that drops a ball behind a post, or a ball guide that is not at a steep enough angle to allow the ball to roll without nudging the machine.

An example of a ball hangup, this ball is prevented from rolling by the decorative plastic covering above a hole where it ended up after the ball became airborne:

[[Image:ball-hangup.png]]

These sort of hangups usually show up in the whitewood stage but can often be predicted and avoided during design stage.

==== Power ====

In the US and Canada, a single wall plug is restricted to between 15 - 20amps of rated power at 60hz. However, since plugs typically don't exceed 80% of it's rated power, it's actually limited to between 12A-16A. Most pinballs don't draw more than 4 peak amps at any time, so this is not usually an issue unless you have multiple pinball machines running on the same circuit. This should be considered the maximum available power to a game. Although at first glance it seems absurd that a design might exceed this amount, having multiple high current devices like coils, flash lamps, high power subwoofers and other power-hungry devices can eat up that power quickly. A design should take that into consideration. It is also important to note that 120 input voltage has a plus or minus 5%, so your input can be between 114-126V.

==== Playfield Sizes ====

A game usually has to fit into a room, or fit through a door, so space is an important consideration. For example, here is a list of playfield sizes used by the manufacturers over the years, which is useful if re-purposing an existing cabinet for a custom game:

'' see [[Playfield Sizes]] ''

==== Standard vs Widebody ====

A rule of thumb is that the larger the playfield, the slower the game plays as the ball has further to travel between devices. As such, standard sized games will subjectively appear to play faster than widebody games, while a widebody game allows more room for devices and other ball interaction mechanisms.

==== Fitment ====

Ultimately, all the devices need to sit together on the playfield, both above and below, so a design must take that into consideration as well, especially when using existing standard mechanisms from current manufacturers such as flipper mechs or pop bumpers.

For example, here is a CAD drawing of a Williams flipper mechanism. The blue shows the under-playfield section, which is significantly larger than the area used by the flipper itself, which is the only visible part from the player's perspective.

[[Image:flipper-drawing.png]]

== Design Software ==

Once the style and theme of a game has been chosen, it is time to begin the actual design process of the playfield. This is the best place to start as all other parts of the overall design of the machine are based on it.

=== Virtual Pinball ===

Some designers come from the virtual pinball world, having created virtual pinball machines and are now considering making it a physical reality. The two best examples are [http://sourceforge.net/projects/vpinball/ Visual Pinball] and [http://www.futurepinball.com/ Future Pinball].

[[Image:visual-pinball.png]]

If you are using the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/index.php/products/p-roc P-ROC] controller, users have made it possible to use a combination of Visual Pinball and [http://sourceforge.net/projects/pinmame/ PinMAME] integrated with the pyprocgame module to allow virtual development of a game. Details are available in the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?board=9.0 P-ROC Forums].

However, transitioning a design from Visual Pinball to a format understood by CAD programs can be problematic and time-consuming. Additionally, the software only works on Windows machines and does not work well under emulation on Apple machines.

=== CAD ===

CAD stands for '''Computer Aided Design''' and has been the professional method of producing playfield designs since the 1980s.

[[Image:pinball-CAD.png]]

Previously only available to professionals due to the high cost of the software, a number of '''free''' alternatives are now available to the hobbyist.

* [http://www.3ds.com/products/draftsight/overview/ DraftSight]: DraftSight is a basic 2D drafting package. It has all the drafting tools you'll need for generating professional looking plans: lines and polylines, dimensions and text, and full layering capabilities. Uses the .DWG format as its file type, so the files are cross-compatible with AutoCAD. Available for both Mac and PC.
* [http://www.sketchup.com/ SketchUp]: Technically a 3D program, it can be used for 2D playfield design as well as for designing mechanisms. Available for both Mac and PC.
* [http://www.123dapp.com/ Autodesk123d]: This is also now available as a free download

* [http://www.solidworks.com/ Solidworks]: While the commercial version can cost several thousand dollars, a student edition is available for purchase for a mere $99. Solidworks has quickly become the popular goto 3d software both for it's wide acceptance and intuitive interface. It also has the ability to create assemblies with hinges, making the design of mechanisms much easier since they can be actuated virtually. It also has a light DFMEA (Design Failure Mode and Effect Analysis) to verify strength of components by applying forces to parts. This can be performed by applying specifications of material (Nylon, urethane, polypropylene) to the model.

=== Vector ===

Drawing with Vectors involves manipulating splines and curves instead of bits to create drawings, which allows infinite resizing and editing. For those who find the interface and options of a dedicated CAD program daunting, using a Vector drawing program is a viable option.

* [http://www.adobe.com/ca/products/illustrator.html Adobe Illustrator]: The undisputed king of vector tools. Available for subscription around $20/month. Available for both Mac and PC.
* [http://www.coreldraw.com/ca/product/subscription/ CorelDRAW]: An older package popular with sign printers. PC only.
* [https://inkscape.org/ Inkscape]: The best free alternative. Works on Mac, PC and Linux.

Playfield Sizes

2015-01-13T23:45:24Z

BloodyCactus: Created page with "===Playfield Sizes=== Playfield sizes by various manufacturers; {|class="wikitable" style="border-width: 5px;" cellpadding="10" !Company !Type !Style !Inches |- |Alvin G |SS..."

===Playfield Sizes===
Playfield sizes by various manufacturers;

{|class="wikitable" style="border-width: 5px;" cellpadding="10"
!Company
!Type
!Style
!Inches
|-
|Alvin G
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Alvin G
|SS
|Mystery Castle
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Atari
|SS
|Widebody
|27.00" x 45.00"
|-
|Bally
|EM
|Standard
|20.25" x 41.00"
|-
|Bally
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Bally
|SS
|Widebody
|26.75" x 40.50"
|-
|Capcom
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Data East
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Data East
|SS
|Widebody
|25.00" x 51.75"
|-
|Game Plan
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|EM
|Standard
|20.25" x 41.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 1
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Widebody
|23.75" x 46.50"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Circus (Extra Wide)
|26.75" x 46.50"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 3
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Stern Electronics
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Stern Electronics
|SS
|Widebody
|23.875" x 45.00"
|-
|Stern Pinball
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 45.00"
|-
|Williams
|System 1-11
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Williams
|System 1-11
|Widebody
|27.00" x 42.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC
|Safecracker
|16.50" x 41.50"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (through 1987)
|Standard
|20.50" x 42.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (1987 on)
|Standard
|20.50" x 46.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC
|Superpin (Widebody)
|23.25" x 46.00"
|-
|WMS
|Pinball 2000
|Standard
|20.50" x 43.00"
|-
|Zaccaria
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|}

Skyrim

2015-01-12T22:38:57Z

BloodyCactus: Created page with "=== Skyrim === {|class="wikitable" !Name !Title |- |Stu George |Project owner, Programmer and Designer |} ==== Game Summary ==== An Elder Scrolls V : Skyrim themed pinball u..."

=== Skyrim ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Name
!Title
|-
|Stu George
|Project owner, Programmer and Designer
|}

==== Game Summary ====
An Elder Scrolls V : Skyrim themed pinball using a custom built boardset.

Custom board set is open source called 'System Shock', initial design is for

* 32 solenoids / flashers
* 128 direct input switches
* 64 RGB inserts
* LCD + Stereo sound with Sub (graphics output utilised via RaspberryPI).

==== External Links ====
[http://mega-tokyo.com/blog/index.php/site/category/skyrim HomePage]

[https://github.com/stu/system_shock System Shock control system]

==== Finished Photos ====

==== Construction Photos ====

Custom Games

2015-01-12T22:34:25Z

BloodyCactus: Convert 1 column table to using a list

Information about building your own pinball machine wouldn't be complete without some examples of projects created by home hobbyists.

<font size="4">

* [[Bioshock]]
* [[Blue October]]
* [[Buffy Vampire Slayer]]
* [[Coconut Island Pinball]]
* [[DeadPin]]
* [[Evil Dead]]
* [[Futurama]]
* [[Ghostbusters]]
* [[Kugler Family]]
* [[Rush]]
* [[Skyrim]]
* [[Spaceballs]]
* [[Three Stooges]]
* [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-cruise-new-pinball2000-kit Haunted Cruise]
* [http://www.linscustompins.com/?page_id=28 Tail of the Dragon]

</font>

Coconut Island Pinball

2015-01-09T03:21:26Z

BloodyCactus: Created page with "=== Coconut Island Pinball === {|class="wikitable" !Name !Title |- |Christian Verryckt |Owner |} ==== Game Summary ==== Bioshock themed pinball ==== External Link ==== [ht..."

=== Coconut Island Pinball ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Name
!Title
|-
|Christian Verryckt
|Owner
|}

==== Game Summary ====
Bioshock themed pinball

==== External Link ====

[http://www.users.on.net/~spaners/Coconut%20Island/ HomePage]

==== External References ====
[http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/coconutisland/ PinballNews]

==== Finished Photos ====

==== Construction Photos ====

Bioshock

2015-01-09T03:18:38Z

BloodyCactus: Needs filling out

=== Bioshock ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Name
!Title
|-
|rasmadrak
|Project owner, Programmer and Designer
|}

==== Game Summary ====
Bioshock themed pinball

==== External Link ====

[http://poormanspinball.blogspot.com/ HomePage]

==== Finished Photos ====

==== Construction Photos ====

Custom Games

2015-01-09T02:57:53Z

BloodyCactus: started list of some custom games to fill pages out with

===Custom Games===

Here is a list of custom made pinball machines.

{|class="wikitable"
!Name
!System
|-
|[[Bioshock]]
|Custom
|-
|[[Coconut Island Pinball]]
|Custom
|-
|[[DeadPin]]
|P-ROC
|}

DeadPin

2015-01-09T02:54:44Z

BloodyCactus: Created page with "=== Deadpin === {|class="wikitable" !Name !Title |- |Matthew Bonnema |Project owner, Programmer and Designer |- |Josh Kugler |Programmer |- |Jeff Steeve |Art and Creative Des..."

=== Deadpin ===

{|class="wikitable"
!Name
!Title
|-
|Matthew Bonnema
|Project owner, Programmer and Designer
|-
|Josh Kugler
|Programmer
|-
|Jeff Steeve
|Art and Creative Design
|-
|Mike Jupp
|Art and Creative Design
|-
|Back Alley Creations
|Powder coating
|}

==== Game Summary ====

* Uses the [[Construction#Off-the-Shelf_Boards|P-ROC]] Controller
* Standard size machine
* All LED lighting with RGB features
* 3 ramps
* Total of 15 shots:
** 2 small loops and one orbit
** 3 spinners
** 4 pop bumpers
** 1 kickout hole
** 3 VUKs
** 1 skillshot
* Plunger and Autolaunch
* 2 flippers
* 2 slingshots
* Upper playfield that has three lanes
* All rails are polished aluminum
* All ramps are powder coated and completely custom made

Spent a bit of time figuring out how to fit optos instead of machanical switches in the upper playfield while still keeping the wiring completely hidden.

Made without the use of CNC or other advanced tools.

==== External Link ====

[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?board=30.0 Deadpin at Pinballcontrollers.com]

==== Finished Photos ====

[[Image:deadpin-1.png|800px]]

[[Image:deadpin-2.png|800px]]

[[Image:deadpin-3.png|800px]]

==== Construction Photos ====

[[Image:deadpin-4.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:deadpin-5.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:deadpin-6.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:deadpin-7.jpg|800px]]

Custom Games

2015-01-09T02:54:38Z

BloodyCactus: Replaced content with "===Custom Games=== Here is a list of custom made pinball machines. {|class="wikitable" !Name !System |- |DeadPin |P-ROC |}"

===Custom Games===

Here is a list of custom made pinball machines.

{|class="wikitable"
!Name
!System
|-
|[[DeadPin]]
|P-ROC
|}

Talk:Custom Games

2015-01-08T21:54:51Z

BloodyCactus: Created page with "Instead of one giant page of custom games can this page be a list that points to a dedicated page for each game? -- ~~~~"

Instead of one giant page of custom games can this page be a list that points to a dedicated page for each game?
-- [[User:BloodyCactus|BloodyCactus]] ([[User talk:BloodyCactus|talk]]) 16:54, 8 January 2015 (EST)

Design

2015-01-07T22:32:25Z

BloodyCactus: Added Alvin G, Current STERN, SEGA

Before anything else, you need to have a design you want to build.

== Pinball Basics ==

Users of this site are assumed to have a basic understanding of what a pinball machine is and of the basic operation and maintenance of them, but for the purposes of designing one, a pinball machine generally consists of at least a minimum of a flat surface (generally plywood) for a steel ball to roll on, passive devicesthat interact with the ball such as switches or rubbers, machine-controlled devices that interact with the ball such as pop bumpers or kickers, and user-controlled devices to direct the ball, such as flippers.

Beyond that, the sky is the limit in terms of ideas and creativity. There are no rules that say you must use the "Two Flippers with In-lanes" standard that has been the convention since the 1960's. As a starting point, there are some standard layouts you can work from.

=== Layouts ===

If you need some inspiration, the modern machine layouts fall into two categories: '''Flow''' and '''Stop-and-Go'''.

==== Flow ====

For a game to be described as a '''Flow''' machine, the amount of time the ball is fully stopped without player interaction is kept at a bare minimum. This means outer loops that bring the ball back to the flippers quickly, allowing for looping, continuous shots.

An example of this type of game would be ''Attack From Mars''', 1995 machine produced by WMS:

[[Image:afm-playfield.png]]

The game uses a '''Fan''' layout where all shots are direct lines from the flippers that mostly loop back to the flippers, allowing for quick and continuous ball action.

==== Stop and Go ====

For '''Stop and Go''' games, flipper shots can loop back to the flippers but many of the shots will involve scoops, ball traps and other devices that interrupt the flow of the ball, or cause delayed re-directions based on game rules.

An example of this type of game would be ''Twilight Zone'', a 1993 machine also produced by WMS:

[[Image:tz-playfield.png]]

In this game, the majority of shots result in a ball stop or re-direction to a path not directly in line with the flippers.

It is up to the designer which style of pinball play they prefer when designing your game, and generally every designer has their own styles that are recognizable to regular players.

=== Themes ===

All pinball machines have a theme to help differentiate one machine from other machines or to attract players. Whether it is an original theme or based on an existing property, the theme you choose should help to inform the design of the game itself in some manner.

For a game to be used exclusively in a home, as most custom games will be, makers are free to choose whatever theme they find most appealing. If the game is intended for possible production for others, using an original theme is suggested to avoid any copyright or licensing issues.

=== Limitations ===

The important thing to remember when creating a pinball machine is that there are a number of key limitations that have to be understood and incorporated into a design to allow it to be physically produced.

==== Gravity ====

Gravity only goes down. That means that a ball will only roll downhill unless there is a powered method of moving it otherwise. A designer has to be aware of all the possible ball traps where a ball might be prevented from rolling downwards - an example might be a ramp that drops a ball behind a post, or a ball guide that is not at a steep enough angle to allow the ball to roll without nudging the machine.

An example of a ball hangup, this ball is prevented from rolling by the decorative plastic covering above a hole where it ended up after the ball became airborne:

[[Image:ball-hangup.png]]

These sort of hangups usually show up in the whitewood stage but can often be predicted and avoided at the design stage.

==== Power ====

In the US and Canada, a single wall plug is restricted to 15-20A of available power. This should be considered the maximum available power to a game. Although at first glance it seems absurd that a design might exceed this amount, having multiple high current devices like coils, flash lamps, high power subwoofers and other power-hungry devices can eat up that power quickly. A design should take that into consideration.

==== Space ====

A game usually has to fit into a room, or fit through a door, so space is an important consideration. For example, here is a list of playfield sizes used by the manufacturers over the years, which is useful if re-purposing an existing cabinet for a custom game:

{|class="wikitable" style="border-width: 5px;" cellpadding="10"
!Manufacturer
!Era
!Type
!Size
|-
|Alvin G.
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Atari
|SS
|Widebody
|27.00" x 45.00"
|-
|Bally
|EM
|Standard
|20.25" x 41.00"
|-
|Bally
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Bally
|SS
|Widebody
|26.75" x 40.50"
|-
|Capcom
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Data East
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Data East
|SS
|Widebody
|25.00" x 51.75"
|-
|Gottlieb
|EM
|Standard
|20.25" x 41.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 1
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Standard
|23.75" x 46.50"
|-
|Gottlieb
|System 80
|Widebody
|26.75" x 46.50"
|-
|SEGA
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 46.00"
|-
|Stern
|SS
|Widebody
|23.875" x 45.00"
|-
|Stern
|SS (1999 on)
|Standard
|22.25" x 45.00"
|-
|Williams
|System 1-11
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|-
|Williams
|System 1-11
|Widebody
|27.00" x 42.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (through 1987)
|Standard
|20.50" x 42.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (1987 on)
|Standard
|20.50" x 46.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC (1987 on)
|Superpin
|23.25" x 46.00"
|-
|WMS
|WPC
|Safecracker
|16.50" x 41.50"
|-
|WMS
|Pinball 2000
|Standard
|20.50" x 43.00"
|-
|Zaccaria
|SS
|Standard
|20.25" x 42.00"
|}

==== Standard vs Widebody ====

A rule of thumb is that the larger the playfield, the slower the game plays as the ball has further to travel between devices. As such, standard sized games will subjectively appear to play faster than widebody games, while a widebody game allows more room for devices and other ball interaction mechanisms.

==== Fitment ====

Ultimately, all the devices need to sit together on the playfield, both above and below, so a design must take that into consideration as well, especially when using existing standard mechanisms from current manufacturers such as flipper mechs or pop bumpers.

For example, here is a CAD drawing of a Williams flipper mechanism. The blue shows the under-playfield section, which is significantly larger than the area used by the flipper itself, which is the only visible part from the player's perspective.

[[Image:flipper-drawing.png]]

== Design Software ==

Once the style and theme of a game has been chosen, it is time to begin the actual design process of the playfield. This is the best place to start as all other parts of the overall design of the machine are based on it.

=== Virtual Pinball ===

Some designers come from the virtual pinball world, having created virtual pinball machines and are now considering making it a physical reality. The two best examples are [http://sourceforge.net/projects/vpinball/ Visual Pinball] and [http://www.futurepinball.com/ Future Pinball].

[[Image:visual-pinball.png]]

If you are using the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/index.php/products/p-roc P-ROC] controller, users have made it possible to use a combination of Visual Pinball and [http://sourceforge.net/projects/pinmame/ PinMAME] integrated with the pyprocgame module to allow virtual development of a game. Details are available in the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?board=9.0 P-ROC Forums].

However, transitioning a design from Visual Pinball to a format understood by CAD programs can be problematic and time-consuming. Additionally, the software only works on Windows machines and does not work well under emulation on Apple machines.

=== CAD ===

CAD stands for '''Computer Aided Design''' and has been the professional method of producing playfield designs since the 1980s.

[[Image:pinball-CAD.png]]

Previously only available to professionals due to the high cost of the software, a number of '''free''' alternatives are now available to the hobbyist.

* [http://www.3ds.com/products/draftsight/overview/ DraftSight]: DraftSight is a basic 2D drafting package. It has all the drafting tools you'll need for generating professional looking plans: lines and polylines, dimensions and text, and full layering capabilities. Uses the .DWG format as its file type, so the files are cross-compatible with AutoCAD. Available for both Mac and PC.
* [http://www.sketchup.com/ SketchUp]: Technically a 3D program, it can be used for 2D playfield design as well as for designing mechanisms. Available for both Mac and PC.

=== Vector ===

Drawing with Vectors involves manipulating splines and curves instead of bits to create drawings, which allows infinite resizing and editing. For those who find the interface and options of a dedicated CAD program daunting, using a Vector drawing program is a viable option.

* [http://www.adobe.com/ca/products/illustrator.html Adobe Illustrator]: The undisputed king of vector tools. Available for subscription around $20/month. Available for both Mac and PC.
* [http://www.coreldraw.com/ca/product/subscription/ CorelDRAW]: An older package popular with sign printers. PC only.
* [https://inkscape.org/ Inkscape]: The best free alternative. Works on Mac, PC and Linux.